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We bought our first Travel Trailer in early 2008. It was Oliver Hull #026, one of the first group of 46 Oliver Elites built between 2007 and 2009. As some of our members probably already know, the trailer line shut down in late 2009 due to a dramatic sag in the economy. No employees were laid off, instead they were moved into other areas of Oliver such as the tub line. Standard equipment on one of the original Elites included a satellite dish on the roof, an electric cord reel that automatically rewound the power cord back into the body, air conditioner, heater, television, audio system, microwave, refrigerator, outside retractable awning, bathroom and three electric leveling (yes, leveling) jacks. Some of these items had optional availability on other fiberglass trailers (Casita, Bigfoot, Escape, etc.) but not one of those manufacturers had all of them as standard equipment and a good many items on that list were not even available at any cost. All this on a trailer that was selling for under $30K. The electric leveling jacks were the absolute stand out among the fiberglass trailer crowd. No other fiberglass trailer manufacturer even offered them. But with them, you could stabilize and level your trailer with the touch of only three buttons. And, as Sherry stated, the rear jack switches were located near each tire and the jacks could be observed while operating them. As the new Elite II builds were coming together it was realized that the outside body molds were different from the ones in the old Elite and the area where the Elite rear jack switches had been located was completely different and there was no place for the switches to go. They asked where they should be mounted and I had them place mine in waterproof boxes built into the sides of the trailer. I also had them extend the wiring from those switches into the left and right areas of the overhead cabinet in the rear. After delivery, I used that extra wiring to make remote inside switches to control the rear jacks. I did the same for the front jack. Now we can comfortably setup or breakdown in the rain using the controls on the inside. Sometime in early 2015, about a year after we had taken possession of the first Oliver Elite II produced in 2014 (Hull # 050), we were at the factory for some reason. John Oliver, (Jim and Evon’s youngest and only child) who was over production of the trailer line at the time, approached me and asked my opinion on a modification they were planning. The placement of the rear jack switches had always created an issue and their new plan was to move them to the front of the trailer where they would be near the front jack. “Now”, he said, “all the jacks can be controlled from a central area. What do you think?” My reply was that I thought it was a “...terrible idea.” I explained that you need to be able to observe the jack while operating it. He disagreed. I told him that I would hate it and I figured the future owners would hate it and the company would have to eventually backtrack and move them back to the rear. It took a while for them to do something about it but I can’t tell you how many times I was questioned by owners as to who thought it would be a good idea to put those switches at the FRONT of the trailer. And now you know the rest of the story...

I got the idea of moving the switches while watching @shhQuiet's videos. It does seem there are positives and negatives of the two (or three) locations. I have lots of chores I need to do on the camper so I can put this on the back burner and think about it some more. Thanks everyone for your imput, Tony

MAX - please do not be a stranger (well, at least any "stranger" than you already are 😇). I'm sure that you didn't let the pups go with that fine Ollie of yours! DAVID - you've got a really nice Oliver there. We'd be happy to help in any way we can. Bill

Welcome to the dark side Art!😜

Greetings, All! We'll D and I went over to the "dark side" and sold Casa Blanca to a great guy from near Kerrville, TX, David Knight. Please welcome aboard @Kpaladin David into the Oliver family. We're now into our next chapter of RV'ing and starting new adventures with our 2026 Brinkley I 235. It's totally "Victron'ed" out and includes 600A-Hrs of Epoch LiFePO4s and 800W of solar modules. We'll stay in touch! MAX Burner

Epoch Lithium Battery Storage Info- I reached out to Epoch Battery Lithium battery customer service (Stockbridge, Georgia) regarding our recent install of (2) of Epoch 300ah (self heating) batteries in our OLE2 and correct SOC during short term winter storage. They responded quickly and this is the guidance they provided. This information is for anyone that now owns or is considering a swap at some point from aging AGMs over to Epoch 300ah batteries. Epoch recommends 1-6 months in storage a 50-70% SOC. Epoch does not recommend leaving the batteries plugged in 24x7 via 30amp power and maintaining the batteries at 100% SOC during storage months. Just passing it forward!

No, a voltage regulator is not advised for the Starlink mini because it already operates from 12 to 48 volts DC. As was the jest of this thread, it's actually necessary to boost the voltage if using the supplied long cord in a 12 volt system due to the voltage drop. When I started this thread, I had one of the first Minis and there were no accessories or aftermarket options to allow it to work on 12 volts without either boosting the voltage, or shortening the cord. So I utilized a robust Vctron voltage booster that's wired to turn-on whenever the Mini is plugged in. I still use that system and, IMHO, it's still the best and simplist way to go. Of course, you can always use the supplied AC adapter that puts out 48 volts DC if you have an inverter, but that will suck down your battery a lot faster. These days there are more options and shorter cords if your mini is going to be mounted close by. However, it's often necessary to move the Mini further away for it to have a clear sky view, and in such case you need to boost the voltage to account for voltage drop from the longer cord. Some people use a POE injector (Power Over Ethernet) that can supply power through an ethernet cable that is plugged into the auxiliary ethernet port. Others use portable battery packs. I make snap-in re-chargeable battery packs for taking my mini to other campsites and such, but they have limited battery life. Because the Mini has a built in Router, it looses WiFi signal, and thus internet speed, the farther away it is. Mine is hopelessly slow if I use the entire cord length. So a great accessory is the Starlink Mini Router. They are inexpensive, and you won't often need it. But when you have a situation where your Mini is placed farther away for a clear sky view, then the router will save your day! See my post "The New Starlink Mii Router, for what ails you." So you will need to decide how you want to power your Mini based on how you plan to mount it and use it. Then you can make an informed decision on how to power it. Hope that helps! Geoff

