rich.dev

lol...Yes I feel your pain, I'm in pretty good shape, but its hard these days maneuvering in tight spaces! Thank you, will definitely keep it in mind, what's the best route from Quartzsite to Prescott?

@Against The Wind I believe you should be good, my trailer is in storage, if nobody chimes in I can check for you tomorrow

Thanks Art. The peplink router and antenna works well. I haven’t done much with it, just tested the antenna where my trailer is stored and a difference of approx. 100gb download speed vs regular cell reception IN THAT AREA, could be different in other areas and I know if no cell reception the antenna means buggerall, hence the Starlink for boondocking spots with no cell reception. The Starlink is paused until we will need it so hopefully the 12V conversion and other mods I made for it will work, I’ll know in about a month when we will be down in Arizona.😊

Your 2022 should be the same as my 2023....Inverter breaker is under the street side bed, here's a pic, you can see the inverter breaker is "off" (red tab on bottom) vs the 12V MAIN breaker which is on.

Here’s what I do 1) Tug the 7 pin in between the fibreglass and aluminum beam, it’s a nice tight fit 2) bought kohree rv tire covers from Amazon, there are many options 3) I stuck green painters tape over the switch

John, I threw my OEM rain seal out yeterday, sorry didn't look at a part number. Will be doing same as you with 3/4" wide J drip rail next week.

Max BR1 Pro 5G

Well my install is done, following the advise of @jd1923 and install by @MAX Burner, I installed the Peplink router, Starlink 12V conversion and just for sh*ts and giggles a 12V fan in the closet. Also, I initially installed the Peplink 42 antenna to the awning with the included L bracket, but that only lasted about 130miles, the one hole in the plastic L bracket broke out and the bracket was only held on by the other screw! Anyway, that was before I decided to add an entry point for the Starlink to the roof for a later flatmount project. I currently have a pole mount and the idea was to add a Blue Seas Cable Clam hull penetration adjacent to the 7-pin cable like @MAX Burner did with his dc/dc install. After the Peplink L brack issue, I decided to go with a box on top of the roof with the Peplink antenna sitting on top, and an RJ45 waterproof connector on the side of the box for the Starlink cable quick connect, either for the roof mount, pole mount, or using the 25' cable on the ground. Here's the box on the roof, I used a Lifegard Aquatics R270577 1" slip bulkhead fitting to feed the 7 antenna cables and RJ45 cable through to inside the closet. Not pretty, and probably should've gone with a slighly lower profile box! ..and the RJ45 waterproof connector on the side of the box for the Starlink cable quick connect, either for the roof mount, pole mount, or using the 25' cable on the ground.. Peplink Router, Fan, 12v thermostat, Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block and EL6 DC/12V conversion kit for Starlink Gen 3 This install (inside the closet) took way longer than I was hoping for, it's a very tight space, and unless you have the shape/flexibility of a spaghetti, you will end up with scrapes and bruises in places you didn't know existed! If I had to do it all over again, I would attach/mount all the wires to the thermostat before mounting it to the wall like I did, and to make things worse, the Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block was mounted before the thermostat, so I had to basically go in blind to mount the wires to the bottom of the thermostat (not shown in my pictures, bottom of the thremostat is obscured by the top of the Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block), but this is what the thermostat looks like at the bottom, I had to get 18AWG wires into that blue connectors, it was literally a pain in the arse!

Yup unfortunately only available in 40’ from what I could find, so that’s what I ordered 40’!

I have the trim lok drip rail above the windows and Oliver sign on rear of trailer, very satisfied with it. The Trim Lok is 1/2” deep/wide, I discovered this 3/4” deep/wide drip rail that should work great for below the awning.

@Galway Girl thanks for the very informative post, sounds like this is an issue with the Truma water heater, if I remember correctly you guys had a similar issue before? Hope you guys enjoyed NS, we will be staying at a season spot just east of Truro when we return from Arizona next year April/May until October.

@jd1923 John another option is the Dexter 2400lbs 4-leaf spring part# PR4, on special now for $49

We are one of those, had a 2016 26' Flying Cloud with twin beds, inside layout and space obviously larger than our LEII. Loved the 26' BUT you just cannot compare quality and support from factory, AS is good but Oliver is MUCH better! Here is a good overview (Oliver vs AS) fom Ray Eklund (Oliver and AS owner).

Not sure where the gas shutoff is, but since the furnace is your heat source I would think the shutoff should be on not off, ie letting gas through.

@Gliddenwoods there might be better/more updated video and instructions, but this is what I have, a video clip from oliver and instructions from John E Davies

@Nan yes this question has been raised by many (including myself) before. In most RVs, the grey and black water tanks are separated but come together to flow through the same opening when it comes time to dump the tanks. So something as simple as adding THIS valve will allow the black and grey water tanks to be connected and for liquid to flow between the 2 tanks. However, with the Oliver valve configuration I don't believe that would be a possible option, unlesss you add one of those valterra blade valves right at the outlet. But also, if I remember correctly the grey water tank sits slightly lower than the black tank so that could be an issue as well (water going "uphill" from grey to black). Anyway, here are some threads with good reading material and possible solution for you.... Please let us know if you come up with another solution, I would be interested as well.

I’m looking for a short hose to draw water from my water bladder through the boondocking port into the fresh water tank, do you maybe have a link to the silicone hose?

Rich, you have what I was referring to as a late model HD beast! Not sure of our total payload, but with Chris, Charley and me inside and loaded with all tools and camping equipment, I weigh our TV at under 7400 LBS. Estimating 650 LBS hitch weight (10% of ready Oliver weight), and GWVR at 8800 LBS, it nets 750 LBS available payload. We can hit some flea markets along the way! 🤣 John, I went through the CAT scale in August when we went camping, fully loaded (like when we will go full time end of October) the numbers were: Truck: 8960lbs (gvwr: 10850lbs) Trailer: 6380lbs (gvwr: 7000lbs) Tongue weight: 700lbs WDH is the Anderson. I know I don’t really need it but it was installed for my Touareg before we upgraded to the Chev 2500HD so might as well use it. Interesting numbers with the Anderson and how weight is transferred from the tongue to the trailer and Chevy front axle.

LOL...sorry, have to blame it on siri, or my big sausage fingers!

Yah but I don't have the nice bells and whistles you have in your Nissan. My biggest regret is not getting the 360 degree trailer camera system!

My 2500HD Custom has 3658lbs payload! 😀

Mike, I see you went with the Swivel Leg Mount Adapters. The roof in that area is not curved much so was that just because you wanted the mount/dish higher up?

John, hoping this will help, error code 20 is covered here.

We have the Anderson levelers and they work great!

Thanks Steve, good to know, we also have a 2023 like you so I'll wait for the new one. Also,does the Highsierra faucet fit in the existing Oliver wall mount, or did you order the optional Highsierra wall mount?