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Thanks @Geronimo John and @jd1923 for the additional comments. Clearly I have not provided adequate information regarding the install. No the Fogatti WH only uses 12 VDC to run the internal circuits, sensors etc and which also then feeds back to its remote control which is a nifty device itself. The power to heat water is only through propane and not AC and certainly not DC voltage. The wires themselves coming from the Fogatti are probably 16 AWG or 18 AWG at best and they are intended to connect to the same wires that fed the Suburban sensors circuit board, nothing more. Attaching a few photos below to illustrate (hopefully) the layout and wiring situation. I will be crimping those connections later on today rather than the wire nuts but used those just to make sure everything is working ok before proceeding to final installation. In the first photo the black and red wires represent those coming from the WH and as you can see I have red to red (+) and black to blue & green/yellow (- & GND). The new WH works fine this way oddly enough. The next photo is the same just pulled back further to illustrate the entire enchilada a bit better Remote below with two blue wires (non polarity) from the same wiring harness of the new WH inside the basement where the new WH is installed using 1/4 - 20 SS screws, lock nuts and fender washers rather than the pitiful pop rivets initially used for the Suburban WH. Note this IS a two person job. 1/4-20 stainless steel screws viewed from the outside though the bottom row I used self tapping Big Timber screws into a block behind the FG wall. There simply is not access to tighten nuts and screws on the bottom row. Everybody knows what a locking nut looks like but just in case someone else tries this method thought might be helpful.

Missouri is home to more than 130 commercial wineries and vineyards, ranging from historic estates in the "Missouri Rhineland" to urban wineries in Kansas City and St. Louis. Below is a list of commercial vineyards and wineries in Missouri, categorized by region. Missouri River Valley & Central (Hermann, Augusta, Rocheport) This region contains the Augusta AVA, the first federally designated American Viticultural Area in the U.S. · Adam Puchta Winery (Hermann) – Award winning and the oldest continuously family-owned farm winery in the U.S. · Augusta Winery (Augusta) – Award winning. · Balducci Vineyards (Augusta) · Blumenhof Vineyards & Winery (Dutzow) · Hermannhof Winery (Hermann) – Award winning. · Montelle Winery (Augusta) – Award winning. · Mount Pleasant Estates (Augusta) · Noboleis Vineyards (Augusta) – Award winning · OakGlenn Vineyards and Winery (Hermann) · Röbller Vineyard and Winery (New Haven) · Stone Hill Winery (Hermann) – Award winning and one of the largest and most historic wineries in the state. · The Blufftop at Rocheport (formerly Les Bourgeois Vineyards) (Rocheport) - Award winning. Southeast (Ste. Genevieve, St. James, Farmington) Known for its deep French colonial history and the Ozark Highlands AVA. · Cave Vineyard (Ste. Genevieve) · Charleville Vineyard Winery & Brewery (Ste. Genevieve) · Chaumette Vineyards & Winery (Ste. Genevieve) · Crown Valley Winery (Ste. Genevieve) · St. James Winery (St. James) – Award winning and Missouri’s largest winery by volume. · Sainte Genevieve Winery (Ste. Genevieve) · Sand Creek Vineyard (Farmington) · Watertower Winery (Ste. Genevieve) · Edg-Clif Vineyard, Winery & Brewery (Potosi) Northwest & Kansas City Metro A mix of rural vineyards and modern urban tasting rooms. · Amigoni Urban Winery (Kansas City) · Arcadian Moon Vineyards and Winery (Higginsville) · Belvoir Winery (Liberty) · Fence Stile Vineyards & Winery (Excelsior Springs) · Jowler Creek Vineyard & Winery (Platte City) – Award winning · Pirtle Winery (Weston) · Riverwood Winery (Rushville) · Stonehaus Farms Vineyard and Winery (Lee's Summit) · TerraVox Vineyards (Weston) – Specializes in rare native North American grapes. Southwest & Ozark Mountains Features scenic views and several wineries near the popular recreation areas of Branson and Springfield. · 7C's Winery (Walnut Grove) · Bear Creek Wine Company (Walnut Shade) · Keltoi Vineyard & Winery (Oronogo) · Lindwedel Winery (Branson) · Ozark Hills Winery (Branson) · St. Francois Vineyards (Park Hills) Additional Commercial Wineries · Apple Creek Vineyard & Winery (Friedheim) · Baltimore Bend Vineyard (Waverly) · Black Silo Winery (Trenton) · Canterbury Hill Winery (Holts Summit) · Dale Hollow Winery (Stover) · Serenity Valley Winery (Fulton) · Seven Springs Winery (Linn Creek) · Wildlife Ridge Winery (Smithton)

I have a new project, and I am happy if you want to help. Below is a list of Missouri wineries. I am going to find the ones that would accommodate RV visitors or ones with state and national park RV camping close by. Please provide any updates to help the list. Some research projects can be a lot of fun. Thanks

