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John E Davies

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Everything posted by John E Davies

  1. Wow, that is so very nifty..... Thanks for posting. Unfortunately it requires a complete kit for “older” toilets that is not available yet. “Our shifter handle will NOT fit onto the agitator of an older base that was originally ordered with the standard or old spider handle. You will have to purchase the re-fit kit to switch agitators which will be available shortly. ” I emailed them asking about when we could buy one, and the price. It think this would be great for an Ollie with one caveat - you can’t reverse the rotation direction. I sometimes “stir” backwards to loosen things up. I still might get one. I would like to be able to stir without bending over so much, plus this would clear the waste bin way better. But most importantly, when you are sitting there you can pretend you are a race car driver. Vroom vrooooom! EDIT: I received a prompt email from Angela, “The shifter refit kit is available and it $65 and $15.85 shipping.“ John Davies Spokane WA
  2. Most RVs have ugly pipes hanging down in plain view. Every now and then I see a design that leaves me shaking my head in disbelief. Here is a T@b: Imagine a rock or piece of truck tire carcass flying up onto those valves. Imagine dragging the tongue over a curb when climbing a steep driveway. It could dump one or both tanks onto the road or rip the tank clean off. And Nucamp does not provide a place to store the stinky hose - I guess it could go in a bucket in your truck.... Their off-road model is 4” higher but that still is inadequate. Why do buyers put up with this? John Davies Spokane WA
  3. Add a small Walmart flip top trashcan to the front of the toilet (one sized to fit under the TP toll and toilet vent.) Put ALL paper products in the can, none should ever go down the head. This dramatically eases turning - there is nothing like a long string of paper wrapped around the stirring arms to make it hard to rotate. A spritz of vinegar into the can keeps the odors away. The three arms are simple threaded rod, you could easily fabricate longer ones for more leverage. I have increasing loss of hand strength (neuropathy) and do not find the NH to be a problem, so far. Keep in mind that it would be super simple to retrofit a flush toilet - all the main items including black tank, vent and water supply remain in place. Only the flange and big hole would have to be added. You could sell your used NH on Craigslist for $300. John Davies Spokane WA
  4. Take a look at the Super Duty 2500 with the brand new big 7.3 liter gas engine. It is tuned for low to midrange torque, like a turbo diesel. That would be my engine of choice, by a landslide, plus the Tremor Offroad suspension package, if I ever decided to buy a Ford. Which is probably never...... 😀 I just don’t like the interiors. We all love vehicle shopping vicariously, let the other guy foot the bill. In your shoes I might wait a while, see what the new models have to offer. Or buy a tried and true low tech, but utterly reliable Tundra 5.7. Or a Sequoia. Or a certified used three year old Land Cruiser. Check out the newer Rams, they have very nice interiors, the 2500s ride on rear coil springs or optional air suspension and won’t beat you up all day long, like old fashioned leaf springs. Of all the vehicles we have been talking about, the one your wife will fall in love with is the Land Cruiser. John Davies Spokane WA
  5. I just noticed this, the duct in that pic has been stepped on and squashed, I wonder how often that happens. I hope the technician trimmed off that section. I also sure hope that upward loop at top right isn’t in the final installation. John Davies Spokane WA
  6. Found this earlier thread, with lots of great discussion. Why the heck can’t I remember these threads? Getting old..... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2698-acheat-system-contamination-and-replacing-flex-heating-ducts/ From that thread, this pic is just what I was looking for: Note the small white pex water line on top of the fresh tank, indicating this is the latest configuration with the fresh water pickup drawing water through suction instead of through that pesky bottom port the earlier (pre-Hull Number 300 ish?) models have. If we are getting into sawing access holes and replacing ducts, I guess this project should wait until after the camping season has ended. I could do my black tank mod at the same time, it would likely make running a new 1/2” pex water line to the pump area easier with the rear ducts completely out of the way. John Davies Spokane WA
  7. This is most helpful, I did not realize that the ducts split there. I closed off the rear outlet because it gets too warm for my wife when sleeping. Having it open and the middle one closed may be the best compromise. But I plan to inspect the entire system also to see about improving airflow through the front section especially. Is the galley split area accessible by removing the bottom drawers? I have had the drawers out years ago but I can’t recall..... John Davies Spokane WA
