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Waste Blade Valve


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I noticed in the Oliver Manual Maintenance Schedule that monthly I should be Lubricating the Waste Blade Valve. 

Slight problem, I dont know what or where that is or how to lubricate it. I searched the forums but can't find any mention. Does anyone have more details about this or does it monthly and can outline a procedure?

(I have a '18 LE 2)

 

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We are new very soon to be Ollie owners. In learning from members on this forum and other Ollie owners locally this is a good product to add to your black and gray tanks to help with lubing the blade valves you mention. Other owners will hopefully chime in. I have a few bottles of this and plan to use it per manual directions. I am sure there are other products out there, but this was highly recommended to me by a few Ollie owners/friends it has decent reviews. 

 

 

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Edited by Patriot
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18 minutes ago, Patriot said:

We are new very soon to be Ollie owners. In learning from members on this forum and other Ollie owners locally this is a good product to add to your black and gray tanks to help with lubing the blade valves you mention. Other owners will hopefully chime in. I have a few bottles of this and plan to use it per manual directions. I am sure there are other products out there, but this was highly recommended to me by a few Ollie owners friends. It has decent reviews.

Hope this helps.

 

 

9A6749F7-F5D0-4C54-94CD-3EA87E7EF4CB.png

Thanks, Patriot. I was just outside lubricating the zerks in the Dexter E-Z Flex, so my mind was thinking something totally different by way of lubrication. I will give this product a look. 

It has to be easier than crawling under the trailer with a grease gun!!!

 

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Yep - that's the stuff (there are a couple of brands that are similar).  I only use it a couple times a year and all seems to operate smoothly.

Bill

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Ditto on the Thetford drain valve lubricant.   We've been using it for the last year on our Ollie.   I typically just pour a bit down the sink drains on each camping trip.   There is also another lubricant from Thetford specifically for the seal on the flush toilet that you pour in the toilet and let sit for 8 hours or so (Thetford RV Toilet Seal Lube & Conditioner).   I use that as well on the day before we leave for any of our trips and let it sit.  So far no problems with any of the seals or valves.  

Edited by FrankC

 

 

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The actual  blades, black and gray, are lubricated when you apply the drain valvelubricant.  However, you may find despite adding the blade lubricant, the valve becomes difficult to open/close.  The cable occasionally needs to be greased.  Not real difficult, but not easy to undo the cable, slide it out, put white lithium grease on it and put it back.  The valve handle / cable will be much easier, so know that if the valve may feel stuck/sticking, it may be your cable.   

good luck

coy 

Edited by hardrock
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/16/2020 at 11:01 PM, hardrock said:

The actual  blades, black and gray, are lubricated when you apply the drain valvelubricant.  However, you may find despite adding the blade lubricant, the valve becomes difficult to open/close.  The cable occasionally needs to be greased.  Not real difficult, but not easy to undo the cable, slide it out, put white lithium grease on it and put it back.  The valve handle / cable will be much easier, so know that if the valve may feel stuck/sticking, it may be your cable.   

good luck

coy 

I agree that the real problem is the cable. I did lube the gate channels by loosening the screws and dosed with  a spray can straw with some lithium or silicone spray (don’t remember exactly). It worked for a few operations then back to the default of being about 1/4 “ of full bottomed -out closure. The issue is the torturous cable path of the black tank valve with an insufficient straight final run to the slide valve. I haven’t lubed the cable but I think that is the best solution. I tried the coconut oil stuff and it didn’t solve the lack of full closure issue. 

Another “solution is just to remove the dinette seat and underlying hatch and just push the slide gate fully closed at the center near the cable termination. 

Edited by GarryandKristi

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2018 Oliver Elite II Hull 372

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24 minutes ago, GarryandKristi said:

Another “solution is just to remove the dinette seat and underlying hatch and just push the slide gate fully closed at the center near the cable termination. 

This is what we do.  

I’ve had both cables out to clean and lube.  The gate usually closes but we’ve found it a good practice to manually seat it after dumping.

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  • 4 years later...

Mine never fully seats.  Our first dump was quite a surprise. The hose was completely full from the valve not seating completely. I now manually close it at the valve under the galley seat. I also keep a gate valve on the end of the hose. It seems to me the cable is to short, I have it fully adjusted. I do have a replacement cable but just not sure how to run it through the maze of obstacles. Has anyone replaced the cable?

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On 6/14/2020 at 7:34 PM, Daecart said:

I noticed in the Oliver Manual Maintenance Schedule that monthly I should be Lubricating the Waste Blade Valve. 

Slight problem, I dont know what or where that is or how to lubricate it. I searched the forums but can't find any mention. Does anyone have more details about this or does it monthly and can outline a procedure?

(I have a '18 LE 2)

 

You need to purchase Valve Lubricant from Thetford. After emptying your tanks and before travel pour some in the toilet, kitchen sink, and shower drain. The sink and toilet will drain to the gray and black tanks and lubricated the valves which are at back end of the tanks. The shower drain will drain to the back flush blade valve, but make sure the handle in the bathroom is pushed on.

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