ScubaRx

"...Note: it's the black thing in the picture with the negative leads running through it..." The "black thing" shown in your picture is the shunt that is included with Victron 712 monitor. The shunt measures the real-time voltage of your battery system as well as the current draw. The 712 battery monitor uses these measurements to calculate the state of charge, power consumption, estimated remaining runtime, and other beneficial information about your battery system. With the 712 monitor, you don't need Bluetooth unless you just like using a app on your phone instead of simply looking at the direct readout on the 712.

Early 2009 thru mid 2013.

In the early days, their go to caulk was 3M 4200 and MMA 300 High-Performance Methyl Methacrylate was their adhesive of choice. I don’t recall ever seeing them use 3M 5200.

I doubt it.

Would someone please explain to me why you need this port?

The Blue Sky system works just as effectively as the Victron does. It just doesn’t have all the bells and whistles like Bluetooth and color displays. You’re not taking the whole picture into consideration. In your example your batteries must be somewhat less than fully charged therefore they were accepting a slight charge and you apparently had no appreciable load at the time so you see a small positive value going to your batteries. According to his photos, it appears his batteries are fully charged, therefore no charge going in. The negative difference in the two values is most likely a slight load that is taking away from the power coming down from the panels.

If you’re referring to the Blue Sky controller as shown in the pictures, it is a MPPT rather than a PWM controller. The Zamp is the PWM system.

Because the generator is only supplying power to run your onboard charger which may be as low as 45 amps output.

I can personally attest that driving the 40 mile washboard gravel road into Chico Culture with 80psi in the Oliver tires is both stupid and detrimental to the Oliver. I'm not completely convinced that it didn't slightly alter the earth's orbit around the sun as well.

Sorry, I assumed those were Harbor Freight. Either will work just fine. As a side note, I forgot to remove mine in the driveway once. I drove about 10 feet with them skidding along before they finally gave up and let me run over them. Ruined one (broke it).

Quite possibly.

I've successfully used this method from the attic down between studs on the interior of our house. I believe the wire chase in the rear of the Oliver is too tight with wires for this to work.

The only thing I would change here is to turn the HF chocks over. The ridged side should be on the ground and the slightly concave side should be against the tire. In another of your subsequent posts it is clearer than these photos that they are upside down. Also, when breaking camp, raise those rear jacks before raising the tongue. Keep the chocks in place until completely hooked up. You don't want to make the front jack try to lift the whole weight of the trailer and you certainly don't want the trailer at the bottom of the hill. I think you made poor campsite into a completely workable one. We've run into this same problem in various spots, especially at Quartzsite.

If you’re going to be at either the Alabama or the Maine rally, come by and I can show you more. Site E-05 in Guntersville. Not sure about Maine.

The wire chase from the attic to the basement is in the aft port corner. I used a fiberglass rod to work from bottom to top. Once placed I pulled a piece of bulk weed eater cord down to the basement. I left enough cord rolled up at each end to pull from either direction. When finished, leave this pull line in place for future use. Additionally, using this technique, I have successfully placed pull lines from the inside of the closet through the ceiling to the inside of the cabinet over the microwave and side to side behind the pantry.

Have you completely removed the slider window, all the rubber channels and cleaned them by hand? After reinstalling it all spray the tracks with some dry lubricant for window tracks. Doing so will go a long way toward making those windows move easily and smoothly.

For indoor target practice I always enjoyed a Blow-Gun. It takes air to operate it so I don't feel like I'm hi-jacking the thread. I would practice for hours at home nights in the wintertime. I'd set up a cardboard target across the room in front of the wood stove fireplace insert and tape a kitchen match to it. I finally got to the point that I could light the match from about 15 feet away. Not a particularly useful skill I'll admit but you never know when a match wielding thug might break in and need to be rapidly dispatched. If I can hit a match head, surely I can hit a person. You have to be careful though. You wouldn't want to shoot his eye out.

I really don't think RVIA cares what lettering is placed onto the upper light. The reason it is no longer a brake light (and hasn't been since 2009) is it is against the standards set by RVIA. Oliver has nothing to say about it. As far as custom lettering went they would put anything you asked them to on it. We had "Outlaw" on our 2008 Oliver. I forgot to tell them during our 2013 build to do the same. As delivered in 2014... They re-cut the overlay to say "Outlaw" and installed it for me a few years later. It basically boiled down to who you asked.

I spoke to Anita yesterday and passed on everyone's well wishes. For some reason she is unable to access the forum inside the facility so she's not been able to respond here. She is currently in a step-down rehab facility in Columbia, TN. She states she is still in a lot of pain, but she is very appreciative of all our thoughts and prayers. She thinks she may be there several months. I'm hopeful that won't be the case. She did say that she is able to get into a wheelchair for short periods of time. They do not want her sitting up too long at this period of her rehab.

I don't know if conner77 will have it ready before the end of the rally. We plan on leaving the Alabama Oliver Rally and immediately start slowly heading North to the Maine Oliver Rally. But, I'll be happy to show you how to do it while we're in Booth Bay in June, maybe others will be interested as well.

I realize this is very contrary to what most people think of or recommend when attaching something to a surface in the Oliver. The first hole you drill is always the hardest. After that first one, you'll feel more at ease drilling the next. I've drilled so many in mine through the years, I've probably lightened it a couple of pounds. You really will be pleased with the stability as a result.

I wondered about access and I'm sure you are correct about others having the same problem. However, if you can get to the screws to install longer ones, could you not get to the same area to install a nut onto a bolt inserted from the outside? If so, put your longer screws in and let them come through the fiberglass to the outside. Then you would know where to drill holes for a bolt. Since, I don't have this setup, I'm really just trying to imagine how I'd fix it if I did. Thoughts?

I didn't mention this, but probably should have. I'd use 1/4" SS button head machine screws. They look pretty good. And you will be able to see them on the aisle wall. I would try to make them line up vertically and horizontally so they create a box or rectangle shape, just for aesthetics.

We discovered a long time ago that if you lower the tongue as far as the front jack will go, you hardly have to lift the generator at all to get it into the basket. 😊 I do like your hydraulic lift table though.

Actually, RE: Champion 2500 Watt Inverter: When the 1.05-gallon tank of gasoline is full, the 79cc Champion engine produces 2500 starting watts and 1850 running watts and will run for up to 11.5 hours at 25% load. When using a 20-pound propane tank, it produces 2500 starting watts and 1665 running watts and will run for up to 34 hours at 25% load. Be aware that all generators will lose 10-15% of their output using propane. This is due to the differences in BTU's between gasoline and propane.