Leaderboard

Hi everyone — I previously did an intro in the introductions section, but my wife and I are new (to us) Oliver owners (about 2 months in). We’ve camped twice so far and already have several trips planned over the next several months, including a lot of boondocking in USFS campgrounds. I've had travel trailers of various forms for about 20 years and we are super excited to now be Oliver owners. I just finished a lithium / inverter / portable solar upgrade on our 2019 Legacy Elite II (Hull 514) and put together a detailed project write-up with photos, wiring approach, parts list, and lessons learned (see attached). The trailer came from the factory without an inverter, no roof solar, and no solar connector. It had two AGM batteries when we bought it. The main goal was a clean, reliable, serviceable install that leverages the existing factory AC/DC wiring/routing and keeps the system simple (including an inline inverter/charger pass-through so the trailer’s AC panel works “like stock,” just with inverter capability). I found great info on this forum as I undertook this project and hope to give back just a little by posting this as a practical reference for anyone planning a similar upgrade — happy to answer questions or share any additional photos/details if it helps. Happy camping!! Lithium Inverter Solar Write-Up.pdf

Yeah, cool technology, but we already know the OEM bearing is the Timken Set49. Also, it's safer to only use manufacturer's spec vs. any website content. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-set49 Genuine Timken parts are NOT often "easily accessible" and make sure you're buying from an authorized reseller. For example, say you broke down and were lucky enough to be close to a local Napa. They would sell you a China-made alternative that would take 1-2 days to arrive at the store location, while you're broke down somewhere. Then you have to get it installed. Not many PT Cruisers on the road anymore and in general AP stores only stock parts for new-model cars < 10 years old. I found this entering the 2010 PT Cruiser on Napa Online: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PGBPFW115 Ken and I worked through this when I tested the bearing install procedure (linked in my prior post on page 5). He has replacement bearings, related parts and tools already purchased and he travels with them. I got lucky getting damaged axle parts, so I carry two full bearing hub/drum assemblies in the TV toolbox (I also carry new Timken front hubs for the Dodge Ram). In my case, if a bearing goes bad, I can be back on the road in 1-2 hours! 😎 However buying full assemblies is exorbitant! I truly suggest if this is a concern of your, read the post I made showing bearing removal and replacement. At a minimum, do yourself a favor a buy 2-4 Timken Set49 bearings. Then you'll have the parts you need so that any trailer shop can install them for you. To be very safe, you may want to have extra circlips, nuts and washers. And if you want to DIY, my post details the required toolset.

@DaveAndBecky_NorthernMI I would look over that emergency brake away switch VERY carefully for any signs of damage. If the box was warm, or worse, hot, when you pushed the plastic pin back in, it could have melted the pin at the crimp point, essentially cutting off the end of the pin at the narrow point. I had a pin melt, and when next pulled for annual inspection, the "point" of the pin remained inside the box. Then, I got in my truck to find a tractor supply store. They have crap for good emergency brake aways, but in a pinch, they'll do. That's a lot of amps on two pieces of metal in a tiny box. A pretty easy replaceable item, if you're back is not crap like mine. LOL

You might want to look into Coy's mobile tracking solar set-up that several Oliver Owners are using. Hopeful these owners will chime in and provide info on contacts and how the system works. With your set-up that could be a game changer.

I’ll keep my Suburban water heater.

Just to clarify quickly. The Fogatti tankless are DIY install or can be and as I understand it also repairable by individuals given their error code readouts if an individual has one show up. They are Nothing like the Truma company which I wouldn't touch with a 10 foot pole due to the issues stated above and more. Depending on the model the prices range from $500-$800 give or take a few bills. Their efficiency rating is around 93-94 or so with endless hot water which of course you wouldn't use with an Oliver due to its rather smallish fresh water tank. As for the Fiamma 45S @Wayfinder we rarely use ours but do on occasion. Setting it up is a PITA but I guess with practice one can become more efficient and for what ever reason ours will not totally close on the rear end. Its been that way for years.

I just removed a ScotchLok under the pantry where a brake wire was extended, YET, was as tight as a piano wire. Discovered before I replaced the final torn up axle/brake wire. One less ScotchLok. Quite difficult to work under that pantry.

For those who have never used "Grok," I have provided a sample below. The thing I find so wonderful about Grok is the ability to ask a common language question about a hard to understand subject and get an answer you can use. If something confuses you, you simply type a followup on the same form saying something like: "Please explain XYZ more, I am not getting it. Grok then continues. The below screen shot is what Grok gave me when I asked it to give me the exact match of Timken bearing to the Dexter Neverlube bearing (serial number from my D52 build sheet. Have fun.

I'd prefer not having another maintenance item, but thanks to Mike, next time our Oliver is home for service I will certainly open this junction box, remove all wire nuts and electrical tape, strip wires down to good copper, or replace wiring if necessary, and use butt connectors! Wire nuts and Wago connectors are not automotive grade! I've never used Wago products and likely never will. Wire nuts are for 120VAC residential solid-core wires. Wire nuts will not hold stranded wire effectively! Butt connectors are designed for stranded wire in automotive 12VDC systems to hold properly with movement/vibration. Another No-No is using ScotchLoks to add a wire. When I need to connect a third wire, I use a butt connector one size larger. Fold the wire to double thinkness on the side that has one wire. I had a boss years ago who said during a team meeting, "Anybody using ScotchLoks in installations will no longer be working for us!" OTT uses them often too and I remove them as needed. 😒

Anyone with the Suburban hot water tank should check their power connections annually. Had I checked I could have caught the issue before the meltdown. I’m sure it’s been going on for years. One screw is all that is holding the cover on. Mike

Th good news is I’ve had several folks on FB say they’ve ha no issues with Trumas at high elevations. I think even Suburbans need a tiny simple adjustment. But can be done by anyone with a screwdriver.

