rich.dev

Sorry but I couldn’t get past the mailbox look!

We also have a 2023 LE2, model# is next to the light switch, should be CR130EL

@DunnYet the Anderson WDH is available in a 2 and 2 5/16” ball, we have hull# 1386 (also a 2023) with 2 5/16” bulldog coupler and Anderson WDH. Make sure what size bulldog coupler is on your LE2 before you buy the Anderson WDH. Just an FYI.

Maybe all the LE2s with 2” bulldog couplers, we have the 2 5/16” bulldog coupler.

Wow on battery alone, it couldn’t have been too hot and the compressor not running a lot?

Ah ok gotcha, thanks!

Very nice! Is the mount 3M VHB permanently mounted to the roof and the dish is removable?

Lol thanks, didn’t know there’s a 2500 and 2500HD, I have the 2500HD with 3600lb payload. I upgraded from a 2016 VW Touareg TDI, the VW towed like a champ but payload is only 1200lb.

Like @jd1923 said, the truck model does not matter, and if you have a F150 it probably has a 2" hitch receiver. ***Important, do you know what size the bulldog coupler is on the EII that you're purchasing, probably 2", but it's also available with a 2 5/16" bulldog coupler (we have it)? You want to know that spec because the AWDH is also available with a 2" or 2 5/16" ball. BTW, we got our 2023 LEII with the 2 5/16 bulldog coupler and 2 5/16" AWDH with 2" receiver. We recently upgraded to a Chevvy 2500 with 2.5" receiver so I prchased a 2.5" stinger/shaft from Anderson for the AWDH. Yes, I know I don't need a WDH with the 2500 but I'm thinking I have it so why not use it!

Would love to hear/see more about your peplink setup jd, and not sure if I've missed it, but do you also have the Starlink, if yes do you have it connected via the WAN port on your peplink? We're going semi full time end October and I'm thinkng of getting a peplink and Starlink.

Correct, the plates are now spaced to fit the 2 x 200w Newpowa solar panels.

Bill, I found this picture and post from John E Davies, the picture shows the position of the rubber strips. Not sure if jd's is the same, but looking at this picture from John, there's a rubber strip lenghtwise on the front of the box between the 2 gussets/L brackets (probably the 3/8" thick), and the 1/4" thick one diagonal in the back. Below is the picture and HERE'S the link to that post.

Excellent point! 👏

Nice, we also have the composting toilet and I was wondering how to drain the sink and shower into the black tank. Do you have a link for the original Facebook post? Looks like you’ve just switched the sink drain with the composting toilet vent, so now draining the sink down the black tank vent. No issues with that, and the composting toilet now venting out the great tank vent?

I think this what you're looking for. https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007

What a legend, was and still is my favourite artist!

Yup here’s the thread from John E Davies on the fresh water tank suction tube mod.

💯 agree on Amazon, not too many weeks go by without me ordering something from Amazon. But I avoid dealing with UPS and FedEx like the plague! Maybe it’s just because I’m from Canada, but with UPS and FedEx there’s always all kinds of extra charges! 😔

@Joe C I see on your profile you have a 2024 Elite, we have a 2023 and I was advised no need to register the cell booster.

The fuse should be under the street side access panel. It’s an inline 2A fuse I believe.

Great, thank you very much Bill! 😉

Patriot, do you maybe have part numbers or size of the ubolts and plates from Oliver? I’m hoping to source this kit up here in Canada rather than paying and arm and leg for shipping from Oliver.

To reduce voltage loss, here are a Couple videos explaining it. …….and

Geoff, this is what I was advised by Oliver….. Always leave the inverter off on the inverter, and control the inverter from the silver button on the remote. My remote is mounted about eye height just forward of the pantry on the street side. Also , Oliver recommended turning the inverter off on the remote when connected to shore power. They say that if your inverter is on, and you lose shore power, your batteries might be depleted without you knowing it is happening. ** the draw of the inverter is not the concern here, but more so the 120V appliances you might leave on that would draw your battery down. So, in a nutshell, use/push the silver button on the remote in (on position) to turn on the inverter to supply 120V power to appliances. Leave the silver button on the remote out (off position) unless you are not connected to show power and wish to run 120V appliance on inverter power. Turning the inverter off when you don’t need it will conserve 12V battery power.

Thanks Mossey, I understand you need a disconnect for the permanently mounted rooftop solar. Sorry if I wasn’t clear in my original post. I have the factory 400W solar on the roof with Victron MPPT 100/50 CC and disconnect in the cubby above the street side bed. I now want to add an additional 400W Renogy suitcase to connect with the stock outside Zamp port per my above sketch. Do I need a disconnect for this setup? Like I said in my original post, my concern is plugging in and out the external suitcase might cause an arc in the external Zamp connection and solar suitcase plug if there's no disconnect switch between the Zamp port and new Victron 100/300 CC.