What is Towing "Level" and Does It Matter?

[Sam Heumann]

We're new Oliver owners, 2025 E2 Hull #1590. We purchased MeriWether in Florida before Christmas and towed it home to Texas, about a 1,200 mile run. TV is a 2025 F-150 PowerBoost with the 5' bed, 4WD and tow package.

 

I've read so many helpful, and sometimes confusing posts on this forum, but I want to reach out for some additional information and yes opinions.

 

I installed an Andersen WDH before the journey, in the configuration I thought was correct. I did use CAT scales for independent weights/distributions as well as with/without the WDH connected. Weights were well within all published weight limits for trailer, TV, TV receiver, etc.

 

My initial observations during the trip were, TV almost level, bow high on the trailer and the rear axle tires ran 5° F warmer than the front axle tires after a couple of hours on the road. The overall towing performance for this trip was acceptable, but I wanted to fine tune the hitch setup.....level the trailer while being towed, optimize the steer axle weight transfer with the WDH, and allow the tailgate to fully open without hitting the top of the Bulldog hitch.

 

Based on the premise the trailer undercarriage should be reasonably level for even loads to the springs, bearings and tires, I began my journey of what does "level" mean to an Oliver E2 and where do you measure it? 

 

First stop, the Mothership, tech support indicated - if the bubble on the front jack is level, the Oliver is level (I did try to understand what datums that was tied to, but was unsuccessful). I found a level portion of my driveway, centered the front jack bubble, fore and aft  (which I know is adjustable) and measured using various levels, the interior floor, steel undercarriage, exterior seam of the top and bottom halves of the shell, aluminum tongue and frame. All were reasonably consistent and "level".

 

I also measured the distance from the front and back sections of the frame to the driveway and the measurements were within 1/16"....frame parallel to the ground. With a 8' framing level beside the tires, the driveway also indicated level.

 

The Bulldog coupler dimension, where the top of the ball seats, is 19-1/2". I understand as the trailer gets loaded and the TV gets loaded that dimension will change but the other "level datum"  locations should help me adjust the WDH, air bags (don't have any yet), as well as redistributing any loads in the TV or trailer to achieve a level trailer towing condition.

 

I have made several adjustments to the hitch height and preload of the weight distribution hitch urethane 2" puck (translated to threads exposed). An interesting point in discussing setup parameters with the Andersen techs, they indicated the towing dimension of the puck should be compressed by 1/8" to 1/4" from the relaxed its state.

 

So here's my question to other owners, does a level trailer (in the towed condition) this really matter? 

[topgun2]

Sam - 

WELCOME!

It appears that you have already done a bunch more than many owners in researching, thinking, weighing, etc. and adjusting your hitch setup.

As with a number of things regarding towing and RV there tend to be a number of different opinions and/or approaches to the subject.  And, virtually no matter how you setup the rig, many of the factors that went into the setup depend on what the "current situation" just might be.  But, as a starting point, leveling the tow vehicle and the trailer (as close as possible) is a good thing.  

Then as you load, unload, have different levels of fluid in your tanks, different amounts of food and drink, different amounts of cloths and related items, different selections of tools, etc. both the amount of weight and the distribution of that weight is likely to change.  Also, the type of terrain that you will tow over will likely change - possibly even during one trip.  Within reason, your initial setup would appear to cover the vast majority of circumstances.  But, be prepared to make adjustments if you encounter off-road situations, very uneven and/or rough roads , or your weights in either the tow vehicle or the trailer change (i.e. you carry another couple of passengers with you, buy that really sweet big (and heavy) grill/fire pit, etc.

Yes, I believe that the work you have put into your setup does matter and will make your towing experience safer and more pleasant.  But, if you encounter the rough terrain I mention above and feel uncertain about it then it don't hesitate to temporarily loosen those Andersen chains in order to take some of the strain off the frame (but, if you do this, be sure to put them back to your "normal" setup after you have resumed your "normal" towing).

Bill

[Sam Heumann]

Bill, thanks.

One thing I've picked up on is the strain to both the tow vehicle and trailer via the Andersen in high angle or rough terrain conditions - noted and filed.

Sam

[Ronbrink]

1 hour ago, Sam Heumann said:

what does "level" mean to an Oliver E2 and where do you measure it? 

I think Oliver recommends the distance from ground to top of ball at the Bulldog coupler to be 23.5”.

