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Very cool underbody lighting system.

Your 2023 is very different from a 2008.

Cool! I see it. whats the piece closer to the WH? Just a coupler?

Agree wholeheartedly with everything @Galway Girl says above! No issues with the glass turntable or the rubber (silicone I’m guessing) tips on the rack. Yes. DO use it when baking - just like your oven at home has racks. We use the Convection oven quite a bit. We’re not big fans of microwaves. We’ve use the microwave setting for popcorn and reheating something that we’re too lazy (or dirty dish frugal) to put into a regular pan. Two caveats for the convection oven: This ain’t your mamma’s full-size home convection oven. It simply doesn’t have the oomph of a 240v electric oven. I find that even using recommended temperatures, things seem to come out undercooked. Conventional wisdom is lower the temp 25F when using a recipe that gives you setting for a conventional, non-convection oven. I haven’t actually put an oven thermometer in there to check - but I guess one of these days I will. (“They” say you should do this with your home oven as well - thermostats aren’t always accurate!) My bigger concern - when cooking something for a long time - like a cake for 35 or 40 minutes OR when cooking at high temps - like 350 and above (heaven forbid a pizza at 400F!) - the oven puts a LOT of heat onto the shallow counter/shelf above the fridge. Hot enough to burn you. I worry that it could discolor, soften, or blister the surface. I’ve taken to sponging it down every few minutes Those points mentioned - using the oven on warm months WILL add a lot of heat to the inside of your trailer. That’s great in January in Wisconsin - but definitely not great in July in Texas. It would have been GREAT if the folks at OTT had thought of this and either vented the oven outside - or even more cleverly - set it up so you could vent the heat outside during the summer - and inside in the winter. (Another mod for our prototypers?)

The check valve is the second brass piece from the water heater, with two hex ends. If you magnify the photos, you can just see the directional arrow on the top side between the hex ends.

Theres a lot of brass pieces there. I’m assuming you mean the check valve is the first piece attached to the upper port of the water heater? Guessing the next piece after that is just a coupling to join to the tee? I’m not caring for the “quality” or robustness of that bypass valve. I’m thinking that if it is a weak spot in the system, and the check valve apparently is also a failure point - that it might be an option to replace the check valve with a plain old valve, and rework the bypass with a Tee and two valves? Not sure I’m ready to install a whole recirculating system at this point. I’m leaning toward 120v AC point if use heater(s).

We use our convection mode all the time. All parts are temp safe! The wire rack is used to hold items up off the glass turntable so hot air flows around the item being cooked. If you were put the item in the glass tray the bottom won’t be exposed to the oven heat…so Use the rack every time in convection cooking. (That would be like putting a pan on the bottom of a stove, not on the rack). The rubber feet are intended for high heat in the oven and are left on the rack. We bake things all the time in convection mode and they work well. For grilling we turn the rack so the tray is in the high position so what we broil is up high by the burner.

Over 5 years of owning this Oli and we have never used the Convection Oven function of the microwave. Planing on going to an egg rally and wanting to try one of my dishes that requires an oven. So I have a couple of questions. I was worried about high temps on the stuff inside the microwave. I was planning on using the grill rack with the little rubber ends on it to hold the food in the middle to get even dispersal of heat around food. Do I have to use the grill rack? (The only thing I have used the grill rack is to letting dishes cool down in our house, Never even stored it in the Oli.) Are the following safe at high oven temps? glass tray, turntable ring, turntable shaft, and little rubber feet on the grill rack? The manual talks about preheating the oven and then just putting the food in. If you leave the glass tray in convection mode and place cool cooking dishes on the hot glass tray could it break the glass tray? Sorry about obsessing about this I just want to be safe and successful. Thanks for your input.

https://www.rvtravel.com/resale-champs-top-5-rv-brands-hold-1271/ 009/26/2026 edition

bugeyedriver I'm a bit unclear. Your pics appear to be hilighting the valve and your fix to be in an area at the rear of the trailer. Our 2023 Elite 1 has the black tank valve up front, street side just aft of the interior bulkhead in the bottom of the compartmet that also houses the furnace.

