Tip: Quick and Accurate Adjustment of Chain Bolt on Anderson Hitch

[Boilermaker Chemist]

Our new-to-us OE2 came without the Anderson hitch so I had one installed at the factory. First let me say that I was very impressed with their excellent service. And the free, on-site campground was a very convenient plus.

After hitch installation, Jason told me that on my Tundra the chain bolts would likely need to be loosened every time that I unhitched to provide enough slack to remove the sway control plate. This is a bit of a PIA and is just one of the many reasons why I dislike this hitch (I feel another post forthcoming). Anyway, he said to just count the number of threads on the bolts to get back to the same tension on the chain.

I found that counting the threads was just another little annoyance and decided to make a thickness gage instead. After measuring the length of the exposed chain bolt, I cut a piece of ¾” Schedule 40 PVC pipe to the exact same length. The ID of this pipe just fits over the bolt and I can easily feel with my finger when the edge of the pipe is even with the bolt. I believe that this is easier and likely more accurate than counting threads. I hope this simple tip this will help others with the same issue.

Now if anyone has found a way to attach a WDH with sway bars to their Ollie I would love to hear about it!

[topgun2]

13 hours ago, Boilermaker Chemist said:

Jason told me that on my Tundra the chain bolts would likely need to be loosened every time that I unhitched to provide enough slack to remove the sway control plate. This is a bit of a PIA and is just one of the many reasons why I dislike this hitch (I feel another post forthcoming). Anyway, he said to just count the number of threads on the bolts to get back to the same tension on the chain.

Be sure to look at every YouTube vid you can find in order to learn ALL the ways you can get the Andersens attached - there are several.  

Once you are familiar with a variety of ways then you will have a better idea of which to use in virtually any circumstance you find.

Bill

p.s.  I do like your "gauge" but a half a thread one way or the other really isn't going to make that much difference.

Edited September 19 by topgun2

[topgun2]

You might also be interested in getting one of THESE hitch pins from Tractor Supply or Harbor Freight.  The "handle" makes them much easier to grab.

Bill

[Steve Morris]

12 hours ago, Boilermaker Chemist said:

Now if anyone has found a way to attach a WDH with sway bars to their Ollie I would love to hear about it!

Lots of ways to do it out there, but most common recommended is jacking up the front of the trailer (also lifting the truck) to provide slack. I did this for a while, but disliked the extra work the jack needed to do to lift the ass-end of the truck. Instead, I introduce slack by overlapping the hitch and ball. I haven't adjusted the nut since Chris Scarff did at the rally in May 2023.

When you are hitching up, back the truck under the ball like normal. Then, back up another inch to inch and a half until the nose of the hitch almost touches the ball mount.
Now you can easily slip the whale tail on without making any adjustments. It even works at odd angles (within reason) where other methods require dead straight.

Unhooking is the opposite: with the hitch still on the ball, open the bail, raise the tongue until the trailer until the ball falls out, back up an inch or so, and drop off the whale tail. Done!

Other than the time I needed to hook up almost 90° to the trailer, this method has worked every time. And no extra strain on the jack!

I hope that helps

[Boilermaker Chemist]

37 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:

Lots of ways to do it out there, but most common recommended is jacking up the front of the trailer (also lifting the truck) to provide slack. I did this for a while, but disliked the extra work the jack needed to do to lift the ass-end of the truck. Instead, I introduce slack by overlapping the hitch and ball. I haven't adjusted the nut since Chris Scarff did at the rally in May 2023.

When you are hitching up, back the truck under the ball like normal. Then, back up another inch to inch and a half until the nose of the hitch almost touches the ball mount.
Now you can easily slip the whale tail on without making any adjustments. It even works at odd angles (within reason) where other methods require dead straight.

Unhooking is the opposite: with the hitch still on the ball, open the bail, raise the tongue until the trailer until the ball falls out, back up an inch or so, and drop off the whale tail. Done!

Other than the time I needed to hook up almost 90° to the trailer, this method has worked every time. And no extra strain on the jack!

I hope that helps

I tried the jacking up the rear end of the truck approach since that's the way it worked for my Reese WDH on our Micro Minnie.  But for some reason, could never get enough slack that way.  Thanks for sharing this other approach.  I will definitely give it a try.

[Boilermaker Chemist]

1 hour ago, topgun2 said:

You might also be interested in getting one of THESE hitch pins from Tractor Supply or Harbor Freight.  The "handle" makes them much easier to grab.

Bill

Thanks, I will definitely pick one of those up.  But I will go with the Curt version from TSC, I tend to avoid HF stuff for anything safety-related.

