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On the 2023 Elite there's also a breaker (60A) for the +12V systems, it's probably a Optifuse like in the Elite 2s. I don't know where it would be located on an Elite but probably under a seat or bunk.

In our 2019 E2 we have reverse polarity fuses.

Reset the GFCI outlet under the dinette when the other 120VAC outlets are not working. They are wired in series so the GFCI (Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter) in the first position protects the entire circuit. @Buddhabelly has the opposite issue, "no power for 12 volts items." Do we actually have said fuse in the Oliver? Maybe on the charger circuit board? (I'm not generally AI trusting.) I guess he could have disconnected the batteries to charge them and then wired them in reverse polarity? (The only way this fuse would blow.) Because you're on shore power, or because your inverter is working? It always gets me when a request seems really important, "WE HAVE NO POWER!" Then the person asking for help doesn't login for the next 17 hours... We can only help those who help themselves! So much we do not know without follow-up questions answered! @Buddhabelly, your answer to @Steph and Dud B's question? And is your inverter working? (if you have one) And re another 12VDC item, are your stabilizer jacks working?

The bonding plug needs to be at the source -- the Bluetti or generator outlets. Not an outlet in the trailer. Because the Bluetti outlet has nothing connected to the ground, the bonding plug cannot join the ground and neutral. Therefor a one-to-three outlet adapter can be plugged into the Bluetti, one of the three adapter outlets gets the bonding plug, another gets the trailer feed cord, and the third is a spare. That effectively bonds the ground and neutral. Bonding at the power source has always been required by code, these power packs just add a new dynamic. Someone had an idea to use the EMS bypass "in a pinch." This isn't risk free, but it would be fine for getting the lights on while finding the bonding plug. The EMS is actually protecting the trailer from an un-bonded neutral that the bonding plug fixes. Keep in mind that these power supplies are perfectly fine for single power cord loads as designed. They are not designed to be connected to a trailer where the wiring system assumes a bonded supply. Cheers! Geoff

Also across northern Texas, Oklahoma and environs this morning. I'm hitched, but stalling my departure until it passes. On my first night in my Oliver, I was planning to camp in a very nice park in Tennessee -- but on advice of Rodney Lomax, I stayed the night at the Oliver factory campground where there were a lot fewer trees to come down, and hitched the Oliver to my truck to help stabilize it. It was a real blow and a good lesson.

I have very sketchy memory of a time when I couldn't figure out a similar issue (but I had not drained my batteries)... the solution in my case was to reset the GFI protected outlet that (on my Elite2) is located on the face of the forward dinette bench seat.

Never at an outlet. This is known as a "bootleg ground" and can cause dangerous situations.

Into the outlet on the generator. I believe this is an artifact of the lack of a grounding rod and grounded electrical system on the trailer (which would be totally impractical).

Not really. Lots of people have RVs with no EMS system at all. The EMS cuts off power to your rig if the voltage is too high/low, the wires are not connected properly, or the source has the wrong Hertz (cycles per second). Cheap generators can have all of those problems. Shore power can be wired incorrectly or have voltage issues. Check your specs, but most new Bluetti power stations use a pure sine-wave inverter. That means the power should be "clean" enough for sensitive electronics. Almost certainly safer than plugging into shore power at a campground. I got this from an AI search: "Bluetti power stations are very safe for sensitive electronics. All Bluetti units use pure sine wave inverters. This mimics the clean, stable power of a standard wall outlet, preventing screen flickering, overheating, and data loss for devices like laptops, TVs, and CPAP machines... Avoid ECO Mode: If using a Bluetti solar generator, users on PowerEquipmentForum suggest turning off the "ECO mode" for the most stable and reliable power delivery to sensitive electronics."

That sounds dangerous and I could fry something; yes?

@routlaw, We previously had Dometic/Seitz awning style plexiglass windows in another camper that we liked. Most folks here want glass. Yep, Lippert 3000 FVD with two operating windows has a maximum size up to 72X30. The frameless glass dark windows looks really good on an Oliver, always liked having the ability to open the Dometic windows during light rain, too. Like I said, it's going to be interesting to see Oliver's retrofit. I contacted Oliver about window retrofits and they said we would all be notified at the same time when available. 🙂

A generator. There is another option in a pinch. You can use the Bypass switch on your EMS control panel (ours is in the "attic" over the bed). This will keep the EMS from blocking power from the "ungrounded" generator, but it will also remove all protection provided by the EMS. However, power from the Bluetti is already supposed to be clean, right?

