All Activity

I replace part of the bathroom hardware a couple years ago but don't recall the supplier. I did my research in the marine network to get good quality parts. I purchased Scandvik branded parts. I have found them to be excellent quality but spendy. I'm assuming the Oliver factory can provide you with options if you wish to have the same/ similar as the original parts.

Hi Dave, Yes, I. Have the pull handle near the toilet, but it doesn’t seem to stop backups from the shower drain. You are correct about the cable disappearing into the abyss. I am assuming that you had someone install the gate valve? Once you had the gate valve installed, I am assuming that you eliminated the shower drain pop-up and then installed the TubShroom, is that correct? I am headed back into the city tomorrow for our next trip, I am going to raise the from as high as possible prior to closing the valve and then head to HomeDepot and pick up a new pop up seal, We’ll see if that helps. Once you remove the pop-up cap how to you remove the stem that the pop-up screws onto? Thank you Ron

Hey Ron, I've been offline traveling so sorry for late reply. I have hull 107, made 2015 so very close to yours! Do you not have the pull out handle for the shower drain gate valve in the bathroom? It looks like you do from your pic (it's on the right). Unfortunately, to access the valve itself, it looks to me like the furnace needs to be pulled. If you follow the cable, at least mine disappears under the furnace to parts unknown. Can't even get a light and mirror in that space.... I replaced my popup drain stopper with a Tub Shroom to catch any hair going down the drain to help keep the valve clean and I will say it has worked incredibly well: https://www.amazon.com/TubShroom-Revolutionary-Protector-Catcher-Strainer/dp/B01M0H7YC2/ref=sr_1_8?crid=12WS1LAY6YT97&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.g8t4bB4wE-ABrU2hIjG-OEf59IQDu4YYj74RxX4gRTRMO-pNC5YzIDgcdARM5gMkt3BeoqbZvhjC0tEboU3X7mtiNc5Z-RuOWtb48vaBAqBemKsaHlvIQ0yMVjT0EJE7b0NP8hNY4YhGsjs5sSIKkPnJokl_r4VPmEE919PljlNOccutEWvd_mtBsH4awR_DWdJz-VVEcBM33jVmOLN1eGtG4qOFgCW63nZ9_6rJ96Fo2y-rjo-OmLI_PFTg3Re2afIJ1G0H9gbnuK0IwlIAxxNYxKU-XUNAqircRMWU3DM.u6_Bk5YtKMGcGJKZ5RPjLbh4mWNzQwDDzzt0RzCjLnk&dib_tag=se&keywords=mushroom%2Bdrain%2Bhair%2Bcatcher&qid=1790815043&sprefix=mushroom%2Bdrain%2Caps%2C672&sr=8-8&th=1 That popup drain plug was not up for the job of resisting back flow, so the gate valve was added. I've never had a backup so far. Not sure but I may also have that HEPvO valve Bugeyed Driver was talking about. I have a vague memory about Jason telling me about it. I add gate valve lubricant to the drain maybe twice a year as I want to keep the valve happy as it's inaccessible. Push the handle in to close the valve like all the others while on the road! Not sure what else to add. If you do have the gate valve, run some house pressure hose water down the drain to try and clean it out and then pour some lubricant down the drain and work the valve open and closed to lubricate it well. A call to Oliver might enlighten you as the type of drain they used for your model. I think they were experimenting with different systems around that time so yours may be different than even mine. Good luck! Dave

There shouldn't be any real struggle unless adding DC-DC charging. The trailer only pulls up to 12A when braking. Taillights etc. are negligible given LED lighting. There is the black wire on the 7-blade coupler which should be disconnected. Otherwise truck and trailer have mostly independent electrical systems. Given the standard alternator is 190A, the 350A dual on the same truck has net 160A free! The dual-battery HD alt upgrade option was first established for northern trucks to have enough battery power to operate a snowplow. DC-DC charging is one of our favorite upgrades, hands-down! Say you install the new Victron 70A Orion (with your new setup I would for sure go 70A) and you net +60A actual. That means for every hour you're towing you're adding a 60 Ah charge back to your house batteries. Tow a 4-hour half-day and that's +240 Ah, wow! The Orion 70A will need some heavy gauge wiring and should get +40 Ah even at idle! I posted this in another thread about electrical options earlier today. Also relevant here, something you may want to consider after getting your Oliver. OTT can do the trailer-side installation, but they don't work the truck side. Any auto accessory installer, a good truck shop, could work the full install, or DIY as many of us have!

Still heading towards rally. Visited Yellowstone and Grand Teton , now in Custer SD. site at Legion Lake CG

Yes, when I was researching I figured the single battery and standard 190 amp alternator would have strugled when connected to the trailer

Me too! I would never want to descend a mountain road without an exhaust brake, never again. But, if I could trade ours for a gasser, just for the month of October, we could afford the trip to The Rally! I’d have to trade it back upon return. Love our old TV!

