John E Davies

Here is your plumbing diagram. I don’t see any easy access location to add a fitting at the bottom edge of the grey tank. It is pretty much obscured everywhere by other parts. John Davies Spokane WA

That sounds like a winner for anybody who wants to retain a flush toilet. How often would you have to change the filter element, and what is that cost? Are you planning to do the work yourself? The only tricky part IMHO would be drilling the hole in the grey water tank and installing a PEX fitting for the pump supply line. Have you located a suitable place for that, one that has good access for a drill? The big black waste pipe is blocking it all along that left side of the cabin. I hope you will post pictures. It sounds like an interesting mod. About how much water is used by the toilet per person per day? John Davies Spokane WA

STRONGBACK Elite Black 2.0 Creating a hyperlink to a webpage is super easy. Click the “link” symbol, it looks like a chain link. Then a window will appear: Copy and past the url (address) in the top section. If it is screwy looking, either enter your own text description in the lower box, or copy and paste the official description from the webpage. That way a viewer knows what the link means. When you are happy, click Insert into post.. John Davies Spokane WA

Well, they are the real deal as you will discover, and are very impressive, but IMHO you should not leave them installed long term while camping and towing. You need to keep the orings lightly lubed with silicone grease to keep them working well and remain leak free, that will attract dust…. If you have your hose connected to a campground faucet, don’t be real surprised if the coupler parts disappear 😳 . I have the female couplers on the male ends of all my garden hoses at home and extra Eley male ones, screwed onto spray nozzles and the pressure washer. I keep one extra close to the Ollie and attach it to the fresh tank fill port for a few minutes to top up the tank quickly. But it doesn’t stay there all the time, open to dirt or bugs… I am be pretty sure that is not going to be very satisfactory 🙁. The first stretch of road construction or gravel road is going to make it gross, which can contaminate your trailer water system. You can’t really travel safely with the huge heavy female part connected to the inlet port, for obvious reasons…. Don’t drop your female hose end into the dirt or onto concrete, or drag it over hard surfaces. Their nozzle set is extremely impressive (like their reels, there is nothing close to matching their stuff on the Internet or local stores). I use mine for car washing and rinsing the driveway and house siding, it is a fine piece of equipment. https://www.eleyhosereels.com/products/professional-spray-nozzle-set John Davies Spokane WA

Common sense says you should add a bleach solution to all three of fresh water inlets, because they can breed bacteria just like all the other parts of the system. (You can skip the black flush port….) If you never ever drink the water straight out of the tank, you can maybe get away with not treating those areas. But if one does get contaminated, the next time you use that port, for example the City Water connection, it is going to carry the bad stuff straight into your tanks and water lines. I once spent most of an afternoon sitting in my camp chair at an RV park watching the nearby dump station in operation. I lost count of the number of owners who filled their fresh water tanks straight from the non-potable water hose, which was painted red and attached to a labeled red post. The fresh water hose with its blue post was prominently positioned 100 feet away, in direct line of sight of the driver….. So I guess you need to ask yourself that famous Clint Eastwood line, “Do you feel lucky?” Treat the entire system or not at all, because doing it part way won’t work. Read this: https://www.cdc.gov/ecoli/ecoli-symptoms.html John Davies Spokane WA

Her signature says Nissan Armada, so I guess you are right. Oops. OTH I have carried a generator in my LC200 for four seasons, and a steel NATO jerry gas can for one, neither of them smell at all. John Davies Spokane WA

That little generator will easily fit in the back of your truck bed, along with a GOOD gas can.. (A dual fuel model can be connected to your trailer propane system.) You don’t need to store it outside in the weather and filth. I assume that you have some sort of cover for the bed. Keep it near the back, slide it out into the tailgate to operate it, or just set it on the ground and loop a bike cable lock around the trailer frame. The little 1000 watt suitcase units are great for battery charging but they won’t multi-task at all. Or operate the air conditioning😥 For much easier access to everything in the truck, add a bed slide (loooong drawer with roller bearing slides). John Davies Spokane WA

I will add that Oliver Sales or Service (?) will send you a complementary hull number plaque as shown above for you to apply near your entry door, normally it would be below the switches, but you can use your imagination. My 2017 LE2 Hull 218 did not have one, they sent me one a few years ago. It did not come with adhesive, I used double sided Scotch tape. You can also look at your trailer registration, the VIN is on there, so the last 3 digits should be the hull number. Normally when you submit a Service Department request (Ticket) they ask for that. So did you in fact install new batteries? I was more than a little confused about that post. What kind and how many? John Davies Spokane WA

Well, I missed that entirely - my bad, I did not interpret her description as saying that they have already been replaced. But new batteries should NOT take any time to function normally, they come mostly charged. Margaret, my apologies, and please fill out your Signature with trailer and tow vehicle information. John Davies Spokane WA

I’m very sorry, but that really is not good news, it is very probable that they are ruined and will have to replaced. Do you know what kind and how old they are? Did you have the trailer inspected before you bought it? Is there a maintenance history or service records? If not, it would be very prudent to get a mobile RV service to come and give it a thorough inspection, including the electrical parts and appliances, and brakes and wheel bearings. If the batteries are sealed (AGM) then a load test must be done on each one individually to determine their health. Some campgrounds won’t allow that sort of work (disassembling the axle hubs), so you would need to check with the office. They would probably be OK with fixing the batteries, if it comes down to that. John Davies Spokane WA .