Edited September 19 by Boilermaker Chemist

[Rivernerd]

Replacing some of the extra chain links required to connect the Anderson weight distribution hitch to an Oliver Elite II with turnbuckles is another method that eases whale tail installation.  I carry Robogrips in my Tundra to enable easy turning of the turnbuckles.  The turnbuckles allow me to adjust chain tension without getting on the ground under the trailer.  l generally favor Steve Morris' "move the tow vehicle" approach detailed in his post above, but there have been occasions when I was glad I had installed the turnbuckles.

See the posts starting with one by John Davies dated November 26, 2022 from the below thread:

 

[Boilermaker Chemist]

5 hours ago, topgun2 said:

You might also be interested in getting one of THESE hitch pins from Tractor Supply or Harbor Freight.  The "handle" makes them much easier to grab.

Bill

Thanks again for the suggestion, ordered the Curt 45804 version from HomeDepot with free shipping.  Hopefully one less annoyance with the Anderson hitch.

[topgun2]

1 hour ago, Boilermaker Chemist said:

Thanks again for the suggestion, ordered the Curt 45804 version from HomeDepot with free shipping.  Hopefully one less annoyance with the Anderson hitch.

You're most welcome.

Try to keep that pin clean and have a light coat of lube (WD40) on it.  That will make the in and out easier. 

I think you mentioned that you have had experience with other weight distribution hitches - I did with rigs prior to getting the Oliver and as I got used to dealing with the Andersen I've found that it certainly is no more difficult and perhaps its somewhat easier.  At least there are no heavy, dirty, greasy bars to deal with and the Andersen is all but silent.

Bill

Edited September 19 by topgun2

[Mike and Carol]

I agree these methods work.  I haven’t used an Andersen in almost 4 years, but when we did the raising of the hitch with the jack worked well.  I never needed to adjust the chains once I got them right.  I used the Andersen on 3 different trucks, each needed a bit of adjustment to be right.  Mike

[Boilermaker Chemist]

I would love to have a 3/4 ton truck and be done with the hitch but our garage is under the house and there isn't enough headroom.  In fact, the Tundra was the only half ton with tow package that wasn't too tall to fit.

Edited September 19 by Boilermaker Chemist

[Rivernerd]

18 hours ago, Boilermaker Chemist said:

the Tundra was the only half ton with tow package that wasn't too tall to fit.

I know the Tundra is classified by the automotive industry as a "1/2 ton", but my 2019 SR5 double cab standard bed Tundra with tow package has 13.9" and 13.6" disc brakes, a 5.7L V8 engine, and almost  3/4 ton (1480 lbs.) of payload capacity.  With the Anderson WD hitch, that's close enough to "3/4 ton" for my purposes.

[katanapilot]

17 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:

I know the Tundra is classified by the automotive industry as a "1/2 ton", but my 2019 SR5 double cab standard bed Tundra with tow package has 13.9" and 13.6" disc brakes, a 5.7L V8 engine, and almost  3/4 ton (1480 lbs.) of payload capacity.  With the Anderson WD hitch, that's close enough to "3/4 ton" for my purposes.

Add Wilwood front (6 piston) and rear (4 piston) brakes, OME suspension and a Magnuson supercharger and it's even closer! 😉

[Boilermaker Chemist]

I ordered my Tundra from the factory as 2WD to max out the payload (1540 before ARE cap addition).  On our last last trip out I was only 20 lbs under GVWR.  I gotta believe that a 3/4 ton truck would have a much higher payload.  At the risk of hijacking my own post, any 250/2500 owners out there want to chime in?
😀

[Boilermaker Chemist]

Quote

 

@Rivernerd BTW have you ever checked your transmission temperature when you are towing?  For some reason Toyota eliminated their cooler from the 2019-2021 models.

[jd1923]

1 minute ago, Boilermaker Chemist said:

I ordered my Tundra from the factory as 2WD to max out the payload (1540 before ARE cap addition).  On our last last trip out I was only 20 lbs under GVWR.  I gotta believe that a 3/4 ton truck would have a much higher payload.  At the risk of hijacking my own post, any 250/2500 owners out there want to chime in? 
😀

Sure, 2WD is the way to go with a TV, more payload and less climb getting up into the cab. Older 2500 here, not like the HD beasts they market today. User manual states use WDH for hitch weight over 500 LBS. My truck has the Dodge OEM "Helper Springs" too, but they do not engage soon enough on a light trailer.

I've tried w/o the Anderson and it rides much better with, less bounce at the hitch, steering feels more grounded. I tried many ways to mount as been suggested. If jack height and being an inch back does not work, I just loosen the chain nuts. Then I drive out of the campsite to straight clean pavement and get down there with a 1/2" drive ratchet and quickly tighten to 5-6 threads showing (I can feel the right torque) before getting on the highway.

[rich.dev]

2 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

and almost  3/4 ton (1480 lbs.) of payload capacity.

