rich.dev

The friction cone is covered under warranty, but shipping cost to Canada is $53.46 so I’m looking at buying one locally. Apparently (per Anderson) there’s an old style and a new style Anderson WDH cone, the correct friction cone for my 2023 WDH is blue and looks like the one in the image I have put below. The white friction cone is for the old system, which one did you get?

Here’s a post on Facebook showing the new bathroom window, looks like a full tilt out awning window! https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1AfbuQxS34/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Mike, I see there’s 4 options for the drain master 3 valve tank kits, 6029, 6014, 6023 and 6022, which one did you order?

Ah yes, a bummer for the new owners if it’s the partial tilt out windows, I just assumed it would be the fully tilt out windows! A good reminder what someone once told me, assumption is the mother of all screw ups!

Am I missing something, I believe with a fully tilt out window you will actually have much better cross ventilation vs the stock sliding windows, it boils down to size matters! The opening with my side windows fully open is approx. 15"x18" (only approx. half of it widthwise is open), wherass with a same frame size as current Olivers but fully tilt out window you will have the entire window opening of approx. 15"x46". VS

@topgun2, I can see this topic (Oliver switching to awning style windows in 2026) getting a lot of interest, maybe move these window posts to a new thread?

Nice, I will definitely be interested in switching if the window openings of the 2026 are the same as my 2023!

John, I had the Tekonsha P3 Prodigy for about 10 yrs and it worked well for me.

No, I haven’t really looked much, but this could be a close fit https://a.co/d/1oQhfJi

Amazon, many brands but here’s just one https://a.co/d/1oQhfJi

Jason, I’m not sure about the Overland brand, but there are brands available with integrated day/night shade screens. Yes I have seen people complain about scratching, but you can polish them out. https://youtu.be/N1vh-ETtRgE?si=-CqN8-Kbm2MV50VI Here’s a good video from The Fit RV on why you want dual pane acrylic windows in your RV.

1) This☝️ 2) Yes, depending on the style of the awning window, I prefer the awning style windows where the entire window can be pushed out (see pic) vs just a small section at the bottom awning style, or half of a sliding window (like the Oliver window) Please report back on what style windows Oliver will be switching to.

I see there’s a bit of a gap between the window frame and inside wall (black arrow), when you have the shade removed check to see if the screws that secure the window frame (red arrow) to the main window are not lose, but pay attention not to over tighten them, they strip easily.

Awesome job, do you have a part# or link for this switch?

The red arrow is not the window frame, it’s the window shade. Here is an Oliver video that shows how the window shade is removed/secured.

@John and Debbie Is it the window frame (black arrow) or window shade (red arrow) that’s loose?

Hoping for the new owners they will be awning style windows. The sliding windows in our 2023 is probably my biggest pet peeve, and I will seriously consider switching them out!

John, do you have a link or part# for the new fuse that you bought?

Actually it was upgraded to 150lbs a few years ago.

This is what mine looks like, we’re not on shore power and inverter on. IMG_1168.mov

Yah I saw that video, mine is a 2023 and the outside caulking around the windows, Oliver sign and external lights above the windows are still good. Yes my 2023 has the wire/mesh inserts, I was covering the fresh water and AC drain tubes with copper steel wool, so I figured while I’m down there I might as well do the scuppers as well. We did see some moisture/condensation on the inside of the windows, but not much. I thought maybe because the windows are dual pane, ie better insulation, while the inner frame of the windows are metal and in between the hulls so more potential for condensation on them like in my picture, but I can be wrong! Anyway, I did add some butyl tape and silicone around the inner window frames so time will tell. I’m also thinking of spraying some foam type insulation around the inner window frames. Thoughts on that?

If you’re not connected to shore power the AC will not show up on the cp plus screen unless you turn the inverter on, with the inverter on it will show the “heater” and “AC” option.

@GlacierGirl I believe the 2” Oliver receiver was not stock on your 2021 LEII, Oliver switched to the 2” receiver late 2024 models, previous to that it was a 1.25 or 1.5” I think. Do you have an after market receiver? Like @Jason Foster said, maybe post some pictures.

Sounds like the issue is with customs in the US, did you reach out to them?

Well since you asked 😜, we have experienced what I believe to be inner hull condensation just recently! We are moochdocking in a location where it started raining then snowed, and then temps dropped significantly. The next day we experienced water dripping from below all our windows. I know from reading post on this forum that a roof leak, rear Oliver sign or exterior lights above the windows can let water run down inside the air gap between the inner and outer hulls and appear as a window leak. However, all our windows leaked, and I couldn’t find any leaks on the roof, rear Oliver sign and external lights above the windows, so I’m fairly certain that under the right circumstances (like what we experienced) condensation between the hulls can do the same thing. I removed the inside window trim and noticed small water drops on top of the metal window frame that I suspect was caused by condensation. I have to add that I filled the scupper holes with copper steel wool to deter pests/rodents from gaining entrance. I now wonder if that affected the airflow between hulls causing condensation on the metal window frames?