John E Davies

Is it simply a matter of disconnecting the gas supply, the two sets of power wires, and the drain tube? The upper baffle plates, do they just pull out after cutting the tape? There is some more tape down low on the left that has to get cut. I bought a Fridge Defend and was HOPING that I could install the temp sensor onto the boiler tube in situ, but there is no way I can reach that part of the tube, because the bottom access panel is so darned restricted. Why is it so tiny??? Grrrrr.😤 FYI, the Dometic owners manual cautions that the fridge must be removed annually for inspection. I am sure this was inserted by the lawyers because of the fire risk, but I have never had mine out. Do any other owners remove these every year?😳 If there is a thread about this, please point me in the right direction. How long should this take to do? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

That is a fun story in retrospect, the rain especially, one you will remember vividly forever. If you carry a generator you can boost the system in an hour and be on your way. Or add a DC to DC charger in the truck or trailer. As delivered there is no charging available that way. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5270-how-to-redarc-dc-to-dc-11-amp-output-trailer-charger-installation/ It is a fairly painless mod, but if your TV has a smart alternator you would have to run a small voltage sense wire up to it, which turns the charger on and off. Also consider a Mopeka propane detector - I have mixed feelings about mine, it tends to eat batteries but when working it is very handy. John Davies Spokane WA

No idea, I don’t have a Truma. It should be close to the unit, look for the copper gas line. It may be outside, Your Ollie options manual should show it. FYI it is prudent to know where all the gas valves are located! John Davies Spokane WA

I have no idea, but if you can’t get this corrected, be sure to shut off the heater gas valve! One Oliver owner had a catastrophic Truma failure with a nasty little fire. When in doubt, shut it down completely, including tripping the breaker and fuse(s). Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-11069353/Amazing-spike-maps-change-way-Earth.html John Davies Spokane WA

Modern lithium batteries have internal protection, part of their BMS (Battery Management System), that turns them off before they get so low that damage can occur. Running them to the absolute zero point could damage them, but it should not happen. So unless one is faulty, they should be fine. SOME lithium batteries, like Victron, do not have a BMS - they are not a wise investment for an RV. I hope you figure out how they got turned off. I am sure it won’t happen again. Have you stepped into a puddle of water in the bathroom yet? Every Ollie owner does that, one time, after forgetting to open the gray tank vent valve (aka travel valve). If you are unlucky, you will do it while wearing socks, so you have to go change them. A new RV has a steep learning curve. Hang in there. John Davies Spokane WA

FYI, winds out west can be completely unpredictable, you can get a sudden violent downburst out of the clear blue sky. I don’t use my awning much at all, and if I do put t out, I won’t leave the trailer for more than a few minutes with it extended. This is interesting …. https://www.rotaryforum.com/threads/strange-weather-phenomenon-micro-micro-burst-on-a-clear-day.27314/. John Davies Spokane WA

John Davies Spokane WA

You can’t do that safely to an electric awning that automatically retracts if it gets too windy! You should read through the Oliver owner and other manuals to familiarize yourself with the systems. This is from the Girard awning manual. You could disconnect the wind sensor system, but that would not be prudent for a number of reasons. I think Oliver should continue to make a manual awning standard, with the power version as an option. It would be far better for you to get a free standing shelter like a Clam, a believe that a big sized one will fit over a picnic table. I don’t have one (I sometimes use a 10x10 free standing canopy, tied down) but there have been a number of threads here about shelters. John Davies Spokane WA

The Internet is full of images of wrecked trucks with this caption, here is just one: Hmmm, looks like the rear suspension might be damaged too. John Davies Spokane WA

As always, post your hull number and model in a signature in every post…. preferably your tow vehicle info too. Do not assume that we all know what you own. Otherwise we have to look at your profile page to see if it is there… These trailers change constantly from year to year, and you are very correct, the technology is not at all intuitive if something does not work correctly. Once we know what systems you have, somebody can assist. Off the top of my bald head, I suspect there is a problem with the transfer switch, which is supposed to seamlessly bring your batteries online as soon as you unplug from shore power. EDIT - The latest Xantrex inverter has a built in transfer switch. (My five year old one is a separate relay.) So either that inverter function failed (a defective unit):, or the batteries are not in fact charged (check the voltage with a hand volt meter.) That is far as I can go with this problem because I don’t have this system…. Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA

