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Anybody use this? The stock Dexter suspension is pretty much garbage, the plastic bushings and thin shackles wear out in no time. This system isolates road vibration and is much stouter, and can be greased every few thousand miles for quiet reliable operation. There are no negative reviews for this system, it makes a huge difference in trailer ride quality. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/21609645.cfm It's inexpensive but the labor will use up a few hours. http://www.nickstruckparts.com/k71-652-00.html I wonder if I can order axles through Oliver with this stuff pre-installed...? Comments? Have any high mileage Ollie's had suspension issues? Have you looked at your bushings _lately_? LOL, I am not trying to scare people, but the reality is that the standard parts are not intended for prolonged use or exposure to harsh environments like dust. They just don't last. BTW the picture above is wrong, the grease zerks should be installed facing inboard so you don't have to remove the wheels to lube them! John Davies Spokane WA

Pete, we'll be back in the neighborhood Friday. Will give you a call, would love to have you come over to have a look! Bill, the folks at Oliver worked hard to make things right. There will be growing pains as business increases which they realize and are addressing. As we're getting settled in to this small space living we're finding it very comfortable and functional. We are surrounded by huge 5th wheels with multiple slide outs but still get lots of looks and compliments. We're here in the Ozarks a couple more days, then south to Arkansas. Mike

I have no doubt you will do well with this mod, but do keep us informed on how it goes. Likewise I will do the same. Regarding deliveries, yep we usually get our shipments in via the 20 Mule Team Borax crew but thats only a recent new advancement for these parts, still had the pony express when I moved up here in the mid 70's. So we're moving pretty quick now days. The views aren't too bad though, long as those mules don't get in the way.

I ordered this (K71-653-00 E-Z Flex® Complete Tandem Kit) last night from Nick's Truck. I called them first to verify the parts were in stock and that it would be shipped today. The kit is $163.75 plus some pretty extravagant shipping and handling bringing my total to $196.58. I suppose the difference in mine and Rob's order total's is due to his living in the hinterlands of Montana and at least part of the delivery is done by mule pack train. Thanks, Rob for the good info posted above about the wet bolts. That will make the install somewhat easier. I will jump on this next week barring poor weather. I will try to take pictures as I go to help anyone else that is attempting this mod. Wish me luck...

Just wanted to do a quick update on this kit. Received my parts kit on Wed but have not had the time to install yet, but if all else fails I do have an appt at our local expert shop to have it done albeit for a chunk of change. Had another forum member contact me about one aspect of the install and wanted to share what I have learned regarding this issue. Apparently there has been some internet chatter on other forums where the resident "experts" claim the zerk bolt hole should be not only mounted on the horizontal plane which is correct, but also depending on its location, i.e. which spring eyelet the bolt goes into, that the lube hole should face either toward the front or the back of the camper. So addressing this in the install and owners manual there is nothing that implies either a forward or aft facing install, only that the hole should be on a horizontal plane. Not being quite content I decided to call tech support at Dexter to get their take on it. Jim, told me in no uncertain terms that the engineers only require the horizontal plane, direction matters not so long as the lube hole does not face down or up. Now that out of the way I would be remiss if not including the following info. This kit is massive heavy duty makes the standard shackles, equalizer parts look like a cheap toy. Also worth noting many of the zerk bolts and their brass/bronze bushings come already installed and pressed into place reducing the amount of work needed for the complete install. Its heavy over 30 lbs for both sides. Good luck for those who decide to make the installation themselves. For approximately $200 just for parts this will be money well spent.

