Refinishing Foy Sperring Bath Mat

[jordanv]

Just purchased a used Foy Sperring bath mat, it's super nice and looks a lot bigger in person than I imagined.

I would like to sand it, and re-finish it. Any recommendations here? We plan on keeping it in the shower during shower use as well, so something that could withstand showers, similar to teak shower boards in saunas/spas/steamrooms.

I'd asl Foy, but since Im still fairly new here, I couldn't figure out how to contact him directly.

[SeaDawg]

I suspect that Foy has already used a finish suitable for a shower mat, like teak oil. That's what I  use on our ipe mat, at home. Any additional finish you use should depend on what he used.

You really should ask Foy.

 

 

[SeaDawg]

Btw, did you get an answer?

For my outdoor teak and eucalyptus furniture,  we scuff up and recoat once a year.

The ipe shower mats haven't needed anything,  in almost 6 years.

[Mainiac]

Teak oil can bring gray wood railings on a sailboat back to a light teak color. More coats can make it darker and harder. A pressure wash and a good coat after dry, once a year, should do it.

 

[SeaDawg]

Mainiac, I  agree. 

I also think, with the many nooks and crannies on the shower mat, timely recoating with the original product (outdoors) would be my choice. 

We use aqua teak on our indoor shower, and the boat teak mats. Doesn't need refreshing,  often.  As in, I can't remember the last time we did the boat (teak) mats. In the house (ipe) is almost six years.

[Mainiac]

I refinished the stock of a rifle with teak oil, probably 40 years or so ago. Maybe 15 coats with rub of fine steel wool between coats. That piece still looks brand new today, and it gets used fairly often. A little effort up front will pay some long term dividends....

[SeaDawg]

41 minutes ago, Mainiac said:

A little effort up front will pay some long term dividends....

I totally agree 

Most good outcomes depend on prep, and process. 

Edited January 24, 2021 by SeaDawg

[Overland]

We have one of the original Teakworks mats. Originally I oiled it, but keeping it clean of soap scum was a pain so I coated it with satin polyurethane. I though I’d have to add some anti slip strips but it’s actually quite grippy on its own. The finish started to wear thin in a few spots after three years but I just gave it a quick sanding and two more coats and it’s like new. 

[jordanv]

Thanks for the tips everyone. Foy suggested I sand and coat with mineral oil. And possibly to coat with oil once a month when in use. 

[John E Davies]

Might I suggest that after fine sanding and prior to oiling, blast it with compressed air to get all the sawdust out of the pores. I prefer tung oil personally, it is pretty versatile and super easy to use. However, for my cutting board I just use the recommended (very oily) mineral oil, and I pour a little down each sink too, to lube the dump valve seals. Buy a big container, don’t get a small expen$ive bottle....

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John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited January 24, 2021 by John E Davies

[Jim_Oker]

8 hours ago, John E Davies said:

blast it with compressed air to get all the sawdust out of the pores.

I've always vacuumed (with soft brush) and then used a tack cloth. This is how I learned to prep when working for a few years in a commercial wood shop and it's been the consistent advice I've read for various products from spar varnish to epoxy to various oils etc.  Just fwiw...