Upgraded the 30 lb LP tanks to Aluminum with custom base

[rideadeuce]

Finally got around to switching out our LP tanks for aluminum ones. 17 lbs vs 25 lbs. Supposedly holds 8 gallons of propane. We shall see. Had to make a custom tank mount due to bottom ring being too large for the steel tank mount. Made it out of HDPE 3/4 in bottom and top half with cutouts (9 9/16 in circle) was 1/2 in thick. Slight modification to center rod and large wing nut to secure tanks. Rod I used was 36 in. Needs to be long enough go through frame. Used my hand held router with a Jasper circle jig. Worked great. Very happy with the results. Couple inches to spare height wise with fiberglass shell back on. One of the last vestiges of steel removed from the Oliver. 

https://flameking.com/product/ysn330-copy/

 Pre-purged vacuum ready for filling with propane

12x12x26.5 in

17 lbs

7-8 gallons

OPD valve

3

Edited March 3 by rideadeuce

[Galileo]

Very cool!

Was looking at that Flame King site to see if they made aluminum ones in the 20# size. Looks like not. 

We don’t use enough propane to rationalize 30# tanks - I just had one refilled that lasted almost a year. Though, I wouldn’t mind reducing the weight. If memory serves, the steel 20# tanks weigh in at about 11-1/2 pounds each. 

[rideadeuce]

1 hour ago, Galileo said:

 

Was looking at that Flame King site to see if they made aluminum ones in the 20# size. Looks like not. 

 

Not sure why they were not listed on the Flame King website but here is a link for them on Amazon. 

https://a.co/d/gH5cYyd

Actually, found it here as well

$199 for 20 lb tanks can get 10% off as well if you sign up for email.

https://flamekingproducts.com/products/flame-king-lightweight-20lb-aluminum-propane-tank-lp-cylinder-with-opd-gauge

Edited March 3 by rideadeuce

[Galileo]

Thanks @rideadeuce - I looked twice at the flame king site and didn’t see it. Oh well.

I’m gonna have to go back and look at my steel tanks. Thought they were 11-something pounds - but the Amazon listing says the aluminum ones are 13.7, so I must be wrong. 

I used to be pretty anal about monitoring my remaining propane by weighing them. I got over it and actually ran one out. I guess it had to happen. 

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, Galileo said:

We don’t use enough propane to rationalize 30# tanks

Nice mod and great installation work as usual Mike! @rideadeuce

Love our 30# tanks and would upgrade if we purchased an Oliver with only 20s. I don't see the need for aluminum tanks with years left on our tanks that were upgraded by a previous owner. It's only a 16LB savings, the weight of 2 gallons of drinking water. I do like 8 vs. 6.8 gallons capacity but this is a lot of money.

We traveled twice this February, 7 nights to Q and back and 5 nights to the Santa Catalinas near Tucson. Twelve nights out camping, cooking on the Weber Q grill and the stovetop, limited furnace use give the reasonable temps and we only used the fire ring on two nights! Our first 30# tank is now at 22% and the second is still full. If we had two 20s we would be into the second tank already! What if we lived or traveled north? Would you as well use enough, someday? I love that we can and have gone for 4 weeks and only fill tanks when we return home. 😂  

[Galileo]

Guess it just depends where you (like to) travel. Cold weather isn’t our thing. 

That said, our “escape” to Florida was less than optimal as the record cold weather and rain followed us. 

We rarely use the cooktop. I got an inexpensive induction “hot plate” that I can use outside or inside. We’re stingy with hot water, and I’ve only run the furnace a dozen ”cycles” in two months (Jan-Feb). 

I contemplated the 30# upgrade when we bought, but didn’t think it was critical for us. That, and we seem to be near enough to places to refill propane that we can refill one as soon as it goes empty and gave several weeks (at least) leeway before we’re even close to using the second. I guess if we boondocked more (or at all really) it would be an issue. Seems we’re almost always near or passing through a town with a hardware store that sells propane. That without even stopping to do a short-filled “Blue Rhino” tank. (Only 15# of propane in that 20# tank!)

