ScubaRx

I wondered about access and I'm sure you are correct about others having the same problem. However, if you can get to the screws to install longer ones, could you not get to the same area to install a nut onto a bolt inserted from the outside? If so, put your longer screws in and let them come through the fiberglass to the outside. Then you would know where to drill holes for a bolt. Since, I don't have this setup, I'm really just trying to imagine how I'd fix it if I did. Thoughts?

I didn't mention this, but probably should have. I'd use 1/4" SS button head machine screws. They look pretty good. And you will be able to see them on the aisle wall. I would try to make them line up vertically and horizontally so they create a box or rectangle shape, just for aesthetics.

We discovered a long time ago that if you lower the tongue as far as the front jack will go, you hardly have to lift the generator at all to get it into the basket. 😊 I do like your hydraulic lift table though.

Actually, RE: Champion 2500 Watt Inverter: When the 1.05-gallon tank of gasoline is full, the 79cc Champion engine produces 2500 starting watts and 1850 running watts and will run for up to 11.5 hours at 25% load. When using a 20-pound propane tank, it produces 2500 starting watts and 1665 running watts and will run for up to 34 hours at 25% load. Be aware that all generators will lose 10-15% of their output using propane. This is due to the differences in BTU's between gasoline and propane.

You are on the right track by being proactive. Eventually, those things that are glued to the vertical inside walls are going to fall off, especially the heavy electronics now being used. The way they did theirs is the best way to go. It will require a little swallowing of pride however. Since your unit is still attached, your "fix" should be much more simple. 1 - Remove ONE screw holding the inverter to the PVC backer board. Using that hole as a marker, drill from the inside completely through the fiberglass out into the aisle. 2 - Place your SS bolt into the hole from the outside and put a washer and nylock nut on the inside and tighten it down. 3 - Repeat for the other three screws, one at a time. Yes, this requires drilling a hole through the fiberglass. There goes some of that pride I spoke of. You'll survive, and I promise it won't fall off the wall now. If you wait, it's gonna be a lot harder and the end result will still be drilling those holes. I really don't understand why they don't do it that way at the factory.

The standard air conditioner for all trailers currently being delivered is the Dometic Penguin II 11,000 BTU. Oliver will install the Micro-Air EasyStart™ as an option if requested. The standard water heater is the Suburban propane/electric. The standard furnace is now a Truma unit. The 13,500 BTU Truma Aventa Eco Air Conditioner is an optional upgrade and is only available paired with the optional Truma AquaGo Comfort On Demand Water Heater. Oliver WILL NOT install the Micro-Air EasyStart™ on the Truma A/C units as it will void their warranty. You will need a 3000 watt generator to run this unit. We bought a Yamaha EF3000iSEB 3000 Watt Inverter Generator 16 years to travel with us on the tongue of our 2008 Elite. It migrated to the tongue of our 2014 Elite II and has traveled well over 150K miles. It will run anything we've ever thrown at it. As many have mentioned, it is very heavy. Since it has been sitting, locked in the generator baskets of two different Oliver's, for 99% of the time we've owned it, the weight just has never been an issue to us. The only times it has been removed from the basket has been for oil changes and I have an overhead trolley mounted lift to move the heavy stuff when needed.

Don't leave home with the Ranger towing an LEII. It would be a pretty good tow for an Elite.

The Ram Promaster 3500 Van only has a towing capacity of 6,410 lbs primarily because it has a 4,680-pound payload capacity. This would give it around a 12,000 pound GCVWR.

Much better from a towing capacity standpoint. Sixty four hundred pounds is "just getten' by..."

RVIA will not allow that.

I do love me some stewed beaver nuggets. Pair that with some sweet taters and hit don't get no better.

Thanks for that, I saw it once long ago in the past and could never figure out how to do it again. Yea....

Which will make you

Kevin, if you have the equipment and are so inclined, feel free to video our demo and post it. This is something that everyone will encounter during their tenure as an owner and the procedure is pretty straightforward to observe and do but very hard to comprehend from written instructions. I think you’ve got a great idea.

We are all here for you and your family in times like this so lean on in there. I lost my younger brother over 10 years ago. My mother always said that parents should not outlive their children. Our prayers are for you and yours. Can we look forward to seeing you next month at the Rally in Guntersville?

I agree with you 100% about the little aluminum spacers that came with the Mopeka system. The idea was spot-on but the execution was crap. We chunked them and sprung for a couple of the Mopeka Tank Halo's. They solved the spacing problem perfectly. We do a similar thing with our winterization. Since there are so very few days yearly here in North Mississippi that it might get cold enough to damage something in the trailer, sometime in November I drain the water heater, blow out the water lines and put a small electric space heater inside. I like to keep the temperature inside about 60 degrees or so. By mid January, we will fill it back up with water and leave for the Southwestern US to be gone a couple of months.

I'm sorry you had this trouble, but if I understand your post correctly, you bought a propane tank monitoring system from Oliver when you purchased Hull #1125. Was it the Mopeka system or SOB? We have had a Mopeka system for going on 5 years and have never had a minutes trouble from it. We replace the batteries in the sending units and the inside receiver/display unit about once a year. They have always performed flawlessly and I recommend them without hesitation. We partially do the opposite as you with our tanks. Before a trip we have the tanks filled if needed. We hook up both tanks and turn them on. We then just let the Two-Stage Automatic Changeover Regulator do its thing. If one tank empties, the regulator seamlessly begins to supply gas from the other tank. After 15 years of use this way, I can just about know when a tank is getting low. When the monitor tells me it is empty, we will refill it on the road if I think we will need it before getting home.

You have gauges on your propane tanks????

If your outside faucet is the same one, it will also function in this manner. Mine are the same inside and outside and somewhere along the line, I ended up with a spare hand piece.

1/2" Hexagonal...

A 5/16" bolt has a head that is 1/2". Clamp it up in a pair of vice grips and use the bolt head to tighten the water connection. Personally, I bought the hex drives. I've used them on other peoples trailers.

I bought one from Amazon.

I wanted to let everybody know that Anita has had an accident inside her home. She fell while descending a flight of stairs to her basement and has sustained a hip fracture. She endured a 10 hour procedure to remove hardware placed during a (years ago) surgery after car accident before her hip could be repaired. She states she is currently in a lot of pain. I know she is facing months of rehab and recovery. She is hopeful she will be well enough and her doctors will allow her to come to Guntersville in May. Please keep Anita in your thoughts and prayers as she works her way through this difficult time.

I’ve never known Oliver to purposely select an inferior product in order to save a few dollars.

If your water heater has had water in it all this time, pull the anode and check it out, allow the tank to drain and flush water through your entire system for several, several minutes. Sanitize the water tanks and lines. While doing all this, check for leaks. Check out each system to make sure it works properly: fans, water pump, refrigerator (both 120V and propane, A/C, wheel bearings should be repacked and Dexter EZ-Flex greased, tires inflated properly, furnace, cooktop and batteries fully charged (I assume they have been maintained all this time). Change out batteries in any devices that used them. If the entire weight of the trailer has been on the tires, they will, most likely, have developed a flat spot where they contacted the surface under them. This may or may not come out after you have driven it for a number of miles.