Townesw

@SeaDawg does the MaxxFan Dome stay closed while underway? This is how we keep the Ventline closed

@SeaDawg how has your MaxxFan Dome held up? Has it remained as quiet as is was when new? I’m sitting here listening to my Ventline rattle and replacing it has been on my list since this thread was started.

I posted this back in 2018 but was reminded of this again this morning. While disconnecting my hose I noticed my city water female hose connection fitting was loose. The picture below shows the fitting after I removed the strainer/ washer. You need to carry a 1/2 inch hex key (Allen wrench) or you’ll have to use a bolt with a head that fits a 1/2 inch wrench. Just snug this fitting up after removing the strainer/washer. Be sure to replace the strainer/washer after tightening the fitting. Here is the post that I made about this back in 2018. Just disregard the threadjacking in the middle of the original thread.

@ScubaRx I can send you corsage pins. Probably a couple thousand dollars worth. But that might only be 4.

Yes but I had the corsage pins. And if I really knew the cost of the corsages and the event that was involved they probably cost me more than Velcro. But I do like Velcro. I love the sound of Velcro. Makes me want to drink Tang.

I like to use an extra long shoe horn to slip my shoes on. I keeps me from having to bend over and possibly faint. I used 2 corsage pins stuck in the noggin bumper above the door to hold my shoe horn. Priceless.

This folding step

I’ve noticed that the body does flex. Sometime when you think you are set up firmly watch the body in the area around the rear wheel well and the adjacent rear stabilizer and have someone move around inside the trailer. You’ll notice that the body moves more than the frame.

I use these if we’re going to be set up for more than a few days. Just snugged up so as to reduce movement not to support the weight of the trailer.

Thanks @SeaDawg . So easy a caveman can do it!

How do you make someone’s user name a link to them? For example if you post a picture of an Oliver on the road and want to notify that person that you included them in a post. This is bound to get me another badge of some kind 😜

Ran into @ScottyGS Hull 145 in Bowman ND yesterday.

We are not staying there. Just spotted an Oliver parked there and wondered if it was anybody on this forum.

Oliver spotted 7/4/2021

Good catch Overland. I looked at pictures of products displaying that logo and they all have the wonky star arrangement. I wonder if that was done to satisfy some legal requirement.

Are new Oliver’s being delivered with this sticker on them? If so how big is it? I’d rather have one of these badges on my Oliver than the ones I’m “earning” on this forum.

When unhitching, chock the trailer tires, shift truck to neutral, release the brake while in neutral, press and hold the brake, shift to park, set parking brake while still pressing the brake pedal, then try raising the tongue off the ball. Are you putting grease on the ball?

BADGES! We don’t need no stinking BADGES! What we need is an easy-to-use search function!

I’ve removed a lot of tar with WD40 sprayed on a rag.

This is an accurate statement and one that most people don’t understand. Also, people think that they can load up to the max payload capacity and drive away fat and happy but what they don’t consider is the ride and handling of that vehicle when loaded to the max. This is a post that I made in a thread about tow vehicles: Listen to what these folks are telling you about the 3/4 ton pickups. I started towing our Elite 2 with a 1/2 ton Chevrolet gas burner using the Andersen. It was okay but I was only 20 pounds under my max GVWR and a 400 mile day on the road would wear us out. You can make all the weights work out on paper but you can’t get a feeling for how that loaded vehicle is going to ride or perform under the conditions you will experience on the road. I traded up to a 3/4 ton Chevrolet 2500HD with a Duramax Diesel. No worries about exceeding the GVWR and it it pulls and stops the Elite 2 great. Very comfortable ride. My wife enjoys driving it. No need for the Andersen. Uphill, downhill, dry or wet, hot or cold, accelerating onto the Interstate, rough roads, dips or humps at bridges, strong cross or headwinds in wide open areas, pressure waves created by passing semis, avoiding animals in the road, whatever, much better experience. And after a 400 mile day I don’t feel like crap while I’m setting up for the night. But on second thought, go ahead and start out with a 1/2 ton. That way when you do trade up it will make you appreciate the 3/4 ton that much more.

I removed my wheel centers. Makes it easier to check hub temperatures, torque wheel nuts without a long extension or adjust a spindle nut without removing the tire/wheel assembly after bearing service.

I’ve noticed something about my steps that I meant to work on but forgot about as we used our Oliver more. Use your finger to feel the top and bottom sides of the angled slot cut in the aluminum side plates. I found that one side of the slot was smooth and the other was rough. I think this was caused by the end mill making a “climb cut” on one side and a “conventional cut” on the other side of the slot. I intended to use a file and maybe emery cloth to smooth the rough side, then use a dry type lubricant on both sides of the slot. You might try this sometime to see if it helps. I also found that using both hands makes raising and lowering the steps easier.

Read my posts in this thread Pay particular attention to the picture of the twisted hose. You may be able to untwist it without removing the front panel.

OP said water was backing up in the kitchen sink.