Townesw

I put a clear tinted window from Lippert in our Oliver entry door made by Lippert. I called Lippert and talked to a real person (Sandra Berg) and told her what I wanted to do. She asked for some numbers off of the door to make sure I ordered the correct parts. Be sure to order the “snap in window release clips”. They are supposed to expand the tabs that secure the inside frame to the outside frame but I still had to break several tabs to get them to release, so you’ll also need a new inside and outside frame. You will want to use new frames anyway so that you have good seals Parts I ended up using for hull 313 706073 GLASS; DARK TINT - G20; 13.25 X 22.24 TEMPERED 429436 SNAP-IN WINDOW CLIPS; 16 PCS KIT 716156 WINDOW FRAME; LOW PROFILE W /SEAL; 15 X 24 OUTER - WHT 716157 WINDOW FRAME; LOW PROFILE; 15 X 24 INNER - WHT

Read this I thought I had a thread on the forum where I talked about my “fresh water tank overflow tube clamp being loose” but I can’t find it. Anyway, if your fresh tank is full and your trailer is slightly nose down and the overflow tube clamp is loose you might be getting water out of that drain.

Those screws have a shoulder on them. The shoulder should pass through the elongated hole in the shroud and be tightened down against the steel base, leaving the head of the screw snug but not tight against the shroud to allow the shroud to expand and contract with heating and cooling. You might find that the shoulder was tightened down against the shroud, or the screw was loose allowing too much movement of the shroud. We’ve been in some very strong wind and never had that happen. I agree with @Cameron I’d fix that also.

Be sure to set the parking brake while holding the brake pedal in the TV. Just putting the transmission in P doesn’t keep the TV from rolling a little until the parking pawl in the transmission catches. Get out and kick the ball mount. If it doesn’t rattle, let the TV roll up or back then kick the ball mount again. The coupler will release if the ball is loose in the socket.

Chock the wheels, uncouple hitch, then level. Don’t try to level while still on the ball. Leveling the trailer while still on the ball will cause the earth to spin backwards. Nevermind. It just occurred to me that you’re using those curved wedges.

@Margaret At the time your Oliver was built your hull number will be the last 3 digits of your VIN number. Later production Olivers have a hull number not indicated in the VIN. The hull number indicates where in production history your Oliver was built. I have hull 313 so it was the 313th Oliver built. When you ask questions about your Oliver and readers know your hull number it gives us some idea of what might be going on with your Oliver. Some problems are known to be associated with a particular range of hull numbers. Owners that have Olivers built around the time yours was built may be able to provide help because they have already experienced the problem you are having. By listing your hull number in your signature line readers have some idea as to how to better respond to your questions. Look for VIN sticker on left front corner Or on a sticker near the hinges on the door Your Oliver might have a hull number plaque near the door Some Olivers have the hull number on the top rear

@Margaret Do you have hull number 179?

@Margaret I have a newer thermostat so I can’t be any help with yours. Looks like there is a Dometic 3314080 and a 3314082. Do you have a manual for the thermostat? This might be it https://www.dometic.com/externalassets/thermostat-control-box-ccc2_64755.pdf Here is a users guide for a similar thermostat https://www.intechtrailers.com/images/info/PDF/Dometic/thermostat-guide.PDF

@Alberta and Randy You have an earlier hull number. It looks like your pipe extends out further. I have hull 313 and the pipe does not extend that far out which allows me to leave the hose connected when the bumper is closed. At some point in production they must have shortened the length of the pipe inside the rear bumper area.

Stick your fingers in the opening on the front and gently press down on the return air filter/grill then remove the two and separate them. Clean the filter and grill. Leave them off if the filter is completely plugged and see if your air is cooler. You will need to get an RV Tech to remove the a/c shroud on top and check for dirty coils.

Is the return air filter clean? It is located under the grill shown in the photos below. Be careful removing the grill. It’s easy to break the tabs off and it’s not available as a separate part. Do you feel air coming out of all four openings on the sides and the sliding grate on the bottom? Your trailer is a 2017 so it has been in storage. Has anyone checked to see if the coils under the shroud on top are clean? (Disregard arrows and text, I used these photos before to explain something else.) What is the voltage shown on your Progressive Industries display?

