Townesw

Read my posts in this thread for installation of a replacement without drilling holes. The LP/CO detector shown in the thread is what the service department was recommending at the time.

I realize this post has nothing to do with the direction this thread has taken, but I think this part is what was originally used for the bathroom sink drain. I submitted a service request asking for the correct part but the factory was unable to provide that information. You won’t find this in most hardware stores. https://www.lasallebristol.com/product/metal-c-o-plug-without-overflow/

@jd1923 That same regulator package, F3004 from RV Water Filter Store, was $138, shipped, in July 2019. I don’t know where it was made. Google “Camco water pressure regulator vs. diaphragm water pressure regulator” and read some of the discussions that pop up. This is one that I found: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/water-pressure-regulators-255560.html We primarily use full hookups, so this isn’t going to help if you’re using the pump.

@Geronimo JohnThat water is not pumped water. Those videos are with trailer hooked to city water through a hose bib on the house. One video with water flowing through a brass Camco “pressure regulator”, which I call a flow restrictior, and the other video with water flowing through a Watts pressure regulator.

Are they still using ASI 335? This stuff works well for removing old caulk

@Lisa Rae @jd1923 I have hull 313. I have 2 check valves under the basement floor just under the door. This is a picture that I made in September 2019 of mine when a few Olivers were having problems with split check valves. I’ve not found any of the brass Camco “pressure regulators” down there. The plumbing diagram shows the check valves but doesn’t show any “pressure regulators”. Oliver provided a brass Camco “pressure regulator” (or flow restrictor) for use externally to limit the incoming water pressure and I used it when our trailer was new. We noticed that when we turned on any water that the flow would be strong and then it would quickly slow. I did some reading on the internet that lead me to replace the “pressure regulator” with a diaphragm type pressure regulator. Video from July 2019, flow with Camco pressure regulator in place at the city water faucet (hose bib). IMG_4032.mov Video from July 2019, Watts diaphragm type pressure regulator in place at the city water faucet (hose bib). IMG_4034.mov I am the kind of person that likes to know how things work and I have thought about cutting the flow restrictor (Camco “pressure regulator”) open to see how it works but, it is my backup in case my Watts regulator fails. (Boy Scout motto: Be Prepared). All of my information and suggestions come with the added warning that what worked in my case may not work for you.

I got better flow everywhere in the Oliver when I switched from this to this https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/products/263a-lf-regulator-stainless?_pos=1&_sid=7382cb9a5&_ss=r

Thanks @mossemi I did see that thread but I’m on my second caddy from the factory and both appear to have been hand trimmed when manufactured. The edge that meets the front of the vanity is so wavy that I doubt that I could get a seal on the edge to seal well against the vanity. What did you use to enlarge the hole for the hatch?

@rich.dev is this the bathroom heat duct? Is the factory using this now or is this something that you have used to replace what the factory used?

There is another thread “Upgraded shower and bathroom access hatch” but I am starting this thread to address the access hatch only. The other thread primarily addresses the shower valve modifications and some questions about the marine hatch modification are going unanswered. Moderators, remove or add to this thread if you need to or direct me to another thread with more information about this modification. @mossemi @MAX Burner @NCeagle @Going and others that have made the modification: 1. has anyone installed the hatch opening to the right? 2. I see that Mike relocated his water pump switch and light to the upper left front on the vanity. What have others done? 3. Has anyone found a lighted switch to use for the water pump switch? 4. Did you bed the frame with butyl? 5. Can the door be easily removed from the frame? 6. Did anyone use something other than the 23.9x13.9 SEAFLO marine hatch? 7. Mike mentions using a hole saw in reverse to cut the radiused corners (@mossemiis this correct ?) What did you use to cut the straight lines?

I forgot to mention that while you have the caddy off take a few seconds and straighten out your faucet head hose.

@MAX Burner can that door be removed from the frame?

If you see water dripping from this bolt under the front center of your trailer look for a leak under the bathroom sink In my case it was a split in the sink tailpiece. The split was on the side not visible so I didn’t find it until I removed the tailpiece. I couldn’t find this style of tailpiece at any of my local hardware places including Lowe’s because most tailpieces are made for sinks with built in overflows. I finally found a tailpiece that would work at a place that had an old supply of mobile home parts. It was plastic instead of metal but it worked great. I will order another tailpiece, either this one or a metal one, to put in my parts box. Installed pictures. The stopper is better than the rubber plug used before I cannot understand why the factory puts that fixed caddy under the bathroom sink. Sure, it’s no problem to remove and replace, but the fiberglass won’t stand the removal and reinsertion of the screws many more times. And when you remove, replace, and recaulk the caddy you have to wait until the caulk cures enough before you can use the shower. I will be installing a marine deck hatch in its place.

@mossemi OR anyone else that has done this modification, do you have the name and model number of the hatch that you used?

@rideadeuce Is the “5” in 5000 a raised or a stamped number?

@rideadeuce Hull 313 has the gusset

I stand outside beside the trailer while filling the black tank through the flush valve. You can hear the water spraying inside the black tank. When I hear the water level in the black tank rise above the flush valve I leave the water running and just pull the black tank dump valve. I do this 2,3,4 times or as many times as it takes until I see clear water and no floaters in a clear fitting at the terminal end of the sewer hose. Only then do I turn off and disconnect the flush hose. Never had a problem doing it this way. Sometimes I delay pulling the dump valve a little just to make my wife hollar at me “Ok OK OK DUMP DUMP DUMP!!”

Read my posts in this thread for a no-drill install of a new CO/Propane detector.

I think they are more of a gimmick than actually a device to chock the trailer. Nothing chocks better than a big chunk of wood or rubber. I don’t think they do much to stabilize the trailer, they are just another step in setting up and taking down, and they are just something else in the way. The simpler you make the process the better.

You might consider removing the decorative hub caps altogether. This will allow you to check wheel hub temp using a non contact IR thermometer or by hand. You can also watch for a loose bearing cap. You can also adjust wheel bearing play without having to remove the tire and wheel assembly. I don’t use the x-chocks anymore either.

@NandNPNW Read this

I have a lot of stuff in my shop. I’m getting rid of a lot of it but I still have to put our Oliver in an exact place to maximize space and be able to move stuff around it. A few years ago I made marks on a line parallel to the side wall with a paint pen then placed soccer cones on the marks to guide me while backing, keeping the tires close to the line of cones. After the trailer is in place I store the cones an a shelf by the door. Saves a bunch of time when storing the trailer.

I use these to get hair out of traps. https://drainweasel.com/ I throw them away rather than clean them. I keep a 3-pack in the Oliver and at home. The kids even got them in their stockings one Christmas🎅🏻 Like the old saying goes “Unclog a man’s drain and you help them that day. Teach a man to unclog his own drain and you help them for a lifetime.”

I’m not saying my hull moves on the frame, I’m saying my hull flexes. My bolts are tight. If I were to stand beside your trailer or any other Oliver I’m going to bet all of the hulls flex just like hulls 92 and 313. My point is you can make the frame as immovable as possible and you’re still going to have movement in the cabin due to flexing of the hull. I’m done.

I asked this as a rhetorical question. I’m not concerned about the movement because I think all hulls have it. I’m surprised that apparently no one else has seen it or has been out to see if their trailer has the movement since I posted my video. One can use all kinds of jacks, chocks, braces, voodoo, magic, etc. but you aren’t going to get the “Ollie Wobble” out of your Ollie. Hence my comment “You’re chasing your tail trying to make it “non wobbly”.