This is an exceptional option! You could easily add the Victron Orion 50A or even the new 70A DC-DC charger with this 350A dual alternator!

Gotta love that T-shirt at the lighthouse! VID_20260913_193335769.mp4

We also moved from a 2nd gen Tacoma to a F250 and have been very pleased. As you know there are a million threads about diesel vs gas, but we really like our diesel. I think your driving style is important, we like to drive long distances per day and long segments between fuel stops and the extra range from the diesel is very important to us. Obviously diesel has some downsides as well, but we love ours. The only other suggestion would be to take a long look at a F350. We occasionally pack heavy and I would like the extra payload cushion. I dismissed a 350 without even thinking about it but might consider one now. The move up to a 350 isn’t that expensive, however depending on where you live licensing may be more expensive.

2026 Maine Trip - Sunset Point Campground - Lubec, Maine. The West Quaddy Lighthouse Beautiful Scenery during our Hikes \ Quick Trip to Eastport for the afternoon Campobello Island - NB This time we took our passports FDR summer home Short stop over in White Mountains of New Hampshire Cog Train - Mount Washington Alittle bit Windy at the Summit Shawna relaxing in the clouds This was our second trip to Lubec Maine and our first exploring New Hampshire on the way up and back. We are already planning our 2027 trip.

Yes, you have a viable system. Let us know more as you get real camping experience. The Black/Aux wire on the 7-blade connector is 12 AWG. A 10A charge/load is the high end. Neither the F150 nor standard trailer wiring is made for DC-DC charging. The original purpose for the black wire was power aux lighting in trailers that do not have house batteries. To be safe, I wouldn't use it and your rooftop solar on a sunny day is already giving you more than a 10A charge (to power the fridge)! I used 4 AWG wire to connect the 50A Victron Orion and some said it should be 2 AWG. Anyway, it's no big loss since through the years, OTT had never installed DC-DC chargers. Real DC-DC charging looks like this:

This will be fourth truck. Had a Ranger, Ridgeline and Tacoma. Towed a Casita with the Rideline. I'm ready for some overkill at this point

Thanks for the tips. Have two small dogs and a small parrot in a cage. If it wasn't for the small zoo I'm transporting, I may be able to get away with a smaller cab. LoL. 4x2 would be nice for ease of MX, but also need it for some of the crappy sand filled boat ramps around here

Welcome Greg, very exciting! It's going to be a long wait for May to get here... 🤣 Great to be planning your tow vehicle, asking for input early! I'm like the 1 in 1000 who lives in the mountains and tows with a 2WD truck. I'm not suggesting it but I do like the simplicity in maintenance, the weight is on the rears when towing. I enjoy the lower center-of-gravity when towing and the lower suspension does not require a painful process just to get into the driver's seat! Got out of the mud recently by lowering rear tire pressure to 30 PSI. I have gotten stuck twice (for an hour) in 3 years and 19K miles towing. I noticed "Crew Cab" in your description. Do you need that? Maybe you have two big dogs but then fitting in the Oliver would be your issue! Meeting other Oliver owners at Quartzsite or at the Texas Rally, I noted how many Oliver Owners use that back seat for storage, some to the point of, "Oh, what a mess back there!" Crew-Cab trucks often are matched to short beds and have less available GVWR (there's a lot of weight in 4WD and a crew cab truck). I prefer to keep our storage in the bed of our 8' long bed and keep our truck cab clean. There's only one dog, an induction cooktop and a pickleball bag in the rear of our cab, some shoes under the seats. We can take 4 out for dinner without too much trouble. We have the extended-cab with rear half door. I couldn't travel without the long bed. But I'm also in the minority here as you will find most have 4-door TVs with the short bed (except for some F350s)!

I remember when we placed our order and the excitement of all of it. As Mike said the forum is full of info on about anything you can think of. The folks on here are great with their willingness to help. Don't be afraid to ask your questions. We have an Elite ll (Hull1182) and we first used an F150 with the 3.5l Ecoboost to tow it. We towed it from Ohio to Maine and back, to Tennessee and back, to Alabama and back - you get the idea. The truck pulled just fine and we learned to live with the payload restrictions. As my truck got long in the teeth I ordered a 2026 F350 Tremor with the 7.3l gas engine. We just returned from three weeks in Maine and New Hampshire. Wow what a difference that made as far as towing. You couldn't tell it was there and made the entire travel experience much more pleasant. I know the F350 is overkill and plenty of folks out there towing with half-tons and a few with SUVs but now we don't worry about payload and I just always wanted one - lol. The gas mileage towing was the same as our F150 on this years trip to Maine thru the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

Greetings to the Oliver I spied on 9/29/2026, in north Cheyenne Wyoming near I-25 (driving past the Tractor Supply). Couldn’t see your license plate state, but your Oliver had the swoosh on the side.