  8. http://trailertraveler.net/towing-travel-trailer-toyota-4-runner/ http://trailertraveler.net/4-runner-vs-tundra-travel-trailer-tow-vehicle/ John Davies Spokane WA
  9. Can you elaborate - was the duct twisted, too long, extra bends, not supported? I have a semirigid borescope I plan to send down mine from both the sink area and from the furnace plenum box to see if it is crushed or restricted. I will take pics! I am unsure how it is routed from the galley to the head, does it go straight to the closet and turn, or does it angle across? If somebody could post a factory build picture of the entire ductwork before the inside floor went down, that would be very helpful. Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA
  10. Dean - thanks for the suggestions. I had read that thread by GreyGhost but had entirely forgotten about it. I have planned to inspect under the sink, regardless. Maybe I will find an air leak, but I doubt that is the case, or the sink and vanity would be getting unusually warm. I have looked in there via my round closet inspection port - I can see the plumbing under the faucet but cannot see the far side. It does appear that my installation has room for an inline bilge blower. I am familiar with them since I once owned a power boat. While I am in there I will disconnect and cap off the unneeded fresh water line that goes to the ball valve behind the toilet. I don’t have a flush toilet and that section of the system is very awkward to winterize. This might even get me started on converting the 18 gallon black tank to fresh..... I would also cut and cap the big black vent from that tank. I will look under the sink when the weather cools, it is blistering hot right now. John Davies Spokane WA
  11. In regards to manually closing the awning..,,,, See attached scan of the manual. It can be done, it requires a flat bladed screwdriver to remove an end cap, plus a 3/8” wrench to wind it in - when done it may have up to a 4” gap so it would not be towable. Unless you could somehow keep it in place with a bunch of 1” ratchet straps. Plus it requires (professional) servicing to reset the limit switches after doing this. There is no indication that you can manually open the unit. I wonder, how many buyers consider this sort of situation when checking that option? It would ruin your day and maybe your entire vacation if it failed. If it failed way out in the boonies, it could cost you an expensive tow fee. It would be prudent for an owner to understand how to retract it and have a ladder and the means to secure it in place to tow it home or to a shop. Maybe these super duty nylon ties would work? I have been trying to come up with a use for them ,.... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4359-griplockties-reusable-rubber-lined-super-duty/ Are you situated so that you can reposition the rig 180 degrees so you can use the functioning awning for shade? Good luck on your quest, please keep us updated. John Davies Spokane WA
  12. I have the rear floor register fully closed, the center one half closed and the bath register completely removed (wide open hole). Airflow appears to be adequate in front but the temperature is very low. Both the bath and closet are always cold. I keep the bath door wide open, and the bath ceiling vent open but not running the fan unless somebody is showering. Do you have this problem? Should I keep the bath vent closed? Please elaborate. I am trying to figure out if this is simply a poor design, with the heat source so far back in the cabin, or if my particular hull has a build problem. I am researching alternative heat sources for the front, to just help equalize the temperature. Platinum Cat VENTED heater ..... clunky and large, but efficient and safe, can operate with all windows closed: ..... http://www.ventedcatheater.com/heaters Radiant electric mat ..... could maybe be bonded to the inside closet wall? Minimal watts, maybe 150, not very effective. .... https://www.amazon.com/SEAL-Radiant-Heating-Ceramic-Self-adhesive/dp/B07HMNFFH3/ref=asc_df_B07H279CWJ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242000691778&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2283158861237346692&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027760&hvtargid=pla-620321963479&th=1 Radiant wall panel, 120 volt AC. Interesting technology, no small sized ones. .... https://www.wayfair.com/home-improvement/pdp/heat-storm-radiant-500-watt-electric-wall-mounted-heater-rvj10005.html Hydronic heating. Impractical to retrofit, $$$$$$. .... https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camper-reviews/alde-hydronic-heating-system-test-and-review/ In-duct 12 volt air booster fan. Dangerous, may fool sail switch into thinking there is adequate air moving through the burner, when there is not. OTH a really simple and cheap fix. What have I missed? Can we discuss this? I have to admit I am disappointed in the uneven heating in “Mouse”. If I am in the minority, maybe I should open a service ticket. Thanks John Davies Spokane WA
