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olderthandirt

Repairing Roof Seals

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Since it is time to de-winterize my LE2, I went online searching for the best way to repair any roof seals that I would find in need of repair. Here is a link to a Camping World page that has several videos that may help anyone who has questions on repairing the seals on a fiberglass roof using Dicor products.

 

 

 

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/dicor-self-leveling-lap-sealant-white/32125

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OTD


Former Owner Of  2016 Legacy Elite II Hull#138


2017 Silverado 2500HD High Country Duramax

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I've used that and it does work well. I don't think it is an especially easy to carry size or form factor. Is there a similar product that is available in a small squeeze tube, say 4 ounces, which would be much better for my emergency kit? I don't want to carry a big caulk gun.

 

Thanks.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Airstreamers live with leaks as part of the experience so they are excellent sources of information.  Sign up on airforums.com and search leak repair.

 

I use a combo of products...Dicor, Vulkem 116, Sicaflex, and Tolleys to keep my tin can dry.

 

When I added solar to the roof I had the installer use VHB tape instead of screws to eliminate yet another area for leaks.

 

Fiberglass trailers are a piece of cake to maintain and repair.


Current 2007 Airstream Classic Limited 31


2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II (Sold)


2016 Ram 2500 HD 6.7i Cummins turbo diesel


 

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Do a search for leaks on Airforums.  Airstreamers have to contend with a lot of leaks so they are a good resource for products.  Not kidding.  I own one and it's just part of the experience.  Dicor, Vulkem, Sikaflex, Tolleys, etc.


Current 2007 Airstream Classic Limited 31


2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II (Sold)


2016 Ram 2500 HD 6.7i Cummins turbo diesel


 

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What are you trying to seal?

 

Butyl tape, in many cases, is my go to. Yes, it's old school. But great seal,flexibility, won't be a hassle to remove.

 

Sikaflex also makes some great products. I shy away from anything silicone, and anything that's actually a high strength adhesive, instead of a sealant, where a sealant is actually what is needed.

 

Sherry


2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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Sherry, Like your tip on using butyl tape. We use white electrical tape while on the road, but will find some butyl tape, too.

 

OTD, Used Dicor self leveling sealant on a previous aluminum camper roof seam and it worked great.

 

Asked the techs at OTT during our last visit about white sealant used on the Ollie exterior and they said they use 3m 4000. It comes in 3 OZ and 10 OZ. Have one place to re-seal on the Ollie roof and plan to use the 4000 white sealant.

 

IMG_2554-M.jpg


Bill

LE2 Tundra

 

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While washing the roof, I happen to look down and notice the entry door rain gutter, I haven't had a problem from it just wanted to post a "watch out for"

 

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Randy


One Life Live It Enjoyably


2017 F350 6.7L SRW CC LB


2015 Oliver Elite II Hull #69

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I would put some Sikaflex in that crack.


Current 2007 Airstream Classic Limited 31


2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II (Sold)


2016 Ram 2500 HD 6.7i Cummins turbo diesel


 

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Not having to have done it before, can it just be put over what is there or do I need to remove the old first?


Randy


One Life Live It Enjoyably


2017 F350 6.7L SRW CC LB


2015 Oliver Elite II Hull #69

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I would remove the gutter and clean off all the old sealant then re-bed the gutter with a bead of the new sealant. It will make for a much longer lasting and reliable seal.

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GrayGhost


2015 Legacy Elite II Hull # 98


2016 Dodge Ram Laramie EcoDiesel


 

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Randy - I think the answer to you question depends (for the moment) on how much time and (possibly) equipment you have.  Since I do not have Twist here at the house and don't remember exactly how that "gutter" is attached there is a possibility that its total removal just might be a bit more of a job than you either have time or inclination to tackle at this point.  If that is the case then I'd remove as much of the old caulk as possible, clean ( and then clean again) what is left and then apply the sealant.  The idea here is to give the new stuff enough area to stick to that is clean so that it can stick.  GreyGhost is correct in that the "best" thing to do is to remove what you can and basically start over by removing all traces of the old stuff and cleaning the mating surfaces, but, sometimes (depending on time and effort) one is forced into doing a patch job which probably will not last as long.

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Randy, I would definitely remove that gutter completely, there is no doubt in my mind that the sealant has failed, and the other sections are now suspect.

 

The main concern is that the screws into the hull may not be water tight. Water ingress is likely, and possible freezing damage in winter. Take it off, redo it with 3M 4200 and you will not worry about it when you are lying in bed when the rain is coming down hard! Even if there were no other problems, you will then know that, instead of wondering:  is it, or is it not, leaking down inside the hull?

 

Read and follow the 3M sealant instructions exactly, do not use alcohol for initial or post cleanup! It will prevent the sealant from curing!

 

BTW, I suggest that you keep a close eye on your other outside seals, if the same person installed them, or used the same batch of sealant, they too might have problems like the door gutter, which in my opinion should be a "red flag" of warning to you.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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What's the advantage of the 4200 over the 4000?  Is it just the quicker cure time?


Snowball • 256 • 2018 Ford Raptor

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What’s the advantage of the 4200 over the 4000? Is it just the quicker cure time?

They are close to the same, both are medium strength. I think the 4200 is a little stronger adhesive, the 4000 has added UV resistance, here is a chart. I would go with the 4200 simply because you have more time to work with it and remove excess. It's what I have always used.

 

sealantchart.pdf

 

5200 is a much better choice if you are gluing parts together that probably will never have to be disassembled, like a boat deck to a hull.... it is pretty much permanent.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Thanks for all the advice. Going to Cape Breton next week, so after that it will come off and be completely replaced.


Randy


One Life Live It Enjoyably


2017 F350 6.7L SRW CC LB


2015 Oliver Elite II Hull #69

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As a temporary fix to stop any leaks I would pack some Butyl tape into the crack until you can get it done properly.  As Sherry said this is great stuff for stopping leaks, or sealing joints.  Not pretty but easily removed when you are ready to make a permanent repair.

 

Another great product for small repairs in fiberglass is Capt. Tooley,s Creeping Crack Repair.


Current 2007 Airstream Classic Limited 31


2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II (Sold)


2016 Ram 2500 HD 6.7i Cummins turbo diesel


 

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