A friend sent me a link to a YouTube channel — it’s focused on reviewing RVs and helping RV buyers get refunds or assistance / fixes from the manufacturers when they have purchased faulty RV products. (I think she sells a book.) Apparently the Big Three manufacturers own a huge number of “brands” and she says they don’t stand behind their products. At the end of her video, she notes that there are independent companies that are not affiliated with the Big Three brands. Oliver is at the top of her mentions of good products.

Our 2008 has the switch at the wheelwell, just above each wheel and jack. Pros and cons to each placement, I guess.

Valid concern, gonna research the issue for my own personal understanding.

I hear you for sure. But as an ole brown shoe engineer I beleive that glittering glossy covers don't often meet well with realities of life. Said differently: There is now no doubt that the Ceibo will work with the remote control systems listed. It matches the IR techonology and that is a given. What it does not say is that the functioning of the system "Will Do No Harm". So the real question that it does not answer is: Was the start/stop impact of the Cielo system cause any harm to the A/C in the process? I would bet a $1 Cielo did not test 175 AC brands and at least 4X that all models of AC's to make the case. Hence my Wait and See approach. Yep, I'm ole school for sure. But I'm not from the "Show Me" state, but love their motto! GJ

IMHO: YES! A master switch and a fuse is recommended. That said, MANY of the OE2's were wired with 4/0 AWG with a 300 amp fuse from the factory. I am running three 100 Amp Battleborns using this set-up with zero issues. Your max load with the 3000W Xantres will likely be less than my 3000W Renogy. I believe the Xantres is more efficient than mine. GJ

Thanks for the post. Under Houghton it shows the below T-Remote. This is the same remote used by their 3400 Houghton (Low Profile Not Ducted: The one several of us are running) as well as their 13.5 KBTU ducted unit (Not low profile).

One can easily find out if the Cielo is comparable with their a/c by way of its remote. I did see that the Truma Aventa remote is compatible and there was one Houghton remote, as well. The following is from the Cielo website: Device works with more than 175+ AC brands covering 1800+ remote controls. To check your air conditioner’s compatibility with the device, go to the following link: http://remotes.cielowigle.com/and choose your brand and remote model number.

I share your frustration. The product very cleaverly SOLVES the humidity issues, and gives owners greater flexability in operation of their A/C as well. However, there likely are more than a few reasons for the majority of owners to "wait and see". A big one, as I posted in the previous thread, is not knowing how numerous hard shut down and restart cycles per hour will be tolerated by the existing control boards out there. Or probable warranty impacts on new units. Not being able and willing to mod their unit as some have done with the Houghtons for about $50 in parts. Not wanting to add another complicated device in their lives. Not being able to install the device, or trouble shoot it should it fail. My hope is that manufacturers get the message that they need to provide the remote T-stat and fan control features as standard features. Oh, and in my dream state, design the units to be able to use an internal condensate drain system! Please don't wake me up. GJ

I agree that the small plenum area is a root cause of noise from most RV a/c units. Why? It precludes space for proper turning vanes and insulation as you stated. I also agree that the outside portion of the noise is not a prime concern for newer designed units as we are seeing now on the market. But for the 95%+ of the units that are still out there hammer milling away... their uninsulated and non-vibration isolated designs certainly do make inside livability an issue. While on our month long Florida tour this past October, in Key West we were parked for a week next to an older Casita. Their ancient A/C noise inside our OTT was distracting. I could only imagine what it was like inside their trailer. But then I suspect due to their hearing aids it likely did not impact them at all.....

Section 551.71(F) of the NEC is specific to RV parks only so not applicable to your situation. And as @Snackchaser stated, wiring to only one side of a double breaker is fine per the NEC. Might not be needed though if your local AHJ hasn't adopted the new code yet.

With our lithium battery voltage ranging up to 14.4 volts (when equalizing) would inclusion of a 12V voltage regulator be advised? Something like was recently posted for the Max Fan by RidenFly? It is rated at 60 watts as well.