And how long for that special order? This is not "broke down on road" feasible. The point was to order ahead of time vs. looking for a parts store at the point of need. Sorry on the typo on the part number. The Summit link above shows the correct part number "Set49"

Yep, I've seen this video too. FWIW you can find all sorts of opinions on everything on the internet both positive and negative. I know of one person who has tried them all, Suburban, Truma, but uses the Fogatti now and likes it the best.

Yeah, actually the “original” bearings supplied with my axles and actually your Dexters as well (you sent me a photo of the one bearing that you pulled from one of the new axle assemblies) are NTN not Timken. Which are high quality bearings and in fact were easily attainable at my local auto parts store and listed for the 2010 PT Cruiser. I do agree don’t buy off brand bearings or questionable brands like the fake Timken bearings from amazon. The SET 49 (not 149) from Timken are available at auto parts stores as well you just have to ask for them.

That also lets you actually use the last 7 gallons of fresh water...

I’m 6’2” so the manual awning for me is super quick.

I was trying to decide how to reply to @routlaw when @Mike and Carol chimed in. I have not had a tankless, so this is unfair. But there is a lot of plastic in the Trumas, more technical knowledge is required, only meaning more codes and such people have to go figure out. I should not say this, cuz my tank will break next week, but I've not YET has any issues with my 10 year Suburban 6 gallon tank. I do flush it twice a year and have given tech-talks on the process at Egg rallies. You do not need to be certified to work on them and can get parts anywhere for them. Not sure if Suburban techs have ever had to attend an Oliver rally.... year after year, after year, and be busy the entire week, and bring van fulls of parts and spares. Just saying. I'm pulling my soon-to-be old man card on this one. I'm keeping my suburban water tank and my Fiamma F45S manual awning. Over my dead body they're getting changed out with "better technology". Bulls**t. 😊🤣

There are advantages to a tankless. I like the simplicity of the Suburban tank, any needed repairs are pretty straightforward. My last issue was an installation problem, not a tank problem. Mike

Timely subject just about to make the decision to change to a Fogatti tankless water heater. This seems to be divisive subject amongst RV folks but I certainly like the idea of it.

Sounds about right for the drop in my truck mpg.

Update. We got the Sierra EV last August, and picked up the Oliver at the factory in March. You can read a trip report here of our 6k mile trip https://www.fiberglassrv.com/threads/meet-sparky-the-electric-oliver.2190937/ There were some sharp opinions here about EV's, you can read the details over there that it far exceeded my expectations. Zero problems. We drove for hours through wilderness with no infrastructure and boondocked - not an issue (somebody here had some weird theory about that). Even I had trouble believing how well it worked in these conditions, in fact it liked the (slower speed) backcountry better than, say I40 in a windstorm. It's the regen you see, but surprisingly it regenerated (captured) more energy than I'm used too - all that trailer energy too, backcountry across the Sierras, it just gained so much energy on the way down from the peaks. It just drove, and drove and drove ... not to mention, while the 'generator symphony' would start up in some campgrounds, we silently topped off from the truck. I've towed plenty with ICE, and between Supercruise, the torque, the power, the spare campground power, the silence, I'll say EV towing is now better than ICE towing. That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it, but to each his own. But enough of the drive train - who really cares? Pick your poison. The trouble was all with the Ollie. Us getting used to it that is. The composting toilet took getting the hang of (you can read the details over there). The Xantrex was a bit of a learning curve, because there's so many generations. The present generation can't be reset if you put a bad setting in. But the tech support at Xantrex was great, it was easily fixed by simply plugging into shore power. Oliver owners are indeed very friendly in person, but Steve if you're out there, sorry we couldn't chat but ya gotta appreciate, it was getting dark and the we just got the thing and needed to set up! 😅 Mark and Sandy - enjoyed talking to you, hope you're making good use of the carrier. Finally, of interest to this group; I have precise information about the Oliver aerodynamics. It isn't marketing fluff! In good conditions (no wind etc) I get a 35% towing loss @60 mph, this is phenomenal. And reminder; towing loss has NOTHING to do with the drive train. It's exactly the same for EV versus ICE. So you piston pounders are also getting this same loss. Otherwise, we love our Ollie. Even my skeptical family. Sure bigger would be great, but that's a slippery slope.

Also a late follow-up: Like others, our filter assembly was missing the o-ring where it connects to the pump inlet.

Check to make sure that your brake "breakaway switch" wasn't accidentally pulled out. If so, the electric brakes have been on the whole time. Four brakes would draw 3-4 amps each. If you were reading 2-3 amps draw on your Lithionics battery App, then that's only one of the 3 batteries. So it's actually 9-12 amps. Add in the solar input and it's about right for what the brakes would draw. Good luck, Geoff