3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, Quart, 08984 If you have a local Automotive Paint supply store, buy it there, I pay about $14 per quart locally. It is voodoo magic for stuff like this, and for road tar on the gelcoat or your TV. Wear gloves and have some ventilation,, it has all sorts of unpleasant solvents. It won’t hurt gelcoat or paint but it does completely strip off the wax. Body shops use it a lot for prepping the paint. John Davies Spokane WA

Abracadrabra! Kazaaaam! Go out and recheck, maybe it is fixed now. John Davies Spokane WA

That is out a lot further than normal. If you want to move it forward, it would be very easy to cut out a section of the black pipe inside the hull and reconnect it with a glued ABS coupling. Access is fine underneath the false floor in the cargo area, which is held down by a few small screws.. Also, make sure the big rubber grommet is in place, mine was never installed right and the waste pipe flopped around and a very large amount of dust entered the cabin there. There should be almost no motion at all. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2821-how-to-waste-pipe-plastic-dust-grommet-not-secured-pipe-moves-around/ I recall that a member cut a great big hole in the bottom aluminum plate and used a 90 degree elbow so the hose would exit out straight down, and the bumper could then be closed while connected. I prefer not to have a hole there. A full timer who spends months connected might prefer that mod. John Davies Spokane WA

The Andersen and Bulldog parts have a street value of about $700 if bought online and IMHO they are worth at least $350 on Craigslist or another classifieds website like the one here. I hope that was a simple mistake, because otherwise it is quite unethical that Oliver kept them. They should have credited you the difference or at least given you some store credit. I would complain to your sales rep about it. Ask for some Ollie bits like camp chairs or hats. John Davies Spokane WA

FYI $1.00 in $2017 had a 2022 buying power of $1.16. So that is a 16% difference. My 2017 $63,000 Hull 218 would cost $66,780 in 2022 dollars. John Davies Spokane WA

Another member posted these showing current LE2 prices. If somebody has better quality ones, please PM me and I will replace them. Click Open in new tab (or window) to see full sized versions.) Out of curiosity I specced out a fully loaded model. 2023 Oliver Legacy Elite 2 Build Sheet - MAXXED OUT (most expensive options chosen) Twin bed w/ couch $73,800 TB w/ 2 upgraded foam cushions $1750 TB w/ 2 upgraded mattresses Ultrafabric $450 Hypervent $200 Omni-directioinal and portable satellite antenna $1400 Powered streets side awning $2300 Convection microwave $500 Composting toilet $1350 Truma AquaGo WH, Truma Aventra AC and Electric antifreeze kit $3850 Lithium Platinum Package 640 AH $15,900 Electronics Pro Package $2100 Outdoor Pro Package $2350 2 5/16” Andersen hitch with 2 5/16” Bulldog coupler $1200 Ligun table $500 Shower track $275 TOTAL $107,925 Here is mine: DAVIES Oliver Legacy Elite II “Mouse” Hull 218 FACTORY OPTIONS, delivered 04/26/2017: Note - Oliver was doing custom options at this time, some were done on the production line, some were done by Service at Delivery. EDIT 08/10/22 The base price is wrong in my description, it should be $48,500. Here is the actual build sheet for 2017 for my trailer: It is really hard to compare model years because so much of the optional stuff is now included in the base trailer. But the cost of a brand new one is maybe one reason the used trailers are selling at or near their original purchase prices 😉 For anyone buying used, try to find the original build sheet or ask Oliver Sales to send you one, it will give you a much better idea of how that pre-loved Ollie is equipped. The huge cost increases associated with the pandemic obviously are at work here. My $800 Natures Head option is now $1350. I am sure similar increases affect the cost of gelcoat and resin, structural aluminum, copper wires, wheels and axles, and of course the appliances. John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks for posting, I haven’t done it yet, but if you check all the expensive options, what is the total price for a fully specced out LE2? Mine was “moderately” equipped five years ago for $62k 😳 John Davies Spokane WA

How has it worked at 10,000 feet and a 12% climb? Or a 30 mph headwind? Or do you always stay low and in the East? What is your max tow rating, about 6500? It doesn’t take much very power to drive around on flat terrain near sea level😬 John Davies Spokane WA

https://gabriel.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Gabriel-HD-Tech-Bulletin-Shock-Installation.pdf I think somebody at Oliver is overdoing it…..BTW the shocks on my trailer are Monroe Gas Magnums. It is interesting, the Oliver warranty is just one year, but if you buy and install them yourself it is lifetime. Something to consider if you have one or more blown ones. https://www.carid.com/monroe/gas-magnum-rv-driver-or-passenger-side-shock-absorber-mpn-555001.html And if you do experience blown seals, it may be due to running way too much air in the tires. Two of mine blew in the first season (60 psi!). I replaced them and since then all have been fine at 42 psi. You are “supposed to” replace both on the same axle, but I suspect that recommendation is more for cars and trucks than for an RV. John Davies Spokane WA