  13. this is from four years ago, I would have hoped that they would have figured out how to install these correctly by now.... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2202-how-to-fix-and-flip-your-blinds/ John Davies Spokane WA
  14. Different vendors. The other one is Amazon Prime with free shipping. You can create a price watch here, and buy when the price gets in your comfort range, or just use Google to check Wally World, Home Depot and other big box stores. https://camelcamelcamel.com/product/B06XGN8LXK I use that site all the time and it has saved me many hundreds of dollars. It has also caused me to buy stuff I definitely should not have bought, just because the price dropped..... buyer beware! 😀 John Davies Spokane WA
  15. Do not buy a Truma if you want simple servicing! My suggestion is to get the Suburban, and buy a good aftermarket board for it, around $80. Replace the OEM board and keep the used one for a spare. It is tiny and takes up no space, you will most likely never need it. (Wrap it well and label it so a future owner will know what it is twenty years from now.😊) I do NOT know the current status, mine is four years old, you would need to research part numbers and other forums to see if there is a continuous failure history. More reading here, and please start a new thread if you learn anything interesting! https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2036-suburban-hot-water-heater-failed-a-dealer-repair-story-and-lesson/ John Davies Spokane WA
  16. I still want to do this, to turn it into an “Aux Fresh Water” tank, it would not be especially hard to do and the tank is higher than the main fresh tank, so it would gravity drain, through a 1/2” PEX line and ball valve, when that one is empty. It is not very high on my Honey Do List tho.... If you do this, it will mean a future owner will not be able to bolt down a conventional toilet. For me, that reason would not be important enough to stop me from cutting pipes....😀 Some folks with SUVs cannot simply throw three jerry cans or a bladder in the truck bed. A converted black tank would be an excellent solution for those owners. When you have converted yours, please post pics and a shopping list of parts. Being a pioneer/ Beta engineer is hard. John Davies Spokane WA
  17. David, mine is the 7 cup, thanks for seeing my mistake... I will correct the description and title. Model number PTT711W as per the bottom label. I dumped the contents just so I could check for you..... 😀 The Amazon page for the bigger one mentions model number PT111W toward the bottom. The 7 cup Amazon page has no MN listed. See pics. Either the 7 or 11 cup model should both fit in the pantry, they share the same dimensions except the bigger one is about 1.5” thicker. Since you already have the big one, can you please check the fit in the top shelf and report back? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA
  18. OK, that one is news to me, it is the first 50 state CARB legal oversized replacement gas tank I have heard of. I sure hope they will make them for more makes and models. This adds a great big star beside the F150 if you want extended range. Thanks for posting that link. Edit: they do show a big replacement tank for Tundras, but it is not California legal. https://www.transferflow.com/shop/product/0800114225 John Davies Spokane WA
  19. FYI the Titan tank is only for diesel F150 models, it is illegal to change out a factory tank to a larger size or add an auxiliary tank to a gas truck because the emissions system is designed and approved only for the factory tank the truck is delivered with. OTH there are places where you can get an aux gas tank installed, regardless of the legalities. For example the Australian Long Ranger tanks (three different sizes, up to 50 gallons extra) are being put in USA spec Land Cruiser 200s. They add a second Aussie vapor canister for the extra tank, extra gauge and transfer switch/ pump and somehow convince themselves and their customers that is not “emissions tampering”. It is very odd that diesel trucks can have modded tanks, but gas trucks cannot, when you consider how much more fuel a gas truck needs for adequate endurance in the boonies. Carrying jerry cans on the back bumper or roof is way more hazardous than carrying extra fuel safely tucked between the frame rails. I just don’t see any sense in the EPA’s logic. John Davies Spokane WA
  20. That is the moisture cover for the failure prone circuit board (igniter circuit) for the standard Suburban HWH. It failed once already a couple of months after delivery. That is a horrible location for it, right under a pressurized water hose, but at least it is easy to access if it fries again .....l I just never got around to moving it to a more logical location ☹️ John Davies Spokane WA
