Shower drain pan backup while towing

[DBL-R]

Hello, I am hoping that someone can provide a diagram of the shower plumbing.  I want to replace the pop up drain washer and a looking for the right washer to replace it with.  We have had several instances when traveling that the shower pan backs up with dirty water and yes the back flow valve is closed.  Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Thank you

Ron

[jd1923]

51 minutes ago, DBL-R said:

We have had several instances when traveling that the shower pan backs up with dirty water and yes the back flow valve is closed.

Hello Ron, with the 2015 hull #99, very nice! 😎

There's not a plumbing diagram that would help. My understanding is if the waste valve is closed the pop-up shower floor valve really doesn't matter. If you want to replace it anyway, maybe somebody here knows the make and part number or inquire with OTT.

You know, if you close the "back flow" valve when the Oliver nose is down, there would be grey water in the plumbing that would then come out when towing. Make sure your front jack is lifted when you're closing. We use the LevelMatePRO and always have our front up 1/2" or more when camped. We close the bathroom valve before releasing the jacks to tow.

During travel, I use the kitchen sink to wash my hands to leave that valve alone. If you open the valve with the nose down with Grey Tank on the full side, water can back up to the plumbing under the shower that you may see later.

Given all this, if it's still leaking on the shower floor, your waste valve could be jammed up, not closing fully. With the tanks empty, remove the valve and give it a good cleaning and lube. Under the front dinette seat, it's the 2" line at the top of the picture. The 4" is the black water drain and you might want to service that at the same time. The main Grey waste valve is under streetside bed, jammed against the floor where the two lower screws are VERY difficult to remove.

I serviced ours last year since the pull handles were getting very hard to pull. This thread may be of interest. Best wishes, JD

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/10711-waste-valves-restoration-and-upgrade/

 

[Geronimo John]

18 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Given all this, if it's still leaking on the shower floor, your waste valve could be jammed up, not closing fully. With the tanks empty, remove the valve and give it a good cleaning and lube.

I agree with JD's thoughts and recommendations.  The rear gray water valve is a bear to take apart.  But it appears that your problem likely is the vent valve up front.

I would add that if the valve is not closing there could be two causes.  The valve is partially clogged.  That can turn into a mess for sure to also deal with.

I would approach it this way:

Step 1:  First try servicing all your cables as in the below DIY.  Such a DIY is long overdue for your  hull 99.  Mine was and it is 342.  That process may result in the valve clog getting mushed and then flow down to the dump station. If that does not fix the try Step 2.

Step 2:  At a dump station, from inside, flood the gray water lines with a LOT of water.  Use your pump hot water at both sinks.  Then try max flow with the pump and a garden hosed flowing into the bathroom sink.  Suggest having a watchful eyed helper.    

Step 3:  Send a garden hose with the end cut off it from the rear of the trailer to see if you can clear it that way.  Be sure to open the gray valve outside to clear the pathway.

Step 4:  Consider getting help with a camera inspection.

Hope this helps.

GJ

DIY - Sanitary Drain Valve Cables.docx

Edited September 15 by Geronimo John

[DBL-R]

Thank you both for the advice this si very helpful, the gray and black tank valves appear to be working fine.  The back flow valve pull. In the bathroom is always somewhat difficult to push/pull.

Ron

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, DBL-R said:

The back flow valve pull. In the bathroom is always somewhat difficult to push/pull.

You're welcome, Ron. Ours was too and there are a few reasons...

The pull cable is very short and it turns 90 degrees. It's in an awkward place to pull, whether standing outside the bathroom, sitting on the can or wherever, you can't get a straight pull! And a gunked up waste valve blade will make it worse.

You can remove the waste valve, clean and lube the blade, lube the cable and it could help. You can't change the 90 degree cable run and the awkward location of the pull handle.

We love the new electric one! Without the cable, push the button and I can hear it open or close in just a second! Check my thread linked above if interested. 

[DBL-R]

I’mmmmm back!  So I was able to access my Oliver today and attached is the photo under the seat closest to the bathroom.  The circled area on the lower right is the cable that attaches to the pull handle in the bathroom.  I tried to follow the cable but there is no what that I can get my hand under there.  I am assuming that the circled area on the left is the black tank valve.  Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated 

Ron

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, DBL-R said:

Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Ron

Hey Ron, After seeing this picture, I realized you must have a 2015 Elite I, the single-axle baby Ollie! You should add a signature line so we realize that more quickly.

Calling on @SeaDawg, @DavePhelps, @bugeyedriver and others with an older EI to advise!

