John E Davies

I hang a 13 gallon white drawstring bag from a Command Hook in the bathroom, it is under the shower head high enough for the empty bag to just brush the floor. As it fills the weight shifts to the floor, not the hook. Neither of us uses the sink or the dinky mirror in there, so that corner location is always out of the way. The bag gets tossed every two or three days. Obviously it comes out if someone takes a shower.... 😉 John Davies Spokane WA

A warning about post type disconnects. Check the amp rating. DavidS’ is rated at 125 amps continuous for use on the Negative terminal only. He has it connected to the small ground wire coming out of the hull, so that is fine. Do NOT connect it to the huge 4/0 inverter ground cable, if you have one. The inverter draws that much or more and can quickly fry this device. Also make sure the cable is fully supported by clamps or heavy nylon ties so it can’t torque the attach bolts loose. There is a lot of weight and leverage involved, especially on bumpy roads. If you have an inverter and want to disconnect all the possible electrical draws you need a high amp marine type Positive disconnect rotary switch rated at 300+ amps. Blue Seas makes excellent ones, some are even key lockable. This should be located inside the hull as close to the battery as practical and will require cable fabrication. Be safe, research well, and do not ever install a low quality part. Oliver uses some very high quality electrical components, in the main circuits, bravo for them. The other stuff like the POS fuse panel could sure use an improvement.... John Davies Spokane WA

One really helpful thing for members who are starting a new thread is to give it a very descriptive title in say eight or ten words. Simply calling it “Pics” Or “My mods” is bad. It doesn’t contain any information. That way when it is saved or searched for it actually means something. This bugs the heck out of me when I am browsing local Craigslist classifieds and the title is completely flaky, like “Utility trailer for sale” in a Trailer For Sale forum. John Davies Spokane WA

Well, the map is really for you to feel good about. There are no "rules" so color yours in however you like. I have passed through about 40% of the lower 48 with "Mouse" but I don't feel a need to post a map. Do whatever strikes your fancy. I prefer to collect pretty park stickers from places we especially enjoyed - the kind they sell in visitor center gift shops - and the best ones go onto the pantry door. Like this: John Davies Spokane WA

Unfortunately, some regular silicone (RTV) sealants do not bond to stainless steel very well. A more sophisticated marine sealant like one of the 3M products would probably provide a longer lasting seal. I have had a couple of heartbreaking experiences with this issue and am very leery of sealers for stainless.... John Davies Spokane WA

Typically ANY tightly closed structure that suddenly is opened to the outside by drilling mounting holes in it also needs weep holes drilled in the bottom. I suggest one at each end rather than one in the middle. That way the water will drain even if the trsiler is off level. They can be very small. I don’t think the installers seal those ubolts or even put anti-seize compound on the threads. I wonder why the moisture did not just seep out around the lower washers? There are a number of places on an Ollie that may catch water and they all should have small drain holes added. John Davies Spokane WA

https://www.amazon.com/Braoses-Collapsible-Foldable-Bathroom-Portable/dp/B081R81RXH John Davies Spokane WA

I installed my shunt directly across the “gap” from the inverter, and used a short length of 4/0 cable..... I just cut the big negative cable going to the battery by that amount and crimped and soldered two new terminals. The cut-off scrap became a short jumper cable. I could have a used smaller size but this worked fine. The big cables Oliver uses are way, way overkill. I would have chosen 2/0 if I had bothered to go buy a new piece. 4/0 terminals are harder to find locally, more expensive and harder to crimp and solder. I don’t see anything positive about using such massive wire in this particular situation. 2/0 welding cable and fittings are universal. John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks for the very kind words. I do greatly appreciate them. Almost all of the mods that I have posted here at Ollie World can be found by clicking the link below my signature, which appears in every post. Specifically: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2513-how-to-rear-mud-flaps-for-the-ollie/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2505-how-to-subframe-gravel-guard/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2504-how-to-stone-stomper-gravel-guard/ if you do only one of these, I strongly suggest the rear Ollie mudflaps. That combined with truck flaps such as a Rock Tamer, will really help to control debris damage. I try very hard to make the thread title fully descriptive since the forum Search engine is not always effective, tho it is much improved from when I joined five years ago. And welcome to the forum, I hope you will actively participate. If you click your user name it will open your home page, and then again click your name at the top right of that page. The drop down menu lets you select Profile, to add your personal info, and also Account Settings. On that page you can go to Signature to add any stuff that you want to appear after each of your posts. Many members like to post their tow vehicle and Ollie description, and perhaps a link or travel map. John Davies Spokane WA

