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They come in 16's

Only thing I can find on the wheel is maximum pressure, not capacity. It’s probably in the operators manual. We have put many miles on these wheels, but for full disclosure, if we replace them and someone wants them, I have to post the maximum pressure. It’s going to be next year before I start on the wheel/tire project. Actually have two more Ollie projects before the wheel/tire project, I know it's easy to replace wheels/tires, but it's also according to $ available for AFE (authority for expenditure) projects, that's what we called them on the Railroad. 🙂

It wasn’t changed in 2016, we have the smaller spare.

Do they also print a weight rating? The OEM wheels are rated for 80 PSI, but 60 is all you need with margin. The OEM wheels are weight rated, don’t remember exactly, but the 4 added to 11K+, so with D52, Alcan springs on Load E tires and OEM wheels, it’s only Oliver frame capacity keeping these from being actual (not legal) 10K GTWR! I would hope the frame is also over-engineered! If it were me (not me, since our wheels living in the dry SW are very nice after 10 years), I’d buy these on Tire Rack, choose tires, have them mounted and Hunter Road Force balanced, shipped as a unit, 2-year hazard protection and shipping included! Then nothing easier than changing a ready-mounted wheel on an Oliver! https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/brands/sendel-towable

Here are the release notes for the current version, didn't see anything about earlier versions. Probably only meaningful to techies: https://lithionics.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/154000170433-firmware-release-v1-1-11-and-v1-0-11-for-the-internal-bms-batteries#:~:text=This firmware is-,specific,-to smaller batteries

My working life was in measurement equipment for NASA, three letter agencies and other spooky groups 😅 It would be interesting to see it broken in frequency bands. For whatever reason I suspect we’d see a response shift. Basically the suspension is a filter and we’re changing the parameters Anyhow I found a top drawer shop locally that specializes in trailer suspension so I’ll do it here this year, pending your data. I recommend a low hard surface like the floor to capture the from suspension output. Vibration might increase further up, and we want to avoid induced response from dirtying the signal. Might not matter either and we’re looking for order of magnitude anyhow but will be interesting Best of all is taping it to the frame directly if you’re comfortable with that

Good thought, I could the sell the old set. I only run 40PSI @ 5100lb ready to camp weight with the ION wheels that came on our Ollie. Another piece of interesting information is it looks like the maximum pressure for these particular wheels, 60PSI.

And you can likely get $100 used on the old set locally, or maybe an Oliver owner needs one?

I like the Lithionics. Just updated mine. I do wish the app provided a change log to tell you what the version changes are.

Agree, guessing the new 15" wheels may be about the same cost as refinishing and I like the idea of having a spare tire/wheel that matches the tire/wheels mounted on Ollie.

The new wheel looks great! It actually has a simple, cleaner look. If quality and weight rating is equal, buying 4 is likely lower cost and longer life vs. refinishing. Having 5 like wheels is a certain advantage vs. a temp spare that we must change twice. The 1/2” drop matters not on paved roads. Lower center of gravity another benefit. Thanks

John, I keep our Ollie on pavement most of the time except when a campground has dirt roads. To be honest I was thinking about refinishing the original 16" ION trailer wheels or replacing them with new 15" Sendel trailer wheels. I already have one 15" Sendel trailer wheel with a Goodyear Endurance ST225/75R/15 for the spare tire since the full size 16" LT225/75R/16 tire/wheel will not fit in the original spare tire housing, believe the Oliver spare tire housing was made larger during 2016 or 2017. I would lose about 1/2" trailer ground clearance by moving to the 15" tire/wheel using the same 15" Goodyear ST tires Oliver currently uses. Just a thought for now. I have another Ollie project in front of wheels/tires for next year. Here's the original spare with 16" wheel and passenger tire (not LT) that would fit in the spare tire housing on the left. The new 15" Goodyear ST tire and Sendel wheel is on the right that fits the original spare tire housing.

I haven’t made a decision, yet. I just said I’m thinking about it. No specific reason, just thought I’d be exploring all possibilities next time. I think I still have a couple years on my current Coopers. Mike