Most of us have the dual-axle larger EII with furnace right rear and there's so much different to which us EII owners would have no clue.

Best wishes, JD

[DBL-R]

Sorry about the confusion, it’s our first Olli!  Yes, it is a 2015 Legacy Elite I

Ron

Edited Saturday at 12:48 AM by DBL-R

[bugeyedriver]

DBL-R, 

I also have an early model LE I (2008 - #14) with the same plumbing configuration up front and for years, I dealt with the potential back flow of grey water into the shower pan if the handle for the valve on the back wall of the shower was not adequately closed before travel and the spring actuated foot valve was open.  Then, many years ago, a good friend, Larry Gamble, of Little House Customs, fixed the issue by installing a HEPvO valve and magically solved the back slosh issue.

The HepvO valve is a one way valve which closes like a duck bill and prevents the grey water from backing up into the shower during nose down or deceleration while braking.  Now that handle on the shower wall is always in the out position, allowing water to drain from the pan into the tank and the HEPvO precludes it from making the return trip.  I've removed the foot actuated drain plug and replaced it with a small sink screen to catch any small items and prevent them from gumming up the HEPvO valve.  

Larry said the clearance to install the HEPvO was very tight, but with his skill he managed to get it done anyway.  He's retired now making music instead of bending wrenches, but there should be some skilled RV mechanic you can find to make the same modification on your trailer.

Good Luck,

Pete

[DBL-R]

Hello, any chance that you have photos of the installation?

Ron

20 minutes ago, bugeyedriver said:

DBL-R, 

I also have an early model LE I (2008 - #14) with the same plumbing configuration up front and for years, I dealt with the potential back flow of grey water into the shower pan if the handle for the valve on the back wall of the shower was not adequately closed before travel and the spring actuated foot valve was open.  Then, many years ago, a good friend, Larry Gamble, of Little House Customs, fixed the issue by installing a HEPvO valve and magically solved the back slosh issue.

The HepvO valve is a one way valve which closes like a duck bill and prevents the grey water from backing up into the shower during nose down or deceleration while braking.  Now that handle on the shower wall is always in the out position, allowing water to drain from the pan into the tank and the HEPvO precludes it from making the return trip.  I've removed the foot actuated drain plug and replaced it with a small sink screen to catch any small items and prevent them from gumming up the HEPvO valve.  

Larry said the clearance to install the HEPvO was very tight, but with his skill he managed to get it done anyway.  He's retired now making music instead of bending wrenches, but there should be some skilled RV mechanic you can find to make the same modification on your trailer.

Good Luck,

Pete

 

[bugeyedriver]

The configuration beneath my front dinette seat differs from yours a lot.  While you have a furnace in that area, I have one of my favorite things about The Wonder Egg, a 45 ft 30Amp extension cord on an electric windup spool!  My furnace is in the galley area, resulting in a loss of some kitchen drawers from your configuration.

Here are two pictures which will show the white HEPvO valve which Larry inserted into the PVC line from the shower to the grey tank. Good luck and let us know if you manage to have a HEPvO valve installed in your trailer.

 

[DBL-R]

14 minutes ago, bugeyedriver said:

The configuration beneath my front dinette seat differs from yours a lot.  While you have a furnace in that area, I have one of my favorite things about The Wonder Egg, a 45 ft 30Amp extension cord on an electric windup spool!  My furnace is in the galley area, resulting in a loss of some kitchen drawers from your configuration.

Here are two pictures which will show the white HEPvO valve which Larry inserted into the PVC line from the shower to the grey tank. Good luck and let us know if you manage to have a HEPvO valve installed in your trailer.

 

Thank you Peter, I took all of the drawers out and removed the sink faucet and sure enough the clog was due to calcium deposits.  I cleaned it all up and everything is working great again.  Little by little, we are resolving all the little bugs that come with a new camper. I am hopeful that if I fully drain the gray tank, close the valve and seal the shower pop-up, we may mitigate future shower backups, fingers crossed.