I believe this is the auxiliary drain kit that includes the small pans, one of which is shown in the picture in my previous post. The tee shown in your second picture is the tee in the picture below. The tube that eventually exits at the rear street side corner is attached to this tee. https://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-auxiliary-drain-pan-kit.html

On hull 313 the tubes run to these white condensate catch pans on each side of the A/C

These will dampen most of the movement. Just snug them up against the frame. Don’t support the weight of the trailer with them. I used to use them until we got accustomed to the wobble. It’s an Oliver thing. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Olympian-Aluminum-Stabilize-Position/dp/B000760FWU

Look for 2 sheet metal and 8 wood screws. This is for a Dometic 3314850.000 Air Distribution Box. Yours might be different. https://epi.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-penguin-ii-13-5k_9105304179_71275.pdf

Auto-Motion Shade Inc. 400 Bentley St. Markham, Ontario L3R 8H6 - Canada Tel. (905) 470-6198 (Ext. 0022) Fax (905) 479-2136 www.automotionshade.com At one time there was a program to get them replaced if they had “slits” in them. I received a complete set of replacements and they were just as bad as the original set.

I keep (2) sections of 10 foot sewer hose (one attached to the Oliver), the 90deg adapter, the clear extension, the rubber seal, the hard plastic threaded adapter and an assortment of caps in the bumper all of the time. These components will allow me to make proper sewer connections at 95% of our setups. If we are staying somewhere without sewer hookup, I add a Barker wheeled tote (modified with foam filled tires in place of pneumatic), the short hose that came with it, and a special adapter to allow sewer hose connection to the tote (note the bayonet attachment on both ends). https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Degree-Sewer-Adapter-Portable/dp/B00OJHOL1O/ref=asc_df_B00OJHOL1O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312202698398&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9090870160881797098&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013575&hvtargid=pla-451786929497&psc=1

The threads on the sewer connection are often buggered so I use this to make a somewhat sealed connection https://www.campingworld.com/3-in-1-flexible-sewer-hose-adapter-112501.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign={Campaign}&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs5iF_unw-AIVKhbUAR1aBACrEAQYByABEgIWuvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I have found that many times the sewer connection is too low to facilitate attachment so I use this short extension often https://www.campingworld.com/camco-4-in-1-sewer-extension-104645.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign={Campaign}&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5uHe9ujw-AIV4RXUAR3-2gH7EAQYGyABEgKM-_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

@John E Daviesthank you Sir. That’s an interesting website.

I too have been trying to come up with a way to carry the 8 foot sticks since I put the bed cap on our current truck. I thought about sticking an 8 ft piece of electrical conduit inside the frame rail, but I don’t want that rattling around. I also thought about fixing some way to carry them under the camper, secured to the frame. But I just now remembered the sectional aluminum tent poles that we used when I was a Boy Scout. Those things were extremely durable. There is no telling how many sword fights we had with those pole sections. You could stick the end of a section down in mud then sling that section and it would send a deadly mud slug at an a adversary. We even used them as javelins and spears. I’m going to see if I can locate a source for sectional aluminum tent poles 8 feet long and order a couple to use the next time I need to dump uphill.

I didn’t want to drill any holes so I used an 1/8 inch chainsaw file to make a small notch on each side of the existing hole I enlarged the existing holes on the large bezel provided in the box and used the small bezel provided as a backing plate for 2 (#6 I think) flat head SS screws inserted into the 2 enlarged holes and through the notches and used 22-18 ga butt splices to attach the wires since the old monitor had 18 ga wires and the new one has 22 ga wires stuff you’ll need -(2) 18-22 ga butt splices -(1) 1/8 inch chainsaw file -(2) #6 x 5/8 inch SS flathead screws

Campsite sewer connections are placed for RVs with mid vehicle dump valves. Olivers have the dump valves in the bumper. I used this setup at a campground on the Keweenaw Peninsula so that I could dump up hill And at another campsite where the sewer connection was too high to allow proper flow

Valterra has a twist on waste valve that you can attach to the end of the pipe in the bumper to provide a “last line of defense”. I carry one in case I have a valve failure upstream, but you could use it all the time. https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-Twist-On-Waste-Valve/dp/B000BGHYJS/ref=asc_df_B000BGHYJS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312128189269&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18049546831347238612&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013575&hvtargid=pla-448831038926&psc=1

In the owner’s manual for a 2018 Elite, the schematic for the monitors shows a 1 amp fuse for the LPCO detector.