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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/15/2017 in all areas
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Hi & Welcome Spike & Liz :) You can find ladders and a bunch of accessories here - https://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/DVETVI1ZF5E8/ref=cm_wl_sortbar_o_page_2?reveal=all&view=null Then as far as recommending things, the very first recommendation that I have is buy this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YJLAIK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=DVETVI1ZF5E8&coliid=I2LDTOZB66F2O6 This way you can regulate the water to the level of pressure that you guys want. Then the list above has a lot of stuff that we use. As far as options, I would definitely get the Truma Hot water heater, Dexter easy flex, most definitely the built in inverter for blow driers, microwave, etc. The thickest mattresses they offer, the propane outside quick connects with the 30lb propane upgrade and at least the 4 - T105 batteries with the Solar. This way you will never be restricted to using a generator or needing to stay in an RV campground for power ever. We also bought the Rhinoflex that is in the Amazon list, the Magma pots and pans and the cooking utensils that we have used for a few years. Plus you will at least want a sewer slinky to put the hose on top of. These are our every day recommendations that really work for us.2 points
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John, the mounting system is still basically the same as is shown in your old photo. The panels will still tilt in either direction just as is shown (albeit, perhaps not to the same degree of angle as could be achieved with that setup.) Don't worry, if you desire to get up there and tilt them, they will have the ability to do so. Since Oliver does not include any provision for holding them up, you will have to fab up some kind of support struts. When you see the way it is all mounted you'll see how easy this will be. During our build back in late 2013, I designed the way our panels are mounted in anticipation of tilting them easily. I really believe that the reason that you've never seen a camping photo with them tilted is that they works so well in the flat position that nobody has ever found the energy to get up there and tilt them. I know I haven't and you may find it to be the same. They are still mounting them in the same manner as mine.1 point
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Thanks for all the info, just a quick followup. Have checked several times with my owners manual regarding tire inflation for towing, zero zilch nada in the Ford manual, go figure, but just went through all of my manuals once again just in case I missed something. Again nothing. Thus the phone calls to the Ford and Michelin. Allow me to clarify a few things. My terminology might not have been correct on inflation. On our F150 the door panel says 35 PSI with a Max of 44 PSI but no info regarding loads, towing and what those values should change to from pound by pound. So by over inflating I meant going past the normal 35 PSI, certainly not 44. I should also add while towing with the standard recommended PSI the truck and camper handle just fine and I have not noticed any unusual wear between the center and outside with the older set of tires, though curiously one tire did have more tread life left and like most of you I check tire pressure often especially before heading out on a trip. The new set of tires, are a bit unusual in that they are NOT a true LT tire, but also are not categorized at P rated tire either and the load rating has been notched up from a 114R to a 116T allowing for something like 2756 lbs of load. So one wouldn't think 450-500 lbs at the hitch would not be much of an event, but it seems like the consensus is everyone else is deriving better performance from higher inflation above the standard recommended. For this upcoming trip based upon the suggestions here I think I will bump up the PSI to around 40 on the rear tires and see how that goes. Thanks1 point
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This 1? http://www.ecodirect.com/Charge-Controller-Comparison-s/251.htm1 point
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Hi, The Blue Sky controller is MPPT technology. I own an Ollie with Blue Sky gear. On page five of the technical manual is the following section. MAXIMUM POWER POINT TRACKING (MPPT) The 2512’s patented MPPT technology can increase charge current up to 30% or more compared to PWM controllers operating 36 cell PV modules. Principal operating conditions affecting current boost performance are PV cell temperature and battery voltage, with lower PV temperature and lower battery voltage producing greater charge current increase. In cool comfortable temperatures, most systems see about 10 – 20% increase. Increase may go to zero in hot temperatures, whereas charge current increase may easily exceed 30% with a discharged battery and freezing temperatures. MPPT also allows efficient use of higher voltage 60 cell modules by converting their much higher voltage down to battery voltage. Ignoring conversion losses, the conversion process produces an output current roughly equal to PV current times the ratio of PV voltage to battery voltage. If a 60-cell module is operating at 23V at 5 amps and battery voltage was 14V, output charge current would be about 5 amps’ times 23V ÷ 14V or about 8 amps. For a more complete MPPT description see www.blueskyenergyinc.com. If you need additional info, just ask. Buzzy1 point
