Low water pressure in bathroom

[Rivernerd]

7 hours ago, Lisa Rae said:

I was wondering if the length of the plumbing run to the bathroom is what is causing the pressure/flow to be low and the pump surge

For what it's worth, the extra length of the plumbing run to our Elite II bath does not noticeably affect the flow volume or pressure vs. the kitchen. 

In your shoes, I would be looking for some kind of blockage in the bath supply line, starting with possible calcium buildup over the past 8 years since Hull # 158 was built.

Edited March 22 by Rivernerd

[Geronimo John]

Decalcification of your entire system should be done typically every four years.  The hot water side will typically calcify faster than the  cold.  

Is there a flow difference between your hot water flow vs. cold water flow to the bathroom?

GJ

[William SJT]

I too have had low pressure in the bathroom when I have not fully depressed the switch on the faucet from shower to spray. Perhaps you have an issue with that switch not fully engaging.

[Lisa Rae]

@William SJT I noticed the issue with the switch and push hard on it but that doesn't help.  I did find however when the water pressure is lower it is harder to switch the spray and have it stay on the one you are trying to select.    

[jd1923]

We were out on a short camp last week. My wife commented the diverter switch was difficult to push (I only took outdoor showers). When measuring flow rates, as I suggested above, you could remove the shower head and kitchen faucet head to measure, eliminating the restriction of the head itself. You can do the gal/sec measurement with and without the faucet head and that can be very telling. I always remove the restrictors in EVERY home or RV faucet. 

Thank you very much bs.gov for adding restrictors into every imaginable plumbing device. Restriction, after flow restriction adds up cumulatively, making a 3 GPM pump in our Olivers produce 1.5 GPM at their very best!

I used to travel a bit for business, usually checking in on Sundays for 4 nights to teach a corporate training class. Standard toolset in my suitcase were pliers, a pick, etc. to get a good shower for 4 nights. As a decent citizen, I put the hotels' plumbing system back as was, prior to check-out. But what a pain!

[MAX Burner]

We had a similar issue with both our toilet (low flow) and the bathroom sink faucet (very low flow) last year.  After clearing out each of the diffuser screens - the flow rate came back up to the same level as the kitchen sink.  It appeared that there was an accumulation of calcification particles in the screens.  

Try removing the diffuser from the faucet and examining the screen to remove any debris.  Easy fix, for us at least...

Edited March 25 by MAX Burner
fixed a typo

[Ty J]

Just for Giggles , do you have another water pump and accumulator you could switch onto the system. I have a water issue in one of my campers, changed out both of them and situation seemed to be resolved. Farthest sinks from pump were low pressure. The pump was just weak? I have even had new ones weak off the get go. 

[jd1923]

I'm hoping those of you with hull #s >1000 have better water pumps installed by OTT. There are 100s of RV water pump options today! Eight (8) years ago we got this OEM installed pump (pic 1) and with my recent upgrade I installed this instead (pic 2). Retail it's $80 vs $200 and at OEM cost it's likely $40 more which anybody paying $100K larger for a high-end TT should get. Penny-wise and pound-foolish, as they say. 

[Lisa Rae]

3 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

We had a similar issue with both our toilet (low flow) and the bathroom sink faucet (very low flow) last year.  After clearing out each of the diffuser screens - the flow rate came back up to the same level as the kitchen sink.  It appeared that there was an accumulation of calcification particles in the screens.  

@MAX Burner What did you do to increase the flow/pressure to the toilet?  I'm not sure what you mean by the diffuser screens? 

[John Welte]

On 3/20/2024 at 7:22 PM, Jason Foster said:

In the video you included, I have the same water pressure in the bathroom as you have in your kitchen sink, so definitely not normal.  You might have kink in a hose somewhere.

My water pressure in the bathroom is the same as the kitchen.

John

[MAX Burner]

9 hours ago, Lisa Rae said:

I'm not sure what you mean by the diffuser screens? 

On the rear of our Dometic toilet - where the water connection is, there's an integrated washer/screen at the fitting (where the arrow is pointing below).  This screen can get clogged and reduce the flow/pressure to the toilet.  

The same goes with most faucets.  You can remove the screen at the faucet where the water comes out - clear it of debris, and your flow is usually restored.

