Townesw

These will dampen most of the movement. Just snug them up against the frame. Don’t support the weight of the trailer with them. I used to use them until we got accustomed to the wobble. It’s an Oliver thing. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Olympian-Aluminum-Stabilize-Position/dp/B000760FWU

Look for 2 sheet metal and 8 wood screws. This is for a Dometic 3314850.000 Air Distribution Box. Yours might be different. https://epi.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-penguin-ii-13-5k_9105304179_71275.pdf

Auto-Motion Shade Inc. 400 Bentley St. Markham, Ontario L3R 8H6 - Canada Tel. (905) 470-6198 (Ext. 0022) Fax (905) 479-2136 www.automotionshade.com At one time there was a program to get them replaced if they had “slits” in them. I received a complete set of replacements and they were just as bad as the original set.

I keep (2) sections of 10 foot sewer hose (one attached to the Oliver), the 90deg adapter, the clear extension, the rubber seal, the hard plastic threaded adapter and an assortment of caps in the bumper all of the time. These components will allow me to make proper sewer connections at 95% of our setups. If we are staying somewhere without sewer hookup, I add a Barker wheeled tote (modified with foam filled tires in place of pneumatic), the short hose that came with it, and a special adapter to allow sewer hose connection to the tote (note the bayonet attachment on both ends). https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Degree-Sewer-Adapter-Portable/dp/B00OJHOL1O/ref=asc_df_B00OJHOL1O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312202698398&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9090870160881797098&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013575&hvtargid=pla-451786929497&psc=1

The threads on the sewer connection are often buggered so I use this to make a somewhat sealed connection https://www.campingworld.com/3-in-1-flexible-sewer-hose-adapter-112501.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign={Campaign}&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs5iF_unw-AIVKhbUAR1aBACrEAQYByABEgIWuvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I have found that many times the sewer connection is too low to facilitate attachment so I use this short extension often https://www.campingworld.com/camco-4-in-1-sewer-extension-104645.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign={Campaign}&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5uHe9ujw-AIV4RXUAR3-2gH7EAQYGyABEgKM-_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

@John E Daviesthank you Sir. That’s an interesting website.

I too have been trying to come up with a way to carry the 8 foot sticks since I put the bed cap on our current truck. I thought about sticking an 8 ft piece of electrical conduit inside the frame rail, but I don’t want that rattling around. I also thought about fixing some way to carry them under the camper, secured to the frame. But I just now remembered the sectional aluminum tent poles that we used when I was a Boy Scout. Those things were extremely durable. There is no telling how many sword fights we had with those pole sections. You could stick the end of a section down in mud then sling that section and it would send a deadly mud slug at an a adversary. We even used them as javelins and spears. I’m going to see if I can locate a source for sectional aluminum tent poles 8 feet long and order a couple to use the next time I need to dump uphill.

I didn’t want to drill any holes so I used an 1/8 inch chainsaw file to make a small notch on each side of the existing hole I enlarged the existing holes on the large bezel provided in the box and used the small bezel provided as a backing plate for 2 (#6 I think) flat head SS screws inserted into the 2 enlarged holes and through the notches and used 22-18 ga butt splices to attach the wires since the old monitor had 18 ga wires and the new one has 22 ga wires stuff you’ll need -(2) 18-22 ga butt splices -(1) 1/8 inch chainsaw file -(2) #6 x 5/8 inch SS flathead screws

Campsite sewer connections are placed for RVs with mid vehicle dump valves. Olivers have the dump valves in the bumper. I used this setup at a campground on the Keweenaw Peninsula so that I could dump up hill And at another campsite where the sewer connection was too high to allow proper flow

Valterra has a twist on waste valve that you can attach to the end of the pipe in the bumper to provide a “last line of defense”. I carry one in case I have a valve failure upstream, but you could use it all the time. https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-Twist-On-Waste-Valve/dp/B000BGHYJS/ref=asc_df_B000BGHYJS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312128189269&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18049546831347238612&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013575&hvtargid=pla-448831038926&psc=1

In the owner’s manual for a 2018 Elite, the schematic for the monitors shows a 1 amp fuse for the LPCO detector.

What about this https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-F02-3106BK-Black-Coupler-Handle/dp/B0006MRR2Q

If you’re referring to the LP/ CO detector under the dinette there is a 1 amp fuse located under the street side bunk. At least there is in mine. Pull that fuse and put it where you can find it later.

Don’t try it without one of these. Read my posts in this thread

When you unplugged from the 30 and plugged in to the 50 on the pedestal did you ever hear the transfer switch “clunk”?

Fulgham KY, a few days ago. But the pump don’t work cause the vandals took the handle

What is the brand and model of your propane/CO detector?

Post a picture of the LP/CO detector in your Oliver please.

No, it was a dark truck, Ford maybe, with matching bed cap, I think. Red and blue swooshes. No hull number on the stern. I wished they all had the hull number on them.

About noon. North bound on Highway 51.

Lowes has the blue clip @Imeldadid you figure out how to use your faucet as a sprayer?

@ImeldaYour profile shows you have a 2020 OEII. Are you sure that your faucet doesn’t already have a sprayer? Grab the end of the faucet head and pull it down. It is held in place with a magnet. The sprayer hose is inside the faucet neck.

We recently met a very nice couple with an Oliver at a campground. I was walking around their Oliver and we were talking about our trailers when I noticed water trickling down the curb side rear stabilizer. I asked if I could look under the curb side bunk and after looking for several minutes I could not find the source of the leak, but from where I was seeing the water running from underneath the insulation I suggested that he pull the drawers and take a look under the kitchen sink. We exchanged phone numbers and I left. With in just a few minutes of leaving their Oliver I received a text saying that he had done as I suggested and he had found his p-trap coupling loose and water from the drain dripping on top of the fender well under the kitchen sink. This leak made its way between the insulation and inside of the bottom hull to the opening where the rear stabilizer goes through the bottom hull.

@ImeldaPress these latches under the drawer and lift up Very likely this drain coupling has come apart. Or the blue clip that holds the sprayer hose to the faucet tube is missing and the hose has slipped off of the tube You may have to remove this plywood panel to make the repair. While you are in there make sure the refrigerator plug is plugged in well