ScubaRx

The following is only for those that have the regular toilet. Although those with "composting" toilets have their own list of issues, this is not on it and will be of little interest to them. There is another scenario where the black water can fill the bathroom floor (and beyond) during the black tank flush and dump. (cue the Twilight Zone theme music) ... Picture this, if you will... You've hooked your black flush hose to the outside port and begun to fill your black tank in preparation for dumping. The black tank dump valve is closed as is the shower drain back-flow preventer valve. The black tank needs to be monitored during this step. I do it by holding the toilet flush valve open with my foot on the flush lever while peering down into the tank with a flashlight. Others may simply watch the readout for the black tank on the SeeLevel Tank Monitoring System. However you want to monitor the filling of the tank is largely irrelevant, but you do need to watch it. Consequences will occur if you do not. Everything is running smoothly until a stranger appears at your door and is proclaiming to everyone within earshot that this is the coolest trailer he's never seen, where is it built?, what does it cost?, what is its weight?, how does it pull?, how do you like it? and on and on. Now you're distracted, and in trying to answer his questions, you forget that the black tank is filling with water. Ten minutes later you discover the bathroom has six inches of NASTY water in the floor, it is all around the base of the toilet and is now spilling over the threshold, out the door and into the main cabin. But, it's not overflowing from the toilet, and you discover that the poop and pee is coming up through the shower drain. How could this happen? The black tank plumping is not connected to anything but the main drain and does not interface with the shower drain or gray tank system in any way so there's no possible way it could be doing this, right? But it is doing this. Nasty, Creepy, Perplexing but entirely possible once you understand how the bathroom is actually plumbed. As the water level in the closed black tank rises, it can not escape into the toilet bowl because you’re not paying attention and the flush valve is closed. Neither can it escape down the drain because the black dump valve is closed. Pressure inside the black tank is beginning to rise also as the air trapped inside is being compressed by the rising water. At this point, I can personally advise you to NEVER depress the flush lever. If you wonder what will happen, go ahead and try it and report back here. Now your black tank is completely full and the water has to go somewhere. The increasing pressure inside the tank will begin to push the water up the vent pipe that terminates through the roof from inside the closet. The same pipe is used to vent both the gray and the black tanks. What most do not realize is that this vent pipe also serves as the drain pipe from the bathroom lavatory into the gray tank. As the water level rises inside the vent pipe, it will eventually reach the connection between the drain and the vent pipes. The black water will now enter the drain pipe and, taking the path of least resistance, will flow down the drain pipe seeking entrance to the gray tank where it is stopped by the closed shower drain back-flow preventer valve. Now its only escape is up through the shower drain and out into the world. Just when you thought you didn't have to worry about anything else.

It would be surprising to me also, if I could duplicate what has been said to be happening. The dual hull design of the Oliver TT is more rigid than any other trailer on the market. Anyone who has seen one that has been rolled can attest to the fact that, after it’s all done, there is no resulting distortion or twisting of the body. Normal use can cause the frame to flex and twist but not the body. The body of your trailer moving independently of the frame would indicate to me that one or more attachment points have loosened. If that be the case, you need to get under your trailer and tighten the nuts.

One potential issue I see here is bringing the batteries back up after a 2 hour, A/C lunch break. You have no solar and lithium’s won’t charge from the vehicle while going down the road. Your post sounds like you do not boondock. Why no solar with such a large lithium bank? Do you have a plan?

Looks like a really nicely built trailer. I have several utility trailers from a 4x6 foot box trailer that I built back in the 1990's to carry camping/SCUBA gear in to a 7x18 foot flatbed. In Gardner, MT at the North Entrance to Yellowstone NP - September, 1997. Getting ready to leave on a rafting trip on the Buffalo NR in Arkansas, April, 2003.

Upon closer examination of your photo, I have circled something that puzzled me. If that is part of the rear jack mounting system, it appears the nut may be loose. If so, you need to check that out and tighten it.

The solid red thing with the "two red buttons" is just a insulated cover. The black unit to its right with one red button is one of the circuit breakers. If you push the red button it will go to the disconnected mode and the flag will pop out. One of the breakers will kill all the 12V power in the coach. Those three yellow things are 30 amp fuse holders, one for each of the jacks. Your front jack may have an additional holder at the jack, meaning that jack has two fuses to check if it quits working.

The breakers you are looking for should be under the aft dinette seat, probably mounted to the inside of the aisle wall.

That is too much to pay for a RV Power Inlet - 30 Amp Twist Lock. Its being made from Stainless Steel that makes it so expensive. I really don't like purchasing from etrailer. If you get a defective part, you have to deal with the actual manufacturer of the part for exchange as they won't allow you to send it back to them. I always buy from Amazon. If there's a problem, they will always allow you to send it back.

