John E Davies

The Tundra 5.7 comes with much better gears (4.30 ratio) than my Land Cruiser (3.90) and it tows just fine. The payload is the big limiting factor. My 2013 LC 200 is rated at 8300 pounds towing, the 2013 Tundra 5.7 is up to 10,400. It s all about the axle gears, which give you that lovely torque multiplication at the wheels, which also greatly reduces the stress on the engine and transmission. And theoretically gives better towing mileage, as long as you don’t compensate for the extra power by just driving faster everywhere…. John Davies Spokane WA

It was an easy fix for maybe $30 in parts (in 1990 dollars) but in those pre-Internet days, nobody knew anything about mods. You had to figure stuff out yourself, or chance running across an article in a truck magazine . It is mind boggling how long manufactures used engine driven fuel pumps, it makes no sense. whatsoever. I had to replace the Sub’s once when I came out to find a pool of gas under the engine, the diaphragm had ruptured, fortunately it took only twenty minutes to replace. Now imagine that part failing while towing up a mountain with a glowing hot exhaust manufold six inches away😳 John Davies Spokane WA

Great post, you can sort of get away with a marginal TV if you live and camp in the East, but once you start stressing it really hard in the Western mountains, passes, headwinds and hot deserts, it simply isn’t acceptable. Too much trailer for too little truck I had a 1984 Suburban 3/4 ton 2wd with the 454 gas carbureted engine. It was an underpowered brute (just 360 ft lbs) but with some engine intake and and exhaust mods and a different distributor advance curve it was wonderful. In spite of only having three gears. I pulled a 9500 pound boat/ trailer combo and found that the factory axle (3.5 ish? ) was very inadequate for mile high elevation, and I had a 4.10 Detroit Locker installed in SLC, mid way to my Lake Meade destination. That fixed it but there were still times when it would vapor lock and quit at the top of a long steep hot grade. I had to install an electric inline fuel pump that I could turn on manually to feed the stock engine driven pump, which would overheat otherwise. I put a 40 gallon tank in place of the stock 25 gallon one. Ah the good old days; carburetors, points and distributor, spark plug wires, frequent tuneups, oil leaks, crappy build quality, and too many roadside breakdowns. John Davies Spokane WA

Since the DEF consumption rate is proportional to fuel burned, if you are towing an Ollie and getting say 16 to 18 mpg, you will be burning, almost twice as much DEF. I would appreciate hearing fuel and DEF consumption numbers from owners here, towing and not towing. And have you ever NOT been able to find some when you needed it? Ever had your engine go into limp mode? How did you deal,with that? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

I thought I was fairly knowledgeable about DEF, but I learned a few important things, like don’t store a spare gallon long term in more than 85 degrees or it will degrade. Here are a few interesting facts. “the typical average light duty truck will consume 2-3 gallons of DEF per 800 miles. However, most new trucks with an average miles per gallon rating of 20+mpg will go roughly 8,000-10,000 miles on a tank full (10 gallons) of DPF. Each truck is different, The only cons to DEF include the additional upfront cost to the truck, added nominal weight and some additional room to store an extra gallon of the fluid. The pros are better fuel economy, increased horsepower, more optimized combustion, fewer regenerations issues, less wear on the engine and in addition it only releases nitrogen and water vapor into the air. Manufacturers have found that engines containing SCR technology oftentimes get better fuel mileage compared with other smog reduction internal systems. Fuel mixed in with the SCR finds an added source of elements to burn. Fuel mileage can be improved by as much as 5%-7%” https://www.capitalremanexchange.com/20-facts-you-need-to-know-about-diesel-exhaust-fluid-def/ Sort of related: https://www.rvtravel.com/good-news-def-head-alternatives-coming/ None of this makes me want to buy a diesel truck….😳 John Davies Spokane WA

Yes it uses DEF. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=X80r0y7OXOg You should at least be aware of its cost, it has been climbing and should be part of your fuel economy calculation, unless you are so financially well off that it becomes irrelevant. https://mansfield.energy/market-news/def-prices-explode-how-to-manage-your-def-supply/ John Davies Spokane WA

ALL Ollies will differ, depending on brake age, adjustment, wear, cleanliness, weather, road surface and probably a few more variables. Maybe the phase of the moon …. All TVs will differ, unless perhaps they are using the same exact controller and same boost setting. Drive at about 25 mph on a deserted paved road, increase the gain until the brakes lock manually, using the lever, then back off some. Tweak the setting up or down until it feels best. Back it off when driving on gravel or they will skid. Crank it up in torrential rain when they will quit functioning entirely…. Yes drum trailer brakes are crummy, you just need to learn to make the most of that. Having a small TV with small service brakes exacerbates the situation. Folks with HD trucks tend ignore the trailer brakes for the most part when pulling a 6000 pound trailer. Being able to stop safely when the trailer brakes are not working as designed is something most new owners don’t think about when shopping for a TV, if it even occurs to them at all. Compact pickups like the Colorado are unsafe tow vehicles for the LE2 IMHO, because of their smaller brake components, the front rotors in a 2022 are 3 inches smaller than a comparable Silverado 1500. John Davies Spokane WA

