Accessories unplug themselves…

[Galileo]

On a whim I occasionally press the “Battery” button on the see-level display. Usually I see 13 point something. 

Last night, plugged into shore power with all AC accessories working and no error messages, with the furnace fan running, I pressed it and it read “12.3. I thought - seems low, but don’t panic. When the furnace fan shut off, I pressed it again and it had come up to 12.4. Still low, but not knowing what strategy the battery charger uses, I let it go for the moment.

About six in the morning, a memory of this happening previously came to mind. That time I pulled out my Fluke 77 and checked the actual voltage at a few cigarette lighter sockets and they all agreed with the see-level display. I checked the battery charger breaker and it was on. I pulled the cushion off the rear dinette seat and lifted the access panel…

Battery charger unplugged.

Sure enough, when I arose and looked - same thing.

That’s twice for the battery charger.

First season out, the Norcold fridge wouldn’t automatically switch to AC when we arrived at our campground with hookups. It stayed on LP mode. I pulled the outside lower cover and found zero voltage at the AC connection. About the time that Oliver service got back to me, I had found the AC plug under the galley cabinets had come unplugged.

I think that’s when I asked myself “why isn’t this hardwired?” 

Now I’m asking the same about the battery charger…

Only reason I can think of is “Manufacturer’s warranty”.

So - check those plugs!

Anybody address this issue?

[Snackchaser]

Galileo,

Plugs should have a fairly tight fit in the receptacle and they will not easily fall out.  However, we have all run across worn out, or poor quality, receptacles that the plug will not stay in.  When a plug is loose in the receptacle, it means that the electrical connection is also loose!  It’s one of the most common causes of fire.  Loose connections have a high resistance that create heat, and/or arcing.

It’s best to replace the receptacle.  Otherwise, bend the plug prongs outward just a bit to improve the connection and the holding friction.  Hardwiring is okay, but it shouldn't be needed.

Cheers!  Geoff

[Galileo]

I’d lean towards “poor quality” as these are the “new” receptacles & plugs supplied by Oliver and the component manufacturer. 

I don’t think that the familiar 3-prong grounded outlet that we all know and love was intended for use in mobile applications. At least not ones hidden under drawers or access panels for items that aren’t often unplugged. Sure, if you wanna plug your Keurig machine on the countertop on your RV, go for it - but that’s a completely different application.

I agree 105 to 125 volts, I mean percent that loose connections are dangerous. I’d prefer not to resort to bending prongs.

I guess I -could- replace the receptacle under the sink with a new, name-brand, specification grade outlet - but that’s still a halfway solution. I think a more craftsmanlike repair would be to eliminate the receptacle and plug and “hard wire” it in. That’s really how installed - as opposed to portable - appliances should be wired. (Look at the furnace or AC in your home.)

The battery charger is a different story. The outlet it’s plugged into is a snap-in receptacle on the back side of the A/C breaker panel. There’s a 10-12” unsupported run of power cord that looks designed to pull the plug out with jouncing down a bumpy road. 

Anyway - just questioning the rational and wisdom of the power connections on these two items. I guess I’ll have to expect more failures from similar connections that I haven’t experienced yet. As it was, I found two or three 1/4” spade disconnects on the back of the D/C panel that had worked themselves halfway off already.

Luckily, none of these failures have been mission-critical. “Hohenwald, we have a problem……”

[Galileo]

In just a routine look under the aft dinette seat, I discovered the battery charger plug to be halfway unplugged yet again. 

Two thoughts:

1. Add checking this to a periodic maintenance checklist.

2. It’s about time for my fridge to stop working in A/C…

[jd1923]

12 minutes ago, Galileo said:

Add checking this to a periodic maintenance checklist.

I'd say, this is not such a good idea. Go back to your post from last year and review Geoff's suggestion @Snackchaser. Time to fix the issue vs. adding a checklist item.

On 2/26/2025 at 11:46 AM, Galileo said:

the Norcold fridge wouldn’t automatically switch to AC when we arrived at our campground with hookups. It stayed on LP mode.

Not sure re the Norcold fridge controls, but on our Dometic when in LP mode it will stay there by design. When you select "Auto" it will switch to AC if available, or DC when not plugged in.

[Galileo]

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

I'd say, this is not such a good idea. Go back to your post from last year and review Geoff's suggestion @Snackchaser. Time to fix the issue vs. adding a checklist item.

Not sure re the Norcold fridge controls, but on our Dometic when in LP mode it will stay there by design. When you select "Auto" it will switch to AC if available, or DC when not plugged in.