Don, yes we are familiar with most of these campgrounds except Dewey Bridge and Hittle Bottom which are much further up 128 and well past Castle Valley. However we have camped at Goose Island and Hal Canyon but not Big Bend though we have been through it and are familiar with it. Goose Island fills up the quickest because its so close to Moab and the other areas to venture into. Hal Canyon is small but you should be able to fit into about half the campsites there with your Oliver. Big Bend is quite a bit larger but also much further out. Most of the side canyons along this part of the CO river corridor are used for mountain biking, there may be some hikers but not many compared to the cyclist. One campground you did not mention and our favorite along the CO river corridor is Williams Bottom along Potash road to the south of Highway 191. Turn right almost at the same junction for the entry into Arches. We prefer it over all the rest but your preferences maybe be different. There are also some excellent hikes near by, one within easy walking distance of the campground and some amazing rock art in this area, huge prolific panels. Further down this road and at the end there is another BLM campground but can't remember its name and it is quite large and more open than Williams Bottom which has more shade. The north corridor road (128) will receive quite a bit more traffic during the night than Potash Road which quiets down at night. Also there are some campgrounds on the opposite side of the river, what is referred to as Kane Creek but with the exception of one of them they are not as appealing, however there are some of the nicest tent campgrounds along this area I've ever seen. Lots of ATV's, dirt bikes and other motorized backcountry vehicles in this area as well as mountain bikes but still there are some good and quiet hikes too. You didn't mention Fisher Towers which is up past Castle Valley and off 128 but that campground is way too small for anything but tents and truck campers. The day we went up there on this last trip it was pouring rain, otherwise a fairly popular hike. Some other interesting areas to explore but further to the west are Goblin Valley, San Rafael Swell, and a very small extremely isolated part of Canyonlands NP referred to as Horseshoe Canyon. Don't attempt The Maze in your own vehicle, either rent a jeep in Moab or better yet hire a guide. You can camp at the large parking lot at Horseshoe and there is normally room for an Oliver, but there is also well over 30 miles of backcountry gravel, sand rough road to get there. I wouldn't degrade it to a jeep trail, but its also not something I would want to attempt in a passenger car, high clearance and preferably 4WD are better and if its wet don't do it. The road can be quite narrow at times, but otherwise you shouldn't have any trouble doing it with the Oliver but all the campers we saw there were either truck campers or tents so proceed at your own risk. And don't overlook going into the Needles District, very nice campground there (fills up fast during peak season) and dispersed BLM just outside the park. Arches will be so crowded this time of the year its hardly worth the effort. We were there a few years ago in about this same time of year and some people were having to park literally 1-2 miles away from the trail head it was so congested. I'm not making this up. We felt like we were in a heard of marching ants on most of the hikes until you start heading deeper. Hope this helps.

Speaking of dumps, there is a good one in Moab at the local Ranch Feed and Seed supply on Main Street (not too far from the City Market by far the best grocery store in the area) at the south edge of town. $5 dumps + water refills too. I understand the Maverick gas station sort of across the street also has a dump station but don't know their setup or fees. To the best of my knowledge Blanding, Bluff and Monticello do not have dump stations, though there are a couple of small RV Parks in Bluff and one large one in Blanding. Never stayed at either but they might also allow a dump for a fee. BTW if you boondock near the Bluff area, the Comb Ridge Wash to the north might be a better area than the Butler Wash area albeit no shade and relentless sun on the southern end. On the northern end of the Comb Ridge Wash off Highway 95 you will find a fair of amount of shaded dispersed areas to dry camp or boondock. There is also some good camping on Cottonwood Wash further to the east and on NF land. I would be somewhat reluctant to tow an Oliver much more than the first mile ± of Butler Wash from the south end off Highway 191. Great canyons and hiking, as well as ruins and rock art if this interest you. However none of it is marked so do your homework before venturing into this area. Also forgot to mention if you have the geezer pass BLM camping in this area is only $7.50 per night. Sand Island Campground was filling up most every night but if you get there by noon or early afternoon you should be ok. This is a major launch place to float the San Juan River. Windwhistle also usually fills up each night, both are small campgrounds with SI being the larger and roomier of the two. Don't even think about staying at Natural Bridges National Monument in your Oliver, very doubtful you could fit in their with tiny campsites and only about 13 of them I think. There are other BLM campgrounds on the same mesa as Windwhistle as well as a fair amount of dispersed campsites though most of them would be a bit sketchy to get an Oliver into then back out. But if you can negotiate one there are some awesome views along the west south west rim overlooking the Needles district of Canyonlands. Let me know if you have questions or my descriptions aren't clear.

