Townesw

What about this https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-F02-3106BK-Black-Coupler-Handle/dp/B0006MRR2Q

If you’re referring to the LP/ CO detector under the dinette there is a 1 amp fuse located under the street side bunk. At least there is in mine. Pull that fuse and put it where you can find it later.

Don’t try it without one of these. Read my posts in this thread

When you unplugged from the 30 and plugged in to the 50 on the pedestal did you ever hear the transfer switch “clunk”?

Fulgham KY, a few days ago. But the pump don’t work cause the vandals took the handle

What is the brand and model of your propane/CO detector?

Post a picture of the LP/CO detector in your Oliver please.

No, it was a dark truck, Ford maybe, with matching bed cap, I think. Red and blue swooshes. No hull number on the stern. I wished they all had the hull number on them.

About noon. North bound on Highway 51.

Lowes has the blue clip @Imeldadid you figure out how to use your faucet as a sprayer?

@ImeldaYour profile shows you have a 2020 OEII. Are you sure that your faucet doesn’t already have a sprayer? Grab the end of the faucet head and pull it down. It is held in place with a magnet. The sprayer hose is inside the faucet neck.

We recently met a very nice couple with an Oliver at a campground. I was walking around their Oliver and we were talking about our trailers when I noticed water trickling down the curb side rear stabilizer. I asked if I could look under the curb side bunk and after looking for several minutes I could not find the source of the leak, but from where I was seeing the water running from underneath the insulation I suggested that he pull the drawers and take a look under the kitchen sink. We exchanged phone numbers and I left. With in just a few minutes of leaving their Oliver I received a text saying that he had done as I suggested and he had found his p-trap coupling loose and water from the drain dripping on top of the fender well under the kitchen sink. This leak made its way between the insulation and inside of the bottom hull to the opening where the rear stabilizer goes through the bottom hull.

@ImeldaPress these latches under the drawer and lift up Very likely this drain coupling has come apart. Or the blue clip that holds the sprayer hose to the faucet tube is missing and the hose has slipped off of the tube You may have to remove this plywood panel to make the repair. While you are in there make sure the refrigerator plug is plugged in well

I remember thinking that the rough streets were going to rattle my trailer apart.

Liberty Harbor is really just a tight fitting parking lot with water and electric, no sewer. There is a dump station. When we were there it was pretty rough. We walked to a subway station and then rode over to Manhattan. I’m glad we visited NYC in late September, 2019 because I don’t think we’ll ever go back. Smelled like urine. People sleeping on the streets and eating out of overflowing trash cans. My one and only trip to NYC. On a positive note we saw a play on Broadway about a green witch, saw Billy Joel at MSG, had a very interesting tour guide, and ate some good food. We did enjoy our trip to North and West New York State though. You can see the Statue of Liberty from Liberty Harbor RV Park.

@Dale C Which thread and which posts are you referring to?

Hook up to a loaded trailer weighing about 5400 lbs and pull it around and see what you think. That should give you some idea. What I found is that numbers on paper or computer screen don’t take into account real life driving scenarios.

Agree with Bill and Mike regarding Fall Hollow.

If you aren’t broken down on the side of the road somewhere and have a little while to work on it I would try one of these. I also applied some dry silicone lube to the threaded stud and the knob goes on and off much easier.

I used Columbus McKinnon 3/8” G70 clevis slip hooks (WLL 6600 lbs) because they fit the holes in the hitch and Columbus McKinnon 3/8” G70 transport chain (WLL 6600 lbs) because it fit the hooks. I had some stainless steel spacers turned to 1.360” diameter, one at 1.740” long, two at 0.55” long, and two at 0.30” long. A hole bored through the spacers fits a 1/2 bolt. The 1.740” spacer just slips inside the tongue when the hitch bolts are loosened. The bolt is a 1/2 inch grade 8 because I didn’t want to enlarge the holes in the tongue. The unthreaded portion of the bolt extends almost to the outside edge of the last SS spacer. The middle photo shows the bolt before I shortened it and a regular nut for fitting purposes. I cut the excess threads off, secured it with a new Nylock nut and covered it with a new Radolid VCI nut cap.

If you are determined to use the Anderson you can use a sleeve (it’s there, you can’t see it) on the shank and a Hitch Vise to eliminate the rattle. I used this set up (without the chains and plate) on my 3/4 ton until I had a custom ball mount made. I still use the Hitch Vise with my 2.5 inch ball mount. It’s machined from a solid piece of 1018 CR steel square stock. The setback on it is 1 inch shorter than the Anderson mount, and I may reduce it more. It has a 5/8 inch drop as shown and a 7/8 inch drop if flipped. With truck and trailer loaded the trailer rides slightly nose down.

@SeaDawgTell me about this butyl tape that you used to bed the fan.

Thanks for your interest. I don’t have any extras right now. I have looked into having some laser cut and if there was enough interest I would make up several sets. It just takes too long to make these by hand and sell them at a reasonable price.

RVUpgrades has one more of the MaxxFan Domes without the LED in stock right now. I have one on order. https://www.rvupgradestore.com/MaxxAir-00-03812W-MaxxFan-Dome-Roof-Vent-p/14-9983.htm