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If you like nerding out on details ... Here's the control boxes, yay more LED's to cover at night. But see below, this might be just the PP model, or an early idea Here's the Ecoflow. That spot is blank on mine, unfortunately I lose cabinet space for no useful purpose The battery looks like a standard ecoflow bolted in there, with all the electronics and casing. No space to do a side by side like with the Lithionics. 5 kWh base, I have about 9 kWh with the Lithionics upgrade (which cost $$). Jason says it can be supplemented, maybe he means the Ecoflow daisy chaining feature with an external battery They dropped the vents. Those Ecoflows have built in active cooling and fans, maybe they figure that's good enough? Still need to dump heat somehow Different picture on the websidte compared to the Austin demo model. Two control panels and not one on the side pantry wall. Bottom is the tanks, the top looks like the Truma with the control knob. Probably something similar.

Thanks for catching me in time 😅 Yeah it's the two most forward that are the troublemakers. I'm off to mooch camp this weekend I'll do it there. I'll be over near Alcan this summer so just set up an appointment. Unfortunately they won't install my GM TPS - Oliver decided not to do it either. Having a hard time getting that taken care of.

OK from the image looks like the Freshjet 5 series. Headline features is low profile, it's a direct "Penguin II" replacement, but advertised as 'up to 9 dB quieter'. For ceiling register there's two options, from the interior image looks like maybe this one with the front vents, just a basic mechanical I'd get excited if somebody came out with something truly quiet, like what you get with a ducted mini-split. I don't understand why they keep making hard start AC's, put an inverter on there (PWM type control) with a truly variable fan speed.

I did consider this method too @jd1923 but by the time I got to this point honestly I was tired of working on the project. FWIW in the conversation when I measured DC voltage it perfectly matched the current SOC of my Epoch battery which at that time was 14.4 volts. This gave me assurance there was no voltage drop. I want to add this is not an easy install nor a quick one either. Now for the vast majority of campers it probably takes a couple of hours max but due to the Olivers lack of a basement foundation and access one has to re-engineer a platform for the WH to rest one. The old 1x1.5 aluminum tube originally used which by the way was very wobbly on my unit due to the bolts used not being screwed all the way in. Worse still bouncing had called some indentation on the insulation of old WH creating a less than ideal surface for the unit to rest on. Reusing this piece sideways with a 1/4 shim installed on top seemed to provide the right height of 1.25 inches. The new Fogatti is much shorter than the older Suburban thus the change in support position. It's also considerably lighter in weight too not to mention the extra 50 lbs of water you're carrying with a Suburban. For anyone contemplating this change there are other things to consider. The soft copper tubing to the WH is far too long for the new Fogatti which requires a significant amount of bending or shortening. If shortened then one has to also buy a flaring tool if you can even find one. I couldn't. Since the copper tubing on the Oliver runs along the outside of the trailer this is the harder/stiffer version of soft copper tubing which means it's a ***** to bend and maneuver. This was quite the wrestling match given the cramped access in the Oliver. Water fittings have to be re-considered as well. I chose to use two double threaded nipples to join the old half inch fittings attached to the pex pipe with a short run of flex water pipe to the NPT connections on the WH. The old pex pipe does not even come close to lining up with the location of the new NPT connections. While my method works not sure this was the best arrangement and may revisit it at some point. I also might revisit my method of creating a platform for the new unit to rest on. According to Fogatti what I did was fine but only by a half inch or so. Eventually I might create a second platform further toward the back of the unit supported by the frame of the trailer. Also considering using spray foam insulation under new unit but this can get messy if not done right, but it would provide a decent foundation for the unit to rest on. Hope this helps

#75 tag, Installed Goodyear Endurance ST225/75R/15E 80PSI spare tire mounted on SenDel S20 15X6 3200lb wheel, since a LT225/75R/16E will not fit in the 2015 fiberglass spare tire housing:

I let mine lapse too. Every time I tried to use it the host NEVER called me back.

They are using a Dometic FreshJet A/C.

Received new SenDel S20 wheels to install on our Oliver replacing the original ION wheels. Purchased 16X6 wheels, installing the LT225/75R/16 Coopers already mounted on Ion wheels for two more years, before replacing tires.

Do not rotate bolt. Instead, jack up trailer to remove weight from suspension. Grease should then be able to be introduced. This is a common situation and remedy when greasing two rearmost zerks

Started suspension maintenance today, so got a pic of the back of our wheels. I can zoom in, to see the SenDel brand trailer wheels, made in China, 6x16jj rims, 110 PSI Max, 3,200 LBS load rating.

Thank you for all your information. I really want one, but have spent too much on the Oliver already. I want the one with the grey front since I have that trim theme now. https://fogattiliving.com/products/fogatti-instashower-ultra-66-000-btu-rv-tankless-water-heater-with-grey-door I see now that without the border trim it's a 15" square. Thanks again. For your ground, what you did is fine. Or you could run a new ground wire around the back to the streetside and to the main ground bus. I have all grounds connected from here by the two 8 AWG green wires going left to the Inverter ground terminal, to the battery ground. Chassis ground is good, but direct copper wire connections are better.