FWIW, and maybe not the same in the new bigger trailers, our tank will read accurate till 6 per cent, and not suck air. Also, our bubble has never been adjusted. Don't really care. If the trailer is comfortable for us, it's comfortable and ok for the refrigerator, according to Dometic, and so it goes. If we can't level completely because of a weird campsite, we hope to leave the headboard side of the trailer high for better sleeping, and level enough so the doors swing properly (not too much twist on the trailer.) Most of the time, we're within an inch or so of level, if I just walk into the trailer , feel the level, and walk out and readjust the jacks. The bubble always lies. Not a huge deal. (BTW, you can use a partial water bottle on its side as a level, if you think your level isn't correct. Old school carpenter trick.) We also have a small pencil level we carry with us. To get that last few gallons, just as any other trailer, it can be necessary to jack one side and front a smidge to fill the inlet. We don't usually get to that point. As we normally wild camp, and carry fresh water in five gallon containers to supplement the trailer tank, I do the following to conserve water on most trips: 1. All drinking water is from the five gallon jugs, run into glasses or bottles. Coffee water is run into the tea kettle too. 2 I wash dishes with water heated in the tea kettle, from the jugs, in a dishpan. I can do dishes in a less than one quart tea kettle, by being careful. I also do dishes outside, most of the time, because I like it, and hate being inside when everyone else is having fun outside. I wipe food residue from dishes and silverware with the old napkins and paper plates after meals, save the dishes up, and do dishes once a day. Why waste the water, or the social time? 3. Rinsing glasses, brushing teeth, etc., is also usually done outside, with, you guessed it, the five gallon jugs carried in the truck. And the dog's water is from the jug, too. So, basically, the trailer water is toilet flushing (minimal water), navy shower (if no other facility available), and handwashing. Not much. 32 gallons goes a long, long way if you're careful. With extra jugs, we can go weeks without having to go into town for extra water. We do have a soft bladder that we've used to refill the tanks. It's not a big deal, but an extra trip and time, and I'd rather go hiking. Or go to the farmers' market, cheese factory, or whatever... Every time we come home from a camping trip, I have several thoughts (beyond, geez... all that laundry to do...) Our home is huge (it isn't), we waste a lot of water (we don't but certainly use more than we do when camping) and omg, we use a lot of energy... and we do, but we're careful about that at home, too, but still use so much more than when camping. If we all lived at home as we do when we camp (or as I did as a kid on the farm...)....well, it might be a better world. Camping has helped me reconnect with what is really important. Both our trailer (since 2008) and our home (since 2013) are solar powered. We conserve and collect water camping and at home. Precious resources. Precious world. Love the camping lifestyle, and love our Oliver, which makes it all easier. Sherry

Update on the Dexter EZ Flex kit, just ordered from Nicks Truck supplies so with cost of kit and shipping I'm in for $211 so far. For those wanting to retrofit these were the least expensive I found on the net. Also checked with the go to guys here in town that do the best undercarriage work on vehicles, i.e. alignment etc. This part is painful. To do the complete install and taking out all the old stuff it could be as high as $700 depending on whether or not an alignment is needed after the installation. But probably $500 bare minimum. Ouch! The moral of the story is, if you are planning to order an Oliver or have one in the works you're foolish for not including this kit installed for $270 bucks, otherwise its classic case of stepping over dollars to pick up pennies. Hope this helps.

As luck would have it, it appears I will need to install one of these kits on my one year old Oliver. During our last trip to Utah which we've just returned from a week or so ago our suspension has developed an obnoxious set of noises when leveling the trailer and from all I can determine the issue is with the bushings in the shackles. Keep in mind we have towed this trailer less than 8000 miles and they need to be replaced. So to anyone ordering a new Oliver my recommendation is to spring for the additional heavy duty suspension kit. I do want to point out though the kit linked above is the wrong one. You will need K71-653 not 652 for the entire enchilada, or K71-655 if you choose the abbreviated kit with just the equalizer only. Link below for the correct full kit. http://www.dexteraxle.com/inc/sdetail/18096/18100

Oliver has agreed to install this upgrade on a new build for $270. I don't know what the cost would be for a retrofit, but it would be a little more since there would be disassembly of the old parts involved. The $270 includes credit for the unused original parts. I think this is perhaps a little high since wholesale cost on the parts is probably well below $100 and there is minimal extra labor involved when building up a new suspension. The only extra work would be tearing out the old plastic bushings in the spring eyes and pressing in the new bronze ones. And then greasing all the zerk fittings afterwards. Whatever.... You can find the kit for less than half MSRP (Dexter parts have a huge markup), so a local shop should be able to do this affordably or you can attempt it at home if you are handy, have the jacks and muscles.And your joints don't hurt too badly. You will also need a heavy duty ball joint press, but you can borrow one from Autozone or many parts houses. Here's a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6hXCegZNxE&app=desktop John Davies Spokane WA