That is a lot of cash to risk when out camping, plus you are relying on your cheap RV furnace to not run out of propane (which I suppose it consumes at a prodigious rate) or not suffer a board or component failure. You also will have basically zero solar input for recharging. How do you plan to keep the electrical system topped up? Do you have a big generator suitable for the Arctic? I see this as an extreme challenge for cold weather Ollie camping and I hope you are successful. Personally I have never experienced temps below -20F so I really can’t even begin to understand the dynamics. I just know that I wouldn’t want to be there.... 😳 John Davies Spokane WA

That is a fine figure to use when initially choosing a hitch, but in the real world the entire rig should be pretty much level , or perhaps a little high at the TV, with a typical “traveling load” of fluids and gear. For example, I always try to tow with full fresh and empty grey tanks. Also, that number is for a standard sized ball, if you use a bigger ball and coupler, obviously the parts at the hitch will be higher. So run what looks good to you..... John Davies Spokane WA

The big challenge is that recharging is not good when the batteries are severely chilled. I would get low temperature lithiums and relocate them to inside the cabin where they will stay a whole lot warmer. I am not recommending these but the info is useful. https://relionbattery.com/blog/lithium-battery-cold-weather Even if you leave them in the factory location it would be simple enough to fully insulate a smaller sized battery bank since ventilation is not needed like a conventional or SLA battery. You could cut air vents to the interior, install a computer fan and pretty much seal off the door. And if you do decide to keep removing them they would be much less of a weight. John Davies Spokane WA

Your trailer looks perfect, but your 200 looks slightly butt low. There is not anything you can do with your hitch to fix that, but a set of Firestone inside-the-springs rear airbags inflated enough to bring it level, (10-12 psi) help significantly in terms of stability. Here is “Mouse”, it is dead level but the pic shows a little camera lens distortion. This is with 33” tires on the 200. Checking an Ollie to see if it is level can be tricky, the frame structure in back kind of droops and it is deceptive. Use the front part of the frame and the belt line as a visual guide. Plus, if you haven’t already done so, switch out the squooshy OEM style tires to firmer LT tires. The ride will suffer a little, but towing is MUCH more secure, and you will be much less at risk of a flat on rough roads. This hasn’t been updated for a while, but..... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2059-land-cruiser-200-towing-thread/ How do you like your Cruiser? A couple of helpful suggestions..... Your safety chains are too long and should be shortened significantly, so that you have minimal loops hanging down, and they should crisscross under the ball, to act as a safety catch if the attachment should fail. You can droop a bungee cord over the tongue and hook onto the chains to help hold them up. Also, your trailer harness is vulnerable. The 200 has a wierd location for the socket, as you no doubt know, and this loop is prime for catching on a road hazard and ripping clean off the trailer. Ouch. I run mine on top, secured with a bungee to eliminate slack under the bumper, plus I leave a horizontal loop so that the cable doesn’t stretch tight in a hard jackknife turn. This also takes most of the strain off the fragile little plastic hook that keeps the plug in the socket. Welcome, and I hope you enjoy both your Land Cruiser and your new Ollie. John Davies Spokane WA