1 and 3 are normal. The green circle is your shock bushings. Ideally they should not look like that, but it is actually very common, even in a nearly new truck. I think over tightening the nuts may cause this. I would inspect them annually, if they start to lose chunks of rubber, then you should change all eight pairs. You should also look at your shocks to make sure they are not leaking oil from the top of the lower cylinder (blown seal). I have never heard of spring maintenance on a trailer. That website is talking about trucks IMHO. I have never done anything except lube the grease zerk fittings, and check the hardware for tightness. Springs can and do fail, I am not sure you would be able to see a crack before it actually broke. As far as cleaning goes, one half hour run down the highway in heavy rain will clean them pretty well…. they get pressure washed by the water shooting out from under your TV. It would not hurt to spray a little penetrating oil on the rusty ubolts, right at the nuts, that will make it easier to check the torque and might help to prevent more rust in the future. It is unsightly but will remain purely cosmetic, unless you start towing in winter. The amount of threads showing past each nut should be the same. I am not sure why one ubolt is uneven. You could try to adjust it, but I don’t think is is a big deal, as long as it is clamped down tightly. Here is my 2017 LE2 Hull 218, I just now took a pic: Please add your trailer and tow vehicle info to a signature, so it will appear after all your posts so we will know what you have. There have been a lot of changes over the years. PS, my axles may look nicer than others this age because I have protective rubber flaps which keep the rocks and water from striking them directly. John Davies Spokane WA

Wow, this is an old thread, I had sort of lost track of it. You should grease the ball, but you also should add a can of spray brake cleaner and paper towels to your tow kit, because you will have to clean off the ball every time you unhitch, otherwise it will soil your pants or bare leg. Bad words will follow! It doesn't matter what type of grease, but a product that comes in a tube is much easier to store and to apply. It only takes a small amount, where the shiny spots and wear are positioned. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Park-Tool-Polylube-1000-Grease-Tube/33294585 It does attract dirt, so clean out the cavity in the coupler every now and then, or it will just turn into valve grinding compound 😉 John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks, what is the cost? Do they charge anything extra for the matching Andersen? And it is about time! Where is that disk brake option? 😀 Can you scan that build sheet and post it? John Davies Spokane WA

The 3.0 Duramax is a powerful and efficient motor but it has some pretty significant design faults that are enraging some owners, a redesign is coming that will hopefully fix them. I personally would not keep any modern diesel beyond the warranty period, and I would accept the idea that the entire cab (or body on an SUV) of your 3.0 truck might have to come off at a GM dealer to fix it. If it won’t start part way through your dream vacation, you might regret your purchase decision… especially if you are completely stranded in northern British Columbia with NO cell connectivity, no dealer within 300 miles and no way to get to your destination in Alaska or to return home. Think about that for a while 😳😳 https://pickuptrucktalk.com/2022/01/3-0l-duramax-diesel-long-crank-issues-continue-to-confound-dealers-frustrate-owners/ https://pickuptrucktalk.com/2022/04/replaced-already-new-gm-3-0l-duramax-diesel-lz0-coming/ OTH I do love how the turbo is mounted up top where it is super easy to service. Unlike the new Tundra/ Sequoia gas V6 and all V8 turbodiesels… John Davies Spokane WA

The wear on the Andersen hitch ball may be significantly reduced; it depends on how well the under side of the coupler was manufactured, and how tight the chains are adjusted…. My 2” Bulldog was pretty rough, and even the brand new replacement had blobs of weld splatter too! I towed “Mouse” about 5000 miles with a dead weight hitch behind a HD Ram and the 2” ball still looked OK. I switched TVs and installed an Andersen setup. My small Andersen ball was pretty much wrecked (and the very deep groove occasionally locked up and made a loud banging noise) after just a thousand miles. After installing the large ball and coupler it took about 18,000 before I started seeing similar wear. The ball does indeed need to be lubricated, even though it is advertised as grease free, or you will end up with a rusty mess. Plus the larger safety margin makes sense to me. I don’t overload but do tow on rough back roads. Even if I had a dead weight hitch the bigger ball would make me worry less about something happening in the boonies. A replacement Andersen ball and friction sleeve retails for about $80. The coupler itself is less than $100. Plus labor charges if you are not comfortable going the job. So $250 installed by Oliver seems fair to me, IF they give you back your smaller unused parts to resell! https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2139-bulldog-coupler-destroys-anderson-ball/ John Davies Spokane WA

It depends partly on how far extended the jacks are. If you are not using any blocks under them, then yes, there can be some motion, because the inside parts are not very well supported when far out. The easy way to eliminate it is to stack wood or “Lego” blocks underneath all three so that they only have to extend a few inches. That also conserves electrical power, and reduces wear and tear on the motors and gearboxes. Also, FYI the hardware that holds the jacks to the frame may be LOOSE, check all nuts and bolts for tightness, if any are loose, tightening them to the correct torque will firm things up. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6812-check-your-rear-jack-mount-hardware-bottom-frame-bolts-were-1-turn-loose/ John Davies Spokane WA