For us, being without electricity is a bigger deal - but not to the point we opted for Lithium or Solar. 

[jd1923]

49 minutes ago, Galileo said:

Guess it just depends where you (like to) travel.

Yes, for sure. This would not work out west where you would want to boondock often! We don't camp summers nor harsh winters but the rest of the year is great in the SW and we would only leave the SW at the right times of year.

Last week camping, day temps were upwards to 85. The first night I had not turned on the furnace and woke up at 5AM to find the cabin at 54F when I switched on the furnace set to 65F. Florida is the land of sweat and air conditioning 24x7 (we lived in WPB for 4 years). I could no longer stand to feel and hear A/C 365 days a year. Yes, there you need hook-ups. 

Although with 720W in solar, a 3KVA Victron Inverter, a 50A DC-DC charger, 600AH in LiFePO4 (can easily add another 300AH or more when needed) and coming very soon an Atmos A/C that cools well using <10A, we don't need no stinkin' hook-ups! It's such a great care-free feeling to do without. Often I ask for and sometimes get a half-priced stay paying cash without hook-ups.

[rideadeuce]

Yeah, I don’t disagree for most people it is not necessary. May not be for me, but I do plan on doing more 4 season camping. The PNW and Canada are definitely on the radar. I, also, go to CO in late fall/early spring often. It is just peace of mind and redundancy… backup. Granted I do have a penchant for “personalizing” things. For me, that is half the fun of ownership along with planning, contingencies and logistics. Ha!

Saying that:

• Aluminum tanks and mount are steel free. So no more Rust or annual maintenance. C
• The old ones were coming up on expiration soon and one had a sticky valve… always a pain to fill
• Safer in that they have an OPD valve
• Lighter, picking 17 vs 25  lbs does make a difference, especially when full
• New mount is easier to seat the tanks
• 8 gallons vs 7 gallons 

Some cons, would be the cost of tanks, custom mount needed (none available for purchase yet), wireless Mopeka propane tank monitor needs extra adhesive mount since tanks are not magnetic and decreased puncture resistance.

Get out there!

Mike

 

 

 

Edited March 3 by rideadeuce

[Patriot]

Surely no man ever said I have too much LP, so I am in the 30# tank club here. 😄 We enjoyed rarely having to fill out LP tanks on our 48 day trip out west last fall and rarely had thoughts about LP. Never had any issues with locating an LP supplier out west during our travels. I digress. 

Nice work @rideadeuce nothing better than a clean fit and finish DYI install!  The only thing you may want to consider is adding a lock to your T-handle where you secure those pretty new aluminum tanks. Will it completely stop a theft likely not. But it may cause the thug to move on to a more target rich environment.

Although, I have never had anybody attempt to steel our tanks, it is merely a peace of mind and an easy mod. Simply flatten your T-handle out a little after tightening it down mark and drill a hole through the T handle and the tank security bracket (pic). I ran a small pistol cable lock securing the T handle to the mount bracket. Or you can just use a decent pad lock.

Again nice work on the scooping up the tanks and mount fab!

Patriot🇺🇸🇺🇸

 

Edited March 3 by Patriot

[johnwen]

10 hours ago, jd1923 said:

we don't need no stinkin' hook-ups!

Love It!!!!

[Galileo]

3 hours ago, Patriot said:

Although, I have never had anybody attempt to steel our tanks, it is merely a peace of mind and an easy mod. Simply flatten your T-handle out a little after tightening it down mark and drill a hole through the T handle and the tank security bracket (pic). I ran a small pistol cable lock securing the T handle to the mount bracket. Or you can just use a decent pad lock.

Back in the bad old days (late ‘70’s, Chicago) my father’s moto home had the spare tire stolen off the rear bumper bracket more than once. He - a machinist - made a pretty involved stainless steel bracket and lock that finally solved the problem.