I'm sure the tires Gary originally ordered were fine, but... Discount Tire irks me in so many ways! I used to be a good customer of theirs but after so many know-it-all 20-somethings treated me like I was an ignorant newbe, and how they over-charge for "mount & balance" and overcharge for "hazard protection," I go anywhere else these days. 🤑 If they told me they would not mount LT tires I ordered on their website, but only ST tires, I would reply, "Sorry, not on mine! Please cancel my web order." (while walking out the door). For best overall price, I go with Tire Rack most of the time. If you're buying a wheel-tire set, they mount and balance, no additional charge. They include a 2-year hazard warranty, no additional charge. This add $200 +/- to the cost of a set of tires! The only benefit of going to DT is if you are the person who goes back for tire rotations or worries about service when out-of-town. They do have locations everywhere. Tire rotation on the Oliver is a 10-min job per side in my driveway. The Oliver stabilizer jack lifts both tires in a minute, grab the impact, run the air hose, and repeat on the other side. I always do the simple 'H' rotation vs. 'X' and the spare is a different profile tire. So in a way Gary got forced into his ST tire purchase and they are fine as designed. I purchased 15" ST tires for my flatbed trailer 5 years ago. I found there was ONLY one brand of ST tires NOT made in China, a Goodyear model, so be careful of this! We do enough on washboard dirt, so I'm always towing on LT tires. It's night and day with corner protection on these tires. If you're the Interstate driver heading to a campground with a paved pad, then ST tires are just fine, designed for towing on paved roads. Lastly, I'm wondering why Mike @Mike and Carol and Bill @rideandfly are both choosing to move to ST tires? What criteria makes you prefer ST tires?

Oh Lord but I love this group. On the way to have my new suspension fitted, I will have my newly programmed iPhone taped to the floor on the way to and from. Will post the data after. (Probably 4 weeks out...)

@DanielBoondock I would be interested in finding out what your vibration road test results will be. Please let us all know.

Great correction thanks, the post I got that from was misstating it Bingo, I talked about this above but kept it short so the post wouldn't get too confusing. Buffer is what I call margin, and exactly I mentioned that it's there for overloading (which happens) and impulse load (road conditions). As for the relationship between static and dynamic load, AI says (asking for cars as the models will be deeper on that topic, but its obviously the same) This lends me to think that the five spring, which I think Alcan suggests here, is the better choice. That's a 11k static load rating compared to 9k for the four spring. The axles are rated at 10k, but as the brunt of the dynamic force is taken by the sprung suspension, so being a bit overspec there isn't bad. So, five springs here I come ... tl/dr As for the counterargument that it will transmit more road shock and vibration, the true test is measuring it. Before/after vibration tests. Fortunately this is easy using your phone, Vibration Meter stores history and outputs CSV. Test procedure would be to Securely attach the phone to a hard surface in the trailer. 3M Velcro Command Strips to the floor Start measuring and drive Synchronizing before and after should be done ideally. Simplest is probably a 'clapboard marker' by just noting the time you pass a GPS coordinate or landmark Or don't be so precious, simply measure RMS I'll do this test by measuring on the same road(s) before/after

Couple comments from your observations. Alcan weight rating (capacity) is 2,750 for 5 leaf and 2,250 for 4 leaf. Weight rating is the designed weight at which a spring pack fails. As the same top four leafs are utilized in both 4 and 5 leaf versions, spring rate (a.k.a. “Ride”) remains largely the same even though weight rating is different. Spring rate is amount of weight required to deflect spring 1” when at ride height. While unable to locate any documentation from Dexter as to “buffer” capacity for their springs I was able to locate documentation from LCI (Lippert) which states that there should be a 20% weight capacity buffer between the total weight capacity of a set of their leaf springs and the curb weight of a fully loaded trailer. Reason stated for maintaining this buffer is to accommodate travel over uneven roads, curbs, potholes, dips and other occurrences which could temporarily increase the actual weight on a spring pack. 7,000x .8= 5,600. My trailer weighs 6,200 ready to travel. I chose the 5 leaf Alcans for my trailer and have been quite happy with their performance. I know a few others have chosen the 4 leaf versions and they seem happy with their choice as well. Either choice is a huge upgrade from the RV industry standard (dexter).

In my notes I have Alcan 5 leaf rated at 2,750 and 4 leaf at 2,250. Can anyone confirm these ratings?

No regrets here. Very happy with the ALCAN’s.

These Lithionics batteries are really top drawer, and priced to boot 😅I happened to come across a video yesterday showing why Generic Brand X: Typical cylindrical cell. Lots of plastic, zip tied and a BMS bolted on. Problem: Many weld points, many cells which need to be leveled, plastic construction can have heat issues and doesn't conduct heat. Glued tinker toy construction possibly more prone to issues in a trailer. Lithionics Large pouch cells for higher energy density, fewer welds and leveling. Aluminum for head conduction, integrated BMS which per OP has an app and firmware updates. Also they test and there's a lower internal battery impedance. Not to mention extra features like built in heating pad and on/off/status switch

