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Kind of odd. I am looking into this.

I talked to Scott Oliver today about this and everything else and they are anxiously waiting to see what we did. I finished editing the movie tonight and it will be uploaded in a couple of days for everyone to check out. They want to compare our fix to theirs and I made a few recommendations on other things as well. It was a good conversation and they want to have everything perfect just like we do. I also talked with him about the Zamp switcheroo and he is checking into the real reason behind that also. There's definitely a wall up between owners and some of the staff because he had only heard of one other owner that had mentioned the tank issue and that wasn't Dave... So I think that we are seeing some changes for the good. At least it seemed that way. Scott said that they listen to and also read our input and they had already implemented the sewer drain fix that I did to mine into the new trailers, I was surprised to say the least and he came off as genuinely caring to me, not just blowing smoke :) Karen broke out the Cobb tonight and we bbqed once again :) Reed

It is pretty plain to see if your fuse has blown. If they look to be in good shape, then I would really recommend looking at the switch connections. Those spade connectors can easily slide off if not crimped correctly and/or if you travel rough roads. In my Elite, one of the two switches is in the kitchen sink cabinet. I pulled out a drawer to get access to the back side. For you, with the switch under the pantry, I don't know. There has to be an access hatch somewhere. The cover plate for these switches will not come off as far as I can tell, however, the switch itself can be popped out of the cover plate (use a plastic putty knife so no scratches). Less room to work, but you can at least check all the connections. The bathroom switch may not pop off the same way, haven't tried it, I'd ask Jason about that. If any one of the connections to those two switches has come loose, the pump will not work! Just my two cents. Please let us know what the issue ends up being. Good luck! Dave

That's exactly right. I operate solely from my onboard fresh water, so I keep a 1-ounce syringe with my Purogene bottle. A few inches of plastic tubing attached to the syringe makes it easy to fill and then just squirt it into the hose. The label on the bottle also has instructions for sanitizing the tank and is a bit safer and easier than using Clorox. Refilling the tank before storage (with 1 ounce Purogene per 30 gallons water) keeps the tank in a sanitized condition.

I kept the vents on ours even though we're swapping out for LFPs. Like you say, it's easy enough to cover them. I doubt that Oliver would give you one without the vents anyway. The dreaded 'certification' and all that.

Try this: https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/US.htm I have the AC powered 3 GPM Sterilight system. Other options (DC, 5 GPM, etc.) are available. The reason I chose AC is that my F-150 has convenient AC power ports and a short extension cord makes life a bit simpler if I can't quite get the truck really close to the water source. Also, here is a link to where I buy my Purogene: http://billydump.com/3r/3rhome.htm The OdorCon product on this page is the same concentration of chlorine dioxide but is not "food grade", per a call to the maker. Rather than carrying two different bottles of the stuff to save a couple of bucks I just use the food grade version (Purogene) for everything.

I would imagine that they are all built for the lowest common denominator, that being wet cells that need to breath, and while AGMs don't require it even they can have an issue. It's easier to add a couple layers of reflectix if desired, than to drill those holes and add those little screens they put in, in case someone decides they really want to install wet cells. My trailer has the double insulation completely surrounding the battery box between the hulls, so has no more heat loss than any other part of the hull. If I knew I we're going lithium, I suppose I would request it be closed off and insulated with holes to the inside for hull heat to keep them as warm as possible when needed (requested part of build I mean)

Angela and Kyle, welcome to the group! Like Steve said I had custom graphics designed and printed before we picked up. Local graphics designer and local print shop. Easy to apply and you're only limited by your imagination! Have fun with it... Mike

Mine is not. Looks like yours. Hasn't been an issue even in the low 20s. Mike

My pump quit working once while on the road. There are two wires that connect to the pump that had worked themselves loose. I crimped the connectors for a tighter fit, and that seems to have fixed it. Mike

The Rally ends today John, Raspy is thinking along the same lines and they headed out this morning. Give me a week to let things materialize, I will be calling the Oliver's tomorrow hopefully. Raspy says he will put a complete kit together for each person that wants to do it themselves if Oliver comes on board of doing the tank fix our way. My take on it is, we fixed the problem and made a complete installation video. I just need to finish editing it and then we're heading up to moms in a few days where I can use her internet to upload the complete movie for everyone to look at. Reed

:) Now that was funny Randy :) I'm putting together the whole water tank mod video but it's too big to upload from my tablet so here is the quicky video of the spin weld itself that we did Friday afternoon. You turn on the router watch the plastic melt and form, then shut off the router, done! Reed