The Swift Cub is too light (6000 pound rating) for an LE2, but in looking at the Equalizer brackets, I think those could possibly be attached to the outer Oliver frame members, depending on how long the spring arms are. It would require removal of a portion of the fiberglass cover on each side. I have considered cutting off the entire section that covers the frame, leaving only the actual “doghouse”. I would rather look at that pretty frame than the cover.... for the same reason I removed the spare tire cover the day I got home from delivery. I prefer to see more of the trailers “bones”. Please keep us updated on this, I am sure other owners are interested. John Davies Spokane WA

The fridge switch turns on a small cooling fan (above the upper coils, added by Oliver) to help circulation through the coils. You should consider turning it on if it is stinky hot outside and/ or no breeze. Later fridges have a pre-installed fan, but it is buried deep between the two sets of coils and it has a temp switch that turns it on automatically. I unplugged power to my fan because it was squealing late into the night and I could not switch it off. I haven’t noticed any cooling issues. John Davies Spokane WA

An IFS system done right is highly capable, the key is the disconnecting swaybar. A solid bar keeps the dropped wheel hanging in the air. The Land Cruiser 200 and some body on frame Toyota/ Lexus models with KDSS are highly competent. It is currently standard equipment on the 200 and a highly valuable (but rare) option on the others. I think Ford probably understands this and did a proper engineering job on the Bronco’s auto-disconnect front bar. I would be interested to see a ramp test. https://www.autoblog.com/2020/06/25/toyota-suv-suspension-flex-test-comparison/ OTH I really dislike most of the Bronco design so I think I would pass on this trucklet. Like the FJ Cruiser, there is really very little that appeals to me. But they should sell like hotcakes for a few years until the market is saturated. After that, who knows? Remember the PT Cruiser, HHR, new T-Bird? They faded out pretty fast after the initial buying frenzy.... i think any “retro” design is a really big gamble for any company. Jeep finally released their highly anticipated Gladiator pickup and pretty much botched it. Not counting dealer discounts their average price is $60k! https://www.motorbiscuit.com/the-jeep-gladiators-sales-numbers-are-failing-miserably/ The Bronco starts at under $30k ....Ka- ching! Money in the register for Ford. .John Davies Spokane WA

That is interesting, I messaged him about this and never heard back. I would like to try the McHitch but not without the WD function. My Land Cruiser is simply too bouncy without it, even with rear airbags. OTH it probably weighs twice as much as the Andersen, which is less than 60 pounds. Another plus for the Andersen is how the chain brackets clamp onto the frame members. It is very solid and at the same time (almost) non-destructive. A typical steel WD chain hanger would absolutely wreck this frame if attached in the usual manner, which is simply hung over the top and the set bolt is tightened down. I never had any luck with those, on two trailers they always slipped. I ended up having them fully welded which completely fixed the problem, but that is simply not possible with an aluminum frame. John Davies Spokane WA

The early versions of the Andersen had some issues, with excessive wear on the friction cone causing really nasty squealing and groaning when they got wet. Also, because of the coupler used (Bulldog forged), there is a tendency for excessive wear on the back of the ball because of the heavy forward thrust of the tension chains. I upgraded from the 2” size, which is rated for 7000 lbs and is marginal IMHO, to the 2 5/16” version which has a huge safety margin. This latest model has an effective moisture/ dust seal to protect the cone and it has been trouble free and effective. Ball wear is very minimal. I think the bigger ball should be standard equipment, but so far Oliver has resisted, but they will do the upgrade at delivery if you ask, for a price. Some buyers bring the bigger hitch and coupler and they simply swap the latter. I much prefer towing the LE2 with a HD truck and a plain dead weight hitch, but for my Land Cruiser the Andersen works fine when adjusted correctly. It is highly effective at reducing jounce on undulating highways but a little less effective at actual weight distribution. The sway feature is a plus but it is not at all needed with an Ollie. This might be of interest ..... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3483-how-to-upgrade-the-bulldog-coupler-and-andersen-hitch-to-2-516quot/ Welcome to the forum. John Davies Spokane WA