Get well soon, and hopefully a quick recovery

New twist on this thread.. Over the last two weeks, I’ve undergone major sinus surgery after a year+ of severe sinusitis. Went down to Phoenix to see a top ENT in AZ and he worked his magic for 4 hours, OMG! We trailered the Oliver last week to Cave Creek park where the camping is very comfortable, 40 minutes from the outpatient center. Three nights here, two overnights post-surgery, relaxing in the Oliver to recoup! The Oliver truly is a survival vehicle, in fact it’s a portable intensive care unit. I felt as comfortable as being home with everything I needed at arms reach! 😎 The first night post-op was a bear! Then 6 days of agony… We towed down to Cave Creek again, two consecutive weeks. We could have just been here 10 days, but Chris and I had things to do at home. Post-op appoint yesterday, I couldn’t wait (will spare you the details). Everything went well! After a saline rinse, I feel GREAT today! We have another 2 hours here, coffee in the Sun, ‘til checkout time, then we tow 4000 ft up the mountain to return home! We will always have our Oliver for so many life experiences. Our home away from home is a wonderful retreat. I’m sure yours is too! 😎

I was thinking “new DC run” and GJ laid out the circuit logic perfectly! See what fuse and wire gauge Fogatti specs in their documentation. I would locate a spare or empty position in the 12VDC fuse panel to do this right. The last thing you want is more inline fuses under beds! This is a major appliance. Source wiring should start at the main +/- buses with the positive running through the fuse panel. 😎

I always thought it was not a great sign when a vendor would spend an entire week at a rally having to fix their product.

I read somewhere recently that they're not using *any* Truma products in the new models.

Forgive me if I am not understanding your problem. But here is what I am thinking: Your Hull #70 is most likely set up like my 2018. A hot water requires a bunch of energy. It can get that energy from propane or 120 volt. The switch on the unit activates the 120V AC power to heat the water. The switch inside just activates the circuit board. Our hulls are not set up to power up hot water from the DC source. It is not like the refergerator that is. The Suburban hot water heater needs energy from three systems. The 120 V lines provide alot of power to the unit if your outside switch is on to use 120V power to do the heavy lifting (heating water) The DC power to to the gas solenoid valve to provide propane to heat the water if you want it to do the heavy lifting. But regardless of how you want to provide the energy to heat the water, you also must have DC to the circuit board. Those wires are not sized to provide power to heat the water. The DC wires are there only to provide power to the circuit board. Put a massive load on them and one would think you would blow it's fuse. Likely the reason your not blowing the fuse is that your new demand hot water has a sensor that will not energize it's heating coils unless the voltage is high enough to work properly. IF THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM Then you have a larger project than you anticipated as you'll need to run a new DC + and - to your demand hot water heater. I sure hope I am missing the boat on this one. GJ

I'm interested in weather or not they kept the John Deer Truma water heater. Would be nice not to require a certified tech work work on the dang thing. Tankless uses more water anyways... so I've heard via comparisons.

Here's the direct link Bulldog HD Shock Absorber Replaces 555001 For Trailer Leaf Spring Retro Kit Oh my goodness $39.38, something cheap for a change (yeah need four - or eight? Four I think)

From another thread about the X23 2027 model, the offroad version includes (drumroll) 😊 Four or five leaf? Five I'll guess. Good for Alcan this is a regular business for them. Well that's good enough for me, I'll order my set before too long. I went through most of the thread but don't recall a link or specs for the bulldogs, can anybody provide a link?

Ah just noticed the spec sheet link above Why in the heck is this CHEAPER than the Platinum Pro I got? Probably because the base battery is 400Ah and it doesn't include extra goodies. Fully specced it'll be up there Power is now the EcoFlow. I like the control box. Not super fond of fancy displays They listened to the peanut gallery "Bulldog HD Shocks & Alcan Leaf Springs" 😊 Four or five leaf springs? 48V Houghton AC Flex solar is cool. Problem is getting to use it, I'm usually either in shade or there's too much wind How in the heck does the Pro have a 1,360W solar? It must come standard with the solar Girard On the 2027 they made a bunch of changes I like the stainless sink - kind of wish mine had that instead of molded in. I might do that mod Why is the bluetooth speaker back by the stove? On my recommendation they moved to the TV - you don't want a speaker in the heat. This was probably in proto before that mod, or maybe they did that just for me? This goes back to the framed in window shades. I love my roller shades fwiw, the trim color valances add a lot of nice design. Looks like a 2026 model only, too bad I think its an improvement I think @jd1923 made this mod? Unfortunately the dinette isn't really that comfortable any way you cut it Well anyhow glad to see them adding models. Fortunately I don't have buyers remorse, I'm upgrading to Alcan/Bulldog myself, and in theory I could upgrade to Girard solar too. But with 220 kWh on the truck with 10kW available to the trailer I don't need any extra solar. Before somebody asks - no a 1.3 kW panel won't charge the truck worth beans.