[Rivernerd]

1 hour ago, MAX Burner said:

 You can remove the screen at the faucet where the water comes out -

Also known as an aerator, when referring to faucets.

[Lisa Rae]

@MAX BurnerThank you for the picture, I did not know there was a screen there.  Mine has a filter connected to that but I bet there is still a filter there I need to clean.  I have done the filter/aerators in the faucets and so far I think what has made the biggest difference is cleaning the pressure regulators followed by replacing the aerator and or shower head.

Edited March 26 by Lisa Rae

[Townesw]

I got better flow everywhere in the Oliver when I switched from this

 

to this

 

 

https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/products/263a-lf-regulator-stainless?_pos=1&_sid=7382cb9a5&_ss=r

Edited March 25 by Townesw

[Lisa Rae]

@TowneswI am assuming you replaced the internal pressure regulator with a regular tubing/plumbing? 

8 hours ago, Townesw said:

I got better flow everywhere in the Oliver when I switched from this

 

[jd1923]

On 3/25/2024 at 1:45 PM, Townesw said:

I got better flow everywhere in the Oliver when I switched from this... to this.

Thank you @Lisa Rae and @Townesw!
So, when I get a chance to crawl into the rear basement...

I will clean the water backflow preventers (aka check valves, a required component to achieve plumbing system pressure, allowing the water pump to cut-off/stop) on both lines and REMOVE the pressure regulators on BOTH lines, and instead use an external pressure regulator. Or perhaps, I could find an alternative to integrate an adjustable pressure regulator internal to the Oliver which of course would be preferred.

Love the fact that in the pic, we see pressure regulated to just under 60 PSI, not 40 PSI, anywhere near the OEM regulator. 60 PSI is a good number, 40 PSI is NOT! We run 60 PSI in our 45-year-old home with copper plumbing, sweat solder joints. A modern PEX plumbing system can function up to 100 PSI. Thank about this.

 

Edited March 27 by SeaDawg

[Geronimo John]

On 3/23/2024 at 5:28 PM, jd1923 said:

I used to travel a bit for business, usually checking in on Sundays for 4 nights to teach a corporate training class. Standard toolset in my suitcase were pliers, a pick, etc. to get a good shower for 4 nights. As a decent citizen, I put the hotels' plumbing system back as was, prior to check-out. But what a pain!

OMG there actually are others of us doing that.  YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GJ

[Geronimo John]

16 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

On the rear of our Dometic toilet - where the water connection is, there's an integrated washer/screen at the fitting (where the arrow is pointing below).  This screen can get clogged and reduce the flow/pressure to the toilet.  

I wish I had that problem.  Seems the 25 cent flush valve shaft of the Dometic toilet fails frequently enough that I don't need to clean the screen.   And they will not support their product wit repair parts.  $300+ for a new toilet vs 25 cents.  No love for that MFG on this end.  I pray OTT votes with our feet......  

GJ

[Townesw]

@Lisa Rae @jd1923 I have hull 313. I have 2 check valves under the basement floor just under the door. This is a picture that I made in September 2019 of mine when a few Olivers were having problems with split check valves.

I’ve not found any of the brass Camco “pressure regulators” down there. The plumbing diagram shows the check valves but doesn’t show any “pressure regulators”.
 

Oliver provided a brass Camco “pressure regulator” (or flow restrictor) for use externally to limit the incoming water pressure and I used it when our trailer was new. We noticed that when we turned on any water that the flow would be strong and then it would quickly slow. I did some reading on the internet that lead me to replace the “pressure regulator” with a diaphragm type pressure regulator. 
 

Video from July 2019, flow with Camco pressure regulator in place at the city water faucet (hose bib).

Video from July 2019, Watts diaphragm type pressure regulator in place at the city water faucet (hose bib). 

I am the kind of person that likes to know how things work and I have thought about cutting the flow restrictor (Camco “pressure regulator”) open to see how it works but, it is my backup in case my Watts regulator fails. (Boy Scout motto: Be Prepared). All of my information and suggestions come with the added warning that what worked in my case may not work for you. 

Edited March 26 by Townesw

[Geronimo John]

9 hours ago, Townesw said:

Video from July 2019, flow with restrictor in place at the faucet 

The flow reduction may be caused by the pressure in the accumulator depleting down to the pressure of the activated pump.