There are lots of issues with these brakes, when they work, they seem OK but there is a lot of extra stuff that can fail, or start dragging or binding, compared to the old fashioned manual version. And they are difficult to reassemble once you strip all the parts down. You really need to look inside at all four brakes, you may have a failed inner grease seal. Grease on the lining will cause serious lockup problems. And if that is the case, you are looking at a pair of new brake assemblies. Never replace just one side of an axle. Don’t bother trying to replace individual parts, it is very cost prohibitive and dealers don’t carry them anyway. You can indeed adjust the automatic type, look at this article. … https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2778-brakes-auto-adjust-vs-manual-adjust-what-are-the-differences/ Good luck. Drum brakes suck….. John Davies Spokane WA

I can’t comment on future hardware that might be installed… . And Oliver keeps changing their battery supplier, so I am not familiar with all the variations. I do think that Oliver should include a central monitor as standard equipment, because a battery specific app that only sees what is inside the batteries is just not good enough. John Davies Spokane WA

“You can make many upgrades to your battery system, but one of the simplest and most useful is adding a battery monitor. Let’s take a look at what a battery monitor is and how it can help you get the most out of your battery system.” https://battlebornbatteries.com/what-is-a-battery-monitor/ John Davies Spokane WA

Ta daaaaa!: https://reason.com/2022/06/24/green-germany-prepares-to-fire-up-the-coal-furnaces/ Washington state wants no more new gas vehicles in just 8 years: https://www.kuow.org/stories/washington-wants-drivers-to-plug-into-clean-cars-by-2030-before-other-west-coast-states There is a very large "head stuck in the sand" attitude about renewable energy and the reality of completely replacing an "outdated" technology (internal combustion) essentially overnight.. What we really need to solve this mess is a completely new tech like cold fusion. John Davies Spokane WA

I like your installation, but I have a suggestion to clean up the grey communication cable. I got a humongous one like yours when I bought the Smart Bus, but I only needed about five feet. I found this cable, and tossed that huge one in the recycle bin. It will make your installation look a whole lot neater. Some of us care about stuff like that😬 It’s probably available from a number of vendors, this is the one I found: https://www.ecodirect.com/Victron-Energy-VE-Direct-Cable-1-8m-5-9-p/victron-energy-ass030530218.htm You could loop the excess cable and hide it underneath your Victron display board, so none of it would show. John Davies Spokane WA

Yay, sorry I hijacked your campground thread. John Davies Spokane WA

“Free” camping, though in fact the code of conduct requests that you to buy something to support the host, a $20 minimum purchase. If you are at a winery and don’t consume alcohol, or an air museum and don’t like airplanes, or the potato museum, or the vacuum cleaner museum, that can be a big problem. Even if you drink wine, it gets old buying more bottles or cheese than you want to consume. If they have a cafe or snack bar, you can eat there and tip well. https://harvesthosts.com/code-of-conduct/ Boondockers Welcome has no $ constraints, but the likelihood of having a poor experience is higher because these are just folks letting you park in their driveway or vacant lot. Sometimes the drive in is rough and dusty, or muddy. Because they are doing this for free, they seem to be lonely older people seeking company, who want to talk and talk and talk….. Of the two, I tend to use the BW sites, unless there is a particularly enticing commercial spot at a HH. If you join both the map shows all the locations with color coded icons. These sites do help you to save money, when gas prices are so horribly high. But they tend to be clustered along the major highways in populated areas, and if you are headed to the Nevada boonies, don’t expect to find many choices. John Davies Spokane WA

I was actually talking about 4wd Low Range, not your regular low gear, but since the road was paved that isn’t an option, unless you are in a Land Cruiser which has a center differential and can be driven in 4 Low on hard surfaces. I use that range every now and then in Idaho, with and without the Ollie, there are some steeeep grades, approaching 20%.. Does your brake controller allow you to test the “gain” setting using a lever? That is the best way to see what the heck is going on in back, before you head down that precipice 😳 Please add your tow vehicle info to your signature, that is often helpful.. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