Point well-taken on the replacing the socket and/or plug - and if this one were old or worn I’d agree. However, since this one hasn’t been subjected to multiple plugging/unplugging cycles - which would cause one to be loose or weak - I doubt replacing it would yield any better results. Short of cutting off the plug and hard-wiring it to the source, replacing it would be unlikely to solve the problem or eliminate the need to check on it periodically. Additionally, though the receptacle the fridge plugs into IS a standard duplex outlet, the one the battery charger plugs into is a special one that that snaps into the back of the A/C breaker box, and probably doesn’t have a higher-quality replacement available. Only cutting off the plug and hard wiring it will truly “fix” the issue. Anything less is just a band aid.

IMHO - having installed items like the battery charger and fridge plug into a household socket is a pretty cheesy way to handle power on a vehicle subject to vibration and shock as part of its everyday mission. Kind of akin to using household Romex on a boat. (Which I’ve seen done - but not by professionals or knowledgeable laymen.)

And correct on the “auto” mode on the Norcold fridge switching to A/C when available. It normally does this. When it stayed in LP mode even with shore power connected is when I went into trouble-shooting mode. The issue was not my failure to understand or select the operating mode I desired.

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Galileo said:

Point well-taken on the replacing the socket and/or plug

Not replace, but repair the connection so it cannot come off again.

Is it for the inverter/charger?

So a 110V plug like the fridge? If so, it’s not the plug but a cheap outlet receptacle. That could be replaced with a Leviton or a quality outlet not Made in you know where!

Cheesy, yes! OTT wired the outputs on our inverter using a residential junction box and wire nuts! 🤣

Hardwire? I’d do that in a heartbeat! 😎

Edited Monday at 11:16 PM by jd1923

[johnwen]

6 hours ago, Galileo said:

And correct on the “auto” mode on the Norcold fridge switching to A/C when available. It normally does this. When it stayed in LP mode even with shore power connected is when I went into trouble-shooting mode. The issue was not my failure to understand or select the operating mode I desired.

My experience....with our 2022 LE2 Norcold I left my setting on auto while boondocking and my LP ran out.  The result was an automatic switch to DC while we were away for 2 days.  On a good note,  with help from Steve L. and JD I got to throw away my 4 6v agms and switch to 600 ahs worth of Epoch Lithuims. Albeit an expensive lesson I couldn't be happier that it happened :)

[Ronbrink]

17 hours ago, Galileo said:

In just a routine look under the aft dinette seat, I discovered the battery charger plug to be halfway unplugged yet again. 

Many have secured the Norcold AC plug to duplex outlet under the sink with a tie-wrap and perhaps same could be done with the charger plug, as well. However, that may not be as easy due to the ‘snap in’ feature of that inlet, as described. Perhaps the “10-12” unsupported run of power cord” could be secured with a tie-wrap in such a manner as to better secure that connection. In looking at my 2020 OLEll, it appears to be hardwired into the AC panel box with a typical clamp style strain relief fastener and likely hardwired to a main breaker.

Edited 21 hours ago by Ronbrink

[Galileo]

3 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

Many have secured the Norcold AC plug to duplex outlet under the sink with a tie-wrap and perhaps same could be done with the charger plug, as well. However, that may not be as easy due to the ‘snap in’ feature of that inlet, as described. 

I think I’ve seen the tie-wrap trick somewhere - perhaps even on the fridge plug. If that’s where I saw it, then it slipped off. 

I suppose that’s one band-aid that stands a chance of working. 

On the battery charger outlet/plug, if there’s room I could use a couple of the adhesive tie-wrap mounts to provide a place to anchor the tie-wraps. 

Still, the only permanent, craftsmanlike repair is to cut off the plugs and hard wire the devices. I suppose that will void the warranty - but at 4-5 years old - I doubt there’s much warranty left if any. 

[Galileo]

17 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Not replace, but repair the connection so it cannot come off again.

Is it for the inverter/charger?

So a 110V plug like the fridge? If so, it’s not the plug but a cheap outlet receptacle. That could be replaced with a Leviton or a quality outlet not Made in you know where!

Cheesy, yes! OTT wired the outputs on our inverter using a residential junction box and wire nuts! 🤣

Hardwire? I’d do that in a heartbeat! 😎

Wire nuts?!

Yikes. 

My SOP for this kind of hard wiring would be soldered connections and heat shrink tubing. 

Using a higher quality receptacle for the fridge is certainly an option. Pretty sure even Leviton is made in China these days… 

As I mentioned, that the battery charger plugs into a single snap-in socket on the back of the A/C breaker box, a high-quality replacement may be difficult to source. 