This is a relatively new type of extinguisher, it is common in Europe but since it is not approved, it cannot be the primary extinguisher here, in terms of Oliver supplying one at delivery. As a supplement for the dinky little dry chemical one, it is a great choice. Jay Leno did a story on it, the video is at the following link. https://elementfire.com There are two sizes, the smallest (Size 50, $80, at the top) is perfect for a vehicle or garage., The big one is more for a shop or business. Not my pic: It is a good fit for a glovebox - not my pic: The unit ships with a simple C shaped plastic mount with two holes in it. I wanted something more robust so I got their optional Quick Fist. I did not want to drill holes in the trailer for this device so I made a simple aluminum plate and attached it with 1/8" pop rivets and washers. I counterbored the holes in back so the rivet tails would be below the level of the back surface, and sanded them flush: I added the 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tape: And mounted it to the cabin wall next to my Garmin inReach charger. I chose this spot for several reasons. Since the primary extinguisher is near the entry, it is going to be blocked by a galley/ range top fire for anybody sitting or lying in back. This location puts it in easy reach. Plus it is VERY visible up high and is near the emergency exit, which might be useful in the event you had to bail out the back.... The rubber flap is quite easy to open, but the mount appears undersized. It is really hard to reattach the strap. I suspect that a larger size might not be available. Anyway, once, mounted it is not a worry. I have a second unit that I bought for my TV. It is riding in the glovebox and I am trying to figure out a good (visible) location that won't be in the way. They do offer seat rail mounts for various vehicles. EDIT: here is a technical discussion describing the chemistry involved. Basically it emits a potassium jet that grabs onto the oxygen around the fire, causing it to snuff out. .... https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/3001/3080/files/ElementOperationDescription.pdf?9543567154874779486 John Davies Spokane WA

I tried forever and could not snake a wire down around the pantry. I installed my monitor just below the pantry counter, at the back corner. It works fine, access to the threaded ring is simple if you have average sized arms, and it is easy to read by leaning over. I seldom use the display but like it to be visible, just in case my app screws up, which it has a couple of times. I mounted the shunt below the rear bed, across from the inverter, and a 1 meter Victron cable just reaches it. I didn’t want an extra 47 feet bundled ip there. I thought about starting an installation thread but haven't got around to it yet.... John Davies Spokane WA

Cool, where did you find it? Does the drawer close completely? John Davies Spokane WA

duplicate, sorry.

Yes. Probably. Maybe. If it has the Tow Package it might do it. IMHO. Consider flying to Nashville, and then rent a full sized pickup for the drive home from ... https://www.enterprisetrucks.com/truckrental/en_US/vehicles.html Read this and then get back to us with your trucklet’s specs.... Towing Capacity of a 2013 Toyota Tacoma 4.0 Double Cab 4x4 with Factory Tow Package I have towed a 6000 pound LE2 all over the place with much stouter vehicles for four years and would never consider using any midsized vehicle for what you propose. Especially with a V6 with just 266 ft lbs of torque. It isn’t safe and those loooooong steep grades will beat the heck out of your truck. Maybe if you tow carefully with dry tanks and the absolute minimum of gear, which won’t be pleasant. Please reconsider. John Davies Spokane WA

It should not occur. I don’t think it is a big deal if it does, but I would definitely be concerned and try to fix it. I have enough trouble sleeping with odd outside noises, I don’t need more generated at random inside the cabin.... John Davies Spokane WA

I am sure the Taco will tow fine but you will be short on cargo volume and payload, since the LE1 has so much less interior volume than the bigger trailer. If you don’t travel with a bunch of extra weight (people and all their “stuff”, big dogs, bikes, etc) you will be OK, but I bet that pretty quickly you will be shopping for a larger tow vehicle. Especially if you plan to tow out West (high, hot, steep and windy conditions). You can trade it in on a five or ten year old Land Cruiser 200 or a more recent 5.7 liter Tundra - either would make a fantastic TV for the small trailer. They do OK with the bigger one, but would really shine with 1500 pounds less weight in back. Love them Toyota trucks! Welcome to the forum. John Davies Spokane WA