My 2500HD Custom has 3658lbs payload! 😀

[Boilermaker Chemist]

1 minute ago, rich.dev said:

My 2500HD Custom has 3658lbs payload! 😀

Now I have truck envy 🤪

[rich.dev]

5 minutes ago, Boilermaker Chemist said:

Now I have truck envy 🤪

Yah but I don't have the nice bells and whistles you have in your Nissan. My biggest regret is not getting the 360 degree trailer camera system!  

[Boilermaker Chemist]

1 minute ago, rich.dev said:

Yah but I don't have the nice bells and whistles you have in your Nissan. My biggest regret is not getting the 360 degree trailer camera system!  

I might have to report you, calling my Toyota Tundra a Nissan is offensive! 🤪

[rich.dev]

40 minutes ago, Boilermaker Chemist said:

I might have to report you, calling my Toyota Tundra a Nissan is offensive! 🤪

LOL...sorry, have to blame it on siri, or my big sausage fingers! 

[jd1923]

42 minutes ago, rich.dev said:

My 2500HD Custom has 3658lbs payload! 😀

Rich, you have what I was referring to as a late model HD beast! Not sure of our total payload, but with Chris, Charley and me inside and loaded with all tools and camping equipment, I weigh our TV at under 7400 LBS. Estimating 650 LBS hitch weight (10% of ready Oliver weight), and GWVR at 8800 LBS, it nets 750 LBS available payload. We can hit some flea markets along the way! 🤣

[rich.dev]

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

4 hours ago, rich.dev said:

 

Rich, you have what I was referring to as a late model HD beast! Not sure of our total payload, but with Chris, Charley and me inside and loaded with all tools and camping equipment, I weigh our TV at under 7400 LBS. Estimating 650 LBS hitch weight (10% of ready Oliver weight), and GWVR at 8800 LBS, it nets 750 LBS available payload. We can hit some flea markets along the way! 🤣

John, I went through the CAT scale in August when we went camping, fully loaded (like when we will go full time end of October) the numbers were:

Truck: 8960lbs (gvwr: 10850lbs)
Trailer: 6380lbs (gvwr: 7000lbs)
Tongue weight: 700lbs

WDH is the Anderson. I know I don’t really need it but it was installed for my Touareg before we upgraded to the Chev 2500HD so might as well use it. Interesting numbers with the Anderson and how weight is transferred from the tongue to the trailer and Chevy front axle. 

Edited September 20 by rich.dev

[Rivernerd]

22 hours ago, Boilermaker Chemist said:

@Rivernerd BTW have you ever checked your transmission temperature when you are towing?  For some reason Toyota eliminated their cooler from the 2019-2021 models.

Yes, I have.  My 2008 Tundra 5.7L with tow package has a factory transmission cooler, and I was unhappy when I learned that my 2019 5.7L with tow package did not.

After following a thread on this forum addressing the topic, I bought a Veepeak OBD II scanner that reports via Bluetooth to my Android phone.  Towing our Hull #1291 up a long hill on a 100-degree day in August 2023 our transmission pan temp got up to 263 F.  Although Toyota claims that up to 300 F is "o.k." with proprietary Toyota transmission fluid, a (2020, I think) Tundra owner who posted on this forum repeatedly overheated, and then blew his transmission, towing an Elite II across the USA in summer temps. 

I then considered replacing the Tundra with a 3/4 ton GMC.  But last winter, I ultimately chose to buy and install an aftermarket transmission cooler in the Tundra, as I still love Toyota reliability.

In July 2024 towing our Oliver up that same hill on a 98-degree day, the transmission pan temp maxed out at 232 degrees F.   We are keeping the modified 2019 Tundra for now.

Edited September 21 by Rivernerd

[Boilermaker Chemist]

@Rivernerd

I had a very similar experience. Just like you, legendary reliability was one of the main reasons that I bought the Toyota. Having already read comments on the Tundras.com forum, I was aware of this potential issue. So soon after I bought the new Tundra, I did some testing and confirmed elevated transmission temperatures while towing upgrade. I purchased a complete installation kit from GenuineCoolingSystems.com and had a local transmission shop install the auxiliary cooler.

The true test came when we drove N on I-17 from Phoenix towards Flagstaff on a hot day in June. There is a steady and steep (4-5%) grade for about 7 miles starting near Black Canyon City, exit 244. A sign along the way states “AVOID OVERHEATING TURN OFF AIR CONDITIONER NEXT 5 MILES”. With the ambient temperature at 100 degrees, we passed several overheated trucks and cars while towing our fully loaded trailer at 55 mph with the AC ON. The transmission temperature never exceeded 206.  So I am obviously very pleased with that modification to my truck.