Just as an aside that drives home the point of how much vibration that the trailer and everything in it is subject to, I noticed a screw holding the rain gutter above the door had backed out by about a cm. I guess going over the whole trailer and tightening things back up is just one of those things that needs to be done periodically.  

[Galileo]

11 hours ago, johnwen said:

My experience....with our 2022 LE2 Norcold I left my setting on auto while boondocking and my LP ran out.  The result was an automatic switch to DC while we were away for 2 days.  On a good note,  with help from Steve L. and JD I got to throw away my 4 6v agms and switch to 600 ahs worth of Epoch Lithuims. Albeit an expensive lesson I couldn't be happier that it happened 🙂

I don’t think we’ve had our Norcold fridge set for “auto” fall back to the DC mode. (Yet)

My understanding is that running the fridge on DC is terribly inefficient. (I guess that’s why you got to toss your old AGMs?)

I don’t need the expense of replacing my batteries yet - but I suppose at 5 years - I need to be planning for that day. 

Its really pretty rare that we use our batteries at all, so I doubt they’ve ever been deeply discharged. I think keeping the USB outlets and other vampire loads powered up for a few hours at a time between shore power is about it. 

I think with our mission - at least so far - the most sensible option for me is just replacing the four 6 volt wet cells with a good quality equivalent. I’d likely go with a Delco Voyager as I’ve had good experience with them before. 

[jd1923]

56 minutes ago, Galileo said:

I think with our mission - at least so far - the most sensible option for me is just replacing the four 6 volt wet cells with a good quality equivalent.

This was sensible on a cost basis 5 years ago and before. LiFePO4 batteries used to be expensive. Today you get far more usable Ah/$ going with LiFePO4 batteries over 4 "golf cart batteries!" Watering batteries doesn't have to be a thing anymore, OMG! 🤣

But what do I know? I really dislike connecting to shore power. With our recent upgrades, we travel for weeks without the need to plug in! Our DC-DC charger alone allows us to produce more Ahs in 5 hours towing than you have in your entire system after being plugged in all night, and that's if your batteries were brand new.

Really, take a good look at LiFePO4 today! You'll save money outright on an Ah/$ basis. When you figure 10-year vs. 5-year life, the savings truly double! Lead acid only belongs in the tow vehicle as a starter battery, not anymore for deep-cycle storage.

[CRM]

5 hours ago, Galileo said:

Still, the only permanent, craftsmanlike repair is to cut off the plugs and hard wire the devices. I suppose that will void the warranty - but at 4-5 years old - I doubt there’s much warranty left if any. 

I haven't had any issues with unplugging yet, but if I did I'd probably just replace the plug and socket with a twist-lock type.  

[Galileo]

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Watering batteries doesn't have to be a thing anymore, OMG! 🤣

Watering batteries? 
 

You have heard of “maintenance free” batteries with lead/calcium grids? They don’t even have the ability to be “watered” unless you do surgery and attempt to pry off sealed lids or drill holes. 

I don’t know what other owners who took deliver in 2022 have in their units - but our are sealed and can’t be watered. A little sight glass (of sorts) in the top cover tells you when the electrolyte level has dropped too far - then you replace them. 

Good quality batteries - like the Delco Voyager - have been maintenance-free since the late 70’s. They’re also primarily a deep-cycle battery, so the plates and cells are optimized for use in RV’s and cruising sailboats as “house” batteries. They’re not the traditional cranking batteries. 

I’d have to compare prices between lead/acid batteries and LiFePO4 batteries. On a cost/AH basis they -may- be a helluva deal, but for our mission, we already have more amps than we need. For me, hooking up shore power takes less time than chocks and jack pads. Usually, by the time I have the rig u hitched, my mate has shore power connected and the clock on the microwave set. 

Heck, our old motorhome only had -one- 12v deep cycle battery - and we never ran it down. 

[Galileo]

1 hour ago, CRM said:

I haven't had any issues with unplugging yet, but if I did I'd probably just replace the plug and socket with a twist-lock type.  

I think we’d be voiding the warranty that way as well. 

I doubt a snap-in twist-lock receptacle is available to fit into the back of the A/C breaker box. 

Rather than upgrade the band-aid, I’d opt to eliminate the disconnect entirely. 

[CRM]

2 minutes ago, Galileo said:

I think we’d be voiding the warranty that way as well. 

I doubt a snap-in twist-lock receptacle is available to fit into the back of the A/C breaker box. 

Rather than upgrade the band-aid, I’d opt to eliminate the disconnect entirely. 