[Sam Heumann]

Hi Ron,

That's why I listed the 19-1/2" dimension......towing at 23-1/2" implies 4" higher or a bow high condition, unless the 23-1/2" is initial trailer coupling height and it settles some with attachment to the tow vehicle and raises some with actuation of the Andersen.

I'm making the assumption that any tandem axle trailer manufacturer wants a "level" towed configuration. Thanks for responding. I'm learning.

Sam  

[DavePhelps]

2 hours ago, Sam Heumann said:

So here's my question to other owners, does a level trailer (in the towed condition) this really matter? 

Yes it does!

And it is good you are taking the time to figure it all out. Traditional towing wisdom is that it is always best to have your trailer "level" (parallel to the ground) while towing. One can err a little having the front slightly low, but front higher than level is to be avoided for stability reasons. If you have a long flat surface to hitch up your TV and trailer, "level" just means that they are in plane with each other and the ground. You can measure the Oliver seam joint fore and aft to the ground (as you did) to see if they are equal (or check by measuring the frame to ground). Then check your TV to be sure it's not squatting in the rear. It should be sitting parallel to the ground as well. Trailer adjustments are made at the hitch, TV adjustments can be made by adding airbags or adjusting your WDH.  Best to start getting your TV level. Just standing back and looking at the TV/trailer hooked up will tell you a lot. Just a caution that adding airbags to your TV does not increase your rated payload capacity! Make your trailer and TV so they are on parallel planes, that is the goal, with a slight nose down being acceptable if that is all you can tune into the system. It is never perfect, but getting it as close as you can goes a long ways to increasing your safety, and others around you on the road. Check out the Robert Pepper video. He has many videos on rigging and trailer setups that are extremely valuable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JeEEC5eVNCk

Good luck,

Dave

[jd1923]

5 hours ago, Sam Heumann said:

We're new Oliver owners, 2025 E2 Hull #1590. We purchased MeriWether in Florida before Christmas and towed it home to Texas, about a 1,200 mile run. TV is a 2025 F-150 PowerBoost with the 5' bed, 4WD and tow package.

 

I installed an Andersen WDH before the journey, in the configuration I thought was correct.

 

My initial observations during the trip were, TV almost level, bow high on the trailer and the rear axle tires ran 5° F warmer than the front axle tires after a couple of hours on the road. The overall towing performance for this trip was acceptable, but I wanted to fine tune the hitch setup.....level the trailer while being towed, optimize the steer axle weight transfer with the WDH, and allow the tailgate to fully open without hitting the top of the Bulldog hitch.

Welcome Sam! Please add a signature, when you have the time, and we all would love more of your input on our great OTT Forum.

I went through similar thoughts when we started towing our Oliver a couple years ago. Our tow vehicle is borderline on requiring the WDH, but the user manual does state to us one when hitch weight is >500 LBS or trailer >5000 LBS.

I believe set the Bulldog at the height OTT recommends as Ron stated above. When I hitch the Oliver, the rear of our truck drops 2". Checkout my pics. First is hitched and second is adding the Andersen WDH tightened correctly. You can see in the second pic a good level front bumper of TV to rear bumper of TT! But yes, the WDH does add lots of stress at the ball for sure and likely elsewhere.

In two years, 135 overnights and 15K+ miles, I've only felt comfortable with WDH attached. Without it the under-sprung Oliver will waddle through intersections and porpoise over bumps and dip. Until...

Recently, I upgraded adding Alcan Leaf Springs rated at 2750 LBS each vs. the OEM 1700. The difference is night and day. I haven't beefed up the TV rear suspension at all, it's just that now the trailer suspension is handing the trailer and not moving the TV all over the road, like the tail waggin' the dog! 🤣 Our Andersen WDH is now in storage, until somebody wants to buy one. Better springs will likely give you what you want. It's not whether your hitch is up or down an inch or tension +/- on the Andersen.

The other thing is ALL Oliver Owners should purchase is the LevelMatePRO (get the PRO model which can be wired directly, no battery changes needed). Find the most level place you can park, set the 3 stabilizer jacks and get as level as possible (us a sight level in many places like you've down). Then you go through calibration steps on the app. I wired my PRO model out-of-sight, under the rear dinette seat where 12VDC is easily available. We use it every time we're parking the Oliver. I turn the app on from the driver's seat to get the best possible spot. Then Chris get's out and places the Andersen Rapid Jacks under the correct side (when needed). I roll up, set the parking brake, and we're done! 😎

[Sam Heumann]

Many thanks. Great points. I'll learn and tune with the current trailer suspension and upgrade if needed in the future.

