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Many owners with years of service of their Gray, Blalck and Vent valves find them more difficult to operate. Mine got to that point and I learned that the problem with mine and others on the internet is not with the cables, but with the slde valves themselves. I have attached a DIY for the effort that is a simple fix that can be done almost for just your time and likely tools and supplies you already have. Hope you find the below helpful. GJ DIY - Sanitary Drain Valve Cables.docx

Since I am getting the new APEX 23, I wanted to get a hitch that would provide some help for the rough roads we might encounter. It is the GH-2315 The BOSS TORSION-FLEX 2.5" Shank 7.5" Drop 1.1K TW 10K Hitch & GH-031 Dual-Ball. Getting excited. Hull #1738 APEX X23 in the making, Delivery Date September 14, 2026

@taylor.coyote, please post a picture when you have yours installed! Road tested, heavy monsoon rains on the highway, and puddles on the FS red dirt roads. Mud only in the wheel wells. Behind the flaps, no mud build-up. I've got some pressure washing to do next week!

Thank you, Garry. Decent price on this part! Not to worry, I had enough water leak down in the basement already. A lot comes out the hull weep holes and out here it all dries in minutes. BTW, re long "nasty looking" links. I delete all the extra characters after the ?-mark and replace the ?-mark with a slash (/). Then you can copy/paste a shorter version like this: https://itcshopnow.com/products/exterior-shower-service-parts/

@Boudicca908, the above is quoted from an earlier post of mine, page 1 of this thread. This was measured with Alcan Springs and the older 16" wheels which are 1/2" taller than the newer 15" wheels. I would say measure the height of your hull, to the top of your Dometic P2 A/C and add 3", or 4" to be safe.

https://itcshopnow.com/products/exterior-shower-service-parts?utm_campaign=gs-2022-01-13&utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22045544770&gbraid=0AAAAABSkRKi20j-rTiz8hmdaZS038ZTU5&gclid=CjwKCAjwyOzSBhBTEiwAmxvJ-mjQQfh7TiHQdheqRWzOQTgUzqKb5pQCZ6wZOJeMZbufqY5UqFFcpRoCVEQQAvD_BwE&variant=32367970320420 nasty looking link. I had my wife operate the shower handle outside while I looked under the hatch to see where the lead was emanating. I would tell it was from the center of the plastic assembly and not the hose. You might want to have a few shop towels if you do this to wipe up inside. Our leak weeped over to the basement area under the rubber mat.

Hey John, You were spot on. Once everything was assembled, the clearance between the shock and tire was fine. They did a decent job and the trailer rides well. Look forward to seeing you in October! Thanks again, Gregg

Me too. Dad was sent off to be European Sales Manager by his employer, a machine tool company. We lived in Wiesbaden Germany during the late 60s. Went back once in the 70s, did the backpack Europe thing all summer with my cousin. My siblings will only take trips to the UK and Europe, reliving their past maybe, as fly-over country is just not good enough. 🙃 Me, I like my fond memories as they were. I'll bet ya sleeping on the black sands of Santorini are not the same today as it was 50 years ago (on the back side of the island where the tourists don't go)! There was only one market/restaurant on the beach back then. We would eat pasta dinner with Greek salad for $.30 each. When they closed and turned off the lights it was pure dark, stars and shooting stars all over the sky! See the USA in the Oliver is our plan! 😎

What is the total height of the Oliver E2 with standard wheels and the Chill Cube?

Ours might need the same repair. Took an outside shower yesterday and when the faucets were on, shower head switch off, there was a lot of water coming out along the pull out hose, spilling inside and out. It could be the hose is just loose but as you found the part the hose connects to is often cracked. I won't look under the bed until we're home next week. Thank you for your post. Could you please supply a link for the shower assembly you purchased?

I can also recommend Suncoast designers in Hudson FL. We just had all of our sliders on our 2018 elite 2 done. They were hazy from moisture and/or mineral build up. They removed, cleaned reassembled and reinstalled all windows. They removed them early day 1 and had them reinstalled by the end of day 2. Cost for the 4 windows plus tax was $1,798. It is only $150 addional per window if new glass is required. One of the techs said he had done an Oliver prior to ours. They were very friendly. They have hookups so you can stay late afternoon to early morning in your trailer. I commented to the woman at the desk how quickly the work was done and she said summers are slower for them. There were a couple other class A rigs there during our short stay. We had a long haul from North Carolina, but a place I checked in Greensboro that does similar work quoted me a price more than double that of Suncoast and told me they would need the trailer for a month. He had said I wouldn’t be satisfied with just cleaning existing panes. Our windows cleaned and reinstalled by Suncoast look great. They have a lifetime warranty limited to the existing owner. They will do the same entire process but of course you either need to travel to their facility or ship the windows and remove and reinstall the windows yourself and pay shipping.

We had the same leaking problem with our 2018 elite 2. Yes, the shower box is riveted, and I am not sure what the rivet grin length would be since the back side is not exposed inside the trailer. But it is quite easy to replace the assembly within the box. It’s only $17 from ITC The key for me was to finally discover that what looked to be one piece hot and cold knobs with a press-on spline fitting actually has a pop-off cap that exposes a screw hole. The “aha” that’s what those 2 small screws are for in the assembly package. So 1. Remove the hot and cold knobs 2. Unscrew the outside retaining nuts just behind the the knobs 3. Go inside under the street-side forward hatch and unthread the hot and cold supply line and shower head flex line 4. Back out th’e entire assembly installation of the new assembly is essentially reverse although I secured the outside retaining nuts prior to reconnecting the inside hoses. Finally pressure check with a city water connection while operating. I believe the tube vent acts primarily as a drain as when I turned the knob(s) off water poured out. Since the supply lines would be under pressure, I am not sure it serves much as an anti-siphon valve. I think it just drains the mixing point downstream of the hot/cold valves. In the photos the new assembly is shown near the bed hatch.

