Bathroom Faucet slow water flow

[Imelda]

Wow, I have an update on the blocked Dura faucet shower head. I removed the anode from the water heater to flush it out. I run the water heater of propane since we mostly dry camp so I have not checked the anode in a while. When I took it out all this junk came out (even though it hasn't been used) and the anode was down to the wire. (see pics) I was really surprised - so this junk may be the source of my clogged shower head water. I am replacing the shower head so I will see if that fixes it. So now I have to jump on a water heater thread. 

My questions are: 1. If I am using just propane why did this anode perish?  2. Could I remove the anode and just have a drain plug and continue to use the propane? 3. How do I stop the rust forming around the drain plug seen on the pic? 

[Steph and Dud B]

The anode is necessary whether you heat with gas or electric. You need to replace it to protect your tank from corrosion.

[SeaDawg]

The anode is intentionally made of a metal that erodes more easily than your tank material, to keep the tank whole. Your anode did its intended job. 

It doesn't matter whether you run the water heater on gas or electric. Dissimilar metals will create a chemical reaction called electrolysis that will eat away at metals. Better that it eats the anode than your tank.

I suspect your hard water has more to do with the anode's rapid demise than anything else. Draining your water heater tank before storage will help it last longer,  as well. And, as a bonus, you'll see how much your anode has eroded, and replace it as necessary. ($20 for an anode is much cheaper than replacing a water heater. Don't buy the super cheap ones. They sometimes aren't made to erode as quickly as they should.)

You'll likely want to start using that filter to fill your tank.

 

[Geronimo John]

On 12/28/2021 at 10:37 AM, Frank C said:

Dura Faucet RV Kitchen Faucet Designer Toggling Pull-Out Sprayer Replacement

Hard water can easily calcify those really small nozzles thereby reducing flow substantially. 

 

[Geronimo John]

For owners with hard water sources, some of the defensive measure are:

• Filtration of incoming water.
• Frequent vinegar de-calcification.
• Lowering the hot water temperature set point.
• Using a city water pressure "L" shaped flushing wand to flush solids from your hot water tank.  Use it more than just at end of season!
• Keeping a good quality anode in the hot water heater.  If you see wire, you waited too long.
• Remove faucet aerators and wands for vinegar cleaning at least annually.
• While you have them removed, full flow flushing your lines one at a time.  Do hot and  cold flushing separately, not at the same time.
• Avoid very hard water sources when you can.  Or at least don't fill your fresh water tank full if you can get by with less.
• Fully drain and flush your water systems at the end of the season even if you do not winterize!
• Consider wands that have bigger holes.

 All of the above will help reduce problems.  But if you find that they don't, you'll need to consider using a water softener to lower the hardness of water from all your water supply sources.  Here is one of the reviews for the ten best water softeners for RV's.  

https://buyersguide.org/water-softener-for-RV/t/best?Country=US&m=e&d=c&c=659084136666&p=&oid=kwd-2066914159841&lp=9032812&li=&nw=g&nts=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pTq4CWP-deBiQy2P_b4K_q0yn0LBGjkFPVOQI0RMo0TMsFYO411bcxoC-wUQAvD_BwE&tdid=10957326&gad_source=1

GJ

PS:  For an OE2 you do not need a 16,000 grain water softener.  Take a look at what other owners are using via our forum.  

Edited May 2 by Geronimo John
PS to avoid overkill!

[Mike and Carol]

13 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

PS:  For an OE2 you do not need a 16,000 grain water softener.  Take a look at what other owners are using via our forum.  

We use a 3.2K grain softener.  Fits in the basement standing up.  Lightweight.  Check Amazon, we got it probably 6 years ago.  Mike