Though I haven’t done it - yet - I plan to (better) secure our Ollie’s spare by drilling a hole through the end of the stud behind the license plate and running a lock through it much as you describe the LP tanks. I guess I’ll do the same for MY LP tanks - even though they’re the “ho-hum, just a plain old 20# steel BBQ tank”.

[Patriot]

We have a 1Up Super Duty Bike rack which lives on the back of “XPLOR”. In order to access the spare, I have to unlock and remove our bikes, then unlock the bike rack in two locations, and remove it. So for now that’s how we roll with rear spare security. 

 Steinaker SP, Vernal, Utah

[Galileo]

4 minutes ago, Patriot said:

In order to access the spare, I have to unlock and remove our bikes, then unlock the bike rack in two locations, and remove it. So for now that’s how we roll with rear spare security. 

Well hell, that’s simple!

Your spare tire is secure because it’s impossible to ride off with a heavy tire and rim on a stolen bike! 😋

But seriously, we might want to add bikes to our camping gear, but it’s one more toy you have to keep safe….

We generally find that campgrounds are pretty safe. That said, some parks aren’t as well-secured as they should be and vagrants of a sort seem to show up late - after the staff is gone. They shower, crash, and depart before the staff arrives. I’ve seen beater pickup trucks cruising through campgrounds and marinas looking for anything that’s not bolted down or attended to. (The assortment of mixed booty tossed in the back is a clue.) Had to scare off a few suspicious looking characters in the past couple of years. Generally, eyeballing them really good tends to get them to speed up and depart .

[topgun2]

A very quick and easy "security" item is to simply purchase a stainless steel nut for the threaded post coming out of the back of the Ollie.  

Still using the "wheel" nut that came stock, just double nut it with the new stainless nut.  Not too many crooks out there carry a wrench big enough for that nut.

Bill

[Mountainman198]

7 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

A very quick and easy "security" item is to simply purchase a stainless steel nut for the threaded post coming out of the back of the Ollie.  

Still using the "wheel" nut that came stock, just double nut it with the new stainless nut.  Not too many crooks out there carry a wrench big enough for that nut.

Bill

I did something similar by merely double stacking a nylon lock nut on top of the standard wingnut. All you are trying to do is slow down a thief since a serious one will merely use a big screwdriver or wrench and pry the spanner up 1/4” between the two tanks to free them to be pulled out. 

[topgun2]

4 minutes ago, Mountainman198 said:

All you are trying to do is slow down a thief since a serious one will merely use a big screwdriver or wrench and pry the spanner up 1/4” between the two tanks to free them to be pulled out. 

Sorry - I should have noted that I was referring to the spare tire.

Bill

[Galileo]

7 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

A very quick and easy "security" item is to simply purchase a stainless steel nut for the threaded post coming out of the back of the Ollie.  

Still using the "wheel" nut that came stock, just double nut it with the new stainless nut.  Not too many crooks out there carry a wrench big enough for that nut.

Bill

Dunno how big that nut (hex) would be, but based on the cars I used to see sitting up in milk crates, the crooks come with lug wrenches….

As always, locks and other measures “keep the honest people honest”.

The only added “security” device I’ve added is the locking receiver pin holding the Andersen WD hitch in place. I actually chose a less common one, as the common ones have an undercut right where it counts that weaken the pin and make it easy for crooks to snap off the end. I don’t use the cheap Camco hitch coupler lock because it looks like a weak die casting that could easily be broken. I saw a fabricated steel one at Camping World - but it was kinda pricey. When I’m feeling flush, I may buy one.

[topgun2]

Yep - even a fairly large  pair of "Vice-grips" pliers could get the double nut off.  But it would still take more time than simply turning that stock "star" nut.

Bill

Edited March 3 by topgun2
added detail

[Galileo]

I figure a “professional” thief is kinda like a squirrel going after your bird feeders: That’s their business 24/7 and they’ll outsmart pretty much any “squirrel proof” feeders you have and find a way to chow down.

