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Hi Bill (et al) - Thanks for the suggestions, I will open a case. To answer your question, for the same reason Ollie owners replace their trailer's springs when they might otherwise appear to be in good shape 😀 Or maybe I'm just paranoid with too much time on my hands? Anyway, I'd like to keep them out of the trash for the time being, at least. It seems to me like they might make a good 'just in case' spare to have. They are small and don't weigh much. Thanks, best Tim

Getting ready to head out to San Clemente state beach. The trailer barely made the truck squat. This truck has some stout leaf springs.I’ll keep you posted about my drive.

Thanks; I'll call 'em.

This is my thought as well. I have really liked having a TT that fits exactly where my TV is and does not hangout wider.

This was discussed in the Escape forum, someone linked a replacement from Panther RV https://pantherrvproducts.com/3314013-026p/ You should give them a call.

Hello Looking for help to source a replacement Dometic 9500E awning motor. A local RV service center (Big Country RV, Redmond OR) investigated my malfunctioning awning (wouldn't extend) and said it needs a new motor assembly. However, they said awning is discontinued (so can't find a replacement motor) and quoted $4,400 for a new awning replacement. I'm hoping to source a replacement motor and I've found motors for the Dometic 9100 awning but none that specify for the 9500 awning. Perhaps they are the same motors but I'm not sure. In addition, if I can find a replacement motor it seems I might need a special Dometic hex key tool to adjust it. Would anyone know where to buy that tool? If I can't find a replacement motor then I'd like to install a manual awning and have it use the same mounting system my 9500 has so I can avoid new holes in the roof. Any recommendations on a manual awning? Thank you, Craig 2020 Hull 612

We upgraded from 1/2ton F150 with eco boost 6 for that same reason. The downhill compression breaking in the diesel engine makes a world of difference and no need for an Anderson hitch as the new truck has antiseay brake controls.

For most of the country the Tundra is fine. I've never had any issues with sway at all and as you say the torque and HP are more than adequate especially with the twin turbos. Colorado however can get a little challenging on the down grades, the 6 cyl engine just doesn't have the engine braking capability that the bigger trucks have. It's too bad that Toyota doesn't offer a diesel version in the States as they do in other parts of the world, political reasons most likely.

I vaguely remember needing to reset a parameter within the settings of the Xantrex to avoid that problem. The battteries blink When charging so that’s normal. I n our case the LOW Battery Cutoff Voltage setting was not set properly after an update to our system....and it would do the beeping thing. The settings are easily changed in a data table on your xantrex phone app. Your settings would be the column to the left of the red column below: LCBO Voltage can be set from 11.5-12.1 FURTHER INFO: Here's some data from the web: A beeping sound from a Xantrex inverter charger is an audible alarm indicating low battery voltage, an electrical overload, or internal overheating. The system uses the beep to protect the internal components and the connected battery bank from permanent damage. [1, 2, 3] Most Common Causes Low Battery Voltage: The battery bank has dropped below the low-voltage cutoff threshold (typically around 10.5V for 12V systems). This can happen if the batteries are drained, a battery cell is dead, or the charger is disabled. AC Output Overload: The continuous power draw from connected appliances exceeds the total wattage capacity of your Xantrex unit. This triggers a warning beep before the system shuts down to protect its circuits. Overheating (Thermal Shutdown): Poor ventilation, blocked cooling fans, high ambient air temperatures, or heavy prolonged loads can cause internal temperatures to spike. High Battery Voltage: An external charging source like an un-regulated solar controller or high-output vehicle alternator is pushing voltage above the upper safety limit (usually >15.5V). Bad Cable Connections: Loose, corroded, or undersized DC cables cause a sudden voltage drop across the connection terminals under load. The inverter reads this localized drop as a dead battery and triggers an alarm. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] Troubleshooting Action Steps Check the Digital Display: Look for error codes like E01/E05 (Low Voltage), E03/E06(Overload), or E04/E07 (Over-temperature) to pinpoint the exact failure type. Verify Voltage with a Multimeter: Test direct DC current across the battery terminals. If it reads under 12V, plug into shore power or run a generator to engage the battery charger. Shed Electrical Loads: Unplug high-draw appliances like microwaves, coffee makers, or hair dryers to see if the beeping stops. Inspect Physical Connections: Tighten all cable terminals. Clean off any green or white corrosion crust with a wire brush. Ensure the cooling fan spin freely and the air vents are completely clear. Perform a Hard Reset: Turn off the unit. Completely disconnect all sources of AC shore power and DC battery power for 5 to 10 minutes to reboot the internal microprocessors. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11] If you would like to pinpoint the issue further, please share: The exact model number of your Xantrex unit (e.g., Freedom HF, XC Pro, XPower). Any fault codes or lights flashing on the display screen. Whether you are currently plugged into shore power or running on battery power. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

