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hellsbay988

No Water Kitchen Sink Faucet

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First thing I would try (depending on faucet) is to take off the aerator. Depending on water source they can and do get plugged. The next, if you have the sprayer type faucet, is the hose kinked? The aerator should just unscrew, but sometimes I have to use pliers. Just be careful because you can scratch the chrome...

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We recently had no flow to the toilet and just a dribble at the bath faucet. Both were clogged with hard water deposits. Cleaning fixed both. Mike


Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

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If I recall the plumbing correctly, the kitchen is a tee off the pex going to the bathroom, so it sounds like it's faucet related. Does the hot water behave the same?


Randy


One Life Live It Enjoyably


2017 F350 6.7L SRW CC LB


2015 Oliver Elite II Hull #69

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Yep - since the kitchen faucet is the closest to the water heater and usually gets used the most, I'd also bet that "stuff" from the water heater has clogged the aerator.  On an old camper I had to not only clean the aerator but also leave it off for a few days and clean out the water heater in order to fully correct the problem.  The only other possibility that I can think of wold be a faulty valve in the faucet itself - but, that is fairly unlikely.

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Yep – I’d also bet that “stuff” from the water heater has clogged the aerator. On an old camper I had to not only clean the aerator but also leave it off for a few days and clean out the water heater in order to fully correct the problem. Bill

 

After our “clog” event I drained the hot water tank to replace the anode. I was surprised how much “stuff” was in there as I gave it a good flush. Mike


Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

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Is the "filter" the screen at the end of the faucet? If so, maybe you could soak the whole unit in a solution of a product simular to Lime-a-way. (There are a lot of  home made solutions that work too, distilled white vinegar usually involved). Mostly you see them advertised for a showerhead.

 

Maybe a messy step to try to see if that is where the problem lays? You could be off the city water and on the pump system. Shut off the pump. Remove the drawers. Disconnect the hose going to the faucet. Briefly turn on the pump. If water comes out the hose? Problem is surely the faucet. Guess an alternative is to replace the faucet, but would hope that is a last chance solution...

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I assume that the water filter to which you refer is NOT the one that is right at the water pump.  The one at the water pump should only be hand tight and should not need a special tool to get it off.  If the assumption is correct then, obviously, this other filter could be part or all of the problem.  Sometimes a "strap wrench" can be used to get those kinds of filters off, but, be careful in the amount of torque that you apply - you don't want to break one of the fittings that attach it to the pex.

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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I was able to remove the aerator at the end of the faucet with a pair of needle nose pliers. Opened the pliers and seated the ends into two of the indents in the aerator. Turned slowly keeping pliers engaged in the slots. Mike

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Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

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Wow - never needed a "wrench" to remove the aerator.  Perhaps the Canoe12 solution or "liquid wrench" in addition to Mike's idea.

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Used a small spanner wrench to get the aerator out.  Then I took apart the handle and blew compressed air into the small holes behind the cartridge where the handle goes.  Of course I disconnected the hot water hose behind the drawers.  A small bunch of gunk from the heater rod came out.  Aerator screen was also completely blocked.

 

Thanks again for all the help.  Now I need to service the water heater.

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Servicing the water heater is a piece of cake.  However, it takes a bunch of water and is easier if you get one of those "flushing" wands that are sold for that purpose.  Glad you found the problem and got it fixed!

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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That’s what I love about this forum. A member has an issue and immediately the members provide solutions to the problem.

 

Got to love the Oliver gang

 

it also helps me when I have a problem and I remember the discussions here at the forum. And since they are all specific to Oliver’s it better than looking for solutions somewhere else.

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Maybe it is now worth a trip to HF.  Just found out I don't have a spanner wrench in my tool kit, and I definitely NEED one. My needle nose pliers might fit, but why take a chance?

 

The "stuff" clogging the aerator was probably more minerals(calcium), that precipitated out of the water supply during the heating process, than coming from the sacrificial anode. I was surprised at the amount of material that I had to remove from the waterheater when  we winterized and it had only been used 8 months at the time. We also use a combination charcoal/particulate filter just before water enters the trailer. Anodes, I wouldn't replace one before it was a wire with about an inch or two of material left. The more little holes you see in one means more surface area it has, and the better it can do it's job. It's job is to sacrifice itself, rather than the more expensive water heater.

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I might be wrong, but, I don't think that there is such a video here.  However, the replacement is easy.  The anode is towards the bottom of the water heater and usually has a "yellow" smiley face type drawing on it.  Note the orientation of this drawing in that it will help you get the correct amount of torque or tightness on that "bolt" when you screw it back in.  Using the appropriate socket (deep socket is better) and perhaps even an extension on your ratchet wrench un-screw the anode and remove it from the water heater.  Note that before you start this process the water heater should be off and you should have "released" and pressure in the water heater by lifting the latch on the water heater safety valve.  Once any water that was in the heater has drained, flush the heater by squirting water into the hole from the anode rod until no more "stuff" comes out.  Then wrap two or three wraps of teflon tape around the threads of the anode rod and re-insert.  Be careful to NOT cross thread this.  Once you are sure that you have not cross threaded then use the socket and rachet wrench to tighten things back down.

 

Sorry, I do not have the torque specs nor the size of that socket (it is something like 15/16th and is the only relatively large "nut" in that area of the heater) right at my finger tips, but, if you use that drawing I mention above you will be close on the torque.  Hope this helps!

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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The correct socket size is 1  1/16 inches, best to use a six point socket, also I am not sure of the torque specs.

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Horace & Dianne

Chesapeake, Virginia

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2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull # 93

 

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The anode is towards the bottom of the water heater and usually has a “yellow” smiley face type drawing on it. Note the orientation of this drawing in that it will help you get the correct amount of torque or tightness on that “bolt” when you screw it back in.

I was wondering what the smiley face was all about!  I did pick up a 1-1/16 deep socket at Home Depot last week before I changed out my anode.  I think I’ll be cleaning out the tank much more frequently based on the amount of crud I cleaned out.  Camco has a flush wand that fits on your hose that’s about $5 on Amazon. I’ve also been looking at portable water softeners. They aren’t too expensive but not sure they are worth the trouble. Mike


Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

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hellsbay - yes, simply use the "winterization" procedure to bring water into your system, but do not turn the water heater by-pass valve.  Note that you will have to flush the water heater after treatment with the vinegar and in doing so you will also flush the other water lines as well.

 

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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A small long tube funnel will allow vinegar to be put into the water heater. Then let it set. That should help on anything sitting on the bottom. Don't be surprised if some flake off from else where in the heater later. The use of the wand should help, so spray it up and around.

 

The smiley face I have noticed on most of the plumbing fittings. I think that is probably put on by quality control as a way to signify that there are no leaks at that fitting.

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