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As with most things, I'm sure this is true. However, I believe in the acronym "Anything But China" (ABC) whenever possible. Often, China is the only choice. Current management is changing that now, if you know what I mean! 😎 For 30 years, I've purchased a lot of tires from Tire Rack. I can understand the draw to Discount Tire because they are everywhere you may need them on the road, but I find them over-priced and difficult customer service. Tire Rack includes a 2-year Road Hazard and in our area Big-O, Pep Boys and almost any tire shop will mount & balance for less money. If you buy wheel-tire sets, they also mount & balance at no additional cost. The other thing I like about Tire Rack is they are the only company that lists "Country of Origin" at the bottom of the Specs tab for every tire they sell. @John Dorrer if your friend with the new Oliver is still in the market for tires, I strongly suggest these at this price! Michelin Agilis CrossClimate LT225/75R16 These had MSRP of $260 each but are discontinued for the new version, on closeout for $189. I have these tires on our Oliver because it came that way. These are great tires for the Oliver, designed as a high mileage commercial van tire. I've towed our trailer about 300 miles on rocky Arizona dirt roads. The rocks on our roads are sharp. I know this because once I got a 4" cut into a rear dirt bike tire. We have about 18K miles in the last 2 years, and I have no idea how many miles prior owner(s) towed and the tread and sidewalls look like new. They are Michelin, and according to Tire Rack, Made in the USA! Anybody need new Oliver tires?

However, the GX and the Elite I would be a fantastic combination! Luxury on either side end of the hitch.

We’ve been using this one for several years - either set on top of the (closed) propane cooktop in the Ollie, or on a picnic table or small accessory (Lifetime) table: https://a.co/d/0aWqQ1by Though - the one you have looks a little sleeker. I stash this one on the second drawer on the left under the sink. We keep rolls of toil or cling wrap around it to keep it from shifting.

You don’t really have a robotic floor cleaner in your trailer?!

We're using this.... but it has a hard time turning around when it hits the end of the aisle. The dog stays off the floor when it's running..... Scotty

I guess they located the receptacle there for the earlier units. I think it makes more sense. That way the power cord doesn’t have to pass through and walls and all the wiring is in one spot. WHY they changed that is an interesting question. Perhaps someone was worried about moisture or corrosion?

I would love to get a group together and go up to glacier. I went by myself last summer and the hiking isnt as much fun by yourself.

I think lander would be an excellent spot for a get together. Sinks canyon has a really nice paved trail along the river, and the mountains have plenty of options for more fun and challenging rides.

Well - so far - the window leak appears to have been fixed. Been raining here for a couple of hours - not heavy - but it didn’t have to be to leak. I can see a trace of water through the holes in the plastic track - which is what I had seen previously - but none is leaking down the wall. That said - I’ll have to keep an eye on this as if I should open the window fully and it hits the stop - it may break that seal. I suppose that this winter I’ll have to put a slightly longer, thicker screw in to get a better grip as I think that only the first few threads of the existing one engage the metal of the frame.

We do that too with the carpet runner. That way I can walk around in bare feet. We found that in colder weather, it also keeps your feet off the cold floor.

Maybe the fronts being the leading tire take more abuse, first to hit bumps and bridge seams and potholes, etc. I've not noticed this before, though most of my experience is in auto applications that only have front-end wheel bearings. Given your hub temps traveling were good, I would not worry too much. Do your best to reassemble correctly. I don't use torque wrenches, but what you wrote looks good. I tighten and spin (and repeat) and try to place the cotter pin at or near the tightest point while hand-tightening with a medium length ratchet. Clean the bearings thoroughly. I rinse with old gasoline and then wash with Dawn detergent, using compressed air to blow clean and dry. Repack again using your packing tool and fill both inner and outer seams of each bearing with grease removing any air bubbles. I believe it's very important to fill grease between the new inner seal and inner bearing. Same for the outer bearing and the washer and I grease on and around the races. This way grease should not spin out of the bearings with use. Your grease looks a little odd, but it could just be the picture. The many brands of high-temp CV2 wheel bearing grease I've used always looks a very dark red or maroon in color and in your picture, it looks more orange. I did the same Timken replacement, but a year later upgraded to D52 axles and never did the follow-up repacking you are working. Wonder what the bearings look like on my old axles? (Still trying to sell them!)

