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I really messed up.  dewinterizing I forgot to turn the valve allowing fresh water to enter the water heater.  it got very hot..   now after opening the valve and filling it with water the pressure relief valve is spewing water and I can not get it to reseat.  do I need to replace the pressure valve?  or is there a simpler solution

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Do you know why water heaters have a relief valve? Because otherwise they can explode violently. Consider yourself lucky.… if your shore power switch is on, you probably fried the electric heating element. Those are cheap. The valve should reset after cooling, I am not sure why yours did not. You can buy one at any hardware store.

Good luck.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

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SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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SkIpster:

Here is all we know about your rig.  

image.png.077d15e0bc12bf4fabd783f7bc81b21e.png

Trying to give you great advice is really difficult by not at least knowing your trailer or TV info.  For examples, see John's above or mine below   Errrrrr my profile for examples.   

If knew that info I might indicate that for that vintage trailer, it is time to replace your Temp Pressure Relief valve.  But I don't.  So all I can say is:

You were really lucky. 

Once a Temp/Pressure relief valve reaches about 5 years old, with good maintenance it IMHO is at the end of it's life especially if is has actually been activated.  If serviced and a good anode is always in play, ten years is my recommend must change out recommendation.

But can't say either because your Ollie and TV info is unknown.  Please add both to your profile info and we can look it up.  Also please add it to the tag line as JD has above. 

Added suggested TV and Hull info below.  It's easy.  Just go to settings in your account.  At the bottom is Signature.  Edit there.

GJ   

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TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  image.jpeg.9633acdfb75740f0fd358e1a5118f105.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

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@Skipster, everyone who drags a trailer around eventually makes a mistake (or two, or three, or a hundred) of some sort. Don't be too hard on yourself. You'll never do it again, I'm sure, and you didn't start a fire, thank goodness. Scarey mistakes like this make us all more cautious about checking and double checking...well, everything. 

If you shop around, a replacement suburban isn't that expensive, but getting it installed can cost $$$  You may need a new one. Is the water heater leaking anywhere else but the pressure relief valve?

Try the replacement valve, first. 

Ps, I looked at your old posts. 2021, hull #822. Newer Ollie. If you need help updating your profile and signature, just send me a pm. 

Good luck.

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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5 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

@Skipster, everyone who drags a trailer around eventually makes a mistake (or two, or three, or a hundred) of some sort. Don't be too hard on yourself. You'll never do it again, I'm sure, and you didn't start a fire, thank goodness. Scarey mistakes like this make us all more cautious about checking and double checking...well, everything.

Agree with SeaDawg, don't be too hard on yourself. When we were teenagers, we plugged a home trailer into electric power before putting water in the hot water heater. The hot water heater element got so hot, it deformed & electrified most metal parts on the trailer, making it a shocking experience to touch the trailer. To this day I remember that when ever working with electric hot water heaters. 🙂

 

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Bill & Debbie / 2015 LE2 #75 / 2024 F-150 5.0L / North Carolina

 

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@rideandfly, I'm actually always grateful when folks honestly post the items they overlook, as we do.

It's really helpful to newbies. 

No one is born with a complete camping "gene set." It's learn as you go. 

Reading manuals and watching the videos available now (like Oliver University) is great.  (Even then, stuff can get overlooked, or lost in the shuffle.)

You and I  didn't have those as kids. Good news is, we're still alive to tell the tales. 🙂 !

when we share mistakes and overlooked items, we help others as much as when we share successes, imo.

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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@Skipster, FYI, you can edit your post by clicking on the 3 little dots on the top right of the post. You don't have to reply and quote yourself to add info. Glad it's working out for you.

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Stephanie and Dudley from CT.  2022 LE2, Hull #1150: Eggcelsior.

Tow vehicle: 2016 GMC Sierra 6.0 gas dually 4x4.

Our Oliver journey: Steph and Dud B's RV Screed

Where we've been RVing since 1999:

ALAZCACOCTDEFLGAIDILINIAKYLAMEMDMAMIMNMSMOMTNENVNHNMNYNCNDOHOKORPASCSDTNTXUTVTVAWAWVWIWYmed.jpg.b96241bad6752dec89d25af6ffbc8d99.jpg

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