Leaderboard

That sounds right. Thanks for filling in the blanks on that. NIDA-CORE STRUCTURAL HONEYCOMB FIBERGLASS LAMINATED PANEL – The Nida-Core honeycombs are cellular structures with an 8 mm mesh made of polypropylene, which are used to form the core of structural sandwich panels. Their surface coating (non-woven polyester) can be laminated or glued to practically any type of material, for applications in many domains: construction, transport, yachting, industrial equipment, sports, recreation, etc. Specially made for contact and spray lamination. The polyester non-woven material present on the Nida-Core has a surface that is perfectly suited to impregnation with thermosetting resins (polyester, epoxy, etc.) The heat sealing method used to stick this non-woven material to the cellular structure provides a perfect bond. Finally, the plastic film placed under the non-woven material seals the cells and reduces resin consumption. Naval authorization certificate issued by DNV. Germanischer Lloyd certificate. Nida-Core’s Pre-Laminated Panels are made from their H8PP panels and have 1 layer of 1810 fiberglass laminated on each side with Polyester Resin. Nida-Core’s H8PP offers a density of 5 lbs/ft3. Product is sold by the individual sheet. Sheets are 4′ x 8′ (32 sq.ft).

I believe the honeycomb core material is Nidacore. Very expensive, lightweight and very strong.

I have lived with a coy dog for six years. I found her living in a cave at the base of a sacred Indian mountain. She was five months old. She hung out with me while I did some landscape photography. I decided to take her with me. That night I snuck her into my motel room after buying a collar and dog food. She loves people and has been a great companion.

I encourage anyone visiting the factory to arrange a factory tour with Brent. I can't pass on all of the new things I learned about how an Oliver is built, but a few of things stand out. The first is the material they use to reinforce the fiberglass where it needs extra strength. I don't recall what the material is called, but it has a tight honeycomb construction and is relatively thin and very strong. Oliver uses it where other manufacturers of fiberglass products (especially boats) use wood. Brent showed me an area where pieces of this material cut in various sizes and shapes are stored. The second thing is that Oliver employees use small rollers to hand roll the fiberglass to remove air from the fiberglass. The rollers are very small and I watched two employees use these rollers going over a small area of fiberglass many, many times to remove the air. Brent said it is very unusual to do this by hand, but it's very important to make the fiberglass strong. A third thing I was struck by is the fact that Oliver makes all of the wiring harnesses in the campers in-house rather than having them made overseas with cheap labor. They think it's really important to ensure quality. These are expensive campers, but I'm convinced that Oliver is driven to employ methods and materials to endure high quality, longevity and low maintenance rather than finding less expensive alternatives. You get what you pay for!

I should have included that all tanks were empty ( except for the 20# LP tanks). and the truck bed was moderately (approx 125#) loaded. This could make a difference as well. The next time I hook up on a level pad, I will take another measurement to the inside of the bulldog. Terry

Hmmm... The Zamp Solar sells for $1100 online, it would be nice to know what price Oliver has on it before installation being that it's a $2800.00 option.

You can also tilt the trailer to the right when rinsing, to encourage the debris to collect near the opening. I always wondered why the designers did not make the inside of the tank slope toward the opening, and also minimize the height of the lip. It does act as a dam.... It isn’t critical to get it surgically clean, just flushed regularly. John Davies Spokane WA

John, They charged $1,000 for the composting toilet and $400 for labor. The rest was sales tax. I'll post photos of the installation at some point. I'm very happy with the installation. I plan to dump my grey water using a garden hose. The stinky slinky is going into the garbage can. I can run the hose from my driveway into the woods at home. I anticipate using the hose in dump stations sometimes when I can't dump the grey tank using the hose at a campsite. I think I'll be able to do this while boondocking and maybe at some BLM campsites in the west. I won't go into detail, but Jason and Richie treated me very well during the service. They did a number of things at no charge and treated me very well on a large issue that could have cost me $500-$600. I don't feel free to share details, but I left Hohenwald feeling very satisfied with the fairness of the overall experience.

The video tells you to pump AF through the city water, tank fill and black flush connections, to ensure that those short sections of the system are protcted; since none of them are on the pressure side of the water pump, they will not get filled otherwise. PS any auto parts store will sell you a fluid pump designed to go into a bottle of gear oil. There is no reason not to use it with AF, but I would clearly mark it so you don’t get mixed up. You just need to add an adapter nipple and fitting onto the hose to connect to the female water hose fittings on the side of the trailer. John Davies Spokane WA

We used to winterize 40+ units, at a campground we used hang around, every fall. We blew out every one with air(we also did the supply hoses just to be sure) and then added antifreeze. It is a process that, so far, has never failed us. Air alone can leave just a enough moisture to gather, freeze, and maybe split a line. We watched the Oliver video, and then pulled out the owner's manual. There seems to be differences between the two. Also we found multiple errors in the manual. If you have never winterized your Oliver before I would suggest, before gathering everything, you do a dry run. Just so you know where the right valves are, and switches(we tag them while we were there). An example is, in multiple places, it is stated that you need a 1 1/8" socket--- what I really need is a 1 1/16" socket to pull the anode. Switches and layout have been updated, but evidently the manual they gave me had not been. I had been led to believe that during sales talks and brochures that you drop a hose into a bottle of antifreeze, turn on the pump, and voila - unit was done. Evidently not so, now you need a hand pump to do a couple of places and no one around here carries them. We have started a checklist, a step by step guide if you will, for my particular unit. Two side notes: we always turn all valves back to standard operating positions when winterization is complete. So that it is ready to go at a moment's notice. The other is, we opened the compartment toward the back from the pump compartment. We found the heater hose had some strange kinked bends in it. We did straightened them out. We probably will shorten the hose a little and support it better. The idea is it will allow easier airflow to the passenger compartment, and after all, that is where I live.