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For those of us who have been around for a few decades or so, probably have a collection of USB cords numbering anywhere from the hundreds to perhaps the thousands. I know I do. I decided to go through all of mine and sort them by type. For anyone that's not been paying attention there are currently three types of USB cables: A-B-C. Within these types there are at least five sub-types. Within all of these there are many versions of capabilities and speeds. Some will only carry data, some will only carry power. Some will carry both. Before I started sorting I wrote a little document to help me understand the differences. All this information was copied from multiple sites on the internet so I know it is all accurate. 🤪 I have included a PDF for anyone that has nothing better or more interesting to do. Enjoy... USB Cable Types.pdf

I have a friend in town that owns Tupelo Trophy, a shop that does all sorts of engraving. A well as hundreds of other things, she made all the custom switch plates for us that we have installed in The Outlaw Oliver. I showed her my plate and she said she could duplicate it. I may let her duplicate mine just to see how it turns out. I'll post a before and after picture when its done.

@ScubaRx Great idea! I hadn't thought of a trophy shop. I'm anxious to see the results. Do you have or need the original artwork? If so, I think @topgun2 has it or I can send it to you if needed. Thanks, Tony

I tested it one month when I knew we wouldn't be traveling and It actually works pretty good for making WIFI phone calls and for doing some lite web surfing. Did several speed tests and was getting around 500Kbps. I think $5 per month to have the ability to do this anywhere in the US with a clear view of the sky is a crazy good deal. We've been using the residential $50/100 Mbps plan and have just been changing our "home address" to every place we camp. Works great (so far) and it's the only reason we haven't switched to the mini dish yet since they won't let you subscribe to a residential plan with a mini. I'll have no issue moving over to a roam plan and mini if they take this feature away, though.

Chris: So sad to read about your spring failure 40 miles in the boondocks with your 5 year old Ollie. Your situtation was very close to a discussion in early 2024 on how to deal with two flats. In April 2024 I posted a DIY for a simular situtation and over time reposted that a two flat situtation and a spring failure. Both likely could be handled by the process discussed in the attachment below. I would love to hear you thoughts on probability of success it would have had in your out-back situtaiton. Also any suggested edits would be greatly appreciated. Now back to whimpy springs......No matter how an Oliver is used, springs should not be an issue for at least a decade or two of use. Certainly not in a trailer less than ten years old. At this point well over 200 owners have gone with the Alcan springs, and about ten with the Dexter 2400's. Regardless of which higher rated spring replacement one uses, they are a problem that can not be ignored. We are now aware that well over 200 OE2 owners have replaced their undersprung 1750's with either the Dexter 2400 or the Alcan's, I am thrilled that OTT is now using the larger braked D52 axles, but disappointed that they are still using those 1750 # rated springs. I strongly suggest that OTT provide an option for the Dexter 2400 and/or the Alcan equivalent springs. They would well compliment the D52 axles. Geronimo John

Camped just outside of Grand Junction awaiting our Tuesday appointment with Alcan for an axle upgrade. Already did the 5200# spring upgrade as we were treated to the sight of a broken spring last fall. As these things generally go, our breakdown was nearly 40 miles off the nearest highway. The tow, springs, labor and expenses related to this adventure reached well over $4000, of which $1800 was thankfully covered by insurance. When one of these cheap 3500# spring breaks in the usual spot, the trailer will not be able to be moved to any serious degree as the remaining spring will contact the wheel well if a bump of any consequence is experienced and the fibreglass wheelwell will be badly damaged. This would not be an easy or cheap fix. My advice to any considering an axle and spring upgrade is to do it and sleep easy.

Put on 50k miles since repair. No changes or movement. Craig hull 505 (Galway Girl)

Really! Who would use the Standby plan anyway, for more than its intended purpose? Just enough bandwidth to remote connect via the Starlink app, then upgrade to the $50 mobile plan or better ASAP! For on the road, mount a cell antenna and router which these days provides good service in 90% of roads out west and 99% when traveling east. On our summer trip to Northern Minnesota, we only used Starlink at our first campsite in New Mexico. Then all the way there and back, we did not need it again until we entered Wyoming. Then we used Starlink at each camp coming home. Though when towing, even in these remote areas, our cell antenna kept us connected more often than not. 😎

I can understand private aviation being angry with the change, but crying over the 10mph limit on standby plans just doesn't make sense to me. You can have connectivity virtually anywhere in the US for $5 per month and you're going to complain because you have to be stationary to do so?

Only if you needed them to work..... 🙂

The weather finally cooperated with me today and I fixed a few things on the camper. The last thing fixed was the replacement of the front axle brake wire. Do you think this could have been a problem with my trailer brakes? 🤣 No test drive yet, but I suspect we will no longer have issues with intermittent brakes on the trailer.

Highs in Prescott are 65F this week. Most of the year I can be outside working. I understand the East has been hammered this year. I hope spring comes early for y'all this year! 😂 Spent the whole day getting everything straight that I noticed during our recent trip, while getting ready for our next trip to St George UT, just 4 weeks away! I corrected the battery support issue and installed our new LP regulator. I did a full inspection of the battery post. The single bolt was in place, the nut was there but loose, with only one thread showing. The two angle-irons seemed to be aligned at a good angle. The base mount has two bolts screwed horizontally and firmly into the frame. The two large upper bolts holding the battery platform were solid. The battery base is square, the door flush, and everything looked good. I decided there was no need to raise the post, since the one bolt at the bottom of the grove was were it was when installed 10 years ago. The original bolt is a 5/16" bolt 1/2" head and since the groove was wider, I added a second 3/8" #5 bolt 9/16" head. I drilled about 3/8" below the top of the groove which would allow for raising the mount if ever needed. Drilling though both angle-irons, with a sharp drill bit, drilling slowly took some patience! Then Chris held a ratchet with a double-long socket extension under the streetside bed opening, as I tightened from the rear dinette opening with my favorite DeWalt 3/8" impact! I first tightened the original bolt, with a short burst of the impact and it now has 5 threads showing. It certainly was loose, still hanging on! Then we tightened the other bolt which has thread sealant and a Nylok nut to boot. This is done now, likely no need for future maintenance! 😎

I was wondering if anyone would notice those. The latch is still in working order, but I know many trays with a single latch would sheer off. Those blocks of oak wood with two screws in each have been there since 2021. I think Jason Essary even mentioned them when he saw them, and how they seem to work well. LOL You have a keen eye Bill. You win the prize for spotting them.