My history is 17 years with a single axle Casita Freedom Deluxe (w/bathroom). Tandem axle and Andersen is a learning experience.

I will investigate the signature as you suggested - thank you.

Sam

[Geronimo John]

On 1/7/2026 at 9:54 AM, Ronbrink said:

I think Oliver recommends the distance from ground to top of ball at the Bulldog coupler to be 23.5”.

 

On 1/7/2026 at 2:00 PM, jd1923 said:

I believe set the Bulldog at the height OTT recommends as Ron stated above

Ron and JD:  The above 23.5" to 25" recommendation was for our older trailers with the larger wheel diameter.  Sam's 2025 trailer I believe has 15" rims.  So likely the target is not the same as those with 16" tires.    I also agree that a bit low on the front of Ollie is also advantageous, especially out west were speeds tend to be higher.

I agree with both JD and Dave that for setting up the systems for travel....  Stand back and take a gander.

For those of us with older F-150's, we have found that a pair of Bilstein 5100's shocks and air bags on the rear axle have made a wonderful improvement in our driving experiences.  

GJ

Edited Saturday at 02:21 AM by Geronimo John
Shocks are 5100, Sure wish we had spell check on our site!

[Sam Heumann]

Thanks for the comments. I'm adding all to my "level" and "towing" mental database. I'm early in the game and each comment/recommendation/opinion make me peel the onion another layer.

I am indeed riding on 15" wheels.

The eye is quite discerning....looking reasonably level, is indeed critical. 

[John and Debbie]

22 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Welcome Sam! Please add a signature, when y ou have the time, and we all would love more of your input on our great OTT Forum.

I went through similar thoughts when we started towing our Oliver a couple years ago. Our tow vehicle is borderline on requiring the WDH, but the user manual does state to us one when hitch weight is >500 LBS or trailer >5000 LBS.

I believe set the Bulldog at the height OTT recommends as Ron stated above. When I hitch the Oliver, the rear of our truck drops 2". Checkout my pics. First is hitched and second is adding the Andersen WDH tightened correctly. You can see in the second pic a good level front bumper of TV to rear bumper of TT! But yes, the WDH does add lots of stress at the ball for sure and likely elsewhere.

In two years, 135 overnights and 15K+ miles, I've only felt comfortable with WDH attached. Without it the under-sprung Oliver will waddle through intersections and porpoise over bumps and dip. Until...

Recently, I upgraded adding Alcan Leaf Springs rated at 2750 LBS each vs. the OEM 1700. The difference is night and day. I haven't beefed up the TV rear suspension at all, it's just that now the trailer suspension is handing the trailer and not moving the TV all over the road, like the tail waggin' the dog! 🤣 Our Andersen WDH is now in storage, until somebody wants to buy one. Better springs will likely give you what you want. It's not whether your hitch is up or down an inch or tension +/- on the Andersen.

The other thing is ALL Oliver Owurchase is the LevelMatePRO (get the PRO model which can be wired directly, no battery changes needed). Find the most level place you can park, set the 3 stabilizer jacks and get as level as possible (us a sight level in many places like you've down). Then you go through calibration steps on the app. I wired my PRO model out-of-sight, under the rear dinette seat where 12VDC is easily available. We use it every time we're parking the Oliver. I turn the app on from the driver's seat to get the best possible spot. Then Chris get's out and places the Andersen Rapid Jacks under the correct side (when needed). I roll up, set the parking brake, and we're done! 😎

"The other thing is ALL Oliver Owurchase is the LevelMatePRO"

I agree.  It's a great item to have.  We once used it to find the most level pull through in a nearly vacant state park.  Why not?  I think we drove through ten sites and just found the most level one.  It makes set up so easy.

John

[jd1923]

22 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

The above 23.5" to 25" recommendation was for our older trailers with the larger wheel diameter.  Sam's 2025 trailer I believe has 15" rims.

20 hours ago, Sam Heumann said:

I am indeed riding on 15" wheels.

Too bad they went cheap on the wheels! But 15" vs. 16" wheels is only an 1/2" height difference. But of course height is dependent on the tire profile. What is the tire profile on the 15s? We have LT225/75R16 tires on our trailer. A tire 1/2" taller in profile on 15s can equal the height on 16s! When upgrading wheels & tires, I use this app often to compare tire sizes: https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

[Geronimo John]

2 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I use this app often to compare tire sizes: https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

Cool App. thanks for the post.