Me too 😬 I was just researching a little mini-split for my master bedroom. Here is one with a jaw dropping SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating) rating of over 33. I don’t recall what my home Carrier AC unit is, maybe 14… these newest models have inverter controlled variable speed compressors that do not cycle on and off, they run at varying loads to keep the room temperature very close to the set temp. https://hvacdirect.com/mitsubishi-mz-fh06na-6-000-btu-33-1-seer-ductless-mini-split-heat-pump8958.html I think a 6000 btu model would work fine for an Ollie, since it could run constantly and efficiently without having to deal with the traditional on off cycling. These are all 240 volts, I am sure an RV model could be made for 120. Maybe the 2025 Ollies will use one. Sorry for the thread highjack. John Davies Spokane WA

That is unfortunate. I am not convinced that a nylon cable tie, even a big one, makes for a proper HVAC clamp, it really needs a worm screw steel one, IMHO. Once positioned and tightened correctly, it should not “blow off”. Cable ties are used in residential duct installations, but they usually just support the weight from a rafter, the actual connections are first screwed and then either taped or puttied. Thanks for posting the pictures. John Davies Spokane WA

Corvus, this is just a FYI, it is not a big deal: Your silver shower hose loops around the dump cable. If you want to gain another foot or two of extension, reroute it so that all of the hose is on the same side, that way the cable won’t stop it prematurely. You will need to unscrew the hose at one end. That is kind of a weird setup, the hose just flops around among all the other parts. I have been trying to think of a way to retain it, a net bag for example…. for water drainage; any ideas? John Davies Spokane WA

Early review showing all the defects in his year old Nest. This video was delayed because AS asked him not not publish it. Eventually he gave up and did upload it anyway. AS pawned everything off onto the local dealer, in the end everything was corrected to his satisfaction, and AS gave the owner a new 3 year warranty. But new failures piled up, so he got rid of it. 2019 Airstream Nest Defects: A REAL REVIEW https://www.airforums.com/forums/f368/new-nest-owner-anyone-else-having-issues-195445.html Yay Ollies! Some of the “bad” methods used by all Airstreams also apply to Olivers, such as using residential solid core 120VAC wire instead of premium marine grade multi-strand, and using cr@ppy “box store quality” outlets. At least we don’t have to deal with cabinets literally falling off the wall and rotted floors and frames…. the small amount of wood in an Ollie is non-structural and very well done, for the most part (I especially like the dovetailed drawers). From a different thread there, about Nest being discontinued. 465 units were built, and one member commented “You can win in the market place with a better mouse trap, or with a cheaper mouse trap, but you can’t win with a poor mouse trap sold at a premium price.” John Davies Spokane WA

That bin is roughly 38”x22”, could you get two into your Ollie, with bikes inside? Will they fit end to end in the center aisle? It seems as if it might be possible but not easy… or practical as a long term solution. I don’t know the weight rating for their top and sides, could two loaded ones stack on top of each other in a truck bed? John Davies Spokane WA

Check the Lectric forum at https://electricbikereview.com/forums/forum/lectric-ebikes/ Somebody there will have the answer to your storage bin question. You have to register to post, it takes moderator approval and may take a day or two. John Davies Spokane WA

Stripped carriage bolts ….. darn it! Drill or grind the heads off, completely. Drive the shanks down and out the bottom with a brass drift. Replace them with hex head bolts and thick washers. Perhaps an hour’s labor IF you have good access up top. Oliver should definitely cover the repair! They are stainless, not that hard to drill, as you discovered when the square heads rounded off. (I have snapped a seized 1/2” bumper bolt into pieces with a regular breaker bar, to wasn’t TOO difficult.) Hand cut square holes? That seems overly primitive for a factory, but these are special jacks I think, so that bracket defect probably is the jack manufacturer’s fault. Good luck, stuff like this makes you want to scream, doesn’t it? John Davies Spokane WA

The lightest model is 36 L x 16 W x 27 H inches. Any regular bin big enough to hold one will be impossible to get through the entry door. Unless perhaps Lectric makes a hard transport bin in a special narrow width, just for their bike. You still have the problems of how to secure them when towing, and how to walk around them when stopped for a quick break. The center isle of an LE2 is less than 2 feet wide😳 Those are Class 2 (manual throttle), are you aware of the possible limitations of where you can or cannot legally ride them? The single speed drivetrain is not a good thing. You need multiple gears to help climb steep hills and to not deplete the tiny battery so fast. For dead flat bike trails it would be adequate. If you are allowed to ride on them at all. https://lectricebikes.com/collections/xp-lite-series/products/xp-lite-arctic-white Email their customer service rep, ask if they know of a case like this that their bikes will fit into: CASE - Bagi Bike B16 Hard Shell Folding Bike Case John Davies Spokane WA