Can you provide a pic that is taken from a bit further away from that panel?

3.5 months which is usually late October-early November until mid February departure for our annual Texas trip. This year we now have June 10, 2026 until September 23, 2026. This is due in part to 90°+ temps in the Midwest and a later fall trip up to the UP and the North shore of Lake Superior. Currently trailer is in storage and I'm leaving the trailer unplugged for 3-4 weeks to exercise the batteries and to see how long it takes to drop to 40-50%

Hey Scotty, first thing make sure your Dexter axles delivered are to spec. It's not simple to measure the Hub Face HF = 68.75, but the Spring Center SC = 50.50" is very easy to measure, center-to-center or edge to edge on the spring mounting brackets. Yeah, the shocks are close to the tires. I just went outside in the drizzle as we're camping, too muddy to measure, but reaching in it seems our shocks are about 1.5" from the tires, more than enough. What must be realized, regardless of axle measurements, is the top of the shock is mounted to the Oliver suspension steel subframe. The top of the shock is where it could possibly rub the tire and this mount is static regardless of axle dimensions. Where the shock attaches at bottom on the axle is nowhere near the tires. I copied a picture here, complements of @Boudicca908 taken in my driveway recently while working on brake wiring. No tire in the pic but you cannot find a better picture of the shock alignment with OEM D52 axles. In this picture I see 1 1/2” either side of the shock, square as could be! 😎 And he’s not familiar with the Alcan Springs which you are also installing. They will not budge, more than a mm, I promise you, your new axles on Alcans will NOT shift! But it's great you found a good mechanic that notices the little things! Given your axle measurements are correct, please go ahead my friend! 😎

We stopped at the south rim on our way to Durango .. to get some stuff at the visitor center.. Did not take Million Dollar hwy.. took the western side route down..nice trip…. It was not busy at Black Canyon…

Another update. After unsuccessful communication with Oliver Service, I went ahead and sourced the axles from a Dexter authorized distributor. HF = 68.75 SC 50.5 dimensions were matched by Dexter and they shipped the correct axles to the dealer. See below photos of original Redneck axle and the replacement labels. I learned that Redneck Axle was bought out by Dexter and my original axles were made in that plant in AL. Trailer is due for pick up tomorrow but wanted to get some opinions on an issue the mechanic brought to my attention. He said he was concerned that the new axle was a bit shorter than the old one and was concerned that the shocks may get too close to the tires during tight turns when the axles shift a bit. I lined up the old next to the new to compare the HF dimension and found it to be almost negligible. If anything it's an eighth of an inch total which would put it at 1/16" for each side. Sorry that I forgot to take pictures of that. The inner hubs are closer together but I don't think that would be a problem as many folks have changed from the D35's to the D52's with the larger hub and brakes and have not heard of this issue. For those folks that have done that change... (D35's to the D52's with HF of 68.75" and SC of 50.5") A.) Have you noticed the clearance between tire and shock being an issue while turning? B.) Even if you haven't it might be something to inspect. When I get the trailer back I will take it to a parking lot and do some tight turns both forward and backward and see if there is an issue. Thanks in advance, will provide another update tomorrow. Scotty

We also camped at Crawford SP. It’s nice to see the Canyon from both sides. We camped in the NP campground for a much more in depth tour of the other side. Mike

Look forward to more updates! This will be my next upgrade, I know someone local who has recent experience with an Oliver installation! 😉

First we were at site 15 at Zapata Falls. Black Canyon was great. We camped at Crawford SP. clear fork CG. By the North rim.. we hiked the trail to Exclamation pt. Then back about 3 mi. The canyon is gorgeous.. Then take the rim road and stop at all the overlooks..its breath taking….. side note visted Joe Cocker’s grave in Crawford.. we were big fans of him.. stay safe out there..

Great pictures, they all bring back good memories. We’re the opposite, we lived and worked in Europe 12 years (France, Belgium and Germany) and traveled extensively from Scandinavia to Greece and areas in between. Our goal was to retire and see the USA, especially as many National Parks and Monuments as possible. Mike

if I was to sell today I would ask what I paid for my trailer 10 years ago. That’s half of what a new trailer sells for today.

How did you like Black Canyon? Any hiking recommendations? We will be there in September.

I know this is an old thread but it popped up in my search when I was looking for something else. Your readings are off because the stick on tank sensors are positioned wrong. If you are very careful you might be able to very gently remove them and reposition but to be honest I haven't had any luck doing that, I always break them. New ones are around $70 (at least today). Positioned correctly they are very accurate. These are very expensive systems even though the Control Panel looks like cheap RV stuff. It's a relatively quick fix to be able to get a good reading on your tank level. Good Luck Rob

I haven’t looked at or around the water pump or accumulator yet - but I did notice the white “plastic” pipe that the San-T-Flush is plumbed with has PEX style fitting and clamp rings, and is stamped “SharkBite” - which is big in PEX, so I’m guessing it’s just a white or off-white PEX. I know we had PEX in red, blue, AND white(ish) at the hardware store I worked at.