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I’ve had the front off of the bathroom vanity a couple of times. Four screws. Just pry off the covers, unscrew and break the caulking. What’s in there is what you would expect, hot and cold fresh water lines, HVAC ducting, black vent pipe and electrical connections for the water pump. If you add urine to your gray water tank is it still a gray water tank? Or does it become black? If you have urine in your gray tank and your traps go dry is there a sanitary issue since it’s a direct connection with your sinks and shower? If you have urine in your gray tank and forget to close the gate while traveling and have a back up in the shower pan, would that be acceptable? Also, is the plastic that forms the black tank rated for drinkable fresh water? How do you fill the “black” tank with fresh water, through the black tank flush port? These are questions that popped into my head as I read through this thread again.

Fwiw, if I had a composting toilet ( and I don't), and I wanted to utilize the black tank, I think I would look at directing the urine to the black tank, along with the grey water from the bathroom sink. Understanding that I would run the risk of voiding some warranties, i think it would likely be the simplest plumbing, and most hygenic use of a tank designated and situated for black contents. A number of rvs dump vanity sink to the nearby black tank, as do many boats. Adding the sink water to dilute the urine could possibly minimize the odor. Keep the vent. Dump less frequently. My thoughts. Sherry

We officially closed the deal on a new Elite II Monday. Our production start date is scheduled for March 20 and we are told it will be ready for the rally. We are signed up, have a site at the park and are looking forward to meeting other owners. See you there! Scott and Veronica Dyer

There are a number of fresh water lines near the water pump, the line at the very bottom of main fresh tank would be my choice to tee into. You might have to disconnect and move some other lines to get in there. You will need a manual ball valve where you can reach it easily, say under the front dinette, so you can leave that closed until the big fresh tank is nearly empty. Otherwise the black tank will just drain and empty into it, and the excess will flow right out the fresh vent hose... I haven't opened up the bathroom vanity, but others have. There are pictures floating around. It is pretty straight forward, you should have no trouble at all reaching the black tank vent. You will need to cut it and cap it, and also cap the main waste vent that you removed it from. While you are under there, disconnect and cap the fresh water hose that goes to the unused flush toilet, so you no longer have to winterize that part. Leave it to where somebody could easily hook it back up in the future... Have fun, please start a new thread with pics. John Davies Spokane WA

I have never even considered a truck wash. Can you tell us how they work? Are they automatic, are there rotating brushes? Blow dry? Do you worry about damage to all the stuff up top? I am pretty anal about the finish on my vehicles and Ollie. I loathe drive-through car washes that scratch the paint with stiff rotating fibers or brushless floppy things, and won’t use one, ever. I don’t even like the harsh soaps that are used at the quarter car washes, so I won’t use more than the rinse cycle and never the brush on a stick. I do use a commercial place in the winter when it is too cold to do it myself, to get off the deicer, but it is a pressure pre-rinse followed by a hand wash. And they only do a 6 out of 10 star job, at best. And it does scratch, so I have to rewax in the spring. https://jalopnik.com/heres-why-you-should-never-take-your-car-to-a-carwash-1821475097 OTH a lot of people don’t really care very much about their paint, especially if they change vehicles often. But if you want to keep it twenty years, you should.... Thanks for any comments on the truck wash. I would like to see a pic of your Ollie parked among a bunch of big rigs. John Davies Spokane WA

Don’t wash at the campground, it usually pisses everybody off. Maybe if you were a long term resident and the trailer was parked for months, if the owner agreed. A wipe down with detailing spray is fine. Here is a tip..... use Rejex on the trailer and TV, especially on the roof and front. It is so slick that bugs and tree drippings do not stick very well. Some users say “the bugs just rinse off”; LOL that isn’t even close to true. But cleaning is way, WAY easier. I got my Land Cruiser completely covered in mud when exploring thawing dirt backroads in late winter. I used a quarter car wash at a small town and blasted off 95% of it using only the fresh water rinse mode, no nasty harsh soap or scrubbing was needed. Washing this way gets it pretty darned clean, and you can get out your ladder and take off the bugs from the front and solar panel, and wipe the windows and wheels with a good detail spray like Griots Speed Shine. I normally don’t bother to do a complete wash on a trip, but my longest one was three weeks. If you are a marathoner, you need to be able to clean it somewhat on the road. If I did both vehicles, I would wash the Ollie first, and then do the TV later with more care without the trailer attached so I didn't blow junk onto the clean trailer. Most people want their TV to look nice (you are always seeing crusty old farts spending hours fussing with getting bugs out of the chrome grills of their HD trucks) and they seem to be less concerned about a completely spotless trailer. Finally, if your climate has morning dew, attack the bugs daily by hand on the grill and windshield, and the front of the trailer, while they are soaking wet and they will come off quite easily. When they are like dried epoxy and the surface is scorching hot you risk scratching the surfaces by scrubbing too hard.... John Davies Spokane WA

Just to say I remain a HUGE fan of the Werner convertible ladders. If you will be on the road a lot and have room in the bed of the truck this is a great choice. I quit carrying mine when I switched from a pickup to an SUV. I replaced it with a less bulky cheap telescoping ladder in the closet. There is no comparison in quality, features and most importantly stability. I continue to use and enjoy the Werner around the house. You wouldn’t regret this one..... https://us.wernerco.com/products/ladders/multi-ladders/MTIAASeries/MTIAA-13 The box stores have them on sale for 20% off every now and then. Home Depot has it now for $115. If you decide to remove that pesky water seal under the awning, you can lash the extended ladder to the awning cover with rope, with a towel for padding, and it makes for a rock solid roof access. No more nagging worries about going up top and hearing your ladder fall over .... ! When used as a step ladder, the blue plastic knobs protect the side of the trailer from scratches. John Davies Spokane WA