Removed Ollie's spare tire housing again and firmly pulled across one area of tire tread to see if the spare tire had complete contact against the fiberglass hull. It moved a little, not as easily as @Dirt Duff tire. The wing nut was causing friction against the wheel, I thought the spare tire was tight contacting the fiberglass hull completely with the 225/75R/15 spare tire. Believe the same thing was happening with the original 215/60R/16 spare tire, too. Both tires were contacting the fiberglass hull previously in areas, but not completely. Cleaned the area on our camper where the spare tire contacts the fiberglass hull and installed four 3 1/4" diameter 1/4" thick door knob pads for the tire to contact like @Hokieman did on his spare tire. With two nuts still on the stud and four 1/4" thick doorknob pads installed on the hull for the spare tire to contact when tightening down the wing nut, the tire contacts all four pads with clearance left between the wingnut and two nuts. I'm keeping two nuts on the mount stud, but in some cases there could be contact between the second nut and wingnut on other Oliver spare tire installations like it would be on @jd1923 trailer, possibly due to small variations of wing nuts, mounts, wheels and tires. Really like the plastic disc @Townesw installed for the wingnut to contact when the wingnut is tightened against the wheel.

We are in the area as well (north Idaho). All for hiking. I had my go at mountain biking Moab a few years back, and that is when I realized I was not really a mountain biker (slickrock kicked my butt) 😄 We are on the younger side of ownership as well (pre-retirement but hitting empty-nester years).

Welcome @Douglas-Stickler to The OTT Forum and we wish for you a new Oliver in your future! This is correct and what @Steve Morris with his favorite Land Cruiser wrote "with the 5.7 V8, and it is just adequate" is also correct. The 200 platform, an LX or the Tundra would work, but sorry not the GX. We have a wonderful '08 GX470. Three years ago, after purchase of our Oliver, I setup our GX with a REDARC brake controller thinking I could use it as our tow vehicle. When I got home after a test tow, first thing I said to my wife is "We need to buy a truck." She nodded in agreement. Besides payload capacity or 4.6 vs. 5.7 towing power, there is another major issue. The wheelbase on the GX/4Runner 120 platform is just too short! Any porpoising movement in Oliver creates a BAD pendulum effect on the short wheelbase of the GX. The Andersen WDH helps a little, but using it strains the suspension front to rear. It feels awkward and uncomfortable. After driving just a few miles on an in-town highway, I returned home and detached. There is no way in the world I would tow down the mountain where we live in our GX pulling an Oliver. Chris drives our GX every day. After I restored it, she lets me drive it on occasion. 🤣 Hope you can keep your GX and purchase a 2500 series truck like we did!

I concur! @Ollie-Haus showed me this product last year and we bought two, one for home and one for the Oliver. We use the one at home every day and the other on every trip. They are usually $130, so this New price is very good. I purchased both of ours Amazon Used Like New for $80 each on Amazon. They both came in new condition.

I am on my first repack of my Timken bearings after 13,073 miles and 14 months. I have noticed that the Front Axel bearing show they got a little warm. The rear axel bearings show no discoloration. I used CV2 grease which is a Light or Faded Red color see picture below. The front axel outer bearings are the worst with a darker areas on the bearings surface there is no pitting or galling. The grease in and around the bearing is a light gray color. The grease has not thickened at all. still the same consistency as the original gear. I had repacked the Chinese Dexter bearing every 6,000 miles, and never saw the darkening, but had pitting and galling on those bearings. I'm I over tightening the bearings. My Procedure for setting the bearings. 1. As I'm tightening the bearing I slowly turn the hub for the first 15-20 ft/lbs to make sure everything is seated. After that I no longer turn the hub. I finish by torquing to 50 ft/pounds per Dexter. 2. I then loosen the nut making sure the Hub does rotate at all. 3. I then I hand snug the nut, and then back the nut off about 3/32 of an inch (probably about 1/32 of a full rotation. 4. I lock the nut in place with the retainer. I check the hub and tire temps during and 50% of my stops, and always after coming dow a mountain pass. They are always within about 5-10 degrees of each other. The highest temps have been around 130 degrees and mostly running around 115-120 degrees. I use a bearing packer for the bearing and alway push through about 1/2 of extra grease so I know that there the bearing is full of grease. I putt about 1/8 of an inch of grease around cones and 1/16 in on the axel. I try not to over pack the hub with grease. After pressing the seal in place. I put about a 1/16 inch of grease on the inner surface of the inner bearing and pack a little extra grease between the seal and bearing. I do the same type of procedure for the outer bearing. After making sure the hub and outer bearing is fully seated by hand I add little each grease before placing the washer in place. There is also slight discoloration on the spindles where the bearings ride. This is consistent among all spindles, and there is no pitting or galling. I check the hub and tire temps during and 50% of my stops, and always after coming dow a mountain pass. They are always within about 5-10 degrees of each other. The highest temps have been around 130 degrees and mostly running around 115-120 degrees. Also I had my tires balanced about 18,000 miles ago and I always make sure the weight is still in place on the inner rim when the tires are removed. I have the Cooper Discoverer HT3 LT Tires, and just replaced them with new tires due to age (6.5 years). Lastly I do have the Alcan 5 leaf springs and am using the Dexter Shoulder wet bolts, to insure I can easily grease the bolts and the shackles and Ez-Flex moves without restrictions. Should I be worried about the discoloration. Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to included any information related to the Dexter assembly. This is the worst bearing sets. The other front axel the discoloration faded 1/2 way up the rollers. This is the CV2 grease. Thanks

