Water inlets and outdoor shower - shut off valve

[ScottyGS]

I know this has been discussed on the forum but not sure if anyone has done this or if it can be done.

Been thinking about the water inlets and the outdoor shower controls.  Is there a way to put a shut off valve to the lines going to them?  Would it be practical? 

I am thinking that by shutting off water to the points going out of the trailer and draining it would eliminate those parts of the plumbing system from freeze damage.  The rest of it would be kept warm either by the furnace (while camping) or by running a heater inside the trailer with the hatches open (while stored)   We have a garage that rarely gets below freezing in winter but it could if outside temps really dropped.  Then I would just run the heater over night.  

TIA, 

Scotty

[topgun2]

2 hours ago, ScottyGS said:

I know this has been discussed on the forum but not sure if anyone has done this or if it can be done.

Yes - this has been done by more than one owner (not me - yet).

2 hours ago, ScottyGS said:

Been thinking about the water inlets and the outdoor shower controls.  Is there a way to put a shut off valve to the lines going to them?  Would it be practical? 

Yes - there is a way to place shut off valves in each of the lines mentioned.  

Being "practical" is in the eyes of the person doing the work or paying the bill for having the work performed for you.

Good luck with your plumbing skills and working in tight quarters!

Bill

[SeaDawg]

We thought about this year's ago, when we blew out our outdoor shower by not winterizing early enough in nc. Never got around to it.

If you do this, please share details and photos. Many of us rarely use the outdoor shower. The shutoff would be helpful, I think.

[Ronbrink]

16 hours ago, ScottyGS said:

I am thinking that by shutting off water to the points going out of the trailer and draining it would eliminate those parts of the plumbing system from freeze damage.

I would consider a shutoff valve with a drain vent like this SharkBite; available in 1/2 and 3/4”.

 

[Rivernerd]

3 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

I would consider a shutoff valve with a drain vent like this SharkBite; available in 1/2 and 3/4”.

Two of these 1/2" Sharkbite valves with drains (one for hot, one for cold) plus a PVC pipe cutter, should be all that is needed. Depending on how much room you find around the Pex lines, I recommend making just one cut and trying to insert the Sharkbite fitting on both sides of that cut.  If there is room, that is best.  If some of the Pex must be cut out because there is not room otherwise, cut no more than 1/2 the length of the new valve out of the Pex pipe, to ensure enough Pex remains for insertion into both ends of the Sharkbite fitting.

FWIW, when we camped with Hull #1291 with outside ambient temps of 9 degrees F, the lowest temp in the bottom of the hull was near the outside faucet.  So, be sure there is no water left in the flexible hose to the shower handle as well.

[jd1923]

The drain vent is a good extra. Without it use compressed air (<40 PSI) to remove water from lines prior to closing valves. Insulate shower opening or trunk door.

[ScubaRx]

I re-plumbed the entire rear end of the trailer. I straightened out some lines and rerouted others so that they are neater than they were when our trailer was built in 2014. While I was at it, I put electric valves, that are controlled with a switch in the basement, in both the hot and cold lines going to the outdoor shower. I also ran an airline, that can be controlled with a valve in the basement, to these two valves so that the plumbing of the entire trailer can be blown free of water. The airlines also run to both wheelwells where an air fitting is available for airing up the tires. This entire air system can be supplied via the onboard compressor mounted in the back of the Silverado.

Edited November 5 by ScubaRx