That is certainly convenient and cheap, but around here you don’t get 20 pounds of propane, they only fill the bottles to a little over 15. That might cause you to run dry a lot sooner than you expected. I just bought a 20 pound bottle at U-Haul so I can actually fill it. I would not carry an extra big bottle on the tongue unless it is permanently mounted. Some ferries prohibit portable ones, but permanently installed RV ones are allowed. Bikes covering tail lights…. I don’t think a pair carried up high on the factory receiver will be a problem. My custom 1-Up tray is lower down and the ebike definitely obscures the lights, big time, but it has really thick aero rims and 700C x 47 tires. I added an LED light bar. Or you can buy cheap towing lights designed to go on a car, and figure out a temporary mount. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6892-how-to-connect-a-standard-sae-4-pin-harness-or-4-pin-with-backup-lights-to-your-oliver-factory-7-pin-wires/ Front 120 VAC connection, I would not get it. You can connect a gennie in the truck bed to the side port using a heavy (10 AWG) 25 foot extension cord and a 15 to 30 amp RV adapter pigtail (at the trailer). https://www.marinco.com/en/p/104SPP/Pigtail-Adapter-30A-125V-Female-To-15A If your gennie has a 30 amp receptacle, just use the factory cable. I very rarely use the standard 30 amp cord, perhaps one or two times each season if I have hookups in hot weather... I run my Yamaha in the Land Cruiser sometimes, sitting on the tailgate. If I think there is a theft risk, I put it on the ground and cable lock it to the frame. John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks for posting, from the reviews you probably took the “wrong” road with your trailer; there is a longer route that isn’t so steep. If it was gravel you could have used 4 Low to save the brakes. Did you find the sites to be dusty? Bears? Why is the water brown? https://thedyrt.com/camping/california/california-balch-park It is always a good idea to say where the campground is located, 99.9% of us have no clue at all. From the pictures I thought it was on the coast… when in fact it is in the Sierras. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Gelcoat is basically plastic resin, the same material as the resin used to bond the fiberglass cloth, but with pigment. Which is also called GRP or Glass Reinforced Plastic. So any tape used on plastic or smooth surfaces is fine. I am not familiar with the first one, but 5952 is easy to find in different lengths and widths. You can cut it lengthwise but it is tricky because it sticks so darned hard to scissors or a blade. If you want some for general use the 1/2” width is probably a good choice. You can always use two strips to make it wider. Make sure you are getting 3M and not some knockoff VHB. And be aware of the load rating, if you have a heavy object it won’t work, for example a regular fire extinguisher… but it is great for an Element E50 one, or an inReach charging dock. John Davies Spokane WA

“Covered storage” yay! This sounds like a perfect scenario for a 50 to 100 watt portable panel for maintaining the AGMs as a trickle charger. You might need to secure the panel with a cable lock. Or ask the owner if you can permanently mount a bracket on a nearby roof support. John Davies Spokane WA

The only part of my drawers that has any kind of coating is the upper sidet of the plywood bottom. If you want to take steps to preserve the wood, you should coat all the parts, including the insides of the cabinet itself. That way if you get an unexpected gusher from a failed sink connection, it will not soak in. Though a long slow drip is much more likely to cause rot and failure, because you might not notice it for many months or years. John Davies Spokane WA

Sorry, I missed this, there isn't a thread about it, as far as I know. It is just common sense that any "dead end" part that can potentially collect water, should have at least a couple of weep holes underneath to allow it to escape, one at each end of the bumper, for example. For the bike rack mount, the big cross beam has through holes in it, to attach the square receiver, and just like for the bumper, Oliver added pretty decorative end caps to the beam. The big mount holes will allow a little moisture to trickle out around the washers and nuts, but eventually those gaps will fill with dirt and corrosion. Did they add dedicated drain holes in the bottom? I dunno. Freezing is a concern, as is long term corrosion. If you see standing water on any part of your Ollie, you should take steps to stop it. Both of the entry steps, for example, hold water on top when stowed; you can drill some 1/8" holes in the low spots to eliminate that. The first Ollie awning support bracket was a simple L shape, that was fine though maybe prone to developing cracks at the bend. The first redesign of the bracket had a welded triangular gusset. It would stop any cracks but trapped water, and it is up on the roof where an owner couldn't see it. A second redesign had the triangle tip cut off, providing a channel for the water to go away on its own. I don't know if that part has further changed 😉 It is a sign that Oliver continually updates and refines stuff, based on owner experiences and feedback. It would be really nice if there were a webpage dedicated to keeping track of the evolutionary changes to various parts, to educate and to alert owners that they might have a problematic part. The Ollie Service Department knows all this, and can advise, but the information isn't available to owners, as far as I know... John Davies Spokane WA