Interesting, that is completely new to me. https://www.aquorwatersystems.com/products/hydrant-v1-plus So would you have one water hose running from Ollie to the portable table kitchen? It will waste a fair amount of hot water waiting for the temperature to get hot at the outlet. Where will the grey water go? Do you mind explaining the reason for this project? It sounds cool, but I am not understanding the purpose. Large gatherings? Lots of dishes? Is this going to be a problem? It appears that the plastic coupler is a potential failure point, since there is always full flow available when it is inserted. The comment about irrigation use is odd, I wonder what their reasoning is…. It does have both a mechanical and a vacuum break. John Davies Spokane WA

First of all, are you talking about modifying the Ollie or the Sprinter? I don’t think you will find a non-plastic RV valve unit. There are plastic QC ones in white or black: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Empire-Faucets-RV-Outside-Shower-Valve-4-Quick-Connect-Valve-Faucet-Black/370166665 Is that what you had in mind for the Ollie? You would have to store the hose somewhere. You could make a plastic piece to cover the hole going into the hull, and epoxy it in place. I am a little unclear how you would get the hose to the outdoor kitchen, I suppose it could lie on the ground and the end could clip to a leg. Does the other kitchen have its own faucet and sink? Are you trying to connect the Ollie water supply directly to that? I think you need to post some pictures to better show what exactly you want to do… because I am confused.😬 John Davies Spokane WA

If any windows are getting direct sunlight you can add reflective cut-to-fit panels there, just like a sunshade for your car windshield. That will help a little with heat gain. Reflectix is one common brand, any home box store has it in rolls in other brand names. Keeping the sun completely off is better…. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-24-in-x-10-ft-Double-Reflective-Insulation-24x10DRI/314983628 John Davies Spokane WA

Is the trailer shaded at all? Full sun for many hours is almost impossible to deal with, but if you can shift it during the hot months it to a spot that is shady in the afternoon, that will help a lot. These trailers are well insulated, but that doesn’t mean they don’t heat up. It just means the inside temp lags by a few hours, and once it peaks and the air outside cools, it takes a similar time to cool down inside the hull.. If you have lithium batteries, you should try to limit their prolonged exposure to temps in the triple digits. My trailer sits inside, it is 102 today but just 88 inside the RV bay, according to my weather station. My VictronConnect app lets me see how my Battle Borns are doing, without leaving my comfy armchair in the house. (I have an exhaust vent fan on a timer, and I crack the two big doors a couple of inches each night after dark to cool the garage some.) If you don’t have a way to monitor battery temps remotely, there are Bluetooth sensors that would allow you to keep a closer eye on things without having to venture outside into the heat. You could also bring the lithium batteries inside until the heat dome has gone. I can’t think of much else except the food that might be affected by the concentrated heat. Certainly chocolate bars are not going to do well. Maybe prescription meds, and ammunition should be removed. Anything that recommends store at room temperature.. .😬 John Davies Spokane WA

I don’t recommend the Heavy Duty rack, I am not sure it is even RV rated. You need a Super Duty. I think you need a really stiff material as insulator pad, so it does’t flex at all. Oliver uses some rubber like sheet between the support arms and the top of the sewer compartment, and they say that they haven’t seen loose bolts, but to be safe I would find a plastic sheet that won’t try to squeeze out.. The stainless hardware is fine but adding rubber washers and sleeves in addition is overkill unless you plan to tow through battery acid. Oliver doesn’t use that with their hardware. Though they do add aluminum sleeves in one place, where the Bulldog coopler bolts go through the tongue. John Davies Spokane WA

FYI, this is important, the 1-Up and some other expensive racks like that Yakima Stage 2 have a proprietary locking mechanism to stop play (rocker stopper). The 1-Up rack is made primarily of aluminum, yay, but it uses a steel stinger which has a great big stainless steel ball that cams out and locks to the inside of the female receiver. It is extremely effective! BUT you need a steel receiver, because it will literally destroy an aluminum one, plus there would obviously be dissimilar metal corrosion worries. That rack is used with my Land Cruiser, I don’t have a square receiver my Ollie. I mentioned this part in a different thread, but I will do again here. I would simply bolt on this unit to the top of the factory cross bar, with an insulating pad between the two parts. It would probably be cheaper than having a shop fabricate one from raw steel. And this has a pretty powder coating, the shop would just spray it with some rattle can enamel without bothering to prime it. So you would end up redoing it yourself in a year. 😀 Ultra-Tow Step Bumper Receiver - Class II, 3500-Lb. GTW, 2in. John Davies Spokane WA