I've been banned from shopping at one of out local Walmart's here in town. About 6 months ago I was in Walmart buying a large bag of Purina dog food for my beautiful Doberman, Reacher, which weighed 110 lbs. I was in the check-out line when a woman behind me asked if I had a dog. I wondered what she thought I had. So, because I'm retired and have little to do, on impulse, I told her that no, I didn't have a dog, I was starting the Purina Diet again. I explained to her that it was the Perfect Diet. Dog food is nutritionally complete and contains all the nutrients, protein, vitamins and minerals to adequately sustain a large carnivore for a lifetime. I added that the last time, it had worked really well and that I'd lost 50 pounds. Since I had gained back some weight lately, I had decided to give it another go. I told her the way that it works is, to load your jacket pockets with Purina Nuggets and simply eat one or two every time you feel hungry. Further, I told her that I knew I probably shouldn't do this, because the last time, I ended up in the hospital. I explained that I had awakened in the intensive care unit with tubes coming out of most of my orifices and IV's in both arms. (I need to mention here that practically everyone in the checkout line was now enthralled with my story.) Horrified, she asked if I had ended up in intensive care, because the dog food had poisoned me. I told her no, I had stopped to pee on a Fire Hydrant and a car hit me.

SR5 is a trim level and TRD is an upgraded suspension package.

Oh, I do all that the same way you're describing; apps in groups, groups placed where they are easily found. It's still easier for me to glance at a dedicated read-out mounted in the trailer than to jump through all those hoops.

Yeah, that sounded like a good idea when I installed my EZ Flex system back in 2015 and I did it because all the YouTube videos suggested it. And it would have been a good idea if there was about 18 inches of clearance under the trailer. A year or so later, I swapped them to the outside and replaced all the bronze bushings, wet bolts with added 45 degree angle zerks. Now I can get to all the zerks from the outside without jacking up the trailer or removing any wheels. I can grease them all in about 5 minutes. Before it was a struggle to slither around under the trailer on my back and usually took an hour or so and a ruined T-shirt.

😁 That might help, but I think that acquiring Scotopic vision through the development of a human tapetum lucidum would probably be of greater benefit. 😁

I routinely drive with the fresh tank drain open if I want the tank empty at my next stop. It won't cause any problems.

Only if you don't want it to freeze and possibly burst.

How can you find anything inside them after dark?

Being a 2022 model, a quick glance at their Victron monitor would give them a ton of real time information. I’m not a fan of Bluetooth Apps to get info about my system’s status. Too much trouble to find your phone, find the app, get it up and running……

I do, all the time. In fact, I spent about an hour under there today inspecting my springs, hydraulic brake lines and all the other various connectors.

As you know, this generator will run on either gasoline or propane. It is rated at 4500 Watts peak and 4050 Watts continuous running on gasoline and 3700 Watts Peak and 3330 Watts continuous running on propane. The difference is due to the BTU's of gasoline vs propane. There is about a 20% decrease in efficiency using propane. But, you have chosen a great generator and I think going to a Honda 3200 would be a step backward. That 3200 watt rating is contingent on using gasoline. You're much better off with this one as it will easily run your AC or charge your batteries, maybe at the same time plus electric and remote start. What could be better? Good choice.

I’ll let Oliver management know that you disagree with their decision.

Through a family member, I’ve been well acquainted with all things Airstream for over 35 years. During his lifetime he owned dozens of their trailers in all sizes from the tiny Bambi to a giant three axle unit that had been custom built for one of the top Airstream Executives. I don’t personally know if Airstream quality has suffered suffered since Thor Industries, Inc. came along. Thor was founded on August 29, 1980, when Wade Thompson and Peter Busch Orthwein acquired Airstream. I do know that Airstream had not fared well during the economic downturn of the late 1970s, losing $12 million the year before it was acquired. So, if Airstream quality has slipped, it’s had over four decades to do it.

Mike, every time I've seen this problem, it's been due to the white (ground) wire coming into the trailer from the 7-pin wiring bundle not being securely connected to the grounding buss bar located under the aft dinette seat. All the rest of the wiring on that bar is yellow. All this was going on between the time our trailer was built and about Hull #200. The factory actually sent out a bulletin about this and a standing order to check for this problem on every trailer that passed thru the shop for any reason. Your trailer was probably checked at some time in the past and it either passed inspection or was fixed. Some of those back roads Carol makes you drive on could very easily have loosened that wire. Now would be a good time to check tightness on all the wires attached to that bar.

Maybe in Australia but not in the United States. The final say is that sticker affixed to the driver’s side door post. If you know of a way to have the manufacturer reissue that sticker with increased weight capacities based on ANYTHING that you have personally added to the vehicle post delivery, I’m sure there are lots of folks here that would be interested in you explaining how it’s done.

You sound as if you think Oliver Travel Trailers, as you know them, is going away. I don’t think anything is going to change. They are just trying to get more exposure to their products.

I’m throwing this in just to make sure everyone understands that there is NOTHING you can add to a vehicle that will increase its cargo or towing capacity. Not air bags, springs or anything else.