Yes, on a newer Ollie you'd have to worry about the warranty, but mine is out of warranty for over 16 years now. 

And you can buy 20 amp twist lock receptacles that fit in the same space as a standard receptacle. 

[jd1923]

5 hours ago, Galileo said:

Watering batteries?

Yep, you wrote "6V batteries" and most still have the fill caps! AGM is "maintenance free" yet glorified LA. You know in the early 50s and before, every American automobile used a 6V battery. 🤣

I guess you missed my point, but I'll give it one more try...

In 2019, I upgraded a Class C with solar, inverter and three 100 Ah AGM batteries. AGM (LA) was the right choice then. I paid about $800 for 300 Ah (150 usable). The alternative was two 100 Ah Battleborn batteries which many Oliver Owners in the day purchased. This would have been about $2,400 which came to 3x the cost. This is not true anymore.

You can buy cheaper LiFePO4 brands, but two of these Epoch 105s come to $1000, Four quality AGM batteries will cost about the same. LiFePO4 is warrantied for 11 years while the Gold model on any LA battery is warrantied for 3 years.

Epoch Batteries 12V 105Ah Essential Series LiFePO4 Battery — Renewable Outdoors

Two of these have very close to the same usable Ahs as 4 LA. These weigh 22 LBS each so you could also lose 200 LBS in the battery bay and have enough room besides for a good size toolbox! 😎

You'll have trouble finding another Oliver owner who would be the defense of a future purchase of lead-acid house batteries. But it's certainly OK if you want to be the one. Just trying to help. 😎

Edited 5 hours ago by jd1923

[johnwen]

11 hours ago, Galileo said:

My understanding is that running the fridge on DC is terribly inefficient. (I guess that’s why you got to toss your old AGMs?)

It was.

[Galileo]

I don’t think I missed your point, I’m just not buying what you’re selling. 
 

Our 6v batteries don’t have fill caps. Nor do they even have covers you can pry out to get to the cells. (Trust me, I looked.)  Rather, they have the “Delco Eye” (magic eye, whatever) that is a combination hydrometer and electrolyte level indicator. It’s the mark of a maintence-free flooded cell battery. Short of overcharging these batteries, they’re designed not to need watering for the life of the battery due to removing antimony from the lead and using calcium instead to reduce gassing and electrolyte loss. I even had distilled water ready to service the batteries. I was a bit disappointed that there was no way to do that - but - I got over it and finally stopped carrying that jug of distilled water. 

And yes, as a former mechanic, I’m well aware that old cars had 6 volt batteries, generators rather than alternators. I even know why neither of those is true today. 

Anyway - we’re happy with our antique 6v old technology batteries. 

I guess it’s a good thing that we still have the freedom to choose our own style of camping and to choose what we each consider “good” places to camp. We -like- campgrounds with 30 amp power and water. We also like campgrounds with showers - and laundry when we can get it. We can always hike out to experience the ticks and chiggers if we feel the need. BTDT. 
 

“Boondocking” isn’t our style. If it were, we would have opted for the (at the time) expensive lithium package and probably solar. Frankly, I don’t think the sleek, low-drag fiberglass shape of the Oliver is well suited to solar panels. Perhaps when flexible solar panels that can conform to the curves of the roof are perfected, I’ll reconsider that option. Anyway, there’s no reason for us to equip our trailer with capacity we’ll never use. 

 

[Galileo]

5 hours ago, CRM said:

And you can buy 20 amp twist lock receptacles that fit in the same space as a standard receptacle

Where the fridge plugs into a standard 15 amp duplex receptacle sure, but not where the battery charger plugs into the back of the AC breaker box. Thats not a standard receptacle. Anyway, if I’m cutting plugs off, I’m gonna hard wire it. 

[Ronbrink]

5 hours ago, Galileo said:

I guess it’s a good thing that we still have the freedom to choose our own style of camping and to choose what we each consider “good” places to camp. We -like- campgrounds with 30 amp power and water.

That’s our preference, as well. However, I choose to replace the four 6v Trojan T-105 225Ah batteries with LFPs three years ago for the specific purpose of being able to run the air conditioner off the house batteries. In doing so, lost half the weight and gained double the usable Ahs. When in transit to and from a destination and making stops along the way to rest, eat meals, shop, and do unplanned repairs and maintenance; I find comfort in a ‘cool retreat’ at these times. I can even pre-cool the Oliver prior to a planned stop, as deemed necessary. As @jd1923 emphasized, the DC-DC charger will quickly bring the house batteries to a respectful SOC upon arrival at a destination. This is how we roll and very pleased with the LFP upgrade.