Good example Ron! Most of us want more capacity but I wasn't even trying to upsell. My point was to spend the same dollar for the same low Ah capacity but choose modern lithium technology because it makes good sense to do so! Lose 200 LBS weight, take half the space, get twice the life in charge cycles, 3 times the warranty. And btw, LA batteries are somewhat dangerous, towing with sulfuric acid! But I'm with you, Ron! We cool our Oliver while towing, so the cabin is cool during fuel and lunch stops, no hook-ups there. I'm also not trying to convince anybody to change their camping style, but for us, we don't use public bathrooms anymore, because we have all the comforts of home in our Oliver. We travel batteries and fresh tanks full. With 900 Ah in battery capacity, we can run our A/C for 3-5 days weather depending, and with and an extra 35-gal fresh water in the TV we can last over a week including water for showers. But that's us, not trying to sell. Even if you spend every night at a campground with hookups, what if you run into weather or a roadside breakdown? Having extra water and battery capacity sure would help. And my friend @johnwen had his LA batteries fail when he unknowingly ran out of LP and the fridge had switched to DC. If he had made his 600 Ah Lithium upgrade prior to this issue, their fridge would have run another 3-4 days on battery keeping the food cold. I tried, but the OP is determined. What would you choose?

Welcome @carpenter! While I do like to mountain bike and road bike as well, hike etc and live reasonably close to you in MT. We are up here in Bozeman so feel free to stop in for a visit, just understand I doubt I could keep up with you mountain bike at my ripe old age. Just did a 14 mile ride yesterday and my 4 month old new replacement knee is feeling it today. LOL. Good luck with your adventures.

Though it's never become unplugged, I decided to check my fridge plug to see if it was still a tight fit in the outlet. Looked under the sink and nothing there... Ends up they installed mine in the fridge enclosure and assessable from the bottomed outside vent. Still tight!

The real issue is payload capacity, which for a Lexus GX460 is 1,140 lbs. The tongue weight of an Oliver Elite II with any gear at all will be around 600 lbs. Add a passenger or two and some gear in your Lexus and you will exceed max payload. I wouldn't do it.

All though my refrigerator did not come unplugged, I proactively replaced my refrigerator plug after someone else reported that their refrigerator came unplugged. The is the type of plug I used and it has worked for 6 or 7 years. I don’t remember, but I may have also used a tie wrap. John Davies replaced his outlet for different reasons and this will take you to his mod. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6722-how-to-replace-the-120-vac-refrigerator-outlet-under-the-galley-sink-water-lines-with-a-waterproof-junction-box/?srsltid=AfmBOop_r6SWUqYp2fvGVz5cXJio0oNzeQnuFWMKZobs6ISEKIy-36a7 Mossey

Welcome to the community!! You'll find a wealth of knowledge here on the forum. There is an Oliver National Rally this fall, details of which can be found here. The demographics do tend to show a greater number of older folks most likely due to the fact that these trailers are fairly pricy and that they are favored as a "couples trailer", not so much for families. Lately I think that's changing a bit though with younger folks buying in.

Hehe. Fair enough. This is actually made for RVs, Fiberglass and aircraft. But to your point, we also have a carpet runner down the middle 🙂

Hey all, I purchased a 2022 legacy elite 2 last summer hull number 1018. So far I have used it about 40 nights and have made a few small adjustments to make it as comfortable as possible. The reason for my post is i would like to go to a rally or do a tour with some other owners but have noticed a majority of other ollie owners are significantly older than i am. My vision would be to tour Wyoming, Montana, or Utah and make stops centered around mountain biking, dirt biking, rock climbing, hiking, and kayaking/fishing. I guess this is a feeler to see how many of us would be interested in something like that. I hope everyone has a good week and those on the road have safe travels.

I wouldn't do it as others have stated. You will wear out that Lexus in no time not to mention the safety factor or lack of it. You also might be surprised at just how luxurious and nice to drive new trucks are these days.