2024 Elite II #1541 Good morning, Oliver owners. I’m reaching out to see if anyone has experienced something similar or might have an idea what caused the “beeping” issue we dealt with last night. Setup: Lithium Pro Package – 390AH Lithionics batteries 3000W Pro Inverter Batteries fully charged Connected to 30A shore power Progressive external surge protector plus the internal Oliver surge protection Around 11:30 PM, we woke up to a beeping sound but couldn’t immediately determine where it was coming from. We checked the CO2 detector, MaxxAir fan, and propane monitor — all appeared normal. The beeping would stop for 10–15 minutes and then start again. During one of the episodes, the Xantrex wall control showed a red light and was also beeping. Unfortunately, I didn’t catch the exact readings before the light went out and the beeping stopped again. The Xantrex app on my phone briefly displayed an alert, but it disappeared within seconds. I think it may have said something about high battery voltage, but I’m not certain. Here’s what I tried: Disconnected the external surge protector at the pedestal, thinking it might be the issue. Same results. Switched from the 30A connection to the 50A adapter connection. Beeping continued. Tried turning the batteries off, at which point I noticed the blue lights on the batteries were blinking. After that, the trailer power started cycling — lights, AC, and radio turning on and off intermittently?? I had assumed the trailer could still run directly from shore power with the batteries off, but that didn’t seem to be the case. Finally, I turned the batteries back on, left the trailer plugged into 50A shore power, and since then everything has been operating normally with no additional beeping. I’ll also post this on the Oliver forum for those not on Facebook, and I may give Oliver Service a call today. Any thoughts, similar experiences, or troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for your responses. I found a newer version of the installation instructions online. My installation instructions dated 09-24-2019 do not have the note on the drawing that the instructions dated 04-13-2021 have regarding what button to place forward. The old Ventline fan that I removed has a steel base. The butyl tape used to bed it had been built up under the front and rear of the base so as to conform to the roof curvature. Bill

issue resolved. We bought a Genuine Dometic Water Valve, it is now installed and working as designed.

Its the parent company, apparently. Affecting a bunch of good companies they've bought, including Reese and Tekonsha. Major RV Hitch/Towing Company Goes Bankrupt; DOJ Investigating - RV News https://share.google/kvLioMOy73cWpU6Z3

We did just that about 6 years ago. The butyl has held up just fine for us. Still loving that dome, and especially the light ring. Where the fan is located in an original Elite may not be as "curved" as the newer II's. I can't tell you, as I've not bern on the roof of a II. Modern butyl is pretty good stuff.

Tim - Please make you wish for a non- trailer (i.e. no trailers for sale or wanted) classified section here on the Forum known to Oliver. Might I suggest an email to Jason Essary and/or Scott Oliver. Why did you replace those latches if they were still in good shape? If I had that type of latch, I'd be all over your generous offer. Thanks a bunch for letting everyone know! Bill

Oliver mounted ours wrong, 90 degrees off, and it pops open on the highway. Follow the instructions.

