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We actually like the Velcro. I don’t know if others had this small storage area shown to them as a “secret compartment” - but I think the Velcro is more apt to keep it that way. Anyway - we go in that compartment so seldom that there’s not a huge convenience or time saving benefit for us. I’m also fond of leaning on that surface or putting quite a bit of body weight on it while extricating myself from the (king layout) bed. So making it readily movable will make it easy to bend those slides at least, and likely to send me crashing to the floor in the middle of the night at worst.

I don’t think I’ve seen any white plastic (PVC) pipe - only PEX. Where is there PVC?

Can someone check me if I'm wrong here --- since the EcoFlow input port 1 handles both alternator in and solar in, the dc to dc port on the x23 should be able to take an incoming portable solar, and shouldn't need an external charge controller because they're integrated into the hub? You will need an adapter for whatever type of plug your solar uses to the dc plug though. Edit: I've got a call in with Oliver tech support and they're going to call back with details tomorrow.

My windows may be a bit different. Mine font really have much of a “felt” liner. They have a rigid plastic inner track that is inside of the frame channel. I tried to (gently) pry it out, but it started to crack. I do have the pick set similar to what you used. I guess I could see if I can draw the sides of the plastic track in, the whole thing may lift out of the channel. It isn’t a “U” channel - more of a squared off “C”

Quite a difference in camping sites!

Over the past few days I’ve looked through all 39 pages of this thread. Very pretty pictures of “Where Is Ollie”. I have pictures of a not so pretty location. During late September, 2019 our Oliver was here for a few days We were parked near the base of this building A hint as to the location A screenshot from the campground’s website The next night after my one and only venture into NYC our Oliver was parked here. A much better looking location And then again in June of 2026. Libby’s Oceanside Camp, York, ME. One of our favorite campgrounds. Bill

Congrats!

Thanks for the context and pictures, it's appreciated!

On my Oli, I removed the rubber track cover and exposed the end of the felt track insert. I used two picks from my small O'ring pick and hook set to loosen the sides of the track and lifted one side of the track and then gently pull the one side up and rotated the track out of the slot. I was able to exposed the track bottom within about 3-4 inch of the center divider. I was then able to enlarge to drain holes and completely clean the inner track bottom. If you can get the Felt track insert up, then you will have a lot more room to get a small tube of chalk in the area and force it through the hole.

If anyone's got any thoughts here I'd appreciate it. Right now we haven't optioned either the solar awning nor a second awning. We don't boondocks un our current trailer, so we don't have a lot of context there. My thinking is that: 1) We'll park when boondocking where the awning is going to be much more useful on one side than the other. 2) The solar awning sounds great but just sounds like something that would wear prematurely, and obviously isn't flexible. 3) A 400w foldable + the roof solar should be sufficient if there's good sun. We've got some time to nail this down and would love people's thoughts.

@johnwen be careful of rigid connections to things that move or vibrate like at the water pump.

I'm glad a lot of people have had success with this mod, but we haven't. One variable that seems to be different is that we have Foy's extended pantry countertop. I don't know if it's heavier or what, but every time I take the trailer somewhere, the countertop slides open; it doesn't stay closed. Now I have to use a hook-and-eye fastener to secure the countertop since un-doing the mod is not an option.

Association Island campground on the shores of Lake Ontario in upstate NY. This place has an interesting history. The island used to be the General Electric executive retreat. Thomas Edison held court there. Now it's a campground surrounded by water (there's a causeway), but some of the original buildings are still there. The largest, which was a lodge, has been refurbished into hotel rooms and there are dozens of sites and cabins, including many waterfront sites.

Has anyone replaced their white plastic pipe with pex? These washboard roads on our Alaska trip are causing the retaining clamps that go around the female connector to come loose. The rubber/plastic clamps holding them to the pvc mounting boards are coming loose as the result of the the intense shaking....the screws are stripping out and allowing the connections to loosen. I'm surprised they didn't loosen enough to create a leak. I just think permanent pex connectors would be a better fix. Any reason to not replace. with pex? I haven't studied the layout to see where all that pipe is used...water heater, pump, etc, so I expect difficulties along the way. Just looking for a little advice now and I won't think about starting this project until stationary for a couple of weeks this winter. Might be a good time then to do my furnace ductwork replacement/reconfiguration project :) Thanks for all help, John

Excellent point! As others and self, the best position with the three-way is having fans in the upper vent whereby the fans blow outward and thus, pull air upward and out.

Good info above. Many have found that dishwasher pods work very well, as well. They are near zero-suds and store well for a year or so. Regardless after cleaning and dumping I rinse at least once to clean off any residue from the valve seals. GJ

As JD pointed out natural convection will be low to high. Adding the fan above to move that hot air out is from an engineering perspective logical. Doing so puts the refer cabinet into a slight negative pressure condition. On the flip side, for those of us with the three-way there is another more important reason that I feel needs to be considered. The three-way units may be used on gas. Burning gas can, and does, omit some by-products that can harm. Like CO for example. If you set your fans up as a pusher (Moving air into the refer cabinet, and your seals on the cabin side are not perfect (And NONE of them are), you would be in effect giving the bad stuff a direct powered path into the cabin. You and your traveling partners may not wake up as a result........ This is why mechancal rooms are properly designed to be negative air pressure to occupied spaces. If yours is pushing air into the refer cabinet, I emplore you to change it. GJ

Hanging out at Glacial Lakes State Park (near) Starbuck Minnesota. Our second time here as the campground hosts. Been here since the first of July and leaving the 29th. I saw a camp host at another campground that put out hummingbird feeders, so I thought I’d give it a try. This isn’t “elegant” by any means. I grabbed an old fishing rod and secured the handle end under the edge of the A/C - twist-tied it to the TV antenna to keep it from coming loose. (Extreme vibration of our love-to-hate Dometic Penguin 2) Hummers showed up less than 24 hours later. I have it rigged just outside of the rear window so we can relax in bed and watch them come and go. IMG_9854.mov

The ones on the 2027's are completely different and should not suffer this same fate.

For those owners that want to follow this story, please do so at https://www.facebook.com/groups/OllieOwners/permalink/2252240891847686/ I don't want to see this thread turn into "War and Peace" like the Alcan one did.

Yes, by the photo from FB these hinges are 2026 the awning style windows with the 3” opening at the bottom.

These windows on the 2026 models are the ones that only open 3" at the bottom. The 90 degree windows are only on the 2027 models and should not be affected as the design is completely different from the ones on the 2026 models.

Back to the drawing board on awning windows.🤔 The key question is are these the new 90 degree opening awning windows Oliver has since began installing, or the previous model awning windows that only opened 3” at the bottom?

I think I mentioned in a previous post that the shades staying tightly attached to the frames is dependent upon two things: The clips The channels on the back side of the shades On our problem child shade, one of the “fins” molded into the plastic frame of the shade is cracked. So there is no firm channel for the clip to snap into. I attempted to remedy this by moving the clip to a different position behind the shade. Unfortunately, once the crack on that fin is started, it creates a stress point that causes the crack to grow and extend to wherever force from the clip is applied. If the clip can be moved far enough away from the crack, you -may- solve the problem at least for a while. Though the shade doesn’t -always- fall off while towing, to make it stay up reliably, another method to hold the shade to the window frame is required.

Wow. Seems like OTT still hasn’t found a decent window.