John E Davies

We don’t drink directly from the tanks, I filter that water through a 1 gallon pitcher type water filter. I just want to shock the system as a precaution, I would prefer the tank supply to be reasonably pure for showering and hand washing. Plus I don’t want stuff growing in the dead end lines through lack of use. Since I started this thread, my wife discovered that Office Depot has regular strength household bleach in stock locally, I bought two gallons online and will just drop in to collect them tomorrow. It pays to check non-traditional sources sometimes, for when the big box stores have been “cleaned out”, so to speak. John Davies Spokane WA

I can’t find Chlorox around here, every time I get to a store all the cleaning supplies are gone. I can’t find a seller that has it and will ship it to my home. I was wondering about purification tablets. Almost all of these are for very small quantities for a hiker or for a bugout bag, the dosage is usually 1 tablet per liter. But this one is 1 tablet per 5 liters.. .... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019KZ0GVI/?tag=wfmag-20...... I found a UK product that is for VERY large tanks (1.6 tablets per 100 gallons) but they won’t ship to the USA and they are out of stock anyway.... https://rmsupply.co.uk/tablets/67-oasis-3000-water-purification-tablets-5gm-100-tablets.html Can anybody point me to an affordable product that will treat a 30 gallon tank and associated plumbing? Something with a dosage rate in between the two products I mentioned? I am sure it’s out there, for those folks who don’t normally like liquid bleach. That first one would work but it would take more than 30 tablets for an Ollie water system. My only bottle of bleach is expired and nearly empty, and it doesn’t pass the sniff test;( Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

If you live where they spray salts on the roads, winter camping will damage your metal parts without a doubt. If you can accept that (I can’t), then cold weather camping is practical and certainly way easier than with most RVs of any type. I think the 4 season description is fine, but Oliver should warn owners about this and about the many hazards of towing over ice and packed snow. I am not sure if some RV policies have exclusions about towing in nasty winter conditions.... John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks for pointing that out, it was a Senior Moment, I should have known better. I have corrected that other thread.... Flathead Lake State Park, West Shore John Davies Spokane WA

This is pure magic. Body shops use it for prepping before painting. I use it for all kinds of jobs, mainly prepping the cars and trailer before applying Rejex - removing sap and tar and any traces of wax. You can get it from a local Auto Body supplier for way less, I bought four quarts a couple of years ago for $12 each. One can lasts a long time. 3M Adhesive Remover John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks Trainman, I think either the 8 or the 10 mesh would be perfectly fine, both have about the same airflow, the only difference being the actual hole size. I do wish there was a source for this mesh with a 0.18” to 0.20” wire.... for ease of cutting and bending, mainly. John Davies Spokane WA

I found a source for stainless hardware cloth at Amazon - 2 sq ft of 1/8” mesh with 0.024” (0.6 mm) wire, with 60% flow rate, for $23 and free shipping. https://smile.amazon.com/Woven-Wire-8-Mesh-12-X24-30cm-X60cm-x2-5mm-Beekeeping-Varoa-Varroa-Apiary-Steel-60-Open-Area/dp/B01N7VKM8G/ref=cm_wl_huc_item My wonderful local specialty metals supplier has the same stuff but with heavier 0.028” wire for about the same price. Some suppliers offer it in finer sizes but I do not think they would sell a small quantity.... I think the Amazon cloth is a better choice for an Ollie owner, unless somebody knows of a better source for a finer wire product. John Davies Spokane WA

Trainman, that is beautiful work. Do you have an Amazon link to share for the screen? What is the mesh size and is it stainless? In regards to your water heater screens, I wouldn't hesitate to use a strong adhesive sealant to bond the screen to the inlet side. The outlet side runs much too hot for that. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Keep in mind you can take these covers off, or just loosen the fasteners and remove them if it is stinky hot outside. It takes a flat screwdriver or a quarter and maybe twenty seconds. You could just let the tops hang open a couple of inches, but the risk of driving away and losing them would be much higher than leaving them propped up next to your chocks. If you are moving the fridge will have plenty of airflow. BTW I unplugged the fridge fan on mine (due to squealing) last year and noticed no performance degradation. You do not want to deal with mud dauber nests plugging the burner, like any service item it would require removal of the fridge. There is almost no outside access to most of the major parts like the burner, cooling fins or fan. Here is another big star for a compressor fridge... John Davies Spokane WA

