Townesw

I got better flow everywhere in the Oliver when I switched from this to this https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/products/263a-lf-regulator-stainless?_pos=1&_sid=7382cb9a5&_ss=r

Thanks @mossemi I did see that thread but I’m on my second caddy from the factory and both appear to have been hand trimmed when manufactured. The edge that meets the front of the vanity is so wavy that I doubt that I could get a seal on the edge to seal well against the vanity. What did you use to enlarge the hole for the hatch?

@rich.dev is this the bathroom heat duct? Is the factory using this now or is this something that you have used to replace what the factory used?

There is another thread “Upgraded shower and bathroom access hatch” but I am starting this thread to address the access hatch only. The other thread primarily addresses the shower valve modifications and some questions about the marine hatch modification are going unanswered. Moderators, remove or add to this thread if you need to or direct me to another thread with more information about this modification. @mossemi @MAX Burner @NCeagle @Going and others that have made the modification: 1. has anyone installed the hatch opening to the right? 2. I see that Mike relocated his water pump switch and light to the upper left front on the vanity. What have others done? 3. Has anyone found a lighted switch to use for the water pump switch? 4. Did you bed the frame with butyl? 5. Can the door be easily removed from the frame? 6. Did anyone use something other than the 23.9x13.9 SEAFLO marine hatch? 7. Mike mentions using a hole saw in reverse to cut the radiused corners (@mossemiis this correct ?) What did you use to cut the straight lines?

I forgot to mention that while you have the caddy off take a few seconds and straighten out your faucet head hose.

@MAX Burner can that door be removed from the frame?

If you see water dripping from this bolt under the front center of your trailer look for a leak under the bathroom sink In my case it was a split in the sink tailpiece. The split was on the side not visible so I didn’t find it until I removed the tailpiece. I couldn’t find this style of tailpiece at any of my local hardware places including Lowe’s because most tailpieces are made for sinks with built in overflows. I finally found a tailpiece that would work at a place that had an old supply of mobile home parts. It was plastic instead of metal but it worked great. I will order another tailpiece, either this one or a metal one, to put in my parts box. Installed pictures. The stopper is better than the rubber plug used before I cannot understand why the factory puts that fixed caddy under the bathroom sink. Sure, it’s no problem to remove and replace, but the fiberglass won’t stand the removal and reinsertion of the screws many more times. And when you remove, replace, and recaulk the caddy you have to wait until the caulk cures enough before you can use the shower. I will be installing a marine deck hatch in its place.

@mossemi OR anyone else that has done this modification, do you have the name and model number of the hatch that you used?

@rideadeuce Is the “5” in 5000 a raised or a stamped number?

@rideadeuce Hull 313 has the gusset

I stand outside beside the trailer while filling the black tank through the flush valve. You can hear the water spraying inside the black tank. When I hear the water level in the black tank rise above the flush valve I leave the water running and just pull the black tank dump valve. I do this 2,3,4 times or as many times as it takes until I see clear water and no floaters in a clear fitting at the terminal end of the sewer hose. Only then do I turn off and disconnect the flush hose. Never had a problem doing it this way. Sometimes I delay pulling the dump valve a little just to make my wife hollar at me “Ok OK OK DUMP DUMP DUMP!!”

Read my posts in this thread for a no-drill install of a new CO/Propane detector.

I think they are more of a gimmick than actually a device to chock the trailer. Nothing chocks better than a big chunk of wood or rubber. I don’t think they do much to stabilize the trailer, they are just another step in setting up and taking down, and they are just something else in the way. The simpler you make the process the better.

You might consider removing the decorative hub caps altogether. This will allow you to check wheel hub temp using a non contact IR thermometer or by hand. You can also watch for a loose bearing cap. You can also adjust wheel bearing play without having to remove the tire and wheel assembly. I don’t use the x-chocks anymore either.

@NandNPNW Read this

I have a lot of stuff in my shop. I’m getting rid of a lot of it but I still have to put our Oliver in an exact place to maximize space and be able to move stuff around it. A few years ago I made marks on a line parallel to the side wall with a paint pen then placed soccer cones on the marks to guide me while backing, keeping the tires close to the line of cones. After the trailer is in place I store the cones an a shelf by the door. Saves a bunch of time when storing the trailer.

I use these to get hair out of traps. https://drainweasel.com/ I throw them away rather than clean them. I keep a 3-pack in the Oliver and at home. The kids even got them in their stockings one Christmas🎅🏻 Like the old saying goes “Unclog a man’s drain and you help them that day. Teach a man to unclog his own drain and you help them for a lifetime.”

I’m not saying my hull moves on the frame, I’m saying my hull flexes. My bolts are tight. If I were to stand beside your trailer or any other Oliver I’m going to bet all of the hulls flex just like hulls 92 and 313. My point is you can make the frame as immovable as possible and you’re still going to have movement in the cabin due to flexing of the hull. I’m done.

I asked this as a rhetorical question. I’m not concerned about the movement because I think all hulls have it. I’m surprised that apparently no one else has seen it or has been out to see if their trailer has the movement since I posted my video. One can use all kinds of jacks, chocks, braces, voodoo, magic, etc. but you aren’t going to get the “Ollie Wobble” out of your Ollie. Hence my comment “You’re chasing your tail trying to make it “non wobbly”.

Has anyone else looked at their Oliver and seen this movement? Surely hulls 92 and 313 aren’t the only ones that exhibit this condition?

Pictures under the bathroom sink. When water in black tank can’t go out the dump valve it fills the black tank then goes up the black tank vent and down the sink drain to the grey tank if the back flow valve is open View looking down at top corner of black tank and sink drain going under shower View looking at plumbing under vanity adjacent to inside of front wall Path black water takes if black dump valve is closed and water is still filling black tank When water from black tank fills the grey tank it comes up through shower drain. If back flow valve is closed it doesn’t fill grey tank but comes up through shower drain anyway. Either way nasty stuff.

@ScubaRx, et alia: Watch video. Disregard cicadas and dog panting. Note movement of body relative to frame. It is not a “distance from wheel skirt to lens vs. frame to lens” optical illusion. Check your Oliver and tell me what you see. I’ve seen it on John Roemer’s hull 92 and my hull 313. I bet they all do it. You’re chasing your tail trying to make it “non wobbly”. IMG_2653.mov

In summary, the fiberglass body is not a rigid structure and the attachment of the body to the frame is not a rigid connection. I struck up a conversation with John Roemer, aka Raspy on this forum, at the 2019 Rally regarding the degree of movement felt inside the Oliver. We were sitting beside his Oliver and he was showing me the modified jack stand that he used in an attempt to reduce wobble by reducing the extension of the rear jacks when his wife, a very petite lady, entered their Oliver. While watching the frame area and the right rear jack atop the modified jack stand we noted how much the fiberglass body moved. We asked her to exit and re-enter and to move around inside the cabin and noted that even though the frame was stationary there was considerable movement in the body. I have used x-chocks between the tires and jack stands under the front corners and even though I can reduce the wobble I cannot eliminate it due to the inherent movement of the non-rigid fiberglass structure and its method of attachment to the aluminum frame. We have become accustomed to the movement and now set up with as little extra gear as possible.

Thanks. I wanted to make it simple.

Chains. And custom ball mount. And anti-rattle Hitch Vise