Thanks for all the feedback. I have been having mixed feelings about the Rich Solar Components. Although I knew that was what was going to be installed, I assumed OTT had made the switch for all the new models (accept the Apex). Maybe they have and I am not correct about Rich Solar only going into some trailers. I am getting the impression that the components I have are actually pretty good and I think the only disappointment is going to be the lack of good app monitoring and control. As far as the DC-DC controller goes, no they did not do any vehicle wiring. It is all though the 7-pin. In fact, because of that I had tech limit the controller to 10amp output (jumper setting) to protect the truck's wiring and towing module. If the charger was trying to put out 20amps it might draw up 25+ amps. Not sure if the F150 trailer wiring was designed for that load.

Just to close the loop on this, I was banking on the fact that Oliver may eventually be able to get more weatherstripping from Lippert, however, it seems that that still has not happened. So we tried a couple of different solutions to clean the weatherstripping before ordering the black, and lo and behold a solution of bleach and dish soap brought things nearly back to the original white. Minimal amount of scrubbing. Soaked for about 20 minutes.

Comparing your hull to ours is of course night & day. 10 years ago ours came with 320W rooftop solar, a 2KW Xantrex inverter-only (PD charger in electrical panel) and 200+ lbs of lead acid! We kept the rooftop solar but replaced everything else with 6 Victron devices all on Victron Connect which is an excellent app. I like having control of the inverter/charger to set input amperage, turn on-n-off, etc. We have Epoch batteries and their app is awful, might not connect when SOC is low. Never heard a complaint on Lithionics here. They are expensive but you made a good choice in having 640 Ah. SOC% and amps +/- (in or out) are important numbers to keep your eye on via the app. I do not leave the Oliver for the day without seeing the -amp reading is small, meaning we didn't leave an appliance running. Some like displays, I like apps. 90% of the time I want to read these numbers, I'm either in the truck or somewhere outdoors, by the campfire not wanting to get up and climb into the Oliver cabin to look at a screen. Perhaps Rich Solar CS can help you with their app. One downside on Rich Solar is when you have a question on configuration, lowering the cut-off voltage or whatever, there will be not be the body of experience on our forum to help you. In your first post, you mentioned DC-DC charger. Did they install a Rich Solar DC-DC charger too? To have DC-DC charging there is also a tow vehicle installation. Was this done? I'd say you have batteries and perhaps electrical components equal to or better than most! @David and Gail gave you the thumbs up on Rich Solar quality and you have warranties on these products. Just as long as they perform as advertised and to your expectations. It would be interesting to know however, why did OTT install Rich Solar in your hull, and perhaps only your hull! Keep us posted!

I need to replace the complete bathroom faucet assembly in our 2018 OEII Hull 313. I have entered a service ticket asking what is used in current production models but has anyone found an assembly that works better than either the faucet used in current production models or the old original Dura/Ramco model F-N-MK853-SN? Bill 2018 Hull 313

Batteries - two 320ah Lithionics 12V (added 2nd one as option); A/C Houghton (RecPro) A3400, inverter runs it off batteries when not on shore power. I may be missing something, but so far, the BT apps for the Rich Solar components is a major minus. There is wall-mounted Remote for the inverter/charger. The app for the Lithionics batteries is great.

Two in one day! I've had that happen once but without a navigator I've got to keep my eye peeled on "other" things while driving. Bill

If you do talk to sales, please ask them if Rich Solar is their new brand of choice. I believe this is the first time we've seen internals of a 2027 Oliver. If not, ask if yours was some kind of experiment? (To answer the worry you expressed above.) Clean installation, 60A SC and 3K inverter/charger are good capacity. If Rich Solar has a decent Bluetooth app, this setup may be better than hulls built with a mix of brands; Xantrex inverter, Zamp or Victron SC and Lithionics batteries. Rich Solar brand batteries too, or Lithionics? How many Ah? What make/model A/C? Did they wire your A/C so it can run unplugged, on batteries only? I imagine you also have the induction cooktop which should be wired to run on inverter when shore power is not available. Yeah, every Oliver is a Jem! 😂

Welcome, Greg. As you get ready for you trailer, keep tapping in to the expertise here on the forum. We had a May pick up also, just in 2016. It’s a good time of year weatherwise. I agree with John on the 4X4. Depending on how you like to camp, it can come in handy. We’ve used ours. Your future truck sounds pretty good to me. There are some Ford drivers with the 7.3 gas engine towing their Elite II’s and they all seem to be happy. Mike