For other newbs I went through about half the posts on this topic so you don’t have to. I think I captured the essence Summary Alcan are rated for 2k (8k total) vs 1750 (7k) for Dexter Spring rating depends on how well you do it (yes as an engineer this is the unvarnished truth). There’s no stock answer, they’re all approximations to the truth. Alcan is apparently known for using a well regarded approach (software I think) Alcan’s analysis of the 1750 Dexter is that they’re underrated for this trailer and the Alcan 2k is more appropriate One could surmise this is them ‘talking their book’, but so far the story has a ring of truth for a small shop that take their work seriously Alcans specialty is springs, OTT is trailers, I think Alcan has more authority here. In addition OTT has many considerations, supply chain being number one. Dexters are always available, easily replaced, come as a set with the axle, and if any owner wants an upgrade that’s available. So I think its entirely reasonable OTT is sticking with Dexter But in the matter of the best spring for the application I’ll go with Alcan The Alcan’s therefore have a better margin in case of overload and road stress - actually they have margin, the stock at rated for max with no margin And it’s only a (IIRC) ~15% stiffer spring, which isn’t a great difference For me, other than build quality the sell is that the springs provide margin without going into over engineered/overkill range. I was concerned that this is ‘bigger is better’ mentality but no, instead it’s just giving some extra room on top, which is generally a good idea. So I’m sold, I should be retired next year and will plan a trip to Colorado to have them installed. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/page/2/?&_rid=8320#findComment-103428 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/page/2/?&_rid=8320#findComment-103477 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/page/2/?&_rid=8320#findComment-103486 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/page/6/?&_rid=8320#findComment-103733 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/page/7/?&_rid=8320#findComment-103752 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/page/10/?&_rid=8320#findComment-104836

If you have Lithionics batteries, you should check their Firmware. Mine was three versions outdated! The latest version of Firmware includes upgrades and corrections to the Battery Management System (BMS) and State Of Charge (SOC) accuracy. The Firmware can be checked and updated with the Lithionics Application. Go to settings and pick “Firmware Update.” Then press the “Flash Firmware” button if you don't have the latest version. Be sure to up-date each battery.

First, every tow vehicle and load is different and everyone should be conservative and safe. Personally, I have been towing an 2018 Oliver Elite II without a WD system from day one (February 2018) with an 2016 Tundra and it has performed flawlessly. I did upgrade the TV brakes and rear leaf springs when I lifted the vehicle for even better performance. Alcan leaf springs for the OEII. I post just to say every truck is different and I am sure every lawyer will look at it differently. I enjoy towing with my 2016 5.7L Tundra keeping it simple, robust and safe. My only snafu was the undersized OEM coupler breaking coming up I-75 (upgraded to 12k). Whatever you are using; check the hitch, coupler, tires, wheels, load, WDS, etc. every time you head out onto the road. If you notice porpoising or tail wagging, etc. something is wrong i.e. Overloaded in the rear, tire pressure issue. DO you have trouble getting the TV and TT to sit level? If your vehicle manufacturer calls for it or if you experience towing issues as previously mentioned, maybe you need a WDS or to redistribute the load or a sway bar or upgraded suspension components, brakes, etc. I love this forum and all the information and smarter, more experienced people than I, but I don’t think it is necessary to be told you cannot do something. Cheers to everyone out there and be safe. Hopefully this adds to and does not confuse the conversation. Best, M Key 2016 Tundra Towing Details: Max Tongue Weight (Weight Distribution): Typically 1,200 lbs. Max Tongue Weight (Dead Weight): Typically limited to 600 lbs. Max Towing Capacity: Up to ~10,000+ lbs (5.7L V8), depending on configuration. Class IV Hitch: The standard integrated hitch receiver on the Tundra is rated to handle the high capacity.

That's what we had when purchased Hull #113 June of 2023. Except for a trial weekend, we did not start camping 'til 2024. I needed time to restore truck and trailer. In a little over 2 years, we have 180 overnights in our Oliver! 😎 Epoch Essentials and the Victron Multiplus II was our first major upgrade, cleaned up most of the electrical wiring. We keep our Oliver outdoors always. With our recent Chill Cube upgrade we can run the A/C late afternoons into the evenings using only 2% SOC. Our inverter is always running (-1Ah standby). We do not store or winterize and are not connected to shore power 98% of the time. The rooftop solar keeps us up when parked. Our Orion 50A DC-to-DC charger adds +200 Ah every half day towing. Have a 400W suitcase but rarely need it since we don't often stay put for more than a few days. Charging your EV truck towing downhill and charging your Oliver from the EV sounds pretty cool. I sold 4 LA batteries for $300 to a local who runs solar and about 60 old LA batteries for his off-grid mountain property. This is no time for LA batteries except for starter batteries on a diesel truck! 🤣