Ron 

[topgun2]

Bosker - 

Wow - that surely is tight in there.  No way your Dad could have gotten that thing in there.  Thank goodness he had Larry around to help him.😇

[DavePhelps]

On 9/14/2026 at 2:30 PM, DBL-R said:

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Hey Ron,

I've been offline traveling so sorry for late reply. I have hull 107, made 2015 so very close to yours!
Do you not have the pull out handle for the shower drain gate valve in the bathroom? It looks like you do from your pic (it's on the right). Unfortunately, to access the valve itself, it looks to me like the furnace needs to be pulled. If you follow the cable, at least mine disappears under the furnace to parts unknown. Can't even get a light and mirror in that space.... I replaced my popup drain stopper with a Tub Shroom to catch any hair going down the drain to help keep the valve clean and I will say it has worked incredibly well:
https://www.amazon.com/TubShroom-Revolutionary-Protector-Catcher-Strainer/dp/B01M0H7YC2/ref=sr_1_8?crid=12WS1LAY6YT97&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.g8t4bB4wE-ABrU2hIjG-OEf59IQDu4YYj74RxX4gRTRMO-pNC5YzIDgcdARM5gMkt3BeoqbZvhjC0tEboU3X7mtiNc5Z-RuOWtb48vaBAqBemKsaHlvIQ0yMVjT0EJE7b0NP8hNY4YhGsjs5sSIKkPnJokl_r4VPmEE919PljlNOccutEWvd_mtBsH4awR_DWdJz-VVEcBM33jVmOLN1eGtG4qOFgCW63nZ9_6rJ96Fo2y-rjo-OmLI_PFTg3Re2afIJ1G0H9gbnuK0IwlIAxxNYxKU-XUNAqircRMWU3DM.u6_Bk5YtKMGcGJKZ5RPjLbh4mWNzQwDDzzt0RzCjLnk&dib_tag=se&keywords=mushroom%2Bdrain%2Bhair%2Bcatcher&qid=1790815043&sprefix=mushroom%2Bdrain%2Caps%2C672&sr=8-8&th=1
 

That popup drain plug was not up for the job of resisting back flow, so the gate valve was added. I've never had a backup so far. Not sure but I may also have that HEPvO valve Bugeyed Driver was talking about. I have a vague memory about Jason telling me about it.

I add gate valve lubricant to the drain maybe twice a year as I want to keep the valve happy as it's inaccessible. Push the handle in to close the valve like all the others while on the road!

Not sure what else to add. If you do have the gate valve, run some house pressure hose water down the drain to try and clean it out and then pour some lubricant down the drain and work the valve open and closed to lubricate it well. A call to Oliver might enlighten you as the type of drain they used for your model. I think they were experimenting with different systems around that time so yours may be different than even mine.
Good luck!

Dave
 

 

 

 

[DBL-R]

Hi Dave, Yes, I. Have the pull handle near the toilet, but it doesn’t seem to stop backups from the shower drain.  You are correct about the cable disappearing into the abyss.  I am assuming that you had someone install the gate valve?  Once you had the gate valve installed, I am assuming that you eliminated the shower drain pop-up and then installed the TubShroom, is that correct?  I am headed back into the city tomorrow for our next trip,  I am going to raise the from as high as possible prior to closing the valve and then head to HomeDepot and pick up a new pop up seal, We’ll see if that helps.

Once you remove the pop-up cap how to you remove the stem that the pop-up screws onto? 

 

Thank you

Ron

Edited 17 hours ago by DBL-R

[Galway Girl]

The cable that runs from the valve to the handle has a set screw at the valve.  Sometimes they will loosen and the cable slides back & forth but doesn’t fully close the valve.  Check that by manually pushing the valve body  closed and the T handle all the way in…then re tighten the set screw. 
 

Here are 2 photos of the valve as setup properly in a 2019 EII. 

when closed for travel 

When open for camping

 

For the T handle remember 

Drive In ….Camp Out

hope that helps. 

[DBL-R]

Any idea how I can remove the center piece/stem in the drain (see photo)?  I tried a a little penetrating oil and flathead counterclockwise but it wouldn’t budge a

Thank you

Ron

[DavePhelps]

Ron,

My gate valve and the popup drain plug were all installed by Oliver. I've done nothing aftermarket save for removing the popup plug so I could use the mushroom plug. That screw should come out and your drain will look like mine. Try some PB Blaster lube on it. You could also try warming it up a bit to help the lube penetrate. Give it a few hours to work. That gate valve should stop any backflow. If you're still having that issue, then it is not closing properly. When you pull the handle do you feel some resistance? When it is pushed in does the shower drain still work or does it back up? (it should back up) If it just pulls out and pushes in with no resistance then the wire that attaches to the valve has probably come loose as Galway Girl mentioned. Unfortunately, for you and me, to access that valve, afaik, would mean removing the furnace. I would call Oliver and see if there is an easier way! Maybe that gate valve is somewhere else, I just have never been able to locate it. Hopefully the cable is still attached and the valve just need a good clean and lube. Hair is a real PITA with these valves, which is why I installed the mushroom plug in the shower.
Good luck and let me know what you find out.

Dave