For a newer owner to complete, from my Ollie Keeper Info document, below is the tire info for the 2019 (16" rims) for half the info needed to see what the delta in height will be:

 

Factory Tires:              Michelin Defender LTX MS2, LT225/75R16 Light Truck 

                                    80 PSI 10 Ply Rated, 10-Ply E Rated, Speed Rating R (106 MPH)

                          Use cold 40 PSI on Paved Roads.  25 - 30 PSI off road

                                    Load Index =115R     Load Rating 2680#     Max Press. Cold:  80 PSI.

GJ

Edited Friday at 08:36 PM by Geronimo John

[Sam Heumann]

Current tires - ST225/75R15. Cool tool for tire/wheel calculations - thanks

[jd1923]

30 minutes ago, Sam Heumann said:

Current tires - ST225/75R15. Cool tool for tire/wheel calculations - thanks

Tire profiles of the 16" and 15" are identical, so an Oliver with 15" rims sits a 1/2" lower than on 16s. Glad we have the extra 1/2" for traveling our Forest Service roads. Though the Oliver sits nicely high enough given its underslung springs. I have dragged the rear-bottom end of other trailers on dirt roads, or on steep aprons leaving some gas stations, but so far clearance on the Oliver has been good! 😎

Did they go to 15" to go to ST vs. LT tires? ST tires being more readily available in 15".

The spare tire on our Oliver is LT215/70R16 which is -0.7" smaller radius than our four LT215/70R16 tires (-0.2" smaller radius than the 15s). You really would not want to tow too far, or too fast, driving on this shorter spare tire.

Are all 5 tires the same size on newer Olivers? That's a good reason to go with 15" wheels, so that all 5 tires the same. It would be great to change a flat tire and not have to change it again immediately. It's like having a car with that dumb little spare, but I do think those are thinner profile with the same ride height.

[Sam Heumann]

All 5 are the same size 

[Ronbrink]

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

Are all 5 tires the same size on newer Olivers? 

My 2020 OLEll tires are all the same, Cooper Discoverer HT3  LT225/75R16.

[jd1923]

3 minutes ago, Ronbrink said:

My 2020 OLEll tires are all the same, Cooper Discoverer HT3  LT225/75R16.

Hmmm? Is my spare something a prior owner changed? Ron has a 2020 and Sam a 2025. Asking @topgun2 and @Mike and Carol who have 2016 hulls: Are your 5 tires all the same size? It would be great if I could replace my spare with LT225/75R16 if it fits inside the fiberglass surround.

Our spare tire is as old as the trailer but I believe it's been replaced, since a P-rated RWL tire that doesn't seem to be OEM. Replacing the spare has been bottom of my list because if/when we get a flat, I would more likely park/detach the trailer, remove the wheel and run it down the road for repair.

[Ronbrink]

On 1/8/2026 at 2:03 PM, Geronimo John said:

 

Ron and JD:  The above 23.5" to 25" recommendation was for our older trailers with the larger wheel diameter.  Sam's 2025 trailer I believe has 15" rims.  So likely the target is not the same as those with 16" tires.    I also agree that a bit low on the front of Ollie is also advantageous, especially out west were speeds tend to be higher.

I agree with both JD and Dave that for setting up the systems for travel....  Stand back and take a gander.

For those of us with older F-150's, we have found that a pair of Bilstein 5100's shocks and air bags on the rear axle have made a wonderful improvement in our driving experiences.  

GJ

Good point about the different tire diameters. I’ve always viewed the 23.5” as a ‘ballpark’ height to shoot for when fitting a ball hitch to a TV. I prefer hitches with one-inch increment for adjustment to better reach a targeted height and then the rear air bags to dial in the best towing level. I find 25 psi and 35 psi with my Air Lift LoadLifter setup for a good ride and tow, respectively. I also installed Bilsteins on the Savana after reading your praise on them, huge improvement! 

[rideandfly]

2 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Hmmm? Is my spare something a prior owner changed? Ron has a 2020 and Sam a 2025. Asking @topgun2 and @Mike and Carol who have 2016 hulls: Are your 5 tires all the same size? It would be great if I could replace my spare with LT225/75R16 if it fits inside the fiberglass surround.

Our spare tire is as old as the trailer but I believe it's been replaced, since a P-rated RWL tire that doesn't seem to be OEM. Replacing the spare has been bottom of my list because if/when we get a flat, I would more likely park/detach the trailer, remove the wheel and run it down the road for repair.