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That would come down to what the specifics of your tire are and what your numbers are from a proper weighing, while fully set up for towing. Maximum weight carrying ability and sidewall strength is achieved at maximum tire inflation, as indicated on the sidewall of the tire. From there each manufacturer has charts explaining what different pressures achieve in regards to weight carrying ability. For example LINK1 point
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Check your vehicle's owner's manual under TOWING and see if it says anything about that. My '84 Nissan pickup's manual actually said to increase the rear tire pressure when under load. It helped to keep the truck level because the tires did not squat as the sidewalls puffed out. Although that little truck is history, I still follow that practice when I am towing. While doing all the things STEVEnBETTY mentioned, it will also help reduce wear on the rear tires because they will not flex as much. Be sure not to exceed the pressure limits found on the sidewalls of the tires.1 point
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Jeff and Liz, glad to hear you ordered your Oliver. We really enjoyed our visit with you and the tour of our trailer at Fort Huachuca in January - despite the cold windy weather! As you can tell already there's lots of expertise here and everyone will be anxious to help. If we get back to Sierra Vista/Fort Huachuca will let you know. Mike1 point
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Reed, Take a look at the article in the link below. Helpful? http://truckcamperadventure.com/2016/10/review-of-the-zamp-zs-30a-solar-charge-controller/ Also, the following YouTube video was interesting. Very brief, yet it describes what I have seen in my panels. Buzzy1 point
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Reed, Let me throw out a few comments/ideas to chew on. 1. Learning how to operate and interpret data from new solar equipment can be daunting at first. Feel free to lean-on our Forum membership for help. Steve (ScubaRX) was the one who helped me. 2. If you could post a link to your on-line technical manual, additional pairs of eyes can analyze the information. Matt, our webmaster, guided me with providing the Dropbox link. 3. I suspect your goal will be to arrive at locating two valuable pieces of data. A. The amount of charge in amps currently on your bank of batteries. B. The number of amps from full. I have access to that data and they are the most valuable. 4. Although I have a reading of volts from my controller to my batteries on the SeaLevel II monitor as well, that data is of no use to me. 5. It does seem as though your system is operating as designed. I would not be too concerned regarding the readings from your array to your controller. The technician is correct that you could see a reading of 18 plus volts coming from your array on a sunny day. I agree with the technician’s comment that the reading of volts from your array is not a meaningful piece of data in your daily operation of your system. 6. It is possible that your controller uses the LED lights within the “Battery Condition” display to communicate the battery amps. I would dig into the manual to determine if a more precise numerical reading is possible. I should think it is! This is an amazingly enjoyable period of discovery! Thank you for your posts! Buzzy1 point
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Congratulations, on finally being/feeling retired, I'm sure it is a well deserved time. I can't wait for when the "journey" is the trip, we're still a long way off.1 point
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Spike I do not have solar panels but I can tell you that the best thing to do is find what meets your needs and is the smallest and most compact possible. That applies to EVERYTHING you carry. You just do not want to have more than necessary. You may want to wait until you get home to see if you need one for the road. I see you live in Sierra Vista. I worked for several years supporting the Intel community at Fort Huachuca. I did not live there but spent weeks there each year. I love it there. There are several beautiful campgrounds around the area. My boss was base commander at Fort Huachuca when Kartchner Caverns was discovered. It now has a great state Campground there. I spent a week there last summer during monsoon season. My Oliver did very well despite some large hail. I left there and spent a week in Monument Valley. I ran off of battery power for several days and was quite comfortable. Oliver is a great Travel Trailer. You made a wise decision.1 point
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Torque Specifications WHEEL LUG NUTS: 90 - 120ft lbs. Note: Oliver has set 110ft lbs as the standard as of 2023 year models & older. BULLDOG COUPLER: 80 ft lbs AXLE/U-BOLTS: 70 ft lbs SHACKLE BOLTS: 40 ft lbs1 point
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