(Regarding no Truma anymore) Yeah with Truma integration you either use it all or use nothing. What are they using for the PP model heat/water/AC? Yeah it’s not Truma, I don’t recognize it

I think it’s a myth. I had tankless on my first house - loved it. Instant hot water and as much as you want. Very popular in Japan, they don’t have the room for a big tank (neither did I). In my ‘26 it’s great. One time I got in the shower, all ready and realized I had forgotten to turn it on the night before. No problem, hit a switch and was in business. If that’s not convincing Truma has a Comfort mode that keeps the water sitting in the tank preheated. I like the Truma combo control system for AC, heat and water. German engineering (yes I know about the recall, it happens) … I worked in Germany once upon a time on an engineering project. They’re very proud of their engineering culture (country wise). A crazy level of attention to detail. Not so great for software but physical engineering? Yeah … this was down by the Dark Forest, Stuttgart area. Lots of automotive and cuckoo clocks. I heard a cuckoo in the forest once, the Germans were mad because they never heard it 😅 (I digress) Jackery is a relative newcomer I think. I bet they use cylindrical in those batteries, I’ll take the prismatic of Lithionics any day. Watch one of the factory tours. Anyhow solar awnings sound great (but not at 8k! That is seriously expensive solar). Problem is getting to use them, OK haven’t had this too long but have been camping pretty continuously. Rarely had a chance to use them for any length of time. JMHO

Insta Shower 9 Pro, which also fits the basic 13x13 hole with 15 x 15 door. However the fit was tight and just a titch out of square from the original install of the Suburban. Used a drill with rotating drum sanding attachment and vacuum in the other hand to sand away critical parts for an easier fit. After a few efforts it slide in nicely. I chose this unit over some of the less expensive models due to its mixing chamber/valve the less expensive models did not have. These WH are said to be 74% efficient ± and would bet the Suburban is nowhere near this level of efficiency. It's also very quiet and very easy to winterize. Your Suburban has a 15x15 door but the actual hole or rather square is 13x13. The Fogatti comes with a surround trim piece but will not work on the Oliver due to the recessed indentation for the WH and Furnace. Not a big deal as the supplied gasket and caulk easily seal the unit well. Finally finished the install today and thanks to @Snackchaser for his suggestion of capping off the two other blue and yellow/green wires and running an additional black wire from a bolt on the chassis to the black wire on the WH. Everything seems to be working perfectly. Had gorgeous day in Big Sky country after frigid night before. I really like the remote control for adjusting water temp to your taste. The fit and finish on this product is on an order of magnitude better than the older Suburban. The engineering and tech seems to also be light years ahead of the Suburban which by comparison seems like a relic out of the end of WWII. Is it perfect? Probably not, but thus far I like it much better than the older Suburban WH. LMK if there are more concerns or questions.

Please do!!! My suspension was silent when I got it. Now it’s creaky. I just did the 3k lube right on schedule but still creaky. There’s a couple that won’t take lube, wondering what to do Ok so loosen nut, rotate bolt, grease and then tighten to 58

Rob, what is the model # of the unit you purchased? I was seeing most new Fogatti units at 17.64" (600mm) square, but our OEM Suburban HWH is 15" square.

Just retorqued the suspension after towing 3600 miles over the last 6 months on the new D52 axles with Alcan 5-pack leaf springs. On the right side (I'll work the left side tomorrow), the U-bolts did not need tightening at 90 ft-lb (they're set, last time I'll touch these). The three main leaf (3) bolts, the EZ Flex center bolt and the two end bolts did not need tightening either (torqued to 70 ft-lb). The wet-bolt on one shackle would not take grease, so I loosened it to apply grease. All four (4) shackle-connected wet-bolts needed a bit of tightening (torqued to 58 ft-lb). All shackles and other parts looked in like-new condition. Not real concerned with rotating wet-bolts as you could see they were all fixed into a set position even though needing torque. Just loosen the nut and rotate the bolt if one is not taking grease. Torque wet-bolts after greasing. I'm going to start a maintenance thread for the Alcan/D52 Nev-R Lube setup.

Looks that way from what I can tell, and those 48V Houghton's on paper don't look very efficient either. I think the 120v inverter units that we each have would use less power even after the loss of running through an inverter.

Yes, the fan upgrade is imperative! I turn ours on whenever camped with sun on that entrance wall. Our old absorption fridge now works great (not so before the fans), it even keeps ice cream hard! 😎 OMG, the Beech Lane spec does state, "**The fans are about 1-1.5" thick!" How many engineers did it take to specify that?! 🤣 I'm working on Oliver suspension maintenance today, so thought I would measure for you! I measure 1 1/8" thick for the assembly, but in each corner are Allen screws and at that point they're 1 3/8".The Beech Lane dual-fan assembly fit nicely inside the top-vent cavity, but our hull is older and we have the Dometic fridge. Perhaps you also have the Norcold unit, so copy what Geoff did above. Not sure why he went with a bottom vent installation as most of us mounted the upper vent as an exhaust. Anybody need the Beech Lane product? Amazon has "Like New" right now for a very good price of $56! Best wishes, JD

I hope you all recognize this was tongue-in-cheek. Yep, but come to think of it... How nice it would be to have 2300A of solar available! Plus, you'd have have redundancy if (when?) one of them failed. Now we need a gray water storage carpet to put under the solar awning. And camp chairs that also hold fresh water. We could boondock forever!

No thank you. Never wanted a Jackery, like independent parts to replace if/when needed. They only running the A/C on 48V? That's what fuses are for. 🤣 I power only one jack fuse at a time, a best practice.

Start with three each for the jacks. Or make every owner sign a waiver that they will not operate more than one jack at a time.... LOL One for all the electronic outlets

Oliver is adamant about maintaining their 7000 pound GVWR. The 4 leaf spring pack is now the weakest link and achieves their goal.

I just got some Bulldog Shocks From O’reilly,s (just need two). There were going to be about $78 with tax and shipping,because they had to special order them.. I asked for my veterans discount, no good on spec.orders…He said let me try this.. Got the price down to $58 out the door… the shocks were $31 each normally..I was pleasantly surprised.and the parts come in 2 days instead of a week.. Now that is customer satisfaction!!

The way I understood it, the inverter all the 12 volt stuff was built into the battery itself. Like a giant Jackery.