The Tundra has plenty of torque and HP, so pulling is no issue. The limitations I experienced were in going down 6% grades or greater. It just simply feels way too squirrely for my taste. I also had many times where I felt like I was being blown around by passing 18 wheelers or gusts of wind. I got cut off on my last trip and had to lock op the breaks. The trailer tires were smoking and the momentum of the trailer felt like it was pushing the truck forward. The Tundra manual stated weight distribution required for trailers over 5k, I think the elite 2 with lithium ion batteries already exceeds that when dry. I’m pretty sure the Tundra was still within its payload capacity, but likely pretty much maxed out. The Tundra is a great truck, and definitely capable of towing the LE2. But for me personally it was way too stressful, and felt like there was little to no margin of safety. I can afford the new truck, so the price should be worth the better ride. We shall see, I’m taking it out for its first trip with the Oliver tomorrow. I’ll let you know if it lives up to my expectations.

@TimD This forum is not monitored by Oliver TT. You should make that recommendation to Oliver directly. Or maybe one of the monitrators can forward that one to OTT.

Hi all - Perhaps we need a 'free stuff' sub-forum 🙂 Just replaced the propane cover draw latches on our 2021 LE2. Accordingly I have two spares, in good used condition. I'm keeping one 'just in case'. The second one is available for the shipping cost. More info here: https://www.htfhardware.com//240-150-10702.html If you are interested PM me. Thanks Tim

Yeah, you noticed in my picture that I stacked an 8" Anderson block plus five 1" blocks for 13" total height. You want the height in the blocks so the jack only extends a few inches. These Barker jacks will extend 18" but I only want about half the length showing.

Do you believe this to be a measure of correctness? I wish OTT always installed accessories correctly in our hull, but their installers made several mistakes. When I first read "button toward the front" I also thought of the power button. But they show a sketch pointing at the release trigger with the wording, "position toward front of coach." If someone posts a different orientation, regardless of it being "installed at the factory" it would still be wrong. I thought the same thing for about 50 ms when I had the new flat fan sitting on the curved Oliver roof. Then I realized, one good rainstorm while highway towing and the butyl would blow out of the large front gap and you'd have rainwater all in the bathroom. Butyl works best for sealing thin gaps. You could 3D-print gaskets with a tall front and rear, if you have that capability. I wrote gaskets plural since the fan must be concave on the outside and convex inside. The plastic frame will curve in place, tightening it little-by-little patiently. I took the day to work ours slowly. A hot sunny day helps to soften the plastic.

By Pony Express do you mean Amazon? Are you sure it is a Dometic brand part. I'm with you in wanting to hear the 'click' like the original part. If not Dometic brand, time for another Amazon return and get the part from eTrailer, Camping World or some legit RV store. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dometic/DOM93FR.html A lot of hose clamps these days have 7mm screw heads.

The Dometic "Flush Valve Kit" arrived by pony express (3 days) and I installed it late last night. It is the proper part for our model of toilet. However, during re-assembly when I inserted it into the back of the toilet, it did not “Click” as mentioned in the Video or Forum comments. I pressed it in the best I could, but no “CLICK”, removed it and re-inserted the old one and “Click”… re-inserted new one, no "CLICK". I did however add the “second screw as was suppled”, so now I have (2) screws holding the “Flush Valve” in place. And what is with the worm gear clamps (existing & supplied), the heads are not 1/4 or 5/16's, sheeez but I did snug them up tight. This morning I will look for any subtle differences between the old and new Flush Valve. And I still have a very slight drip coming out of the back of the toilet where the “Flush Valve” inserts… I believe I have a work-around, in that I found out where I will re-locate Willis’s water dish. Maggie was not impressed. B~Out

Larger fridge/freezer is nice. Dry bath is nicer with a sink you can actually get your face/head over (as @jd1923 mentioned as a shortcoming in the Oliver). Always tradeoffs of course. Some tradeoffs are apparent (particularly regarding storage) and some are not. And of course, a brand-new company carries some risks as well. Not enough here for me to really consider switching even if I was in the market.

I am 6'3 and quite comfortable in the bed but I sleep on my side. The toilet area for me, however, it a bit cramped for my knees. Perhaps an elongated bowl would be better than the smallish round bowl that comes with it. Other than that, my LE2 will likely be with me for many years to come.