I'm so sorry, that was not my intention! I just didn't want to see you treating them as non-maintenance sealed bearing hubs if they were in fact standard bearings.

When installing a hot water recirculation system, I found that the isolation valve had pinched the heater duct and worn a hole through it. There is a check valve at the water heater and you can see it in the photo above -- it's the brass spool piece and mine was stuck open. I removed both of them because in the unlikely event that the hot water heater ever needed to be isolated, I'd just shut off the water instead. The hot water recirc system is a great modification that has served us very well.

Yes... Saw the N R L on the dust caps for the axles. Whew... CRM... don't scare me like that! Scotty

I must also admit to being a bit puzzled by the plumbing. Turning ONE valve isolates the water heater? I guess I’m thinking of typical household water heaters. If you shut off the inlet (or outlet) you get nothing out of the hot water taps. With this plumbing - the water heater is out of the circuit - and your hot water taps give cold water? I think I read that there’s a check valve on the “other side” of the water heater that keeps pressure in the hot water line from backing up into the water heater(?)

We have pics from our first visit too, 21 years ago.

My wife would have made me stop for a pic for sure!

You must not recognize the icon Flintstone metal statue built in 1972 near Valle AZ, road to the south rim of the Grand Canyon! It must have been pretty cool back in the day! We didn’t go in but backed in for this special shot. I’ll bet Fred would have loved an Oliver! 🤣

Glad you got out! Situations like this is why having four wheel drive is at the top of my list for a TV. Won't go without a front hitch either.

We generally avoid anyplace with a sign like that. “Yogi Bear’s Jellystone Park” is a “must avoid at all costs” kind of place. I may not be ready for the “55 and older only” places - but we do try to steer clear of the places that cater to kids. We have enough aggravation from the adults that act like kids!

Hi all, For a change, I WAS able to use search and find a thread that addressed my issue. Anyway, when de-winterizing this past January, I found the bypass valve in the back of the Truma to be EXTREMELY hard to turn. Being buried under poorly-routed ducts in a tight spot where you can’t see didn’t help much. With what leverage I could muster using just my fingers got the valve -mostly- open and I was in business - sorta. We’ve been noticing that the ECO mode didn’t seem to work, and the normal/comfort mode only delivered lukewarm water. Finally getting around to what causes this, I learned that if that valve isn’t all the way open - it can cause the hot water to be diluted - causing our lukewarm water. Taking a pliers to the valve and much cursing of the brain surgeon who put that valve where he did, I got it to move a bit. But it’s clear that valve is toast and needs replacing. I’m not thrilled with replacing that valve with another one that is made so “well”. Anyone have leads for an upgraded one?

True, going higher gets you cooler temps - about 3F per thousand feet. At least it does in free air - near the surface the difference is likely less dramatic. But the summer temp differences between Southern and Northern states without throwing in altitude already gives you 15-25 degrees F depending on which sources you believe. To get a 21F drop in temperature -just- from elevation will take climbing up about 7,000 feet. We did this on our past trip. It’s not an issue for our turbocharged engine, but folks driving naturally aspirated mills will definitely see a drop off in power. Same applies to humans. In the mountains above Santa Fe, just walking from the trailer to the washroom can get a flatlander winded. Sure, if you’re in generally good heath and have time to acclimate, this isn’t an issue. As for bugs - Northern Minnesota actually has it pretty good compared to the Everglades. Even running 20 feet from the truck to the camper gets you a half dozen mosquito bites - even on a “moderate mosquito threat” day. I can’t imagine what it’s like when they say it’s “bad”!

Hokieman, This is good news. I didn't know about the type a pex, now I do. I'll probably do what you did and not worry about them coming loose again. Thanks for the help!

thanks for the pics... looking good

On the left are the standard D35 axles, 10" brakes. The hub is extended further out with the old standard bearings. On the right, we have Nev-R Lube axles with the flatter hub, protruding about as far as your lug nuts. Parts pic shoes the embossed Nev-R Lub dust cap and then before and after pics. With the Nev-R Lub bearings it makes sense to loose the big center caps which are no longer necessary, designed to fit over the original standard bearings. It would be nice if they made a flatter center caps, but emblems over the dust caps work fine.