Just a reminder, the park closes when the weather gets really bad, which may be as early as mid-to late September. Visiting after Labor Day (September 7 this year) will in NO way guarantee smaller crowds, especially on a pretty weekend when the locals from Kalispell come up GTS in their expensive play cars and motorcycles. Visiting late just means worse weather and more commercial activities, like a boat tour, that may be shut down for the season. As I mentioned in my other thread, "A reservation at a West Glacier commercial RV park would be prudent, if you cannot get one of the rare reservable spots, until you can locate a free spot inside the Park. Only a few Glacier campgrounds offer them, and in general most are unsuitable for a larger Ollie. As I mentioned before.... St Mary would be the best choice to the east, and the spots are larger there. But you can’t see anything ;( Apgar in the west is big too, but no reservations at all and only trees to look at from your folding chairs. Some CGs are tent only. Some you cannot tow a trailer to... it is a tough place to plan for a visit." https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3627-glacier-national-park-post-season/ Bring a small Walmart tent. During your travels if you find a free site, pitch it, register and and leave it there , go get your Ollie and bring it back. Any other plan will just frustrate the heck out of you! There are a fair number of sites. Finding one that is long enough, free from brush, and easy to maneuver into, is the hard part. You cannot bring your Ollie over GTS, no way. .... Going To The Sun Google maps ... You will have to detour the loooong way around the south perimeter of the Park. Do ideally pick a CG that is not too far away! Two Medicine would be perfect! It is drop dead gorgeous and quite easy to reach from the entrance at East Glacier (near Browning).... John Davies Spokane WA

I don't think you could actually blow up a trailer stabilizer. That clacking noise you hear is the gearbox over-ride clutch operating when the jackscrew bottoms out or tops out inside the tube. It might also protect the gear teeth from operator induced damage. FYI, when changing direction of anything with moving parts, whether it's a stabilizer, a metal lathe, or your car's transmission, always wait for all the parts to stop moving before changing directions. Mechanical mechanisms have momentum, and you can't expect them to survive for very long without letting the parts stop moving first..... In your car, you will eventually wreck the parking pawl by shifting to Park while rolling. Interesting article on what "rocking a stuck car" does inside the transmission; ... https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/how-to-rock-a-stuck-vehicle-without-burning-up-your-transmission/ John Davies Spokane WA

I think that for the average person who does not have a hard core rock crawling trailer, an offroad coupler provides peace of mind for that rare occasion when your stomach knots up and your sphincter does too. Most of the time a decent ball coupler will be transparent and trouble free. OTH Andersen recommends that you disconnect the chains in these situations. if you keep the tongue weigh really low, that won't add any new problems. If your are carrying 700 pounds on the ball, expect your light duty tow vehicle to be unhappy and maybe unsafe if you remove the chain tension. I towed a dinky little utility trailer maybe 30,000 miles over 12 years, I installed an Australian Treg polyblock coupler right way. It performed faultlessly and as a bonus, it looked very trick. I never had any issues backing that were due to the coupler itself. John Davies Spokane WA

Does the unit stay in place or does it tend to wander? Does yours have rubber feet or pads or an anchor in back?? I would be a little concerned about it smashing into the bathroom door during an emergency stop. Thanks for posting the pics. John Davies Spokane WA

I responded to this in a PM to you, but maybe other folks would like to read this and comment. Mine works great without the booster, tho I bought one just in case. It may have to do with the length of your tow vehicle, extra steel panels (like the front wall of a pickup bed and the rear wall of the cab), a steel rear bumper, and perhaps dense cargo stored in back that might block the weak radio signals. My Land Cruiser 200 is fairly short (112 inch wheel base) with plastic rear bumper and perhaps I am on the edge of of losing the signal and just don’t know it. The signals travel straight from low near the ground, so having a booster in your closet up very high would probably be very effective at beaming the radio waves straight at your cockpit. Have you tried extending the antenna on the display? Mine is down all the time. John Davies Spokane WA

Yes this is something that should be done annually, in spring, including ALL the water lines. I use a hand pump to suck treated water from a bucket into the outside ports.The fresh tank is a little hard to completely treat, but if you can tow it around for a while with chlorinated water sloshing, that will be best. If you can't don't sweat it. For your 30 gallon tank you need half a cup of fresh beach. Do not use old stuff, it loses potency. After three hours flush flush flush until it no longer smells like the pool at the YMCA. John Davies Spokane WA