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/477198-3m-4000-vs-4200-a.html 5200 is forever, with a very tenacious grip and quite difficult to remove. Think joining the deck of a boat to the hull. Or the top half of an Ollie to the bottom. (I don’t know what they use but this would be a great choice.) 4200 is similar, but with less grip and easier to remove, not UV (sunlight) resistant. Good for below the waterline hardware in a boat. Fast Cure 4000 UV is my go to sealant for exterior parts like windows or roof vents, where the 4200 would not be appropriate. It holds up well in sunlight and does not yellow. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-4000UV/dp/B0000AY0ND/ref=asc_df_B0000AY0ND/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193131231816&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10666757639209084638&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033787&hvtargid=pla-340533059924&psc=1 All have adhesive properties but IMHO they should always be used along with mechanical fasteners or tape. 3M VHB is used when there are no screws or rivets, for example you want to attach something inside the cabin where you don’t want to drill holes. When used outside it should always have sealant applied around the joint to prevent water intrusion, and for better appearance. Even if there are no penetrating holes, you want to keep all water out so it can’t freeze and harm the bond. IMHO! In reality any good quality (name brand) white marine grade silicone sealant is OK for outside stuff. FYI all have expiration dates, you can sometimes cheat on that, but don’t be shocked if your recently opened tube of 4200 is rock hard the next time you use it. Write down when you bought or opened the product ON the product. Read and follow the instructions! Some solvents can’t be used because they might affect the cure. I have some long expired VHB tape that I will continue to use, but I always test a small piece before committing to using the rest. If I had a really critical application for the tape, I would use brand new product, just to be safe. Look at this thread for how to use VHB tape and sealant for a professional looking result. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2082-how-to-install-a-big-bubble-level-no-drilling/ Does this help? John Davies Spokane WA

Welcome to the forum. How exactly will you use the Ollie, do you in fact plan to Full Time? That can really affect your TV choice, because the more “stuff” you want to bring, the more likely you will run into that nasty payload limitation that all half ton (1500 class) and big SUVs have. For a pickup, you have to include the weight of any accessories you add such as a bed liner, canopy or hard tonneau cover. It can add up to 250 pounds…. If you won’t have a travel partner, it makes it easier to deal with. More people equals more stuff….. One factor is the Andersen hitch, which is 100% required for the bigger trailer with the light duty trucks. It works quite well but it adds a whole lot of complexity to hitching and unhitching, and sometimes it will make you swear and kick dirt if the parts are not aligned perfectly. A heavy duty truck solves a lot of problems, including that sometimes pesky Andersen, because you simply don’t need it. And your payload is so much greater, you don’t have to fret about every little thing adding up. The Ram 2500s are very nice, they drive well and the interiors are very car-like. They do indeed sit high, but running boards or an electric stowaway side step will deal with that. I can’t help with pricing, the used vehicle market is insane and unpredictable. At the very least, consider a HD truck, maybe drive a RAM 2500 to see if it suits. Your choice of power depends on how many miles you plan to tow. A lot of members have and love their diesel trucks, but out of warranty they can be a financial heartache. I personally would suggest a powerful gas engine. If you haven’t spent time in the Towing forum, do some reading there. Look for a complete tow package, and as many “driver aids” as you can, they all help to make towing easier. Edit, did you mean 228”, because that is only 19 feet and there are a whole lot of good choices that are longer. It is going to seriously limit your search! I would not buy a truck just so it can fit in the garage, if the house is going to be sold! Just park it outside. John Davies Spokane WA

SteveCr, you can definitely add additional grounds there, you just have to be sure to remove all the black stuff down to bare smooth metal. FYI you should not have more than 4 per stud, if you need more, add another stud with a big jumper cable to it, or else a bus bar. Do not be like this boat: Yikes. John Davies Spokane WA

I plan to start a new thread at some point, after I have hitched up, adjusted the parts and road tested it, which may be a while, but here are some pics of my Amazon Indusco turnbuckle posted above. FYI my Andersen installation is NOT factory, I deviated from Oliver’s standards and the front chain section may not be the same length as yours. Measure to make sure! Otherwise you might have to cut some chain links. My front chain section measures about 15.5 inches end to end, to the inside of the last links. I set the turnbuckle to that length, and I ended up with 2” of free threads both inside and outside of the housing, which will allow me to loosen each chain 4 “ or more. It’s like the turnbuckle was designed for this application😬 The turnbuckles come with thin free spinning nuts. I installed 1/2”-13 stainless nylocks for safety, They just fit, with no room for washers. The heat shrink tubing has not yet been shrunk, it will provide a visual reference when tightening the housings back again. I will post a few more pics and some commentary in that new thread, but this should get a member started if you want to do this easy easy mod. John Davies Spokane WA