All Activity

Over the past few days I’ve looked through all 39 pages of this thread. Very pretty pictures of “Where Ollie Is”. I have pictures of a not so pretty location. During late September, 2019 our Oliver was here for a few days We were parked near the base of this building A hint as to the location A screenshot from the campground’s website The next night after my one and only venture into NYC it was parked here. A much better looking location And then again in June of 2026. Libby’s Oceanside Camp, York, ME. One of our favorite campgrounds. Bill

Congrats!

Thanks for the context and pictures, it's appreciated!

On my Oli, I removed the rubber track cover and exposed the end of the felt track insert. I used two picks from my small O'ring pick and hook set to loosen the sides of the track and lifted one side of the track and then gently pull the one side up and rotated the track out of the slot. I was able to exposed the track bottom within about 3-4 inch of the center divider. I was then able to enlarge to drain holes and completely clean the inner track bottom. If you can get the Felt track insert up, then you will have a lot more room to get a small tube of chalk in the area and force it through the hole.

If anyone's got any thoughts here I'd appreciate it. Right now we haven't optioned either the solar awning nor a second awning. We don't boondocks un our current trailer, so we don't have a lot of context there. My thinking is that: 1) We'll park when boondocking where the awning is going to be much more useful on one side than the other. 2) The solar awning sounds great but just sounds like something that would wear prematurely, and obviously isn't flexible. 3) A 400w foldable + the roof solar should be sufficient if there's good sun. We've got some time to nail this down and would love people's thoughts.

@johnwen be careful of rigid connections to things that move or vibrate like at the water pump.

I'm glad a lot of people have had success with this mod, but we haven't. One variable that seems to be different is that we have Foy's extended pantry countertop. I don't know if it's heavier or what, but every time I take the trailer somewhere, the countertop slides open; it doesn't stay closed. Now I have to use a hook-and-eye fastener to secure the countertop since un-doing the mod is not an option.

Association Island campground on the shores of Lake Ontario in upstate NY. This place has an interesting history. The island used to be the General Electric executive retreat. Thomas Edison held court there. Now it's a campground surrounded by water (there's a causeway), but some of the original buildings are still there. The largest, which was a lodge, has been refurbished into hotel rooms and there are dozens of sites and cabins, including many waterfront sites.

Has anyone replaced their white plastic pipe with pex? These washboard roads on our Alaska trip are causing the retaining clamps that go around the female connector to come loose. The rubber/plastic clamps holding them to the pvc mounting boards are coming loose as the result of the the intense shaking....the screws are stripping out and allowing the connections to loosen. I'm surprised they didn't loosen enough to create a leak. I just think permanent pex connectors would be a better fix. Any reason to not replace. with pex? I haven't studied the layout to see where all that pipe is used...water heater, pump, etc, so I expect difficulties along the way. Just looking for a little advice now and I won't think about starting this project until stationary for a couple of weeks this winter. Might be a good time then to do my furnace ductwork replacement/reconfiguration project :) Thanks for all help, John

Excellent point! As others and self, the best position with the three-way is having fans in the upper vent whereby the fans blow outward and thus, pull air upward and out.

Good info above. Many have found that dishwasher pods work very well, as well. They are near zero-suds and store well for a year or so. Regardless after cleaning and dumping I rinse at least once to clean off any residue from the valve seals. GJ

As JD pointed out natural convection will be low to high. Adding the fan above to move that hot air out is from an engineering perspective logical. Doing so puts the refer cabinet into a slight negative pressure condition. On the flip side, for those of us with the three-way there is another more important reason that I feel needs to be considered. The three-way units may be used on gas. Burning gas can, and does, omit some by-products that can harm. Like CO for example. If you set your fans up as a pusher (Moving air into the refer cabinet, and your seals on the cabin side are not perfect (And NONE of them are), you would be in effect giving the bad stuff a direct powered path into the cabin. You and your traveling partners may not wake up as a result........ This is why mechancal rooms are properly designed to be negative air pressure to occupied spaces. If yours is pushing air into the refer cabinet, I emplore you to change it. GJ

Hanging out at Glacial Lakes State Park (near) Starbuck Minnesota. Our second time here as the campground hosts. Been here since the first of July and leaving the 29th. I saw a camp host at another campground that put out hummingbird feeders, so I thought I’d give it a try. This isn’t “elegant” by any means. I grabbed an old fishing rod and secured the handle end under the edge of the A/C - twist-tied it to the TV antenna to keep it from coming loose. (Extreme vibration of our love-to-hate Dometic Penguin 2) Hummers showed up less than 24 hours later. I have it rigged just outside of the rear window so we can relax in bed and watch them come and go.

The ones on the 2027's are completely different and should not suffer this same fate.

For those owners that want to follow this story, please do so at https://www.facebook.com/groups/OllieOwners/permalink/2252240891847686/ I don't want to see this thread turn into "War and Peace" like the Alcan one did.