I think there may be a blown reverse polarity fuse: from ai search In an Oliver Legacy Elite I trailer, a reverse battery fuse (often labeled as a reverse polarity fuse) acts as a sacrificial safety shield to protect the trailer's electrical system if the house batteries are connected backward. [1, 2] How It Works Instant Disconnection: If the positive and negative battery cables are accidentally swapped during installation, a massive surge flows backward. The reverse polarity fuses instantly blow to break the circuit. [1, 3] Downstream Component Protection: By blowing immediately, they stop the reverse current from frying sensitive onboard electronics, such as the WFCO power converter, the Xantrex or Freedom XC inverter, circuit boards, and 12V appliances. [1, 2, 3] What Happens When It Blows? No 12V DC Power: The trailer will immediately lose all 12-volt battery power (lights, water pump, jack, etc.). No Battery Charging: Even if you plug the trailer into shore power, the Oliver power converter will not charge the house batteries because the path between them is physically blocked by the blown fuses. [1, 2, 4, 5] Where to Find It In the Oliver Elite I, these are typically two high-amperage (usually 30A or 40A) blade fuses located directly on the face or side of the main 12V DC distribution panel/power center. They sit slightly separated from the smaller individual branch circuit fuses. [1, 2, 3, 4] If you need to replace them, ensure the battery cables are corrected first, or the new fuses will pop instantly upon contact. [1, 2] If you are currently troubleshooting an electrical issue, please share: Are you getting power from shore power but not the battery? Have you recently swapped or disconnected your batteries? Are there any error codes showing on your solar controller or inverter display? AI can make mistakes, so double-check responses

None of the 12v items work? Lights, fan, USB outlets?

The screen grab below illustrates the window I was referring to, however once they become this wide there is a vertical split cut in half with two operating windows. Looks at 3000 FVD

@rideandfly I was looking at a different model that allowed a larger size but I see your point. I totally agree about frameless canopy windows and would much prefer those. One of the complaints about these 300 series from Lippert is they only open about 3 inches from the bottom but have seen videos where people made modifications which allow about 4-6 inches of total venting. I still prefer the windows we had on our T@b. That style of window seems to have evolved and now made by a few different manufacturers but non of them are made wide enough to fit the Oliver existing window rough openings. The largest I have seen has been approximately 36-39 inches albeit in metric values.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.bluettipower.com/collections/solar-generators%3Fsrsltid%3DAfmBOorYwy_9QQeUU5f8w-gieqaqxkTNeuxvTgwk7-IXFxfPsFHY-ShT&ved=2ahUKEwiZwsmvkJKVAxXDmisGHevaGgUQFnoECBsQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1JV2q4OjzofNCgrtpnFEQd

Into an outlet in the Oliver or in the generator?

I've never heard of a Blueitti. However there are a similar issues with a Jackery. They have what's called a floating neutral. Also common in some generators. So yes, a floating neutral requires a neutral to ground bonding plug. Otherwise the Electrical Management System (EMS) will see it as an open ground. But there is a problem. Many (if not all) of these power packs have no reference to ground what-so-ever. So the "u-ground" pin hole of the receptacle is not connected to anything, it's just an open hole. So a neutral to ground bonding plug wouldn't connect to anything in the ground pin hole, and it won't work. Now that I've confused everyone, including myself, there is a bypass trick. Use a 1-outlet to 3-outlet adapter, or an extension cord with a "Wye" that provides 3 extra outlets to plug into. Plug the neutral to ground bonding plug into one the extra outlets to effectively bond the neutral and ground... despite there being no ground on the power pack. Cool huh. This is one of many reasons to have a $10 plug-in circuit tester, the ones with three lights that show various conditions such as open grounds. I recommend you test all circuits when rigging such power supplies. Cheers! Geoff

Here's the Lippert information I'm looking at, 3000 FV minimum size 12X12 and maximum size 36X30: I like canopy style frameless windows instead sliding windows, looking forward to see what Oliver retrofits older trailers with.

I needed to do so with my Champion generator.

I want to charge my Oliver with Blueitti (sp?) battery "solar generator". Is it correct that I need to plug a "ground neutral plug" in one of the Bluetti outlets to make it work correctly?

Have an elite1 with just a charger. House power cord came disconnected and drained AGM batter totally dead. Was able to recharge it with a commercial charger and now holds 12.5 volts but, I have no power for 12 volts items. I checked the power coming in from the battery and I get power to the bus bar and after that, I'm lost to where to trace for the lost of power. The charger is working because everything is working when useing 115 volts. Can anyone recommend where I should be looking for somekind of breaker I can't seem to find. No power going to the 12v fuse box either. Appreciate any help here....

Batten down the hatches tonight up there on the Parkway - there is a bit of rain and wind coming up from the southwest over night. Bill

Perhaps I am reading the chart incorrectly but it appears you could order a 48x20 as the smallest vertical dimension. It probably wouldn't be too difficult to cut an inch on the top and bottom away from existing cabin to accommodate the slightly larger vertical size.