Worth a consideration.

GJ

[Townesw]

28 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

The flow reduction may be caused by the pressure in the accumulator depleting down to the pressure of the activated pump.

Worth a consideration.

GJ

@Geronimo JohnThat water is not pumped water. Those videos are with trailer hooked to city water through a hose bib on the house. One video with water flowing through a brass Camco “pressure regulator”,  which I call a flow restrictior, and the other video with water flowing through a Watts pressure regulator. 

Edited March 26 by Townesw

[jd1923]

10 hours ago, Townesw said:

I have hull 313. I have 2 check valves under the basement floor just under the door...

I’ve not found any of the brass Camco flow restrictors down there. The plumbing diagram shows the check valves but doesn’t show any “pressure regulators”...

I've seen the schematic showing check valve only before. Yours is that way and easier to reach in your 2018 model. Mine is exactly like @Lisa Rae's and we both have 2016 hulls. Two devices on each line, backflow check-valve AND pressure regulator at the REAR of the basement instead. 

I found out the 40-50 PSI regulator is a RV standard of old. See this item that Amazon calls "Overall Pick" with 21K reviews: Amazon.com: Camco Camper/RV Water Pressure Regulator | Protects RV Kitchen Small Appliances, Plumbing & Hoses | Reduces RV Water Pressure to Safe and Consistent 40-50 PSI | Drinking Water Safe (40055) : Automotive

One of my many summer projects will be to remove the internal 40-50 PSI regulators, clean and replace the backflow/check-valves and get an external adjustable pressure regulator like you showed. Wow, this one is very expensive at $280, but again I don't want the $11 40-50 PSI unit, or one of the dozens of China-made adjustable units on Amazon for $30 +/-. Is yours made in the U.S.A.?

[Townesw]

@jd1923 That same regulator package, F3004 from RV Water Filter Store, was $138, shipped, in July 2019. I don’t know where it was made.  

 

Google “Camco water pressure regulator vs. diaphragm water pressure regulator” and read some of the discussions that pop up. 
 

This is one that I found:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/water-pressure-regulators-255560.html

We primarily use full hookups, so this isn’t going to help if you’re using the pump. 

 

[Lisa Rae]

@jd1923 & @Townesw I think i will remove the two pressure regulators from inside the camper (since OTT did in 2018) in favor of  using an adjustable one on the hose going to the camper.  I think that will be the best solution because I think a large part of my problem came from those getting clogged up.  I'll try and replace them this weekend and test it, along with cleaning the filter/screen on the bottom of the toilet as @MAX Burner suggested.

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Townesw said:

This is one that I found: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/water-pressure-regulators-255560.html

Great thread here! This post is key, from senior IRV2 member TeJay:
"The cheap RV regulators don't regulate the pressure they just restrict the flow. That will in effect reduce the chance of over pressurizing your system if a CG has high water pressure. You do have a reduction of pressure but also a reduction of flow. With a true regulator you don't lose the flow or volume."

Thank you, Bill & Martha! Yes, remove the cheap restrictors and purchase a quality pressure regulator. @Lisa Rae just came to this conclusion as she wrote above. I will also delete the installed restrictors.

Lisa, you may consider removing the (winterizing/boondocking) brass water valves that restrict the flow to 1/4". I replaced them with motorized valves, or you could use manual valves that are 1/2" or at least 3/8" ID which is the true ID of 1/2" PEX connectors. 

Now I see why they only promise the 40-50 PSI range, since they restrict flow and not pressure. This is also the reason why my upgraded water pump provides better flow and pressure pulling from the Fresh Tank, vs when we connect the City Water inlet at the campsite.

We still have the bathroom faucet issue, i.e. less flow than the kitchen faucet. There must be something inherent to the plumbing of our 2016 hulls, since many newer model owners do not have this complaint. I don't believe it's mineral buildup, since that would be everywhere, and I measured without the faucet heads installed. You can't "kink" PEX, but more length and multiple restricting connectors could do it. Also in ours, the plumbing in the vanity makes way more noise than our quiet new water pump. After we finish our travel this season, I will open the bathroom vanity and follow the water lines (and the furnace ducting) from the pump at the curbside bed to the wet bath!