Yes, by the photo from FB these hinges are 2026 the awning style windows with the 3” opening at the bottom.

These windows on the 2026 models are the ones that only open 3" at the bottom. The 90 degree windows are only on the 2027 models and should not be affected as the design is completely different from the ones on the 2026 models.

Back to the drawing board on awning windows.🤔 The key question is are these the new 90 degree opening awning windows Oliver has since began installing, or the previous model awning windows that only opened 3” at the bottom?

I think I mentioned in a previous post that the shades staying tightly attached to the frames is dependent upon two things: The clips The channels on the back side of the shades On our problem child shade, one of the “fins” molded into the plastic frame of the shade is cracked. So there is no firm channel for the clip to snap into. I attempted to remedy this by moving the clip to a different position behind the shade. Unfortunately, once the crack on that fin is started, it creates a stress point that causes the crack to grow and extend to wherever force from the clip is applied. If the clip can be moved far enough away from the crack, you -may- solve the problem at least for a while. Though the shade doesn’t -always- fall off while towing, to make it stay up reliably, another method to hold the shade to the window frame is required.

Wow. Seems like OTT still hasn’t found a decent window.

I found this posted by Jessica Taylor on the FB page. She does not seem to be a member here on the forum. It's not good news but it bears repeating for all the anti-FB owners. "Second camping trip since getting hull 1701 back to Alaska in May and one of our windows shattered while pulling into our campsite. Looks like the opening arms broke and may have come out of the slider bar at bottom of window and hit the glass causing it to shatter. The glass is broken, the arms are broken, and the sliding bar is on the road to the campsite never to be found again. We noticed on our trip home to Alaska and on our next camping trip that the windows work themselves loose as you drive, because of this event if you have a 2026 you may want to check window tightness often throughout your travels! Has anyone else had a window break on their 2026 Oliver? It’s the weekend so will call service Monday, but am curious if anyone else has had this happen. Have been 100% happy with our new camper except the windows. Bill is going to look at the window on the street side bed in a bit because it looks like that one’s arms are out of the slide as well and may be broken. Not happy with these windows at all. Not to mention the fact that I pray this tape doesn’t ruin the paint. Oliver Travel Trailers we will call Monday and I’m sure this will all get cleared up Adding again, all of the windows in the Oliver are broken this way except the bathroom window. We will have to tape all of the windows closed and possibly tape all of the arms down to the frame to get home without further glass shattering because the glass bounces freely and the arms move about freely. The arms seem to act as a shatter point when they poke the glass just right. I have just placed a service ticket on their website as suggested. I will also keep gaffers tape on hand from here on out as suggested. 2026 owners, be very careful when traveling. I’m not sure that constantly tightening your windows throughout your travels would have solved this. The arms are clearly not built to handle this job as evidenced by all of them breaking on a brand new camper." https://www.facebook.com/groups/OllieOwners/permalink/2252240891847686/

That’s kinda my next thought. With the inner/plastic “track” in place, you really can’t get too the hole where the screw holding the stopper is. Unless you’re an endodontist and used to working down inside small, wet areas. 😂 I figured I could cut off that end of the track as the stopper & screw fit down inside of it. That would give me a better look at the hole in the frame and the option of either replacing the stopper & screw and having better access to seal it and having the screw length be able to get a better grip. Or - just doing as you suggest with some waterproof sealant. And a pain? By all means. These windows are a disaster from design to operation. WHY in heaven’s name would someone design a window that is so fussy that a little dirt or some bits of tree cause it to leak? Even worse - making holes in the wet part of the frame to install things that are GOING to get bumped and dislodged. (Slide the window a bit too far open? You just compromised that weak seal. It really makes me wonder about Oliver’s selection of these windows - and some other accessories as well. The fiberglass hull is great - but not many of the things bolted onto it are equal to the hull.

I remember when we still had the DPll, cabin humidity reaching 80-90% some nights with the a/c running on low; contributed by the a/c, as well as our respiration. The dehumidifier we had at the time could not compensate for the excessive moisture. As you know the Atmos is much quieter and efficient in cooling, but it also handles excessive moisture much better with dedicated modes. And then with the Cielo Breez Max thermostat addition, humidity spikes are a thing of the past.

Sorry for the delay. Traveling myself. Short answer is: No. They have one with a long tail and without the male end. This one is like an extension with a male and female ends. Save the $$ and but it with just the female plug for the TV and a long cord to get well into your Ollie. GJ

I replaced a broken screen clip yesterday. $8.50 plus shipping for a one inch piece of plastic that must cost $0.02 to manufacture. Since I had it open, I took a picture of my wiring. Love the new switch. We can just leave the fan door open, rain or shine, for ventilation and push the button once for fan ON and push it later for fan OFF. 😎