I am bumping this old thread, can anyone contribute any new information? As a recent buyer, within the last year, did you have to sign or agree to any kind of liability release from the Sales Dept before you were given the contact info for a showing? Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

Even with a bunch of extra panels on the roof, and more battery capacity, eventually any battery bank is going to go flat. Before you reach that point you run the generator. Or hook up the trailer and go to where the sun shines more.... gloomy, rainy forest camping is not a good choice. Nor is winter camping, you need long days of direct sun exposure. John Davies Spokane WA

Beaker, I see you changed your avitar image .... you look like a very nice couple, but honestly, your previous Muppet version was a hoot, I will miss it. John Davies Spokane WA

Would you mind starting a brand new thread about your Sequoia? I am particularly interested in any comments on the stability of the independent rear suspension, and the stock tires and rear air suspension capabilities. Have you done any upgrades? I think your truck has 4:30 axles, is that correct? Are you concerned about the relatively low tow rating? I don’t expect fo see a Toyota diesel here, ever, hybrids are in the future, even in the trucks. Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

Here is a comparison pic, you can see the wear on the old ball. And the very obvious size and strength difference. The ball wears very fast initially and then slows down. But the wear never stops entirely. The higher the tongue weight, and thus the higher the chain tension, the faster the wear. John Davies Spokane WA

Ollies are super low maintenance, this is at the far other end of the spectrum. https://spokane.craigslist.org/tro/d/coeur-alene-trailer/7101004815.html How would you like to wash that, and try to get off mold or moss....? Or keep it even vaguely waterproof? John Davies Spokane WA

Lippert says this is “as designed”. I added extra seal strips along the bottom, leaving MUCH smaller drain slots. John Davies Spokane WA

IMHO for a couple, going lots of miles, the larger unit will be more enjoyable. The extra floor and storage space is significant. The pantry is valuable. The small one lets you get back to spots that the larger one has trouble, and I think it is perfect for one person using a lighter tow vehicle. If you plan you to use only established campgrounds, which I believe is a mistake, the length is a non issue. If you want to drag it on rough tracks, get the small one for sure. A big tow vehicle with plenty of covered bed space should be on your shopping list, for all the bulky stuff you will want to bring along like generator, camp chairs and shelter, bikes, tools, etc. You could start with a smaller (appropriate) TV for a year or two, but I bet money that before you head to Alaska you will be thinking hard about a bigger one! There are solid reasons why, by far, most buyers choose the larger unit. I am not sure the percentage, I think it is 95%. The little one is cute as a bug, but it is a little toy-like; the big one just looks right, proportionally speaking. Especially a plain white one behind a white truck. That is the fastest color, as dirt bikers say. IMHO.... of course. PS, if I were single I would probably trade my LE2 for the LE, for its back country capability.... Welcome to the forums. John Davies Spokane WA

The new 7.3l Ford gas engine with a supercharger and about 5psi of boost would be truly enjoyable..... but it will really mess with the fuel economy and you would need Premium fuel. I don’t think you would have to worry about durability. John Davies Spokane WA

This may or may not relate..... https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f6/dometic-furnace-will-not-operate-at-high-altitude-61353.html They reference a high altitude conversion kit .... http://www.upgnet.com/pdffileredirect/035-14461-000-c-0404.pdf This comment is important... "Altitude Considerations Some owners have experienced problems with furnace operations at high altitude, where the furnace works correctly at lower altitudes. Propane suppliers in low altitude areas (less than 1,000 feet above sea level) may mix additives into the propane. While this can provide improved operation at lower altitudes, at higher altitudes (greater than 5,000 feet above sea level), it can lead to furnace failure, including intermittent lockouts and other symptoms. If planning a cold weather trip to a location greater than 5,000 feet above sea level, filling tanks after arrival may provide for more reliable operation of the furnace." Step one IMHO would be use your bbq grill tank, or borrow a tank that was filled locally, and try it. If that works, take your tanks to a local supplier and get them refilled with a normal mix. Then if your system operates, see if Oliver will refund your expense. And ask if they get their new tanks already full, or do they have a big supply tank at the factory that they use. I hate rv propane appliances with great passion. NO WAY should a new owner have to go through this. Good luck, and please keep us posted. John Davies Spokane WA