 

On our 2015 LE2 a 225X75X16 tire will not fit in our spare tire housing, so I installed a 225/75/15 Goodyear ST spare, same tire that Oliver now installs as standard. Oliver said the fiberglass tire housing on the 2015 LE2 a 225/75/15 tire would fit. My 2015 Ollie came with a 215/60/16 spare tire. 

Here's some research done on spare tires:

 

As far as towing level, I'm starting at 23 1/4" from top of the ball, our TV settles about 2" with Ollie connected, the F350 rear end is still higher than the front with Ollie connected, with Ollie looking close to level. Our Ollie towing experience has been very stable with original 5200lb axles and original Dexter 5 leaf springs.

 

 

Edited Saturday at 08:46 PM by rideandfly

[Tideline77]

After struggling to get our F150 dialed in level using the Andersen WD hitch along with RAS suspension upgrade

 

 

due to excessive suspension squatting we never got things adjusted to our satisfaction 

I am adding the Bilstein 5100s on the rear of  our F150 along with the airlift bags. Will be removing the RAS road active suspension system . With the ball height set correctly we never could overcome the squat on the F150 

 

hoping for a much more enjoyable towing experience once we get it dialed in

 

unfortunate that the RAS didn’t work out on our truck, maybe I can sell the used RAS and recover a little bit of the loss

 

I had understood our 2018 F150 with the factory tow package came with upgraded shocks ( better than stock shocks on F150s without the factory tow package ) but this truck squat is extreme when we lower the bulldog on the ball

 

I do need to go back and refresh my memory on adjusting the Andersen Hitch 

 

 

Andersen Owners manual

page 11 covers level trailer and tow vehicle 

 

Edited Saturday at 09:31 PM by Tideline77

[Geronimo John]

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

The spare tire on our Oliver is LT215/70R16 which is -0.7" smaller radius than our four LT215/70R16 tires (-0.2" smaller radius than the 15s). You really would not want to tow too far, or too fast, driving on this shorter spare tire.

Strange that your spare is not the exact tire as your 4 on roat Ollie Tires.  Likely your 2017 had replacements along the way.

3 hours ago, Sam Heumann said:

All 5 are the same size 

Ditto with mine.

[Geronimo John]

2 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

I find 25 psi and 35 psi with my Air Lift LoadLifter setup for a good ride and tow, respectively.

Thanks for the flowers.  Just for clarity my post of "Use 40 PSI on Paved Roads and 25 - 30 off road" is for the trailer tire pressures on/off good paved roads.  In reality, I do go off road on occarions where the road is graded and pretty well maintained with tires at 40 PSI.  But usually I am going less than 20 MPH.  If I need to go real slow, or go into 4WD in  locker engaged with low range and gears 1 or 2, then I for sure air down to the 25 PSI.  Easy to do with my 20V Dewaly air compressor.     

[topgun2]

1 hour ago, rideandfly said:

Asking @topgun2 and @Mike and Carol who have 2016 hulls: Are your 5 tires all the same size? It would be great if I could replace my spare with LT225/75R16 if it fits inside the fiberglass surround.

Nope!

The spare tire housing was originally designed to fit a 15 incher.  But Oliver changed to 16 inch tires at some point and never got around to changing that housing - this includes both the exterior cover and the indent in the two outside molds.  However, Oliver was again "forced" to change back to a 15 inch tire due to supply issues thus making a possible change to the molds unnecessary.  So, My spare is a 15 incher and the other four "running" tires are 16 while the newer Ollies are 15 inch all around (including the spare).  I'm sure that someone has those exact dates of change (ScubaRx maybe) but it is easy to see which spare you have.

Bill

p.s.  perhaps it is understandable concerning the spare tire issue when you know that a single exterior main body mold costs something in excess of $2,000,000.00 to fabricate.  I'm guessing that a change to that mold might cost a bit less but then you've got to consider the cost of taking it out of production while the change is being made to it.

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

My 2020 OLEll tires are all the same, Cooper Discoverer HT3  LT225/75R16.

Including the spare tire? Ron, please verify size. According to what Bill @topgun2 wrote, that wouldn’t be possible.

And thanks to our other Bill @rideandfly for the link to the spare tire thread. I have 5 identical 16” wheels so I’ll replace my spare tire with the same LT215/70R16 size I have or something very close to the smaller diameter.