As the 30A RV receptacle passed inspection when the original structure was built, and since I cannot find a 30A single pole GFCI receptacle, or a 30A single pole GFCI breaker for my Square D Homeline panel, I am hoping the inspector will leave it alone. Also, further research suggests that it arguably is not a "branch circuit" but a dedicated "feeder" circuit solely for the travel trailer, and so may also be exempt from the GFCI requirement on that basis. Below is a note to Section 551.71(F) of the NEC, which reads, in part: "GFCI protection shall not be required for other than 125-volt, 15 and 20-ampere receptacles used in recreational vehicle site equipment." The note reads: Informational Note No. 2: The definition of Power-Supply Assembly in 551.2 and the definition of Feeder in Article 100 clarifies that the power supply cord to a recreational vehicle is considered a feeder. These plug-and-cord connections are considered to be feeders, not receptacles. Since feeders are not required to have GFCI protection for personnel, the requirements of Section 210.8 would not apply to them. One rationale offered for this exemption is that: " the high current would cause nuisance tripping of the GFCI due to normal leakage currents from the RV's appliances." I have verified that the balance of the electrical installation meets or exceeds current code requirements. So, I plan to request an inspection and see if the inspector calls out the dedicated 30A RV receptacle. If he does, it appears my only option would be to install a 240V 30A GFCI breaker in my Square D Homeline panel, but wire only 1 leg of it to the 120V dedicated RV receptacle, per Snackchaser's suggestion above. Thanks for your input!

Amen to that! Not doing the check and moving Ollie ultimately will make you cry....

I felt the same way with the Houghton. But learned that it appears that over time the remoted thermistor and unit would track actual cabin temperature much closer than I thought. Try selecting a temp and let it run for an hour and then check the accuracy with a reliable thermometer. What I had been doing was making changes to the setting and expecting to see a result soon. Would love to know how they do that.

This is a confusing topic even for some electricians, but adding a new 120 volt, 30 amp RV outlet in your garage, or outside, will require GFCI protection per 2023 NEC. However, adding a building extension usually does not require that you update existing wire to code. That would be up to your particular jurisdiction. Most of the common home panel manufactures offer 120 volt, 30 amp GFCI breakers for around $60. Check your panel label because many have interchangeable breakers like Murry and Siemens or Eaton and Cutler Hammer. It's also acceptable to use one leg of a 240 volt GFCI breaker to feed a 120 volt circuit.

I thought I read something a while back that the new code requires GFCI protection in a residential setting but RV parks were exempt. Don't have a new code book but will see what I can find. Edit: looks like the updated NEC 2023 code 210.8(A) does include any 125 through 250 volt outlets installed in a garage or accessory building be GFCI protected. The code covering RV parks was not updated so only pedestal outlets 20 amp and under are still required to be GFCI protected. Contact your local construction services dept to see if they've even adopted the new code or not, and if they have, I would just install a 30 amp single pole GFCI breaker for that outlet.

Thanks for the additional coaching. The good news: the jack is stuck in the up position / no manual cranking needed. Mossemi, thanks for the location/pics of the jack fuses. I'll think good thoughts and hope its just the fuse.

I have prepared this post in the hope of saving any of you who do your own electrical wiring from going down the same "rabbit hole" I just did. Per the title of this post, 30A RV receptacles (outlets) are not required by the NEC (National Electrical Code) to be GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) protected. How do I now know? Read on. I am wiring an addition to my detached garage, where I store our Hull #1291. When the original garage was built, the NEC (and Idaho Code) only required ground level 120V 15A and 20A outlets to be GFCI protected. The original garage passed electrical inspection, because the one and only ground level outlet in that garage was a GFCI. The 30A RV outlet next to it was approved, even though it is not GFCI. The 20A garage door opener receptacle (on a separate 20A circuit) near the 14-ft. ceiling was also approved without GFCI, because it is so high off the floor. So was a separate 15A lighting circuit, which feeds other receptacles at ceiling level (into which LED UFO lights are plugged), as they are all 14 ft. off the floor. When adding circuits for the addition into the existing subpanel in that detached garage, I checked for amendments to the NEC relating to garages. I knew that when you add to an existing structure, the entire structure must usually be upgraded to meet current electrical code. I learned that the current code (pun intended) requires that ALL 120V receptacles 50A or less in a garage must now be GFCI protected, even those high in a ceiling. The apparent reasoning behind this change is that some folks plug pull-down cord reels into garage ceiling outlets, which brings electrical power down to a level where contact with a wet concrete floor could produce a shock--thus the perceived need for GFCI protection even in garage ceiling receptacles. So, I believed I had to add GFCI protection to all circuits in the original and new structures, either with a GFCI outlet closest to the panel on any 15A or 20A circuit, or with a GFCI circuit breaker in the panel. There are 15A light circuits which have receptacles, because the LED UFO lights plug into ceiling receptacles, and 20A garage door/outlet circuits in that garage, along with the aforementioned 30A RV outlet. But, I could not find anywhere online either a 30A 120V GFCI receptacle or a 120V 30A GFCI circuit breaker (I found 220V dual--pole 30A GFCI versions, but no 120V single pole ones), and our 30A RV outlet is 120V, as it must be to enable connection to an RV. Why? Further research informed me that 30A RV receptacles are exempted from the general rule that all 120V receptacles 50A or lower in a garage must be GFCI protected, regardless of how high they are off the floor. All I could find through a Google search is that such 30A receptacles in RV parks and campgrounds are exempted, so 30A 120V receptacles in garages are likewise exempt. So, it appears I can leave that 30A RV receptacle alone, and it should pass inspection. I invite any more knowledgeable readers to correct me if I am wrong, or to explain the reason for the exemption. I just find it curious....