Luckily, crooks that dedicated don’t waste their time on spare tires or propane tanks - they go after art, diamonds, and gold - or - they run for state or federal office. 

Edited March 3 by Galileo
Tweaked my squirrel theory

[Patriot]

15 minutes ago, Galileo said:

I figure a “professional” thief is kinda like a squirrel going after your bird feeders: They’ll outsmart pretty much any “squirrel proof” feeders you have and find a way to chow down.

Luckily, crooks that dedicated don’t waste their time on spare tires or propane tanks - they go after art, diamonds, and gold - or - they run for state or federal office. 

It was so cold here the other morning I saw a politician with his hands in his own pockets, and no spare tire! 😂 Ba da bum! 

Edited March 3 by Patriot

[Galileo]

10 minutes ago, Patriot said:

It was so cold here the other morning I saw a politician with his hands in his own pockets, and no spare tire! 😂 Ba da bum! 

Johnny Carson fan? 😋

[jd1923]

We have a family saying that it's hard to get the Chicago out of the guy! Locked-n-loaded, an old baseball bat by the door... You too Val @Galileo!

Being born and raised in a crime-ridden city like Chicago it's hard to feel safe through life and this feeling can get much worse with additional worry. Then we moved to better neighborhoods and couldn't help locking, double-locking, checking again to see if it's locked! It can drive you crazy, for sure. City life can cause PSTD.

Here in Prescott and before in good VA and TX neighborhoods we've tried to not be so worried all the time. I leave my garage unlocked 24x7 when we're home, just to see if I can and live with it. It has a window half the size of the door and no deadbolt! If we still lived in Chicago I would have replaced it 20 years ago with a solid steel door and double-keyed deadbolt. On purpose, I often leave our cars and trucks, even the Oliver unlocked in the driveway as a kind of therapy.

I put a lock on the LP tank spin nut. I locked the battery tray after our LiFePO4 upgrade since it was the single most expensive addition we've made. But the spare, OMG! 🤣I promise you, it has little to NO STREET VALUE! The other items mentioned, the crackhead thief can get quick cash on the street. Not an Oliver spare, nobody wants one except you. Heck, if I every wanted a bike rack (not me, unless it's a dirt bike), I would remove the spare and stick it in an outbuilding. But that's just me.

[Galileo]

2 hours ago, jd1923 said:

But the spare, OMG! 🤣I promise you, it has little to NO STREET VALUE!

If you or I tried to sell a spare, mounted trailer tire - even a new one on a nice rim - you’d be right. No one would give us $5 for it. 

Unfortunately, the types of amateur thieves who steel anything not nailed down, don’t know what the street value of stuff is. They might toss it away after not being able to sell it for a fix or a drink.  That still leaves you and I picking up the pieces and repairing the damage they do.

I once made the mistake of leaving a tote bag in my car that -looked- like it might have a laptop in it. Some knucklehead broke my window to steal it. They were likely quite disappointed to find out they stole a bag full of Libertarian party literature. I, on the other hand, had to drive home 15 miles in the dead of winter with no passenger door window, and spend $60 and a day chasing and replacing a window from a salvage yard. 

[Galileo]

2 hours ago, jd1923 said:

 

We have a family saying that it's hard to get the Chicago out of the guy! Locked-n-loaded, an old baseball bat by the door... You too Val

 

Oh, I’ve “upgraded” from the baseball bat….

It was hard to break the habit of locking car and home doors when I moved from Chicago to rural Texas. 

OTOH, leaving doors unlocked means that at least I stand less of a chance of having somebody break a window or kick in a door to steal stuff…. 😋

[Ronbrink]

20 hours ago, Mountainman198 said:

I did something similar by merely double stacking a nylon lock nut on top of the standard wingnut. All you are trying to do is slow down a thief since a serious one will merely use a big screwdriver or wrench and pry the spanner up 1/4” between the two tanks to free them to be pulled out.

To your point, I weave a metal cable through the tank handles as further deterrent/securement; the looped ends are on the center threaded stock.