rich.dev

LOL...sorry, have to blame it on siri, or my big sausage fingers!

Yah but I don't have the nice bells and whistles you have in your Nissan. My biggest regret is not getting the 360 degree trailer camera system!

My 2500HD Custom has 3658lbs payload! 😀

Mike, I see you went with the Swivel Leg Mount Adapters. The roof in that area is not curved much so was that just because you wanted the mount/dish higher up?

John, hoping this will help, error code 20 is covered here.

We have the Anderson levelers and they work great!

Thanks Steve, good to know, we also have a 2023 like you so I'll wait for the new one. Also,does the Highsierra faucet fit in the existing Oliver wall mount, or did you order the optional Highsierra wall mount?

Very nice installation Mike. I'm about to copy your and @MAX Burner's install for my Starlink cable and later DC to DC charger. Which blue sea cable gland did you use, is it the predrilled or THIS one?

What size Blue Seas Clam did you use? Same as you I want to run my Starlink Gen 3 cable and later DC to DC cables through here.

Great thanks! Will the new faucet fit in the existing Oliver wall mount, or do I have to order the optional Highsierra wall mount?

@ScottyGS Whichever 3/4 ton you decide to go with get the 360 camera/camera trailering package! I did not and biggest mistake!😔

Larry, any updates for us, how is the TRIO GEN 3 12V POWER SUPPLY working for you?

That access port is on the side of the curb side bed, you can also access that valve by removing the rear access panel above the curb side bed, check from time stamp 5:14 in this video clip.

Below pictures show a Truma Water Heater bypass valve currently set in winterization mode. You will need to turn the valve towards you to open the flow for cold water to enter the water heater chamber. ....and check from time stamp 5:14 in below video.

@ScubaRx Count us in, we will be in the area (Quartzite, Yuma, Imperial dam, Lake Havasu) arriving mid to end November staying until end March (ish).

We will be there from mid Nov to Feb/March next year, first time! 🙂

You are correct, just checked mine and sure enough it works on both! 😊

I might be wrong but this key is for the deadbolt not the electric lock?

..and same here

John, I just remembered I have Sensorpush wireless thermometers all over the Ollie, sorry did I say I’m still a spring chicken!😜 I checked and the temp under the street side bed got up to 40°C/104°F one day in July, while the inside was approx. 75-80°F!. I see the output is rated up to an ambient temperature of 104°F after which the current will be derated. So I will definitely have to look at ventilation in that area. I checked out your ventilation option, sorry if I missed it in the pictures but where did you mount the fan, is it the partition between the rear basement and below street side bed?

Yah kinda on the heavy side but I’m still a spring chicken so doable for now! 😜 I haven’t checked yet, plan is to monitor them for heat/cold when we’re in Arizona this winter. I might eventually install a fan for ventilation like @NCeagle did in this thread.

I added this 400W Renogy solar panel and Victron MPPT 100/30 CC, the CC was sized using this charge controller calculator from Explorist.Life/Nate. Pic of the stock 100/50 and 100/30 that I added for the 400W panel.

I do the same with the exact same tester. Once I know the plug is wired correctly I plug in and trust the onboard surge protector made by the same company And me……great minds think alike! 😊

Ok more experienced people will chip in but I’ll try and answer some of your questions…… Yes Yes you can, but if you have the solar package you have the Zamp solar port on the street side, your solar suitcase “should” have a SAE connector but with the Zamp port you will need a polarity reversing adaptor. The wire for the Zamp port is a 10ga wire capable of 30a. OTT use a 20A fuse, you can probably go with 2 x 200W external solar suitcases, but with onboard charge controllers there could be voltage drop based on wire size and length of wire. Here’s a nice video explaining voltage drop based on charge controller location relative to the batteries.

Here’s an interesting comparison between a 3/4 and 1 ton Silverado/GMC…what’s really the difference?