  21. You may have an airlock in the hose running to the pump. Normally a little air won’t hurt but a lot of air will cause complete loss of suction and pressure. The pump will run flat out and nothing else happens. You need to: Close the valve going to the faucets. Open the valve going back to the tank. That will let the system flow freely, recirculating from tank straight back to tank with no restrictions, and should remove any air in the pump lines in a minute or two. While you are in there, turn off the system and remove your pump strainer/ filter to see if it is plugged with plastic shavings (construction debris). It is just forward of the pump assembly. This is pretty normal at first. One owner found a kink in the suction line to the pump was blocked by those shavings, he had to use a wire object to remove them. Good luck. PS, please add a signature with your hull number, it helps us to understand what systems are installed, since there are evolutionary changes through the years. Also, if you want to easily use those valves, label the direction of flow and where the lines go, like this (Hull 218) - yours might be different. I am a little surprised that they don’t do this at the factory. John Davies Spokane WA
  22. Why is it worth $9? John Davies Spokane WA
  23. We used to buy bottled water but that is a pure disaster (pun intended) in terms of storage and disposal. This pitcher is available for $30 in many places like Home Depot, replacement filters are easy to find, are about $9 each, and are good for 30 gallons. PUR 7 Cup Pitcher at Amazon Standard filters: Pur Replacement Filters We use an apple juice bottle for a storage tank, it normally stays on the galley counter near the cooktop. We refill our personal water bottles from that and when it is empty, we refill the juice bottle with water from the pitcher, and then refill the pitcher from the galley faucet. Since we don’t use the bathroom sink at all, the pitcher goes on that counter top near the faucet - it takes about ten minutes to “strain” all the water by gravity into the lower compartment. It is out of the way there when not needed, except for showers. For towing, the EMPTY pitcher goes into the top front of the pantry, with a full juice bottle behind it, and with dry goods wedged in so it will not shift. The lid is not sealed and you can’t transport the pitcher with water in it! It fits amazingly well, as if it were designed for this space. The reason we use the apple juice bottle is that we will always have at least that much drinking water when we stop for lunch or for the evening, and we don’t need to get the PUR pitcher out and filled until it has a safe place to sit overnight. This has been working great for two seasons now and I highly recommend this method over bottled water or drinking straight out the faucet. If you have access to good water, you can just keep the pitcher stored away and refill the juice bottle as needed. EDIT: Changed capacity and Amazon link, sorry I made a mistake on the initial posting. EDIT: If your used but dried out filter won’t flow water, remove it and soak it in water for 15 minutes. This will rejuvenate it, and this is the method you use for a brand new replacement. If it still won’t flow, install a new one. EDIT 08/02/23 If you want to conserve, fill the pitcher from the faucet while waiting for the water to get hot, instead of letting it go down the drain. John Davies Spokane WA
  24. You and me Pal! They are hugely complicated, take proprietary solid tires and would be 100% unrepairable in any bike shop I have been to.... plus they must weigh at least three times as much as even a very cheap set of alloy rims and steel bead tires. Rotating mass defines the quality of the ride, these must have, uhmmmmm, very good straight line stability. How about steering and acceleration? Pretty horrible I suspect. His “About“ page seems to reflect a very angry man who has seen bad times, and I hope his bike and dreams come true. But you could not pay me to ride one of them. The industrial swivel casters for transport are certainly unique. https://newatlas.com/tuck-bike-folding-wheels/ John Davies Spokane WA
  25. Susan, I asked for “Mouse” to be delivered with no side graphics. I wanted the descriptive labels, just no swooshes. The trailer was delivered completely naked on the sides, so I ordered two sets of the “Oliver Legacy Elite II” stickers straight from the Service Department, no worries, and installed them myself in a straight line. It is not at all hard, but it does take some prep, patience and care. If you don’t have all three of those, get somebody else to install them. I put “Oliver“ at the back on each side, mirror imaged side to side, see pics. I prefer this to the factory positioning. They are visually centered under the rear windows, and the bottom edges align with each other about 6 inches below the belt seam. I suspect that they will be reluctant to install them in a non-standard way, but maybe they could be persuaded to just leave them off, and put them in a galley drawer for you to install later....? John Davies Spokane WA
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