rich.dev

Welcome Thomas, what is your hull#? Anyway, here are a couple posts about Nature’s Head install in Oliver.

Art, it’s still early and I haven’t had my coffee yet, so maybe I’m reading it wrong, but didn’t you mean to say “they have kept that typical paint-rub & oxidation from happening on the bottom”? 😊

I was looking at CGI and MAC (Master Applied Coating) and decided to go with MAC The appeal of MAC’s proprietary ceramic is their claim of it being a permanent application and made in the USA, it would have to be sanded off to remove it. I have an appointment with MAC April 2nd, time will tell I guess!😊

@Galileo Per my previous post, we have a 2023 and I removed the awning seal and installed THIS 3/4” drip rail that works very well. Only issue is the drip rail comes wrapped in a coil and having it straightened up was a mission, almost impossible. Even after I managed to get the drip rail somewhat straightened out and stuck to the side (below awning) of the RV, the front top edge of the "J" is still warped, even now 4 months later. That said, it’s just aesthetics and I still like it much better than the stock seal, all it did was catching junk and it was hard to clean behind it.

Was great meeting you and Chris, save travels back to Prescott and “normal” live!

Here’s another Oliver thread with good read about the shock bushings.

X2 what John said! I love these friction hinges, they work wonderfully. I don’t have to use the latch = no pressure against that back stop. I can leave the door open when there is a breeze and the door stays where I put it and no more fly away door! 😊

Received your dm @topgun2 Bill, I responded and invited John @jd1923

Sorry let me clarify John. I always fill up the freshwater tank and use the water pump for everyday use, even when at full hookup campsites. Why I do this is a discussion for another day! 😊 In this mode, when the water pump starts sucking air, the SeeLevel shows still 13% left in the tank. On the other hand, when I drain the freshwater tank by opening the valve like in THIS video, it drains 100%, ie SeeLevel shows “0”. This is obviously because the drain point is at the bottom of the tank. So my thinking is the water pump suction tube is off the bottom of my water tank, ie when it starts sucking air there is still approx. 13% water sitting on the bottom, like a few others have noted as well. Hope this makes sense! 😊

…….and with the water pump?

Is this when you use the water pump or when you drain it? Mine also drains to 0, but with the water pump it starts sucking air at 13%. My grey and black tanks also show 0 after draining/dumping

John, is this when you use the water pump or when you drain it? Mine also drains to 0, but with the water pump it starts sucking air at 13%. My grey and black tanks show 0 after draining/dumping.

John I think this is it…. Oliver 2025 Rallies 1. Lake Guntersville State Park Guntersville, AL April 30 - May 4, 2025 2. Texas Oliver Rally 2025 is set at Lake Mineral Wells State Park Oct 21, 2025 - Oct 23, 2025

And another one sucking air at around 13%, I was thinking on some Ollies the suction tube is off the bottom of the tank, but then why the magic number of 13%, this has me thinking now!

Thanks all, mine has never registered 0 using the water pump, like I said it will start slurping around 13% and I have had it perfectly level, and the front slightly raised. Only when I drain the tank will it drain to 0. So I’m thinking maybe the suction tube is off the bottom of the tank. Next time (probably tomorrow/Thursday since it’s shower day) when it starts sucking air I’ll drain it and see how much water is left.

We always fill up the fresh water tank and use the water pump, even at campgrounds. I always have the front of the trailer slightly raised and still experiencing cavitation and it's always at approx. 13% per the SeeLevel monitor, same as @GarryandKristi! I'm hoping it's the SeeLevel monitor that's not accurate, however, sounds like when Garry drained the fresh water tank with front raised, approx. 5gal drained, that's pretty close to 13% of 32gal! I have not checked the water tank level at 13% or done any tests by doing the bucket test like John E Davies suggested, just wonderring what others are experiencing....what is your SeeLevel reading when fresh water tank is empty? **I also started a new thread here

We always fill up the fresh water tank and use the water pump, even at campgrounds. I always have the front of the trailer slightly raised and still experiencing cavitation and it's always at approx. 13% per the SeeLevel monitor, same as @GarryandKristi POST from HOW TO: Fresh water tank suction tube mod - NO SPIN WELDING REQUIRED. thread! I'm hoping it's the SeeLevel monitor that's not accurate, however, sounds like when Garry drained the fresh water tank with front raised, approx. 5gal drained, that's pretty close to 13% of 32gal! I have not checked the water tank level at 13% or done any tests by doing the bucket test, just wonderring what others are experiencing....what is your SeeLevel reading when fresh water tank is empty?

I agree John, heard some horror stories about issues with exchanged bottles!

Thanks John! 😊

@Galileo and @jd1923 on either/or both the Barker and Valterra, can the switch be toggled to open the valve partially, or is it a fully open/close deal?

@MAX Burner and @Ollie-Haus, very nice, sure this will draw a lot of attention, maybe start a new thread!

Nice, anybody out there with a Seabiscuit Oliver rear basket? I’m in the market for one and need some measurements. I’m at La Posa South and can swing by.

@SolitaryPine looks like your batteries are wired correctly. I have 2 x 320ah batteries in our 2023 Oliver and have seen the same thing you have on the phone app. I read following on the Lihtionics website: The SoC is a ‘metered reading’ from an electronic Hall Effect Shunt and is a count-down meter that is most accurate on its first cycle after calibration* but becomes less accurate over time. It simply counts amps-in and amps-out but some losses will occur. Being a metered value, it does not actually measure state of charge “real time” but instead “calculates” or estimates state of charge. -Explanation: *every two weeks, a full charge cycle in which the battery reaches 14.4 volts is required to trigger a recalibration of the internal Hall Effect Sensor shunt. When the battery exceeds 14.2 volts during charging, the SoC re-sets to 100%. (In order to fully charge a lithium ion battery, the DC loads may need to be reduced so the charge current exceeds the discharge current to allow a full battery charge.) -Why does the meter “drift” and lose accuracy over time? When a consumer is micro-cycling a battery via a series of multiple discharge cycles and has partial charge cycles from solar or alternator charging, the SoC meter loses accuracy, called “sensor drift” over a two week time period. This is also called ‘short charging’ as the battery never fills and the SoC meter does not reach recalibration voltages of 14.2(12 Volt Battery, 28.4 (24V), 53.25 (48.0) or 56.8 (51V) batteriesrespectively. I think as long as the voltages are the same your batteries are fine.

Time to resurrect this thread! 😊 Is there any way to support these flimsy wire shelves in the back? I can’t even have my 6 pack beverage of choice sitting in the middle of the shelf without the shelf bowing down and almost pulling the sides out. I was thinking of 3Ming a strip of plastic on the back, but I was hoping someone has come up with a fix.

We have a 2023 and same credit-card size remote.