I apologize for the thread drift - but - those battery slide tray stops are interesting. Cheap, easy to remove/replace and appear to be effective. Bill

I was thinking the same thing as you JD. However, I am not confident, no matter what I do, even multiple bolts, that my home-brew fix will hold up to the weight of four AGMs above, with road bumps. I'm no metal guy but I'm thinking of an adjustable solution. Something like this device, (only an example and quick search). https://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-lifting-leveler?country=US&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V91190&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17424410624&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtfXMBhDzARIsAJ0jp3C2O8eZqs9M8M7CpmGG4oAKjWuDowPNrbrKNJUMh9-A2esKafqTJ6IaAlxpEALw_wcB I will notify Oliver Service so they know of the issue and see what they suggest as well. It's best they have proper metrics for future improvements. Cheers,

@jd1923, I also have the Noco Genius 10 for maintaining the chassis batteries on my motorized RVs. Last summer I accidentally let the chassis battery on my Pleasure Way discharge completely. After using the repair mode on the charger, it's been holding a full charge. Noco claims the repair mode pushes up to 16.5 volts to reverse battery sulfation and stratification caused by storage at low charge. Maybe @DBL-R can restore the existing batteries with such a charger.

Getting there! When you're home, I would turn OFF the onboard converter (there should be a breaker for it in the AC panel) and try another charger. Perhaps some of the comments re your converter could be true. I use this model at home and always travel with it. It has a repair mode too for what happened in your case getting too low on voltage. It can be switched between LA/AGM/LiFePO4 batteries. I purchased the 10A model is fine for battery maintenance/overnight charging. They also have higher amperage models (larger and more expensive). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3QT226/?th=1

David, I believe Bill's note was addressed to my comment (not yours) which made me think. So I removed a sentence I had written that was in poor taste. Your post will help me in my repair and others who may have this issue. You demonstrated excellent work which others can follow. Wow, 110 days in your first year, 90% Boondocking! Those are good numbers! We have 150 overnights in two years 60% Boondocking. Our percentage will go up now that we can run our A/C off the inverter! The only reason to plug in was to run the A/C when we ran into hot weather more often than we liked!

My post was not meant in any way to be a complaint about my Oliver or the company. I believe Olivers are the best built trailer in the market. We have had nothing but wonderful interactions with the employees also. They have always treated us just like family. The quality shows after about 110 days camping in it in 2025 (90% boondocking). The post was only to help others with the issue if they experience it. Other owners post have helped me so much in the past. I will fill out a service ticket on Monday so Oliver can be aware of this. We LOVE our Oliver Elite ll.

After seeing this thread I decided to check my battery support this morning. I really didn't expect to see any problem, but I received a surprise. My battery box support had two holes with no bolts. After some searching I found the bolt heads peeking out from around the wiring harness and after getting those I lifted the wiring harness and found the nuts. The idea of using a small bottle jack in this thread worked for me. I was able to place a 4 ton jack in there and raised the bracket until the holes were aligned enough to start the bolts, but I could not get them to go all the way. The angle of the bracket was off. I chose to use a small c-clamp on the bracket going from curb side to street side, that allowed the bolts to go through enough to get the nuts started. Finished it up with some blue Loctite on the threads. I have enclosed some photos of the repair. Finding this on my one year old Oliver was not expected. I would encourage everyone to check this support bracket on your Oliver to prevent future problems.

Well, I cannot believe it took me this long to find the issue with my intermittent brakes after Oliver failed to put on new axles for me last year. Since then I've been dealing with my RAM disabling the brakes periodically. No rhyme or reason... (known to me). At least three or four of you folks here would have found this sooner than me, I'm sure of it. As suggested by some, I verified all ground wires going inside the trailer from the brake bundle on the drivers side (only for snugness). I have even replaced all brake bundle connectors, some I did twice just to be sure (today). But the good thing is I learned a great deal, and I found a ton of wire connector corrosion along the way. Even the 7-pin connector (now replaced) was not looking good. But what I DID NOT check was the actual copper wire condition going INTO the negative/ground bus-bar inside the trailer. Well, after checking, re-checking, re-checking again all brake connectors today, and verified voltage to all brakes, I think I found what someone at Oliver had done. See, when they initially removed my axles from #110 last year, in hopes that the new axles would fit my frame (that's another thread), they slapped my old axles back on, and hence re-ran the wires back into the trailer (creating the new issue). Sure I checked for snug negative screws, but I never actually pulled out the wire from the bus-bar. Look what I found today. After fixing this "mess", and ensuring the sheathing was not inside the bus bar, my third test drive for the day was a success, but who knows, I've driven four hours in the past, before my truck was bitching about low voltage for the brakes. This had to be the issue, I hope. I was also able to snug up the main nut to the chassis ground, although I know that was not the primary issue. Sigh!

We have not yet traveled since my repair.