They dropped a video this morning, mainly just advertising splash FWIW my opinion so far Color scheme: Not my taste. The black trim will take more sun damage and takes away from the elegance of the design language. It's a hard black and white which is way to constrasty, if they could have gone with a softer black it would work but I think the windows set it to a hard black. Also black shows up scratches and dirt like nobody's business. That black AC will absorb heat and age faster Fully opening window: From a 2026 owner; a step backwards. I can't tell you how easy and convenient it is to crack the bedside window at night. The sliders would be more challenging I think, and this one, you'd have to get your hand around the window shade and push it somehow, assuming the levers are open. I really don't understand why people want a fully opening window, it doesn't offer anything new 48V system Been in a lot of discussions of this because the Cybertruck went 48V. My engineering opinion; it doesn't offer you anything. The only technical improvements are thinner battery cables and better power/torque delivery for motors. But they will still have to supply 12V as not every device will support 24V, and for the 12V cig ports. So it'll be a stacked/split system, mostly likely they'll just also have a series 24v connection to the battery, and split 12V rails for those. I could see the power jacks benefiting, assuming a 48V system. Oh maybe the inverter too - that would be more efficient. Who knows, maybe 48V lets them get to a 4k inverter which honestly would be nice (Xantrex doesn't have one AFAIK though) Offgrid tires Look cool, but probably lower efficiency, harder to replace (?), and since they don't provide motor traction of limited use. Cost: Probably $$$, I kind of doubt they'll have all those parts in black from the supplier

Yes Toni, The newfoundland route is usually done via a ferry from one of the Québec ports or from an island hop when in the Atlantic maritime provinces. But how can someone venture around Newfoundland and not visit Labrador, if we are that close. We have researched this TQH & TLH route extensively and believe it is doable. it may have some challenges along the way, but we have learned slow & steady gets us there. We learned a lot up in the NWT on the way to and from TUK. We look forward to the adventure. And will report back upon our return. B~Out,

After many attempts finally got the thing to work but only after I used both the blue - and green/yellow ground wires connected together and to the negative black terminal of the Fogatti WH. The device would not work using either the blue or green/yellow wires individually connected to black wires of the Fogatti. So apparently it would be better to connect the green/yellow wire to some metal portion of the trailer, correct? I should add once operating the Fogatti worked great.

I looked at the Suburban manual, it shows a wall switch with Fault/Reset light on the blue wire. That would cause voltage drop! Use the green/yellow wire for negative ground, and you should be good to go. Let us know if that’s what you have. Cheers, Geoff

Here is a link to the emergency valve stems. Bill

Understood good luck with JD. The HW switch I am referring to is the one remote switch that Oliver installs on the interior not the switch at the new WH. IOW's I'm still confused. Thanks for trying though. Thus far nothing is connected to the new WH other than the propane. I am trying to figure out which wires to connect to the new WH. Many thanks.

Rim design really has the stems on the edge, sticking out. Got to be careful with the steel ones too!

That is different. I'm on jury duty lunch break, this will be quick. The WH switch I assume is a remote switch. It likely is a specialty switch with some resistors or such causing a voltage drop, some LEDs will do that. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with that suburban unit. You will probably need to replace the switch for the new WH. Check the old switch for internal resistance with an ohm meter. Good luck and let us know what you find

I probably did not explain my situation thoroughly @Snackchaser. The old Suburban is completely out of the Oliver, AC wires are taped off and disconnected. When measuring the remaining 12 volt wires they have not been connected to anything yet. If measuring with the HW switch off, crickets, I get nothing other than small microvolts. The switch has to be turned on to obtain anything close to 12 volts +. So if I connect the red + wire and the blue - wire to the new Fogatti it will only receive 12.2 volts of input. That amount of DC current is not enough to effectively run the Suburban furnace based upon past experiences and it might have a negative impact on the new WH with only 12.2 volts. Or am I missing something? Thanks

You are measuring volts with WH switch on, which means your measuring the voltage drop of the internal WH electronics. Disconnect the red, and volts should be 13.7. The yellow/green wire is a non-current carrying ground due to the AC aspect of the WH, so it does not see the electronics voltage drop. All seems normal. Cheers, Geoff

So I am finishing up the install of a new water heater, tankless version to replace the old Suburban. Retrofitting into the Oliver is NOT an easy task but more on that later. So on the old Suburban there are 3 12 volt DC wires connected to the 12 volt terminals, red for +, blue for -, and yellow/green for ground. However when I measure the voltage across the wires with HW switch turn on, the red to blue measures only 12.2 volts but when I measure the red to green/yellow @ ground I received the full SOC of my Epoch batter which is 13. 7 ± volts. The new Fogatti tankless only uses two DC wires, red and black, and no AC connection at all. I am inclined to think in my case to use the red and green/yellow wire for the full DC voltage available to me. Can anyone explain why the red to blue wires only return a reduced voltage of 12.2 volts DC? My gut instinct is the wiring was done incorrectly at the factory build swapping the negative terminal for the ground but this is just a stab in the dark not being totally versed in DC electronics. Thanks and appreciate any insight on this.